White broom and a salt mountain
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Photography
Jo’s Monday walk : Remember Culatra?
Some weeks I have no idea where to take you. After all, there are only so many hills I can drag you up and down in search of cake, aren’t there? So, I thought we’d take it fairly easy this week and hop on a boat. Always my default setting. You might recognise the marina at Olhão, above.
With 20 minutes of smooth calm sailing, you just about have time to say goodbye to the mainland before you’re approaching Culatra, one of the Algarve’s barrier islands. You can leap off at the first stop, or continue along the shoreline towards the lean white lighthouse at Farol. There’s a small village at either end of the island and, after a meander through the cluster of villas and shacks, you can slip off your shoes for a paddle.
It looks like somebody’s been shipwrecked here! Still, with a ferry every couple of hours, rescue is pretty certain. It’s a long swim to Fuzeta!
Paddling done it’s time to cross over the boardwalk and pootle about with boats. I’ll not spend time lingering among the narrow alleyways, charming though they are. If you remember, we had a good look around last time I brought you here. A lot of work is going on, laying new paths on the island, so maybe change is afoot. Hopefully nothing too drastic!
It doesn’t always pay to nose around. I almost fell foul of this little creature. He was sitting innocently beside a boat, when I unwittingly invaded his territory. Leaping and snarling, he made quite sure that I wasn’t up to no good. I beat a hasty retreat, making what I hoped were soothing noises.
The seagulls were completely indifferent but a couple of small boys playing football were highly amused. I raised a cheer when I lobbed their ball back to them, over a fence. Kids here lead a simple life. In warmer weather they become water babies, diving off the pier again and again, to the cheers of their mates, and swimming like gleeful fish.
On board again, we chug back across the water. Entertainment is provided by some fellow passengers feeding the gulls, which swoop and perform aerobatics to snatch the bread. In no time we’re ashore and strolling along the quayside, seeking refreshment.
We find it down an inviting passageway. Such a nice reward for a minimum of effort. Healthy, too? I hope you enjoyed sharing.
More great walks this week. Do find time to read them, please. You might make some new friends. And if you can, join me next week on Jo’s Monday walk? You know I like a bit of company.
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Cathy honoured me with a link to her Camino walk last week, but I missed it. Please don’t!
(Camino: day 4) Zubiri to Pamplona
And sometimes she takes me places I’ve never even heard of! Who says blogging isn’t educational?
Great Sand Dunes National Park
I’m always in awe of her photography, and jealous of the places she’s been. Thanks so much, Debs!
You can share anything on my walks… and Drake often does! 🙂
Denzil is right on my wavelength. A peaceful riverside walk with a castle or two :
Walking around Westerlo: river, castles and an abbey!
When she’s not eating, she’s shopping! Always good fun with Jackie :
All the way to Guatemala next, with Natalie :
Postcard from Antigua, Guatemala
Lisa’s taking us on one of her favourite walks, by the Hudson river :
A short walk with a stroller sometimes suits Alice :
While Irene cheers us with ice blue (and a warm coat and scarf!) :
Snow can look so pretty, but I’m keeping a safe distance! 🙂 Thanks, Eunice :
A snowy walk to Smithills Hall
Ending with Susan, and some fascinating memories of her time in the Peace Corps, and a very different world :
Have a great week, everybody! Me? I have another week of walking, t’ai chi, stuttering along in Portuguese and hopefully more lovely sunrises.
Six word Saturday
Lost in a blaze of glory
Not much else to say, is there? But please do visit Debbie at Six Word Saturday. You will be dazzled! And have a happy weekend!
Jo’s Monday walk : Furnazhinas to Odeleite Dam
I’ve been wanting to go back to Furnazhinas ever since I discovered this lovely village last year. It sits up in the hills, at the eastern end of the Via Algarviana, a 300km inland walk which crosses the whole of the Algarve. The good news for me is that there are 2 much shorter walks which pass through the village, and on a gloriously sunny January day we decided to sample one. It was an easy choice. PR9 leads south of the village, signed Mina e Albufeira (not the popular one!) in the direction of the dam at Odeleite. It promised views over the water, and I was sold!
Scarcely were we out of the village when we encountered solid looking stepping stones, beside an ancient well. Not a trace of water- so far this has been a dry winter. The path started out on schist, the rockbed of much of the Algarvian hills. I was enchanted with the vibrant green grass, growing over and around the boulders, and dotted with a myriad daisies. An old stone wall accompanied us much of the way, till we crossed a road and left it behind. The blossoms were nodding, everywhere. We tiptoed past a row of beehives, anxious not to disturb the inhabitants.
As we crested a hill, I caught my first glimpse of the dam. Just a snippet of blue in the distance, but it put a spring in my step. As we descended, the blue changed from heart shape to an azure oval, softly lapping a small island.
Amongst all that blue, suddenly a flash of white caught my eye. I could hardly believe it! My first cistus of the year. Incredibly early! And then, a few metres away, a second. They are the most beautiful plants, and soon the hills will be full of them.
I turned full circle to look at the dam, almost surrounding me at shore level. A lone boat sat, it’s nose in the water. I wondered if I might set it adrift, and glide smoothly into the silence, holding my breath as I counted the ripples.
Even on this arid shoreline the daisies were flourishing, and I was astounded to find, nestling in shade, a clump or two of wild lavender. The bugs must have been busy, because next day I had a wonderfully itchy large red lump. Serves me right for messing with nature!
Reluctantly I set off back along the trail, pausing again to admire the cistus. It was mostly uphill going back so I was amused to note the inappropriate footwear dangling from a tree. The blossom spurred me on and eventually we were back to the road.
The direction? Inevitably up, to the trig point, where late afternoon sun bathed the surrounding hills. Our target, Furnazhinas, there below.
All downhill, we returned to the sleepy village. 7.8km in total according to the sign, but it had taken us a good couple of hours. Next time we’d walk north. As we returned to the car, a couple of old lads in the fields paused in their work to smile and wave at us. And a donkey brayed scornfully. Perhaps he knew something we didn’t? No cake! But lots of lovely walks to share…
Shall we get the cold stuff out of the way first? Lisa is joining us this week :
Crunch through the fields with Margaret :
Ragtag Saturday : Frosted fields
A full-on attack on the ski-slopes with Drake!
Irene can almost compete, with -4F 😦 but oh, so beautiful!
The damp stuff can still be beautiful, as Xenia shows :
Geoff labours on, but he’s in good company and the scenery is superb :
Walking With The Wind At My Back : Part Three
Speaking of beauty, I’ve really enjoyed hopping around the Hebrides with Anabel :
Hebridean Hop 20: Craigston, Cleit and Eoligarry
Life is always colourful (and filling!) with Jackie :
Sandra is joining us, all the way from Texas. Please say ‘hello!’
Ruston Way, #Tacoma #Saturday Snapshot
Alice takes us back in time, past troubled times to serenity :
Historical Site on St. Helena Island
While Indra proves that life can be more than a beach :
And Rupali captures high drama in the city :
Dramatic cityscapes of Hong Kong
And talking of cities, don’t miss my lovely friend Carol’s take on Toronto!
That’s your reading matter for another week. Come walking next time? You’ll be very welcome here at Jo’s Monday walk. See you soon!
Six word Saturday
Not warm enough for a swim
But I did see someone in the water. Cacela Velha is a lovely spot to just sit and daydream. Debbie’s sharing blue sky too. Don’t forget it’s Six Word Saturday! Have a good one 🙂
Jo’s Monday walk : Fuseta at Blossom time
As promised, almond blossom in the Algarve this week. This is a variation on a walk we’ve done previously, this time starting in the small seaside town of Fuseta. It’s just a few stops west of Tavira by train. Wave your passport at the conductor and you’ll get half fare if you’re a pensioner. Well, there have to be some advantages to being over the hill!
Not too many hills this near to the coast, but it’s up and over the railway tracks and out into the countryside. We’ve barely taken a few steps when we’re in a field, surrounded by almond blossom. I stand and stare! Blossom is opening up in trees all along the roadside, but this is the first time I’ve seen the flowers out in such force.
I can’t understand how my walking friends can be so oblivious of their surroundings, and I linger far behind. Maybe it’s the lure of a coffee stop up ahead. On they go, following a path through the fields, a glimpse of sea shimmering on the horizon.
Soon we’re on a paved lane, leading to the E125- a busy road which stretches almost end to end of the Algarve. We are making a stop at Tianica, a pottery workshop with a cafe and terrace at the rear.
Avoiding temptation in order to have space for lunch, it’s back to the lane after coffee. A track leads down to the edge of the salt marshes and we follow it back in the direction of Fuseta. The tide is low, and boats sit silently in the sludge, waiting to be rescued when it turns.
It’s not a long walk, though you can extend it further through the marshes, which continue on the far side of town. We thread between the fishermen’s cottages and the apartment blocks, and I’m delighted to find remnants of Christmas in the yarn bombed trees.
Go on, admit it! You’re more interested in lunch. A leisurely affair at La Plage, on the front at Fuseta, culminating in cake, of course. I stood in line at the cabinet, hopeful that there’d be a morsel of tiramisu left. I must have looked desperate, because the waiter served me the last slice and then added a scoop of profiterole to my plate. Lucky, or what?
Totally replete, I sat by the waterside afterwards, keeping a lazy eye on life. Finally I persuaded myself to stir in the direction of home.
Short but sweet, I hope? I bet you enjoyed the cake. Got a walk you’d like to share? Join me here on Jo’s Monday walk for a warm welcome.
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Shall we start with a good clamber? I think Debbie wrote this one just for Sue :
Clambering through an old Omani village
Anabel is realistic about Scottish weather, but it doesn’t stop her enjoying the beauty :
I never saw a prettier lighthouse than this one. Thanks, Alice :
What do you like in your soup? Can I have Coconut Shrimp for mains please, Jackie :
The ‘Australian Outback’ on her doorstep is giving Suzanne lots of pleasure :
Geoff continues the saga of walking with his Dad :
Walking With The Wind At My Back : Part Two
I know it can be beautiful, but I’m not missing this at all, Drake :
Brian takes us to subtropical community gardens for a little heat. Want to join him?
Lismore Rainforest Botanical Gardens – the paths
Much nearer to my new home, some beautiful Algarve clifftops :
A cliff walk from Carvoeiro to Ferragudo : the ‘Trail of the Headlands’
While Susan takes us back to a place where she once lived. The lady has a fascinating past :
Walking Back Home – Pasto, Colombia
And Cathy explores a house not many of us would venture into :
That’s it for another week. Please find time to read them. I shall be out and about, as usual. Hope the weather’s kind, wherever you are.
Six word Saturday
The ending to another perfect day
And then I came home and watched Rafa. 🙂 Have a great weekend, and don’t forget to have fun with Debbie’s Six Word Saturday.
Jo’s Monday walk : Party time in Ayamonte
You could be forgiven for thinking that I don’t really like living in Portugal at all! Here I am, hopping on a ferry and crossing the border to Spain, yet again. Actually, I was trying to salvage a day that was rapidly turning into a disaster.
Not for the youngsters, and Spanish families, though. Owing to my bad timing I managed to completely miss the traditional Three Kings procession at Vila Real de Santo Antonio in the Algarve last week. They had already ferried across to Ayamonte when I got there and not a trace of them was to be found in the sleepy streets. Portuguese families were quietly strolling, sipping coffee in the cafés and contemplating lunch. In a vain effort to catch up with the action, I persuaded the other half that we too should ferry across the Guadiana.
The atmosphere couldn’t have been more different in Spain! It felt like the whole world was on the streets, out for a thoroughly good time. A party was brewing and each and every plaza resounded with lively Spanish chatter. But still no sign of the Kings! Taking a breather from the hubbub, we climbed steps through the old side of town to look down on the river.
Back at ground level, everyone seemed to be walking in the same direction, the noise level constantly rising. Tempting to take refuge for a while in the tranquility of the marina, overlooked by a faded sunset drama.
From across the street another mural smiles at me, inviting despite her tattered appearance. As people settle into bars and reach for another beer, I begin to realise that I am not destined to see the parade. The sun is already sinking low in the sky and the last ferry will be leaving soon. It’s a short ride across the river but a long walk back by road!
Time to make the best of the situation and simply enjoy a beautiful sunset ride home, on a warm and lovely January evening.
Next year I promise to be better organised. Did you notice, we didn’t even stop for cake? (though I did pick some up to nibble on the ferry 🙂 ). If you’d like to know more about the celebration, this link gives a little background. Right now I have walks to share. Join me next time on Jo’s Monday walk? You’ll be more than welcome.
Say hello to Natalie! She’s doing her best to get us all fit this year :
Wellness Post #1 : A Fresh Start
Suzanne’s not trying quite so hard. Coffee and cake, anyone? And beautiful scenery too, of course :
A Walk around Mt. Maunganui Mauao
There’s no doubt that Carol’s right! The waterfront at Vancouver is the place to be :
Is it Winter somewhere in the world? Apparently so! Drake’s tracked it down for us :
No such problems at Alice’s place!
While Geoff launches a series of fond memories with his Dad :
Walking With The Wind At My Back : Part One
Jackie always seems to have a plan or two up her sleeve :
And Anabel has always just been somewhere interesting and beautiful :
More amazing architectural explorations with Cathy, this week :
Chaco Culture: Pueblo Arroyo & the Casa Rinconada community
You may not wander far but, if you look, you can always find something interesting. Pauline and Jack set a fine example :
Lens-Artists photo challenge : Curves in Buddhism
Next week I shall be sharing purely Portuguese almond blossom. For now my attention is seriously distracted by Australian Open tennis and the return to play of Rafael Nadal and Andy Murray. Have a great week, won’t you?
Six word Saturday
Can you believe, perfect blossom already?
The earliest I ever remember seeing it! We’ve had such wonderfully sunny days, but, ooh, it can be nippy on a night. 🙂 Debbie’s a bit of a wonder, too. How does she keep turning out such perfect Six Word Saturdays?
Jo’s Monday walk : A romp in El Rompido
Two lighthouses for the price of one! Driving into the village of El Rompido in Southern Spain, they are almost the first thing you see. The smaller of the two was erected in 1861, marking the mouth of the Piedras river. It no longer works, but its much taller amigo came along in 1975 and now lights up the estuary. Striking though they are, it’s not the lighthouses that have brought me here. El Rompido is home to the Marismas de Piedra y Flecha nature reserve and there are beautiful walks around the salt marshes.
The trail leads out around the edge of El Rompido, once a quiet fishing village, and in the off season still retaining much of its charm. Bypass the small marina and the golf course and you are surrounded by nature in all its finery.
The area is a magnet for bird watchers. The White Stork, Montagu’s harrier, stone curlew, the little grebe, the hoopoe, the spoonbill, the stilt, marsh harrier, the canastera, common tern, northern pintail, teals, the oystercatcher, the sandwich tern, the sandpiper, the plover, and the laughing gull can all be found here. As usual, my group was chattering like a flock of magpies so I failed to capture the evidence, but I did distance myself, once in a while, to admire the landscape.
Information boards along the way give you clues as to what to look for, and in places the trail diverges so you have a choice- longer or shorter. If you’re with a group, pay attention, or you’ll find yourself taking a wrong turn. It hardly matters though, as the landscape is flat and you can see for miles. The humpbacked bridge is visible long before you get there.
We have only crossed the border into Spain and driven half hour out to the coast, so it’s no surprise that the landscape is similar to that of the Algarve. Water rules here, too. A key difference arises as you turn into the woodland, where magnificent plumes of Umbrella pine line the path. These are not so common in the Algarve, but we share the prickly pear.
The trail turns back towards the village, and a boardwalk carries you past the golfers. It’s lined in places with the pretty lanterna that abound at this time of year, pink and yellow the most common. I especially like the rarer yellow and white variety.
Before long you are passing the lighthouses again, with time to wander the back streets of El Rompido, nonchalantly examining shop windows for a trinket or two before they close for siesta. Or perhaps you are hungry and need to head straight to your restaurant. There are any number to choose from, some with rather nice sea views. Do stop in at the tourismo, beside the church, if you possibly can. The friendliest, most informative receptionist I have ever met! It’s worth a return trip just to talk to her, and maybe even try the ferry crossing.
I like to end with a treat or two. The almond flavoured pudim flan was lovely, and isn’t that the most beautiful hibiscus you ever saw? And in case you are wondering what I’m doing in Spain, this is the other half of a pre-Christmas visit. I’m home in the Algarve right now, and it feels good.
The midnight hour at New Year, as planned, was spent on Ponte Romano bridge in Tavira, in company with some lovely people. We were told the fireworks weren’t as good as last year, but it really didn’t matter. We were where we wanted to be. Thank you all for accompanying me on the journey. You’re welcome on Jo’s Monday walk at any time. Let’s share some walks, shall we?
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Susan pushed herself right to the edge on this one!
Join Alice in sunny Savannah :
It was a very merry Christmas with Jackie :
And Eunice celebrated the New Year with some lovely bright skies :
Spot the likeness with Debbie, down at the souq? She’ll bash me for being cheeky 🙂
You just can’t have better company than Becky if you’re going on a walk. Do let her show you Porto :
Many of you will know Sartenada. I’m including this walk because it beautifully portrays 20 year old memories for me :
I do miss him when he’s not around! Drake travels the world, and shares generously :
Cathy risks heat stroke exploring more fascinating desert ruins :
Chaco Culture : Chetro Ketl & Pueblo Bonito
Some of my UK friends will be familiar with this one. Happily for me, I’m too far distant to test myself :
UK Hiking – South West Coast Path, Branscombe to Sidmouth
The festivities in the Algarve are finally over and it’s onwards into another year. I have more to share than I can possibly make time for. Life is full here- new friends, new language. Be patient with me? I’ll do my best.
restlessjo 
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