Rynek Glowny

Jo’s Monday walk : Strolling in Kraków

I don’t know of a more beautiful city than Kraków for strolling in the sunshine. The last time I brought you here it was cool and drizzly, and I took refuge in the city walls. No such concern today. I hop off the tram on Św. Gertrudy, a nice central location, and let my fancy take control.

Crossing the Planty into Dominikanska, it’s almost automatic to gravitate towards the Rynek. The ethereal turrets of the Sukiennice, and the glittering jewels within, exert a mighty pull. But I spy a tiny Poczta- the very thing I’m needing to send my postcard winging its way to Viveka in Sweden. I have a wonderful collection growing as a result of that lovely lady’s travels.

Grodska is often thronged with tourists, but I saunter along this peaceful morning, without needing to sidestep into the road. No horse and carriages huffing and snorting down my neck. They are queued, waiting sedately in the square.

Rynek Główny is beautiful. At any hour of the day, coffee can be indulged at your restaurant of choice . Some customers gaze raptly out at the Ratusz. Others, more blase, focus on stirring in their grains of sugar. I’ve wandered here many times, but still make fresh discoveries.

I do have a tendency to poke my nose in where it shouldn’t be, often in all innocence. When I come upon the entrance to the Krzysztofory Museum, on the Rynek, I am delighted to observe that it is free to visitors on Tuesdays. I gently push on the glass door and step into the museum shop. Through an archway a receptionist sits, busy behind her desk. Uttering a polite ‘Dzień dobry’, I walk past, and am presented with a mighty flight of red-carpeted steps. Up I go, of course.

On the landing, I am confronted by knights in armour with a huge display of weaponry. Not much to my taste, but as I step through the doorway I find something that truly is. Aren’t these ceilings exquisite?

I am in a huge room, with chairs set out at one end, as if expecting a meeting. As I gaze at my surroundings, a voice says ‘Prosze, Pani?’ A lady is regarding me with some misgivings. I struggle to find an appropriate response in Polish. Sweeping briskly into the room, she states that the museum is ‘otwarty’- closed! Nothing to do but mumble an apology, and retreat.

Back in the sunshine, I continue my quest, delighting in the architecture. A bearded elderly gentleman, with twinkly eyes, offers to take a photo of me in his beautiful city. I decline in my faltering Polish, but with a smile on my face.

With museums still in mind, I continue along Św. Jana, hoping to find that the restoration of the Czartoryskich is complete, but my luck has run out. Instead I gaze at the paintings, suspended on the old city walls, along Pijarska. I’m charmed by one of them but, at 1200 zl, decide to leave it where it is. I take an inviting seat beneath the walls, outside Stare Mury, for coffee with a view.

The menu is full of temptation, but this is just a pause to enjoy the sunshine. I smile as a crocodile of ‘malutki’, small children, are shepherded by, in the diligent care of elderly nuns. Soon I am off again, heading down Szpitalna, past the highly ornate Słowackiego theatre. This brings me to Mały Rynek and Plac Mariacki, in the shadow of the magnificent church. I am just in time to catch the end of a folk performance.

Are you still with me? It’s such a glorious day that I have it in mind to head for the river, and maybe a glass of wine. Crossing the Rynek, I head south on Wiślna till I rejoin the leafy green Planty, which surrounds the oldest part of the city. An exhibition dedicated to Kraków Stolicą Bożego Miłosierdzia- the capital of Divine Mercy- accompanies my progress. The Pope is revered in this city.

I hadn’t intended to walk through the Castle grounds, but Wawel on a day like this is well nigh irresistible. I head down to the river, far below.

I think we’ll sit awhile. Don’t you? Afterwards I saunter homewards, luxuriating in a vanilla and chocolate icecream cone. I hope I haven’t worn you out too much? You can take your time and sit as long as you like. It’s a beautiful place.

Thanks everybody, for your continued support and company. I hope you enjoy my walks as much as I enjoy sharing them with you. If you’d like to join in at any time, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above. And now, let’s put the kettle on and get reading.

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Up in those Welsh Mountains to start us off, with Lady Lee Manila :

Snowdon

Where’s Jackie this week? Surrounded by art and design :

Monday Walk

Susan shows us more of the fascinating Ukraine :

Walking Kherson

Smidge is bagging Munros with some beautiful views :

Ben Lomond & the Ptarmigan Ridge

Laia’s been having fun with a brand new website. Go and take a look!

La Boca : exploring the hidden world beyond Caminito

Is Liesbet trying to confuse me? It doesn’t take much!

Walk through Luik/Liege/Luttich in Belgium

Or explore some beautiful coves, just along the coast from Marseilles :

Cote Bleue (Blue Coast)- Calanques Part 1

Anabel’s close to home again, on the lovely Northumberland coast :

Bamburgh Castle

You can never tire of seeing THAT Bay swaddled in clouds :

4 Hours in San Francisco

Have you got your mantilla and castanets ready? Debbie’s taking us on a whirlwind Spanish tour :

Alphabetical Tour of Spain

Some people can’t help being contrary, can they? Mick says I should know, Becky!

Our advice is to walk it the other way round

Rosemay reminds us just why I used to love the Italian Lakes. I still do!

A Walk to Villa del Balbianello

And finally, Susan finds some wonderful, and quirky, green space in the city :

The High Line : NYC’s Elevated Park

Wonderful, aren’t they? That’s it for another week. I have one more Polish walk to share, of a slightly different nature. Come along if you can. Meantime, have a great week and take good care of yourselves.

Jo’s Monday walk : Podziemia

Beneath Rynek Glowny, Krakow’s main square

You may remember that a couple of weeks ago, while window gazing in Krakow, I mentioned a museum beneath Rynek Główny. I was intrigued by the thought of what might lay beneath Europe’s largest market square, and thought that you might be too. Just a thought- this walk will not be suitable for claustrophobics. Welcome to Podziemia! (which means ‘under the ground’)

1000 years of the city’s history are represented here, in a project that took 5 years to excavate. A medieval cemetery was uncovered and you can take a fascinating walk back in time.

Just inside the entrance you look down at a miniature world

Just inside the entrance you look down at a world in miniature

But then you step back into the past

Between the solid walls of an underground world

To look at how life used to be

It’s a slightly eerie but amazing experience. At first I was a little disoriented, trying to decipher Polish signs. But as I looked closer I realised that there were interactive touch screens that would tell me the whole story (and in English, too!). I scrolled back, fascinated, then peered over the shoulders of a family intensely reading, eager for my turn at the next exhibit.

There were numerous videos to distract you, and a wonderful small children’s theatre. Probably my favourite! A chance to take the weight off your feet and listen spellbound as the crow narrates his story.

Video footage of the Jagiellonian University

Video footage of the Museum of Pharmacy

Dress a medieval lady- interactive play for the young at heart

The crow tells his tale (beware the scary dragon!)

The interactive screens are beside each exhibit

Some of which are very beautiful

Like these glass horses

After the walk-through there is a tunnel with a sequence of mini theatres and you can sit and absorb more of the history, with English subtitles. I found the whole experience quite enthralling. Maybe I would have enjoyed it more by joining a guided tour, but the museum was quite busy that day (a wet one), and I preferred to wander. If you’re ever in Kraków, I could recommend it.

How the square looked during the excavations

I had very little time to put together this walk, so I’m hoping it won’t seem too rushed. I didn’t want to disappoint and I have some lovely shares for you, but I may not be able to respond. I am unexpectedly in Nottingham when you read this (I have scheduled it, optimistically!) and will chat with you as soon as I possibly can. Much thanks for your patience.

The logo will direct you to my Jo’s Monday walk page and tell you how you can join in. Huge thanks to all my contributors.

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Remember ‘ride a cock horse to Banbury Cross’? Read about it with Debbie :

Of Cock Horses and Cock-up Bridges

Let’s sashay through the desert with Drake, shall we?

Walk spiced by palms

If pootling about in East Lothian is your kind of thing, you’ll love this, from Anabel :

East Linton to Hailes Castle

Still pootling, but looking for tadpoles? Geoff’s your man!

The Thames Path- Bablock Hythe to Tadpole Bridge

Beautiful architecture but the plants are the star of this show. Thanks, Pauline!

A Walk in Windy Wellington

Here in the UK we still have bluebells. Yay!!! Cheers, Elaine :

Looking for bluebells

Stunning landscape and lovely prose! Don’t miss Laura’s travels with a donkey :

In the shadow of the Guadarrama

It wouldn’t be Monday without Jude, would it? Come and drool over this beach!

Kynance Cove and beach

And Jaspa completes his study of a little known part of our world :

A stroll through Old Panama City, part 2- Casco Viejo

Say hello to Paul and find out what a ‘broch’ is. It’s always good to welcome a newcomer :

A walk through history

Happy Bank Holiday Monday in the UK and have a great week, the rest of you!

Window gazing in Kraków

Irresistible stained glass angels

I’m quite partial to a spot of window gazing and there can be few better places than Kraków to indulge. Beneath the cloisters of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) all kinds of temptation beckon. I really couldn’t remain outside the shop with the stained glass angels, but my timing was bad. The gentleman behind the counter politely informed me that he was closing for lunch and gave me his card. So my Polish money stayed in my pocket a while longer!

Click on the gallery below to shop with me

Doesn’t it look inviting?

A terrible shot, but you can see why I had to go in

All was peaceful next door at the lace shop

But this one had a bike waiting outside. A swift getaway?

So many lovelies, that gazing was a pleasure

Inside the Sukiennice stalls offer up every kind of indulgence, but no windows, so I contented myself with a stroll around the rather damp Rynek. There’s a swish cafe above the Sukiennice, with a terrace open to beguiling views of the Rynek Główny, Europe’s largest Market Square. I didn’t linger long as it started to drizzle.

Lots of windows but not many customers fro the coaches

Lots of windows, but not many customers for the coaches

A good place to escape the rain?

Or this colourful shop?

Next door to my cosy cafe

I actually spent a very interesting couple of hours in the museum beneath the Rynek, Podziemia, which kept me out of the rain very effectively, but more of that another time. One last shot caught my eye before I headed for home.

But this one, complete with view of the Rynek, may have been my favourite

A fashion window, with a lovely view of the Rynek

I’ve been promising to return to Dawn’s Windows challenge for the longest time. This month’s windows are so ‘pretty in pink’. I do hope that you can join me there.

Jo’s Monday walk : Barbakan and the City Walls

It’s like something from a fairy tale, isn’t it?

My head is still full of Poland and the Algarve seems like a distant dream, so for today’s walk I’m taking you strolling around the Planty and the Barbakan in Kraków.

I’m privileged to have visited this beautiful city a number of times, but this was the first time I’d ventured inside the Barbakan. It was a grey day, with wisps of damp clinging to the trees, but Kraków is a hard city to despoil. The soft shades of the lilac soothed the lushness of the green. I had been dropped off in close proximity to Rynek Główny, the huge market square which lies at the heart of the old town, Stare Miasto. Surrounding it, the Planty. Trees, green lawns and gardens wrap gently around the bustling centre. As I wandered, through the trees I spied a fountain. An oasis of calm, till it’s spray leapt gaily into the air.

The fountain at play

It’s lilac time

So soft and pretty

On a drier day you could sit and watch

A couple of sculptures caught my eye. Tributes to Jan Matejko , a Polish painter of historical scenes, and Józef Bohdan Zaleski, a poet and songwriter. The Planty replaced the city’s medieval walls, which were largely demolished after 1807, leaving the city’s main gate, Brama Florianska, the Barbakan and a couple of towers with connecting walls. If you’re interested, this walk gives details of what can be found around the Planty.

Jan Matejko

Tribute to Zaleski

Brama Florianska, through the lilac

The original fortifications must have been an impressive sight. Three kilometres of wall, 10 metres high and almost 3 thick, were interspersed with 47 towers and bastions. Today Barbakan, just outside Florianska Gate, is a substantial remnant. Dating from 1498, its design is Arab rather than typical of European defensive architecture of the period. Stepping inside is a strange experience. I was prepared to defend the city!

Click on an image to take the tour

The Barbakan exterior

Let’s step inside

Looking up

A loophole for arrows

There are information boards detailing the original structures

The towers were 50 metres apart- the distance of an effective bowshot

Looking out at Brama Florianska

Inside the structure

Looking in, towards the central courtyard

Or out, at Jan Matejko

And up at the 7 towers

Prepared for armed combat

Originally the fort, begun in the 13th century, was linked to the city walls by a covered passage, surrounded by a moat. 130 loopholes in the walls meant that even if the enemy forced their way in, they would then be trapped and shot at from all sides. The entrance to the walls is through Baszta Pasamoników (Haberdashers’ Tower), at the eastern end of Ul. Pijarska, on Ul. Szpitalna. One ticket (currently 8 złoty, or 6 if, like me, you are emerytura, buys you admission to both Barbakan and the walls). I have often looked up at the walkway and it was quite exciting to be inside, looking out. A steady drizzle forced a sea of umbrellas, while I stayed smug and dry.

The Haberdasher’s Tower

Water, and the means of drawing it, was extremely important to the city

Looking out at a damp city

And along the walkway

Again, there are plenty of information boards

In both Polish and English language

I like the feeling of being above it all

For a few seconds it was necessary to step out into the light rain, to pass around Brama Florianska, but when I did so a delightful surprise awaited. St. Florian’s gate is 33.50 metres tall and built of natural stone, capped by a metal ‘helmet’.

Out into the damp

Looking down Ul. Florianska

Or into this beautiful tiny chapel

The details exquisite

In glorious colour

While this stained glass beauty looks on

The Mariacki Church, in the Rynek, beckons from beyond Ul. Florianska

The mighty Florianska Gate, with its ‘secret’ chapel

From street level the chapel, within Brama Florianska, is barely visible. For me it was a grand finale, but the main entrance to the medieval city is just the beginning of the Royal Way. This leads down Florianska into Rynek Główny, and continues along Grodzka to the magnificent castle and cathedral on Wawel Hill.

Florianska and the surrounding area is lined with restaurants and cafes so you will not have far to wander to rest those weary feet. If you want something with a little character, Cafe Zakatek, featured in my 6WS, is through a narrow passage off Grodzka, just beyond the Rynek.

And there we have it- another Jo’s Monday walk. If you’d like to join me, details can be found by clicking on my logo. The numerous links in the post will give you more background and history.

In my absence many of you posted walks, and I already have a couple to share next week. Thank you all for your enthusiastic support. Please find the time to read these if you can. You won’t be disappointed. All you need is a big pot of kawa (or herbata!)

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Beginning with a whoosh! Thank you, Drake, for gladdening my heart :

Liquid forces

A fascinating boardwalk from Meg (who’s currently in Poland) :

Marrja boardwalk

Sounds rather wistful- like one of those boxes you rummage through :

Azalea Mall Remnants

Bluebonnets from Amy! Catch ’em quick- they’re soon gone :

Monday walk: Texas Hill Country

A Vanishing Ice exhibition has to be interesting, don’t you think?

Vanishing

A seaside bench, or a romp with Oscar? You’ll enjoy either- it’s Sherri!

A Walk with My Friend Oscar

A riverside walk? Count me in!

The Thames Path- Little Wittenham to Oxford

Just a little more exotic? Join Becky in the Algarve :

In search of Chameleons

Tobias pays close attention to detail in this follow up :

Kurhaus II

I’ve always felt ambivalent about Rome, but Indah’s fabulous post could persuade me :

Rome by Sunset and Night walks

Did you ever hear the sound of a wild howler monkey? No- nor me! Thanks, Jaspa, for joining us.

Seeking Monkeys in an Ecuadorian rain forest

A new blog, to me, and a big welcome for a terrific post- please do read :

New Frontiers and a Chocolate-covered Fish

Tish has been spying on canoodling pooties. Go on- you know you want to!

Seeking Spring- and a walk on Wenlock’s Wild Side

And what a fabulous finale, and welcome home! If you haven’t seen it, don’t miss this treat from Pauline :

The Giant’s House in Akaroa

Thanks everybody! I hope you have a great week of walking in the Spring sunshine (or showers). See you soon.

Six word Saturday

A friendly lion- any guesses where?

It had to be, didn’t it?

I did a little window shopping

It's a long way from Christmas, but aren't these beasutiful?

It’s a long way from Christmas, but aren’t these beautiful?

Naturally, I walked. I’ll take you inside the Barbikan later ….

And show you lots of maps

A cosy cafe to escape the rain

And even underneath the Rynek, the Market Square, to Podziemia!

Out in the suburbs it was pretty, too

Spring (Wiosna) had arrived beautifully (hover over the images below for the Polish names)

With heaps of blossom

Apple blossom (Migdalowa)

And my favourite, Magnolia (Magdanolia)

I might just have saved the best till last… my cousin Jadwiga (Jadzia) with her grandaughter, and our cousin Marta- soon to be a grandma too.

Meet Nadia! A joyful addition to our Polish family

There are stories to tell, and my head is still half full of Polish, but for now, I’m home again. I brought with me a wedding invitation for September, so I think that I’ll be back.

Time to settle into a routine, at least for a little while. Hope you enjoyed the preview of what’s to come, and that you have a happy weekend. It’s grey and damp outside, but I don’t even mind. I’ve put some more washing in, and visited Cate at Show My Face with my six words. Zumba soon, and a little later there’ll be Rafa to look forward to.

See you on Monday? Who knows where we’ll be walking to…. Till then, have fun!

K is for Kraków

I just know I’m going to struggle with this post. I have so much affection and admiration for Kraków, and so many happy memories that keeping to a readable length may well prove impossible.

Woodcut of Krakow from the Nuremburg Chronicles,1493- from Wikipedia

Polish cities have had to be masters of the art of survival. Nowhere is this better illlustrated than in Kraków, Poland’s ancient capital and seat of its kings for more than 500 years. I was in love with this city from the first time I walked, arm in arm with my Aunt Anna, into Spring sunshine-filled Rynek Główny, the magnificent market square at the heart of Stare Miasto, the old town.

Rynek Glowny- from Wikipedia

I did not know then of the acid rain inflicted on the city by the post war communist regime. The construction of Nowa Huta, the largest steelworks in Europe, on the city’s outskirts was intended to humble a proud, cultured city by grafting on a new working class. If anything, it worked to strengthen anti-communist feeling, so that when opportunity presented itself, the steelworkers were quick to join Solidarity and agitate to overthrow their oppressors.

Kraków’s elegant buildings were little damaged by World War 2, since Hitler chose the city as his base of operations in Poland. Yet a mighty struggle was needed to reverse the damage to the city and its inhabitants by the toxic chemicals from Nowa Huta.

None of this is apparent in today’s Kraków. As I gazed in awe at the opulence and vast space of Rynek Główny, crowned by the Cloth Hall, Sukiennice, I was aware only of the gentle pressure of Anna’s arm. I’m trying to discount the presence of the cameras that followed us- Dad’s story had attracted media attention back home. https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2011/10/24/exploring-the-polish-connection/ Flower stalls, candles and corn plaits filled the square with vibrant colour. It was almost Easter and traditional circular bread rings were on sale. My cousin Adam is a baker and it proved essential to sample these.

That day we didn’t linger, but I’ve returned many times since to Europe’s largest medieval market square. I find it magical, with the gentle clop of horses’ hooves as the costumed drivers steer their carriages through strolling tourists. Always, as the hour chimes, a cluster of people gaze skywards at the tallest tower of the Mariacki Church, St. Mary’s. Legend has it that during a Tartar raid on the city in 1241, the watchman tried to sound the alarm from this tower. He was cut short from his trumpeting by an arrow through the throat. An hourly tribute to this moment ends mid phrase, then the trumpeter waves cheerily to the crowd, and lives to repeat his performance.

An altogether different performance takes place inside the Mariacki Church at noon each day. (Sundays and saints’ days excluded) I found the cobalt blue ceiling with its panorama of stars and local artist Jan Matejko’s painted friezes truly beautiful, but it’s the opening of the high altar that draws the crowds. Carved by Nuremberg craftsman Veit Stoss, from 1477 to 1489, it’s one of the finest examples of Gothic art in Europe. The outer of the gilded limewood polyptych illustrates the life of the Holy Family. With great pomp and ceremony the outer panels are drawn back to reveal six superbly colourful scenes from Christ’s life, while “sleeping” Mary is watched over by the Apostles.

Veit Stoss altar- from Wikipedia

You need to purchase a ticket to witness the opening. A small ticket office in the adjacent square Pl. Mariacki opens shortly before each unveiling.

Back in Rynek Główny, the contrast with tiny St Adalberts, the oldest building in the square and the first church to be founded in Kraków, couldn’t be greater. It’s serenely peaceful inside, and in the basement the original 10^th century foundations are still visible.

St Adalbert's Church

The flamboyance of medieval Sukiennice constantly draws the eye. It has to be the prettiest indoor market I have ever seen. Inside the stalls are laden with amber and sparkly things, craftwork and woollens. Heraldic shields sit high on the whitewashed walls, a reminder that the richest of cloth merchants once worked here. In the cafes, under the arcades, writers and artists once met. Now tourists are catered for, with inflated prices. I prefer to sit at the edge of the square, looking in on an ever changing scene.

A bird’s eye view of the square can be obtained from the Ratusz, the lofty tower all that remains of a 14^th century Town Hall. It now houses a Tourist Information office, with useful maps detailing the many restaurants and places of interest.

Ratusz and Sukiennice

Twice I have eaten cake at no 15, Hotel Wierzrynek, Kraków’s oldest and most famous restaurant. Charles de Gaulle, Steven Spielberg, Yehudi Menuhin- and me! The grandest restaurant I’ve been in, other than London’s Ritz. www.wierzrynek.pl

Much simpler, but quite delicious, I found Chimera, at 3 Sw. Anny, just off the Rynek. A pretty enclosed courtyard, offers buffet style with lots of choice, or you can eat in the classier basement restaurant if you can afford more than student prices. www.chimera.com.pl

Just around the corner lies Collegium Maius, part of the Jagellonian University, where Copernicus allegedly studied in the 16^th century. It surrounds an imposing courtyard. Guided tours can be booked from a ticket office as lovely as any I have ever seen.

Collegium Maius

Florianska is one of my favourite streets. Leading north from the Rynek, the architecture is powerful, old and new mingling with surprising ease. High fashion hides behind grand old facades and at Jama Michalika, no 45, afternoon folklore shows take place in a cavernous interior. Florianska Gate, at the end of the street, marks the edge of Stare Miasto. Artists’ impressions hang on the old defensive walls of the city. Once there were 3 kilometres of wall, 10 metres high and almost 3 thick, with 47 bastions. Only Barbakan remains, a lonely giant. The old town is surrounded by the green and leafy Planty, which follows the course of the old ramparts.

Florianska Gate

Heading south from the Rynek, Grodzka follows the traditional route of the Polish monarchs to the glory that is Wawel Hill. Part of the old trade route to Hungary, it passes by the Dominican and Franciscan churches, and the mighty Basilica of SS. Peter and Paul. Beckoning in the distance, the spires of Wawel Castle and Cathedral.

Wawel Cathedral

Wawel is the spiritual and patriotic heart of Poland. Even after the capital was moved to Warsaw, Polish monarchs continued to be buried in Wawel Cathedral, along with many of the nation’s heroes and writers. You will find as many Poles as foreigners looking around this awesome sight, justifiably proud of their heritage. Pope John Paul 2^nd, who gave his first mass as a priest there and became a much loved Archbishop of Kraków, described the cathedral as “the sanctuary of the nation”. The first cathedral was built here around 1020, and fragments of the original can still be seen. I never saw so many beautiful shrines in one space. The largely Gothic Cathedral is as lovely outside as within. It’s a bit of a scramble up Sigismund Tower to view the mighty bell “Zygmunt” and its four medieval companions, but the views are fine.

The magical view from Balon Widokowy at sunset

Wawel Castle spins a fairy tale if ever there was one. One of my best memories is of viewing it from the sky in “Balon Widokowy”- a tethered hot air balloon on the banks of the River Wisła (Vistula). The Castle was the royal residence until 1609. The internal courtyard is immense. Surrounded by 3 tiered arcades, it has the feel of an Italian palazzo. The Royal Chambers are furnished in Renaissance style and contain 136 well-travelled Flemish tapestries from the 16^th century. At the outbreak of World War 2 many of the castle treasures were spirited abroad. Just as well because occupation by Governor Hans Frank and his Nazi henchmen followed. The tapestries were only partially recovered, many of them returning from Canada in 1968.

The castle courtyard. Below, frescoe detail

Tapestries on display in the Royal Chambers

Guest bedroom with the oldest of the tapestries and 18th century ceramic heater

Admission to the Royal Chambers is free on Sundays. Separate tickets are needed for Castle and Cathedral and I could fully recommend the Castle tour. Details on www.wawel.krakow.pl

Oh dear! I’ve only just scratched the surface and I haven’t even mentioned Kazimierz, the charismatic Jewish Quarter. Or the szopki, nativity scenes very special to Kraków. Or Wieliczka– salt mines such as you’ve never seen, with salt crystal chandeliers. Or the views from Kosciuszko Mound (don’t go on a hazy day, as I did!) Or, more seriously, Auschwitz.

Just as well I can put these into other A-Z posts! Meantime, for all the things I haven’t told you www.krakow.pl is an excellent site, with English version available. Transport, what to see, events- it’s all there.

Kraków is an emotionally charged city for me and I hate it when I see it dismissed as “a venue for stag nights and hen parties”. Having survived so much, I’m sure it can overcome this image. Do go and see for yourself.

I’ll close with some Easter symbols: eggs, the candles bought for me in the Rynek by Aunt Anna and an Easter blessing.

Few things stranger than life, and just after posting this I got a “shout” from Mark of Travels of a Non Traveller, who was in Krakow. He has some great tips on free walking tours so just follow his link.

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A friendly lion- any guesses where?

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