Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Ilha da Culatra

Shall we start with a ferry ride?

This week’s walk is on the island of Culatra, so you’ll have the added bonus of a ferry ride- always irresistible to me. But for those of you who are poor sailors, let me assure you of gentle, calm waters. I referred briefly to Culatra in my I is for Ilhas (islands) post and I thought it might be time to take a closer look. I think you might like it.

Departure points for the ilha are from the city of Faro, the Algarve’s capital, or from the nearby fishing town, Olhão. It’s a short 30 minute sailing from the latter. The ferries depart at 9.00, 11.00, 15.00 and 17.00, so what are we waiting for? Don’t forget your sunscreen, and flip-flops will be just fine for this trip.

Is this water flat enough for you?

There's always someone who likes to make waves!

There’s always someone who likes a little fun!

Here we are, at the first port of call already!

The ferry docks first at the eastern end of the island, with a busy little marina, the church and a couple of restaurants. If you like you can get off here and walk along to Farol, but I like to stay on till the second stop, 10 minutes later. As the ferry chugs alongside the island, the lighthouse for which the settlement is named looms larger. Often your flight path into the Algarve will carry you over the islands and you have an aerial view of Farol.

Almost there…

Closer!

And we’re disembarking!

Ok, so you’ve indulged me the watery stuff. Thank you! Now it’s time to stroll a little. You’ve probably guessed what we’ll be going to see, haven’t you?

It’s visible wherever you look

Not quite hiding behind the beach houses

Even on the tiles!

Unless you deliberately look the other way

There are plenty of beguiling sights

Palms and pretty houses

And pathways to explore

But eventually you come face to face!

The lighthouse is situated on a rocky headland, above a small beach, crowded with locals on a weekend. Continue past that and you have seemingly endless sand. Off with those flip-flops and away you paddle!

A good situation?

Are you paddling?

I think that’s a wreck out at sea?

After a while you will see a sign board pointing inland and a boardwalk. This is your cue to put the flip-flops back on and follow it, over some low dunes. You will see the first port where the ferry docked ahead in the distance. Arguably the best bit of the walk starts now. As you approach the village the path becomes lined with an array of beach houses and their gardens. All shapes and colours are represented- some tasteful, others… well, let’s say interesting.

The boardwalk

Across the dunes

It’s not as far as it looks

Till you come to the Social Centre

And the first of the beach houses

Closely followed by…

Many more

With their attendant bougainvillea

Did I mention tasteful? Quirky, maybe

Lots of pink

And assorted pots

Now you’re back at the marina, with its host of little fishing vessels. There are several small bars and restaurants where you can blend in with the locals while you await your return ferry. The ticket office only opens 10 minutes before the boat is due, but you might well have bought a return- ide e volta. The ferry will stop again at Farol so you can do this walk in either direction, or both ways if you’re keen!

A motley medley of containers

And numerous working vessels

Some very nifty ones

And the odd bike

It’s a busy spot

The church is at this end of the island, too

Watched over by Our Lady of Fatima

Then it’s farewell to Culatra

And hello Olhao!

I hope you didn’t mind the boat ride too much? One of my favourite things about the Algarve is the number of ferry rides I can take. My husband rather meanly keeps count and sometimes I’m rationed! There were 8 boat rides this visit. (that’s there and back, of course)

Many thanks for your time and your company. Will you join me next week on a Monday walk? The details are on my walks page or just click on the logo below.

Now for the good stuff! Time to put the kettle on and read my ‘shares’.

I didn’t have Alesund on my ‘list’ till I saw this post. I do now! Thank you, Cardinal :

The City Center of Alesund

Show me a walk by a river? I’m hooked! Thanks, Drake :

Other side of the river

Pauline keeps revealing interesting facets of Canberra :

Inner city chic : I’m loving Canberra

If you’re a lover of tranquility you can’t fail to love Amy’s garden :

Portland Japanese Garden

You’ll love this walk with Jude too. It’s on level ground for one thing! :

Wild Rye

One last nostalgic stroll with Sylvia… But, don’t worry- she’ll be back to visit family. Here’s to new beginnings, Ad! :

One last nostalgic walk before we leave this paradise

And now, meet Ana. I’m sure she’s known to many of you and I’m so happy she has joined us this week :

A guided history walk of Guildford

And last but never, ever least, Yvette is back! Have you been to West Point, Virginia? You’ll enjoy this visit. :

West Point, VA

Thanks again to all my contributors. Have a happy week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Captain Cook’s Monument

Captain James Cook on the village green at Great Ayton

I still have Paris stories to tell and photos to share, but life moves on, doesn’t it? Late Summer is the most beautiful time of year on the North York Moors and I’ve been there several times in the past few weeks. I wish I’d had blue skies like the one above for this week’s walk, but we’ll have to settle for ‘head in the clouds’.

‘Where do you want to go?’ asked the long suffering other half, last Monday. ‘Somewhere with heather. Lots of heather!’ I replied. And where do you find the most heather? On the very tops of the Moors, of course. So, strong legs needed this week, but I’m in the Algarve next week so you can all have a lovely rest. Are you ready? Come on, then!

This is our start point

I’m starting out from the free car park at Gribdale Gate, just beyond the village of Little Ayton. You have several choices from this point but they’re all in an upwards direction.

This is ours!

That’s the target- the little spike above the tree line!

Always on the Moors you are aware of nature

While beneath our feet the bracken fades

You’re following a woodland trail and steadily you will gain height

There are occasional diversions on the edges of the path

With occasional diversions on the edges of the path

Your first reward- Roseberry Topping on the horizon

Roseberry Topping is an iconic landmark in these parts. The combination of geological fault and a mining collapse in 1912 created its distinctive shape. The link will take you to the National Trust website with lots of spectacular views. Joe Cornish is one of my favourite photographers.

Looking back you can see the moorland trail you have followed

A memorial beside the path

Ahead, the Monument

Captain Cook’s Monument is a 16 metre high obelisk, located on Easby Moor and visible for miles around. It was constructed of local sandstone and has stood on this spot since 1827. It bears an inscription celebrating Captain James Cook, who was born locally at Marton- “a man of nautical knowledge inferior to none”.

The heather stretches for miles

And miles!

It is the most glorious sight at this time of year, and well worth the climb, which can be taken slowly, with frequent pauses to look back. Many families with quite young children were making the pilgrimage, so how hard can it be? I wasn’t so sure about this next activity though.

Getting the heart rate going is one thing, but…..

He made it- thank goodness!

The Monument and Roseberry Topping in the same frame

You can continue on across the Moors and down into Kildale in the next valley. The total distance is only 2 and a half miles, but you would then have to make the return journey. I was content to simply descend the hill, much more rapidly than my ascent!

Just a little more heather!

And a last look at the Monument

Did I mention the heather?

There is a railway station at Little Ayton, on the Esk Valley Line, but I’m assuming you arrived by car. It’s all downhill back to the main village of Great Ayton, where James Cook spent many of his boyhood years. It’s a very attractive village, with the river running through it, and a good pub, the ‘Royal Oak’, on the village green.

You could visit Captain Cook’s Schoolroom Museum if you have the time. I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t managed it yet. I’d better make that a project for the winter. I apologise for the sullen skies but the heather is only at it’s purple best for a few weeks. As we drove home the sky began to clear, of course, and I leapt nimbly out of the car to frolic with the sheep.

He’s giving me a very suspicious look!

As I mentioned at the start of this walk, I’m going to the Algarve today and won’t be around to post a walk next Monday. I’ll be back the following one, 15th September, so if you have any walks you’d like to share, feel free to leave them in the Comments as usual. I’ll feature them the following week. Any doubts, click on my logo above. It explains how I run Jo’s Monday walks. Till then, happy walking! I’m off to put the kettle on and visit all these lovely people.

My first walk this week is from a lady you might not know? Say ‘hello’ to Jill, at Jill’s Scene :

Breckenridge, Minnesota

Drake takes us to lovely Ribe in Denmark, and climbs a tower, too! Energetic, like me :

Step back time

Amy has the BEST photo of a cross mother swan in this post :

Zilker Park, Austin

I’ve always enjoyed ’tilting at windmills’. Jude has the most beautiful one I’ve seen in a while :

Tilting at Windmills

Some fabulous footage of the Azores from Cardinal Guzman, also joining us for the first time :

Horta- Azorean Islands

Take care and ‘bye for now!

Jo’s Monday walk : the village of Giverny

Isn’t this perfection?

I took so many lovely images on my visit to the Monet garden in Giverny. It was quite hard to leave. But I had little idea of the other treats that lay in store for me in the village. I thought that this Monday you might like to join me in a gentle stroll in the Normandy sunshine? You won’t even need hiking boots! Sound promising?

Shuttered windows peep from behind a Russian Vine covered hedge

Claude Monet lived in the village of Giverny from 1883 to 1926 and there is no doubt that it has prospered hugely as a result of this. Still it remains a very charming place and it’s not difficult to see what drew Monet and his artist friends here. There were only 300 people living in the village when Monet first spotted it from the window of a passing train and decided he wanted to live there. Today Rue Claude Monet is the principal street of the village.

A legend among the ivy

Normally I save food for the end of my walks but you may remember that I’d already travelled from Paris and spent a couple of hours at the Monet garden. The Musee des Impressionismes has a very pleasant restaurant and gardens and is just a few steps further along Rue Claude Monet. We had a combined ticket with Monet’s garden, saving a few euros, but you didn’t need to enter the museum to eat in their restaurant, or to see the garden.

I was very happy with my Caesar Salad and vin blanc

While somebody decided he’d earned a big beer

The venue was rather nice

And we even found time to admire the garden

Of course, we had to check out the paintings too, and then it was time to venture into the village. We wandered along, admiring the shuttered windows. They looked so French!

White against soft grey stone

Gentle green on pink, with neatly tied nets

Smart and efficient looking

Smothered in green

Neat and rather stylish

Or carried away on a tide of flowers

This artist’s gallery beckoned me inside

I stopped a little further along Rue de Claude Monet to peer inside a gallery. “Come in, come in” beamed the proprietor (in French, of course), patting his head to indicate that I should keep mine low. I would have loved to start snapping the sea of canvases in the tiny space, but it didn’t seem polite. I had the impression that we could have become lifelong friends and that I’d take breakfast in the cafe next door. Fortunately I was rescued by another customer descending the steps, and the ‘patting of head routine’. A true show of French gallantry.

‘Le Coin des Artistes’ at no. 65 was first a grocery store, then a cafe-bar in Monet’s time, and is now a smart looking bed and breakfast. At no. 81, Hotel Baudy has been recently restored and was also a popular meeting place for artists . A few steps further, Eglise Sainte Radegonde dates from the Middle Ages and is the burial place of Monet and many of his family.

Hotel Baudy

A peep inside

Village life!

The view across the fields to the river

Sainte Radegonde church

Monet’s grave

The village is long and slim and at the end you can turn down to Chemin du Roy to complete a circuit back to your beginnings. I was much taken with the narrow interconnecting lanes, which reminded me a little of the Wynds in Yorkshire. Following my nose led to Rue du Milieu (Middle St.) looking over garden walls as I go. I do like to be nosy!

The prettiest of my ‘Wynds’

A quiet courtyard garden

Over a garden fence

A map of the village

Giverny lies on La Route Normandie Vexin, midway between Rouen and Paris, in the midst of chateau territory. With the Seine on its doorstep, boat trips are also an option. I took great delight in this village, which offered me far more than I had expected. I hope you found it a lovely place to ramble, too. Indulge me with a last few shots from the Monet garden?

What can you say?

And borders full of delight

Joyfully extravagant

And wildly flamboyant

I enjoyed my time in France so much! There may still be a post or two to come but I think that next week’s Monday walk will be back in the UK. I try to keep them seasonal and the Yorkshire Moors are in full bloom at the moment. I do hope that you’ll join me but I will have limited time to respond to you as I’ll be back in the Algarve by Monday evening.

There won’t be a Monday walk on 8th September, but I’ll remind you about that next week. Meanwhile, are you ready for a good read?

I think most of you will find Drake’s style much more relaxing than mine :

Few steps, large atmosphere

While Paula shows us exquisite beauty in Istria :

Macabre Fresco

I took the hint this week- no steps to climb! Here’s a lovely flat walk from Jude :

A walk along the Dee

Does fun in the sun in Texas appeal? It will if you join Amy! :

Lake, river and trails in Austin

Or come and have a hug, and a little history, with Sue’s Mum :

Canada’s Battle of Batoche-Louis Riel’s last stand

Finally a walk recommended to me by my dear friend Meg. Have you been to Ethiopia? :

Walkabout to the Blue Nile Falls

That’s it till next week. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Discovering Montmartre

Where else but the Moulin Rouge?

Whenever I visit a new city I like to take a guided walk with a local. You might remember that in Barcelona I accompanied Aleksandra on an eye-opening tour of the old side. Paris was no exception.

A couple of my blogging friends are Paris experts and Lucy at On the Luce has a great post on which I spotted Discover Walks. I was tempted by several of the choices, and so it was that, last Monday, I met Olivier. A personable and very charming 20 year old, I knew at the outset that I was going to enjoy my walk. And it was free, apart from a tip!

We met outside Blanche Metro station, at Place Pigalle, looking directly at that Paris icon, the Moulin Rouge. There was quite a big group of us. Why don’t you tag along? I promise not to give away the best stories. You’ll have to join Olivier for those. I should warn you that this area is very steep, but we’ll take it slowly and pause to admire the views.

With all of Paris at our feet!

We started off up Rue Lepic- a street full of shops and locals. It was tempting to linger over some of the pastries on display, but I hoped there would be time for them later. For now, I wanted to absorb all that Montmartre has to offer. Originally a village, outside of the city walls, the name Montmartre derives from martyrs who once were tortured and died on this hill. Despite being incorporated into the city of Paris in 1860, Montmartre retains a strong identity and almost a village feeling. It’s a community to which you would love to belong.

Olivier carried with him a satchel full of goodies and it wasn’t long before he was delving in. Outside Bateau-Lavoir, on tiny Place Emile-Goudeau, he produced a copy of a painting. In this former piano factory, in 1907, Picasso painted his Cubist ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’; a portrayal of 5 naked prostitutes, outrageous for its time. No longer is there evidence of the squalid conditions he and his compatriots lived in, as the building has since burned down. A replica currently marks the spot.

The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)

In Rue d’Orchampt, the tragic story of beautiful Dalida

And the ill-fated building where she met her end

A sample of modern artwork in the nearby passage

Artists and their haunts abound in Montmartre. Dalida was unlucky in love. After the suicides of three of her lovers she finally committed suicide herself. A beautiful home isn’t everything, is it?

Around the corner another copy of a painting emerged from Olivier’s satchel. Enthralled I looked at the windmills Van Gogh had painted, in their surrounding fields. His countryside setting was nothing like that before me. Once Montmartre had more than 30 windmills, used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes. Now just two remain. At the junction of rues Lepic and Tholoze, Moulin de la Galette is one of them. A Michelin starred restaurant, it’s definitely a sign of the times.

Later, in the Musee d’Orsay, I was to stare wide-eyed at Renoir’s immortalisation of the windmill in ‘Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette’, so beautiful in closeup. I can only manage a photograph.

A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views

Our next introduction was to a gentleman by the name of Marcel Aymé. Have you heard of ‘The Man who walked through walls’? No, neither had I, but there he was, protruding from the wall! I gather that he haunts Rue Norvins by night- a good reason not to loiter.

Olivier with Dutilleul, the ‘hero’ of the book

A look at the Montmartre vineyard was to follow, but with strict instructions not to buy the product. Pollution levels in Paris are apparently not conducive to producing fine wine.

The Montmartre vineyard- it’s green enough, isn’t it?

And down the hill, ‘Au Lapin Agile’- the nimble rabbit- a cabaret spot

It’s a green and leafy space where you can hear the birds sing. It’s not until you start to approach the monumental church that things begin to get busy. I could happily wander these quiet back streets but inevitably you are drawn to Place du Tertre, where all of life spills over.

Approaching Sacre Coeur from the rear

A quiet drink on the way?

Or a visit to the Musee de Montmartre?

Our group progress inexorably upwards

Not for us the crush of the main square. We pass through peaceful gardens and emerge behind Sacre Coeur, where Olivier shares a final few tips and bids us ‘adieu’. A job well done! Merci!

Sacre Coeur from the gardens at the rear

You know where I’m going next, don’t you? But first let’s have a quick peek at Place du Tertre.

Such a pretty square

And full of beautiful art work

Restaurants

Artists

And pretty pictures

Too many people for me! I’m heading right for the top. I figure with all that practise up four flights of stairs to our apartment, 300 steps will be a piece of cake?

The church first, but I wasn't allowed to take photos

The church doorway, but I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside

Up close and personal with a gargoyle first

Maybe, don’t look down!

Out is good!

There’s that Eiffel Tower again!

A bit of a rest stop

With beautiful views!

Still a long way down

I’ll focus on a close up

I never did make it to La Defense!

But I was on good terms with the gargoyles!

Are you worn out now? You didn’t have to climb all those steps with me! My legs are a bit jelly, too. I hope you enjoyed my Paris walk. Back down is simple. Just meander! Many thanks to Olivier for his delightful assistance.

I turned my back for 5 minutes this week and you walkers took off at a pace! Please make some time to read these. There are some superb walks here. Put your feet up and enjoy! (and then start walking) Click on my Monday walks logo to find out more.

Drake? Well, he was at a quarry :

Secluded works of art

And Jude was in her beloved Cornwall :

Capturing Cornwall

Madhu made me sad with her wistful haveli photos :

Lucknow- a walk in the Chowk

And Pauline introduced me to a pretty section of Canberra :

Canberra Lakeside walk

While Amy was out chasing beautiful butterflies :

Trail walking

The definitive London walk- you won’t want to miss it! :

A glorious Summer’s day in London

And by way of complete contrast, Sue has us dangling in wide open spaces :

Grassi Lakes- the Canmore jewels

Not quite so reckless but another lover of the great outdoors, join Suzan on a bear adventure :

Close encounters of the Bear kind

Right back to London, Laura shows us a side that tourists seldom see :

Walkabout 3- the Branch Line

I thought I was eating choux pastry with Jude. It must have been those steps!

New Abbey Buildings

And finally my lovely Viveka in Vienna. You will never have taken a finer tour! :

Felt like a local

Happy walking all! See you next week.

Jo’s Monday walk : to Infinity and beyond!

Just a hint of blue sky through the Infinity Bridge

One of the hardest things about my Monday walks is deciding where to take you next. I have easy access to both coast and countryside where I live in the north east of England. Add in a healthy dose of curiosity and restlessness and the sky’s the limit!

Last week’s visit to the Glass Centre is a hard act to follow, but I’m going to take you a little way south of me today, to the River Tees. The lovely curves of the Infinity Bridge have added grace and beauty to another quite industrial part of my world. This weekend the Stockton Riverside Festival was taking place. I hope a deluge or two didn’t dampen the enthusiasm for the music.

Our start point will be the parking lot behind the White Water Centre. We’ve walked around the Tees Barrage before but this time we’ll be heading towards Stockton-on-Tees.

The White Water Centre, and cafe

There are usually canoes taking to the water. Tees Barrage is in the distance

Walk towards the Infinity Bridge

And underneath! Don’t worry- we’ll come back to it.

It’s a popular cycle track too, so you’ll need to be alert. Some cyclists sound their bell in warning, but more often they just loom up. You don’t want to drop your camera!

Stockton is an Anglo-Saxon name, the ending ‘ton’ meaning farm or homestead. There is little in the way of agriculture to be seen on this stretch of the River Tees. The town used to have a thriving outdoor market where fresh produce was readily and cheaply available. The life and character that this brought has sadly vanished.

Stockton’s main claim to fame is tied to the advent of steam travel in 1822. The first rail of George Stephenson’s Stockton and Darlington Railway was laid locally, on Bridge Rd. Stephenson drove Locomotion no.1 himself on its first journey, on 27th September 1825. In recent years the riverside has been developed to make a focal point for the town.

A tribute to George Stephenson’s Locomotion no.1

The riverside and Teesside Millenium Bridge

The riverside and Teesquay Millenium Footbridge

Have you spotted something beyond the bridge? Something with tall masts? My main reason for walking this way, and one of my favourite things. Wait just a moment.

First we need to pass beneath the bridge

And here we have it!

Isn’t she a beauty?

Here’s a small clue

I love these tall masted beauties!

James Cook was a local lad and is widely feted in this part of the world. HM Bark Endeavour took him on the first of three voyages of discovery in the Pacific Ocean. He sailed thousands of miles of largely uncharted waters, mapping New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii for the British Navy. He died in Hawaii in 1779, leaving behind a huge legacy of scientific and geographical knowledge.

HMS Bark Endeavour has the company of some smaller craft

And a whole load of swans!

So hard to resist boat shots!

There’s a mural disguising the multi-storey car park

But now it's time to cross over the bridge

But now it’s time to cross over the Millenium bridge

Looking back at the boats and Thornaby railway bridge

Looking back- the Princess river cruiser and Thornaby railway bridge

While the clouds lurk overhead!

We’re heading back towards the Infinity Bridge. On the far shore of the Tees there are numerous office complexes and we thread our way through them, passing poorly maintained canals.

Looking back across the Tees

Keeping the curves of the Infinity in sight

Under bridges and over bridges

Till we burst into the light again!

You could play with the angles all day

But look behind you. A storm’s a-brewing!

One last look to the heavens

And it’s time to quickly cross!

You know your way back from here, don’t you, and it’s not far. Maybe a coffee in the White Water Centre, or there’s a pub along at the Tees Barrage. The easiest access is undoubtedly by car, but you could do the walk from Stockton, which is well served by buses and trains.

I’m not going to be walking with you next week. I hope to be on a different riverbank- the Seine. I could schedule a walk but I prefer not to. The joy in my Monday feature comes from sharing, and responding to your lovely comments, and I won’t have time to do that in Paris. Feel free to explore a little without me, but report back, won’t you?

Two more things before I go. I noticed that my friend Marianne, from East of Malaga, is featuring Bridges in her CBBH challenge this month. We’ve been friends for the longest time but I seldom have time to visit. I’m hoping she won’t mind if I include a link to my walk this week. It certainly features bridges, doesn’t it? A condition of the CBBH challenge is to introduce 2 of your friends to Marianne. I will certainly do that with my links below.

Speaking of friends, and I’ve made so many of you on here, I know that I will be walking in the footsteps of Christine at least some of the time next week. I couldn’t go without one last tribute.

I hope you’ll find some time to visit my lovely walking friends now. Put that kettle on!

Jude has found me a mill and a lovely public garden in Gatehouse of Fleet :

The Gatehouse of Fleet

The Travel Bunny, Suzanne, has gelato on her mind. It must be the weather! :

Pisa- Much more than a Leaning Tower

Drake found some long haired cattle to walk with us this week. He always has fun! :

On the West (not the Wild West!)

It will be very tempting to sit down on Amy’s walk this week, but you might need a cushion :

Spanish tiles

That’s it for now! See you in two weeks time. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : City of Sunderland

Looking out at the quay, from the National Glass Centre

You might remember, before I started my regular Monday walks feature, the post A Promenade to Roker? It started from the National Glass Centre and followed the River Wear out to the beach at Roker, north of Sunderland. I always intended to try a walk in the opposite direction, following the river through the city. Since I promised you a level walk last week, I thought this might be a good one to try.

It’s an industrial area and the National Glass Centre is like a jewel at its centre. I’m like a kid with a new toy if I get to visit, so we’ll be popping in later, but right now it’s time to start walking.

We’ll start on the quayside, outside the Glass Centre

A number of boats are casually moored, waiting for an owner

This gently blue one’s a favourite

But I took my eye off the boats for long enough to look at this!

We’re walking alongside the University of Sunderland, and in term time the grass is strewn with students. This morning the sun was glinting prettily on the medieval book, outside the university library. There’s a wry sense of humour in the placement of giant nuts and bolts on the quay.

And the inevitable graffiti, of course!

Compensated for by this willowy creation

It’s base decorated appropriately

With tools

The tree

And a crane

We're walking towards the bridge over the River Wear

We’re walking towards the road and rail bridges over the River Wear

And then beneath them

To a short, pretty stretch of the river

Where barely a ripple disturbs the surface

There are many reminders of the pitheads and the harsh life that miners and their families lived.

Brockwell Bottom, 645 metres deep

An ode to Sarah Seed

Part of the pithead

The ‘black diamond’ warms

The mouth of hell

On the far shore, a crane building factory

Today a ‘crane building’ factory decorates the far shore

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Looking back at the wall plaques (and at Sunderland FC )

Soon after this the riverside path runs out, and we have the choice whether to retrace our steps or to see a little more. Curiosity always takes me onto unfamiliar ground so I followed the curve of the path. It loops up to join the Coast to Coast cycle route, which runs from the east coast all the way across to Whitehaven in Cumbria.

This results in a closer look at the ‘Stadium of Light’

And the Olympic sized swimming pool

Alongside the ‘Black Cats’, as Sunderland are fondly known

Bob Stokoe would have been proud

Of the interesting sculptures outside

I head towards the bridges, cross at the busy traffic lights by St. Peter’s Metro stop, and drop back down to the river path within sight of my start point.

A couple of tugboats are just completing their business

For you and me, a treat awaits

Inside the Glass Centre

A crab sandwich? Don’t mind if I do

And a bit of a browse

Aren’t these simply gorgeous?

Linger as long as you want. There’s always something going on. I noticed on my table a leaflet for ‘Hen Night Heaven!’ Only in the north east! You can learn to blow a glass bauble followed by a delicious afternoon tea, with champagne. Details of all events, and how to get here, are on this link to the National Glass Centre.

Before you leave, take a look up! You’ll probably see people wandering across the roof.

Hello! Can you see me down here?

Don’t worry! It’s reinforced glass.

And that’s the way we walked. Good, wasn’t it?

Phew! Hope you enjoyed our walk today. It’s time to look at some more, then click on my Jo’s Monday walk logo to see how you can join in. You’d better get yourself a cuppa first!

Jude took me back to Grasmere last week. I haven’t been for the longest time :

Circumnavigating Grasmere Lake

I had such fun riding around in the panier on Drake’s bike, but I really should get off and walk! :

The bike as the stowaways

Bird lovers among you will absolutely delight in this. Welcome to my walks, Jo! Please go and say ‘hi’ to Jo everybody :

I just love birds

Laura’s had back surgery, but has put together a wonderful historical ramble in London :

Walkabout 2- the Fleet by foot

If I were to find myself in Amy’s Lan Su, I would think I’d died and gone to heaven :

Lan Su Garden

And finally, Kathryn has brought me the most beautiful light on the Dutch canals :

Mas en Peel

Please go and give Kathryn a hug. Things aren’t going so well. See you all next week, I hope?

Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby cliff tops

St. Mary's Church, suspended on the cliff top

St. Mary’s Church and Whitby Abbey, suspended on the cliff top

Now, I know what you’re thinking! ‘This lady is obsessed with cliff tops and water’. And you wouldn’t be very far wrong. After the cliffs at Sagres in the Algarve, and last week’s Seaham walk, it’s becoming a recurring theme. I do try to vary my walks for you, but I can’t help being just a little biased.

This week we’re going down the North Yorkshire coast to Whitby. Last time I took you there we went window shopping. It’s a small town that has something for everyone, but my favourite part is unquestionably up on the cliff, looking down. First we have to get up there. We’ll tackle the steps pretty soon, to get them out of the way. Your reward can be fish and chips afterwards. Agreed?

The car park is right next to the marina- a good place to start!

I love the eye-catching colours of the boats

Smart as paint!

And today there’s a treat! The swing bridge is opening.

In all my years, I have rarely seen this sight in the bustling little port. A crowd gathers to watch the sailboat go by, and as the gates swing shut again, a queue forms to cross over the bridge. A delightful party of small schoolchildren with cheery blazers were being corralled by their teachers. I’d have loved a shot but they were too fidgety! Over we go, to be met by a confusion of signs.

There is a confusion of signs! And can you see the bubbles coming out of that box?

I thought these bubbles were with the schoolchildren, but apparently not!

Then it’s the steps! Only 199 of them

But don't worry! You can stop to admire the view.

But don’t worry! You can keep stopping to admire the view.

It’s lovely in either direction

Here’s an interesting place to live! Next to Caedmon’s Trod

And at the top St. Mary's Church is beckoning

And at the top, St. Mary’s Church quietly waits

Whitby has been welcoming visitors for a long time. The earliest record of a permanent settlement is 656AD, when an abbey was founded on the East Cliff by Oswy, the Christian king of Northumbria. Viking raiders destroyed the monastery that followed, and for 200 years the site lay desolate, until after the Norman Conquest of 1066. The area was then granted to William de Percy who, in 1078, donated land upon which was constructed a Benedictine Monastery, St. Mary’s Church and the town and port of Whitby.

The name Whitby comes from Old Norse, meaning ‘White Settlement’. It was here, in Whitby Abbey, that the earliest recognised English poet, Caedmon, a former cowherd, lived and worked. The town has a strong literary history and famously features in Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

Set on the River Esk, Whitby has a sheltered harbour, and in the 18th century the port was a thriving centre for shipbuilding, whaling and the transport of locally mined alum and jet. The jet became very fashionable when Queen Victoria adopted it for her mourning jewellery on the death of Prince Albert. Whitby jet shops still feature prominently in the cobbled streets today.

The clouds are gathering, so it’s time to move on

Pass by the entrance to the Abbey ruins

And out on the cliff top, look back at Whitby Abbey and the pier

Ahead lies Saltwell Nab

And beyond that, Whitby Holiday Park, balanced precariously on the cliffs

At this point you can turn inland and follow a path back to the coast road, but I wanted to see more. We are only 1 mile out of Whitby, and 5 miles further down the coast is idyllic Robin Hood’s Bay. I continue on, along the Cleveland Way.

Whitby is still visible in the distance

And below, the glistening bay

While colourful Cinnebar moths flutter at the cliff's edge

While colourful red and black Cinnebar moths explore delicious yellow cowslips

Another treat in store next- a former lighthouse and fog-horn station

Another treat awaits – a lighthouse and a fog-horn station!

‘Hornblower Lodge’ is now a holiday cottage, but was formerly a fog-horn station, fondly known as the Whitby Bull. The original horn was switched off in 1987 but before that it worked in conjunction with Whitby High Light. The lighthouse is only 13 metres high but is positioned on the cliff top, 73 metres above high water level, with a range of 18 nautical miles.

The lighthouse also has holiday cottages to let, details included in the link.

Whitby High Light

Wouldn’t you like to live here? I would!

Or how about ‘Hornblower Cottage’?

A lane heads inland from the cottage, taking you past farmland, and soon you are back on the coastal road. You can follow this all the way back to Whitby and visit the Abbey, if you like. It’s well worth a visit, and there is a restaurant on site. Or you can save the visit for another day and take the footpath to your left, just past the Holiday Park sign. This will bring you back into Whitby, threading your way down through the houses to end up almost opposite your start point.

Heading back to Whitby

Down the steps, and past the houses

Back at your start point, at the harbourside

Till you’re back at our start point, by the harbour

These are the newest lobster pots I ever saw!

These are the newest lobster pots I have ever seen!

Speaking of lobster, I seem to remember we had an agreement? Whitby is full of fish and chip shops but ‘Hadleys’ is a favourite of mine. Always busy, I don’t know how the girls stay so cheerful. You’ll find it on the corner, just over the swing bridge and before the Whitby steps.

No, I haven't forgotten! Believe me, they are really good

A little expensive, but very good

Just one last photo, for Jill, who thinks my skies are always blue!

The downpour drove me inside the excellent Tourist Information Centre, right by the car park, but it didn’t last for long. Or I could have gone shopping for Whitby jet.

What do you think?

My walk is about 6 miles in total, or the shorter version 4 and a half. I hope you enjoyed it. If you don’t drive, Whitby is easily accessible by rail from Middlesbrough. This link will give you lots more information about the area, to encourage you to visit.

I’m so lucky this week! Meg has agreed to be my tour guide to the Wilanow Palace in Warsaw :

http://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/a-stroll-through-the-gardens-at-wilanow/

And she doesn’t mind a spot of rain, either :

http://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/07/13/walking-in-the-rain/

Drake introduced me to Svendborg in Denmark. What a beauty! :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/07/14/an-old-port-out-to-the-world/

Please don’t miss Jude’s Logan Botanic Gardens. You will be bedazzled! :

http://smallbluegreenflowers.wordpress.com/2014/07/14/garden-portrait-logan-botanic-garden/

Sylvia is running out of time for her beach walks, but don’t be sad! :

http://anotherday2paradise.wordpress.com/2014/07/15/another-nostalgic-beach-walk-for-jo/

And I got deluged at the falls with Amy- and loved it! :

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/07/16/jos-monday-walk-multnomah-falls/

Pauline (you know her as Pommepal) has sent me a post all the way from Canberra, down under :

http://pommepal.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/welcome-to-cool-climate-canberra/

And I thought I’d just update you on Elaine :

http://elainemcnulty.wordpress.com/2014/07/16/yorkshire-3-peaks-challenge-the-update/

That’s quite a lot of reading for you so you’ll need a cuppa (or two!). I promise to find you a flat walk for next week. If you’d like to join me, just click on the logo for details.

Jo’s Monday walk : Seaham ‘Tommy’

Sculpture Eleven O One, known by the locals as ‘Tommy’

It’s a far cry from the cliff tops of the Algarve to the Green above the cliffs in former mining town, Seaham, but that’s where our walk will take us this week. The campaign to keep Tommy in place has attracted national attention, and I needed to see him for myself.

Built out of special corten steel by local sculptor, Ray Lonsdale, Eleven O One is so named for the armistice which came into effect at 11am on November 11, 1918. His air of total bone weariness and despair makes you want to throw an arm around him. Originally intended to be in place for just 3 months, Tommy has touched so many hearts that donations have almost raised the £85,000 needed to keep him.

I’ve taken you to Seaham before, though not on my Monday walks. It has a long seafront and a pretty little marina. Come with me and I’ll show you a bit more.

I’m starting at the car park at the far end of the front

And walking back along it towards the lighthouse

Pausing to admire the many rock pools

There’s a lot of cloud today

So the sea isn’t quite at it’s twinkly best

But it’s still a place where the starfish like to play!

For the moment we will bypass the Green, where a crowd gathers to have a photo taken with Tommy. I will come back when it’s quieter, to lay a hand on his knee and try to console him. Instead, we will drop down into the marina, not looking quite so pretty today with heavy skies.

Boats can always snare my attention

With a waft of flowers to cheer them up

And a few noble weeds

Can you see the birds nesting on the back wall?

I always like to have a few boat shots!

This reflective one is my favourite

There are good views out to the lighthouse from the cafe that sits above the marina, and the RNLI have an excellent museum, showcasing the lifeboat, if you have time to browse.

Leaving the marina, I look out to the lighthouse

And back across the bay, at Seaham , above the cliffs

There are miles of cliff tops so you can extend the walk as far as you want. There are parking facilities at both ends of the seafront and also by the Green. A lower promenade takes you closer to the beach, or you can check out the craft shops and sample local cuisine if that appeals more. But now it’s time to return to Tommy.

Too tired for thought

The eternal weapon in his hand

Rations and the cares of the world on his back

Sunk in despair

Tommy’s story

If only it were over!

Could anything be more sad?

Time I shared with you some brilliant walks from last week. You can click on the logo above or my Jo’s Monday walks page for details of how to join in. You’re always very welcome.

First up we have Elaine, fresh from the Three Peaks Challenge on Saturday. I think she’s earned a rest this week! :

walking The Ridgeway from Tring Station to Wendover

Drake has been a loyal supporter since I started my walks. Come with us to lovely Strasbourg :

Age do charm

Jude always has an eye for a beautiful garden and this week is no exception :

Garden Portrait: Glenwhan Gardens

The Alcazar in Seville is a special place, especially when seen through Amy’s lens :

Jo’s Monday Walk: the Alcázar Gardens

You need a strong stomach for Sue’s post this week. Deep fried Oreos? After you! :

http://traveltalesoflife.com/2014/07/11/chocolate-dipped-bacon-and-scorpion-pizza-eating-at-the-calgary-stampede-a-wild-ride/

Happy walking folks! I hope to see you next week.

Jo’s Monday walk : Fortaleza de Sagres

The Wind Compass, inside the fort at Sagres

When we started our epic journey, I had the west coast of the Algarve firmly in mind. Known for its cooling breezes on warmer days and its wild stretches of Atlantic facing beach, I planned a visit to the Costa Vicentina. Unfortunately, by the time we had completed last Monday’s walk at the Barragem de Bravura and our sojourn at Figueira beach, it was already mid afternoon.

The uppermost thing in our minds was a drink. Water, wine, orange juice- almost anything would have done by this stage! So, what did I end up with? A tin of Sagres, the locally brewed beer. I am not, by nature, a beer or lager drinker, but the popping of the can was bliss to my ears. Parking the car on the clifftop at Sagres, we almost ran downhill to the nearest kiosk. Michael selected his favourite, Fanta orange, and sat, staring vacantly at yet another beach.

Mareta, the town beach at Sagres, with the Fortaleza in the distance

I had planned to call at Sagres on my way back from the Costa Vicentina. The last time I had been, it was a chilly, overcast day, early in the year. Not today!

The town has an interesting history and is closely linked to Henry the Navigator, who set up a nautical school locally. He helped to finance the Portuguese voyages of discovery, and by the time of his death, in 1460, landings had already been made at Sierra Leone in Africa. An amazing achievement for the tiny caravels! The Sagres link above takes you to Wikipedia, for some details.

Having got a second wind, it was time to stroll through the town and along the Rua de Fortaleza, the approach to the mighty fortress. Of course, Michael wanted to know why we couldn’t just have parked in the enormous parking bays beside the fort. Where’s the drama in that?

The Rose Compass, or sundial

The approach to the fortress walls

Details of the Rose Compass

The church of Senhora da Graca

Inside the simple church

The beautifully peeling bell tower

The original church plan

The padrao

The purpose of the Rose Compass is a little uncertain. It may well have been a navigational aid, or just a sundial. The setting is undeniably powerful. Soaring cliffs drop away on either side of you, as you gaze out at the open sea.

Work on the huge battlements is ongoing, and not entirely sympathetic, but I found myself moved my the place. A path leads out around the headland, with majestic views.

The shoreline crumbles beneath you

With canon still poised, ready!

In the far distance, Cabo S. Vicente lighthouse- the most westerly spot in Europe

Far distant Cabo S. Vicente lighthouse- the most westerly spot in Europe

The beacon, closer to hand

Yellow polka dots strewn among the plummy aliums

Yellow polka dots mingle with the plumy aliums

The view back to Mareta beach

The feet were tiring as we headed back through the hefty tunnel entrance. Tiny Praca da Republica, the main square, has a choice of restaurants with outdoor tables. ‘A Cabana’ suited us nicely. I imagined it would be a lively spot on an evening but it was time for the drive home. It had been quite a day!

Even as I was taking this walk, I just knew it had to be one of my Jo’s Monday walks. What I could never have imagined is what took place last week. On Sunday, 30th June, I received a walk from Christine at Dadirridreaming, back in Australia after a wonderful European holiday. She and Stuart had taken the walk up Glastonbury Tor one rainy day on their visit to England. We joked about the weather!

In this virtual world of ours, it’s easy to miss comments sometimes. Christine’s last comment to me, on 1st July, I didn’t spot. She was advising me that I should link my walking logo to my Jo’s Monday walk page, as she had done. I have, Christine. I have! How very typical of this dearly loved woman, and I’m in tears again as I share this with you.

http://dadirridreaming.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/glastonbury-tor/

It’s hard to follow that, isn’t it? But when you have some time, please return here and share the walks of my other contributors last week. There are some very fine ones.

Drake takes us to beautiful Berchtesgarten :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/on-the-edge-of-the-bavarian-alps/

It was wonderful to have been joined this week by Laura. And only 3 weeks after back surgery, that’s impressive! : http://telltaletherapy.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/walkabout-1-st-margarets-to-rye-house-circular/

Jude took me down Memory Lane with a glorious evening stroll around Derwentwater : http://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/a-lakeside-evening-stroll/

You will certainly not have ‘the blues’ when you see Elisa’s post! It made my heart skip : http://elisaruland.com/2014/06/29/hiking-shorts-the-pacific-blues/

A friend you may not know, Kat, has introduced me to beauty and thrills in Corsica. It’s one not to miss : http://www.thecorsicablog.co.uk/2012/09/hiking-la-restonica/

And last, but never least, Yvette has gone on a Summer break, but not without leaving me a great post : http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/07/02/walking-in-rva-street-portraits-3/

It’s been an emotional week, hasn’t it? I’m off out walking very soon but will catch up with you all this evening. Have a good week my friends.

Jo’s Monday walk : Barragem de Bravura

The colour of this water delights me

Over the weeks I’ve shown you quite a few different aspects of the Algarve. Today we’re going to what the ‘Rough Guide’, my travel bible, describes as ‘the most picturesque’ of the Algarve’s many reservoirs. I could find no reason to disagree.

Situated north of Lagos, at the western end of the Algarve, we drove first to the village of Odiaxere and followed signs from there. It is also signed from Bensafrim on N120. Unspoilt countryside rolls away beautifully to either side.

I wasn’t sure if this meant we were welcome, or not!

This sign confused me rather, and I worried for a moment about overt commercialism, but nothing could have been further from the truth. The restaurant appeared closed and I don’t think we passed more than 4 people on the entire walk. The car park lay just beyond this point, and from there a pebbly path wound down to the dam.

Past what I presumed was the dam keeper’s cottage, in a lovely situation

And there was the dam

Crossing over the dam leads to a rough track around the edge of the reservoir. It wriggles prettily in and out of coves, disappearing into the distance. An invitation to follow.

Looking back at the dam

And out across the lake

The eucalyptus forms a screen

And that alluring water beckons!

While wispy leaves disguise

The wider vista beyond

Now is probably a good time to mention that at the outset I had no idea of the length of this walk. I expected to find an information board or two along the trail, as is customary, but none materialised on the stretch I walked.

You might have realised by now that I’m not always a practical, sensible creature. While full of good intent, I had omitted to bring bottled water with me on this warm Summer’s day. (In my defence, I did have a map and a guide book!) There was nowhere around at which a purchase could be made. Looking across the lake I could see from the many inlets that walking right around it was not going to be an option. So it was a case of walking to a point at which I could bare to turn back, and then retracing my steps.

This was no hardship, as the views in either direction were lovely. The additional good news was that I couldn’t possibly get lost.

The path continued to meander

Guarded over by the eucalyptus

Hiding amongst the tree roots were delicate flowers

Mr. Frog!

And little ‘lemon drops’, grabbing the shade

At one point we came upon a couple with a picnic. Now, wouldn’t that have been a sensible idea? You would certainly have needed insect repellent though.

Still, the water was exquisitely turquoise

Winding around the lake

And back to our beginnings

On my return to the UK I tried unsuccessfully to find a website with a few more details about the trail around the reservoir. The nearest I came was a German walking site which suggested that a full circuit would take between 7 and 8 hours! This was not recommended because at some point the trail leaves the water’s edge and crosses higher ground, without benefit of any shade.

My cycling friends would probably be quite happy to make a full circuit. For the less energetic of us, I would suggest that it would be a grand spot to take a book and just listen to the birds. And picnic too, of course.

For me the walk was part of a three way adventure. I’ll tell you more about that next time.

Now it’s time to share last week’s walks. I have created a Jo’s Monday walks page, which I hope will answer any queries. Click on the logo if you need help, or come and meet my lovely friends.

Drake is quick off the mark! He was first again last week, with beautiful Strasbourg :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/06/23/cityscape-walking/

Some wonderful surprises occurred! Colline joined me, all the way from Toronto, with an expedition to Chinatown :

http://collinesblog.wordpress.com/2014/06/23/out-shopping-in-chinatown/

And Sylvia brought the Indian Ocean right to my doorstep :

http://anotherday2paradise.wordpress.com/2014/06/23/jos-monday-walk-challenge-up-the-hill-and-back-along-the-beach-front/

Remember Amy’s wonderful ‘hacienda’ in Spain? I bet you’d like to see more! :

https://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/06/23/jos-monday-walk-ronda-countryside/

I was a little scared about the ghosts till I read Sue’s post. Then, I was gobsmacked! What a stunner! Take me to Banff, please :

http://traveltalesoflife.com/2014/06/23/lake-minnewanka-banffs-lake-of-the-spirits/

Please do join me if you can. I love a bit of company when I’m walking.

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Ilha da Culatra

Jo’s Monday walk : Captain Cook’s Monument

Jo’s Monday walk : the village of Giverny

Jo’s Monday walk : Discovering Montmartre

Jo’s Monday walk : to Infinity and beyond!

Jo’s Monday walk : City of Sunderland

Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby cliff tops

Jo’s Monday walk : Seaham ‘Tommy’

Jo’s Monday walk : Fortaleza de Sagres

Jo’s Monday walk : Barragem de Bravura

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