Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Aydon Castle

I still have a sackful of balmy, Algarve images to post but, here in England, the Autumn colour is fading fast. I thought I’d share this walk to Aydon Castle before the leaves have all departed. Though it’s just over the border into Northumberland, I’d never heard of this 13th century, fortified manor house until a couple of weeks ago.

I know lovely honey coloured Corbridge, where my walk starts, quite well. It’s riverside walks often tempt me. This is Roman Wall territory and there are any number of sites you can visit to delve back in time. Today though, I’m after a good tramp in the outdoors. No, don’t ask ‘which one?’

The walk starts from the free car park, just over the bridge, where you will also find a helpful map and suggestions for other trails in the neighbourhood. Cross over the bridge and head gently up through the town, bearing to the right.

Corbridge is a very genteel and affluent looking place. Not easy to imagine the Scottish border raids that once were a regular feature of this area. Livestock were often brought in from the fields at night, and a watch placed at each end of town to protect them from marauders. Way before that, Corbridge was the most northerly town in the Roman Empire.

Keep a watch for a signpost off to the left. Aydon Castle is one and a half miles from this point, initially following a narrow lane and then a footpath beside a lovely old stone wall. It’s a bit of a surprise to find yourself walking next to the noisy A69 but, once you cross the road bridge over this busy highway, you are again enfolded in English countryside. Did you notice the kilns off across the fields? It was my intention to circle around to see them on the return leg, but that didn’t quite happen.

The sheep are quietly contemplative, their fleece crisply white against the shimmering autumn foliage. Ahead, the trail drops down into the woods and weaves in and out of dappled shade. It’s a bit of a climb up towards the Castle.

Suddenly the solid walls are right there in front of you. Robert de Reymes, a wealthy merchant, built a manor house here, beside the Cor Burn, in 1296. It was originally a 2-storey building but in 1305 he obtained a licence to add battlements, crenellations and curtain walls. Despite this it was pillaged and burnt by the Scots in 1315. Two years later the English recaptured it, only to lose it again to the Scots in 1346.

In the middle of the 16th century the building was renovated, and mid 17th century it was converted into a farm. It remained a farm until 1966.

It is a remarkably solid building. Information panels showing the floor plans are strategically placed and, on the ground floor, there’s a charming storybook on a sturdy wooden table. Sunlight dances off the wall hangings in the regal hall. I find myself gazing at the rough roof tiles, high above the timber beams. The patterns intrigue.

Outside, Autumn continues to glow. I hope for a tearoom attached to the Castle, currently managed by English Heritage, but a small shop has to suffice. Lunch proves to be a bar of fudge and a hot chocolate, clutched for warmth. Still, it’s a fairytale setting and I’m not disappointed.

Leaving the castle behind, there are decisions to be made. Left or right? Left is a longer walk, which passes by the pottery kilns, but the light is already beginning to fade. I’m afraid that good sense prevails. A country lane eventually leads back to Corbridge.

I have some bad news for you. The Castle is now closed until April next year. I caught the last weekend, but the location is still lovely. The English Heritage website provides all the details, and if you want the full 6 mile circuit, pottery kilns included, this is how. There are some great pubs for food in Corbridge, if you’ve time to linger. Here it’s time to put the kettle on and settle in for a good read.

Many thanks to all for your wonderful contributions again this week. Your enthusiasm and support drives me ever onward. Hope you enjoyed this week’s walk. It’s easy to join in, if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.

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Debbie has a delicious waterside stroll for us this week. But do take care of your ankles!

Walking the Path of Customs

Desmond has a barrow in the market place. Molly is the singer with the band. Thanks Drake!

Ob-la-di, ob-la-da

Pink houses, peach houses, or how about lemon? Jude, in colourful Colchester :

A brief look at Colchester

Violet has found us some more delights this week! And it’s not even snowing! (Yet!)

Polar bears in a park

Anabel tests her fitness levels and comes out on top!

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River

And looking at glorious locations, not much can top this. Thanks, Lady Lee!

Monserrat, Spain – the trip of a lifetime

Jackie’s in Jamestown. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t named after my son :

Day 4 – Jamestown

Woolly is waving goodbye this week :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-The-Promenade

While Paula has a very special, luminous night time stroll to share :

Thursday’s Special: Pick a Word in November

And Susan has searched out some very beautiful fountains in Central Park :

Central Park’s North End

You can almost hear the noise from Carole’s Mute Swans! They’re fabulous :

Swanning Around

Next please let me introduce Unicorn and Bear, a hiking couple from Canada :

Grouse Mountain and Lynn Canyon, North Shore of Vancouver

Miriam’s feeling a bit adventurous this week, and why not?

Waterfall Therapy in Trentham

I wouldn’t get far on Kathryn’s walk because there’s a recycle book store. Serious temptation!

Campbell downtown

That’s it for another week. Hope you all have a good one. See you soon!

Jo’s Monday walk : The Masmorra Trail

In total contrast to last week’s walk, I’m taking you up into the Algarve hills today. Winding 43kms north of Tavira on a delicious roller coaster of a road, you will find the sleepy village of Cachopo. We can stop there on the way back, but for now we’re following signs for Martim Longo. High up, the scenery is beautiful, even though wearing its scorched autumn gown.

A left turn and you’re on barely surfaced roads that lead you, slowly, through three scarcely known villages to your ultimate destination, Mealha. Why so much effort, you might be wondering? Dolmens, or standing stones are the answer. I’m taking a step back in time to the 3rd millennia BC. But first, the village of Mealha, not without its own charms, including these witches’ hat buildings.

These circular buildings, with a conical roof, are known as ‘palheiros’ and are designed to store hay for cattle. Made of slate, the roofs are constructed of reeds from the river bed and ‘thatched’ with hay. Up to 6 metres in diameter and 2.5 metres high, it is not unknown for them to have provided dwelling places in the past. A little cramped, I think.

Distracted as I am, taking photos of the pointed huts and wells, I leave navigation to my partner. He’s usually reliable, but on this occasion it takes 3 false starts to escape the clutches of the village. Despite knowing smiles and hand signs from the villagers, we find ourselves scaling walls, only to end up in a cabbage patch. Not shown on the map! We cross the ‘ribeirinha’, the river bed, and fortunately dry, in entirely the wrong place. Eventually we manage to get back on track, but never with any great conviction. It’s a warm day and I am concerned to conserve our water rations.

Some of the confusion arises because there are 3 trails leading out of the village. We are attempting to follow PR8, which we take to be the Masmorra Trail featured in our guide book. Much of the route seems to be uphill, but the sky has cleared to that lovely blue again, with a nice cooling breeze. More uncertainty as the trails cross over each other, but upwards seems to be the right choice.

Not quite in despair, we are very relieved to spot, in the distance, a pair of ruined windmills. Thank heavens, we are still on course, and we know that the dolmens are close by. True to form, I almost pass them by.

“They’ll only be tiny” said the voice of reason. I hadn’t expected them to be huge, but I could quite easily have gone romping down the other side of the hill and missed them completely. Fortunately, one of us is paying attention. After all, how big does a burial chamber need to be? Somewhat irreverently I hop down inside, in hot pursuit of a dozing lizard. In seconds he is alert and shimmying off into a crevice.

The Masmorra ‘anta’, or burial chamber, is 3.20 metres in diameter and comprised of 9 vertically positioned slabs. The access would have been covered and was through a lower corridor, facing east and aligned to coincide with sunrise at the Summer Solstice. The coverings have disappeared but the slab for the chamber would have been very large. The ‘antas’ are always positioned on high ground, and often marking a territorial boundary. They helped to dissuade unwelcome visitors with their magical, religious aura.

The route back to Mealha was short, downhill and very straightforward, which had us wondering if we mightn’t have been better to tackle it the other way around. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. You might like to compare my account with that of Becky, who was there last year.

Did you realise that I was going to link this post to Paula? It’s perfect for Traces of the Past, isn’t it? Then we’ll have a swift look at Cachopo. The intention was to have a leisurely lunch and rest our weary feet. Palmeiras bar had the prettiest little vine covered garden, but no food. Trying her very best, the lovely lady behind the counter produced a dish of fresh monkey nuts to accompany our wine. Oh, well…

This walk is featured on page 104 in Walking Trails of the Algarve, should you decide to give it a go. If not you might prefer a little wander in the back streets of Cachopo. Now let’s get the kettle on, shall we?

Another bumper selection of wonderful walks this week. I know it takes time but do please find a moment to visit. So much effort goes into these walks and I’m very appreciative. If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. All are welcome.

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I know nothing about Williamsburg, but Jackie’s soon going to put that right!

Day 3, Williamsburg VA

Violet Sky has a real treat in store this week. Don’t miss this one!

Mums on parade

Jesh always has something a little different for you :

Nostalgic Walk

30 years of walking sounds fearful! Only joking, Geoff :

30 years on…#walking

Making the most of this lovely Autumn with Little Miss Traveler :

An autumn stroll around Burley-inWharfedale

And I have a lovely new contributor- welcome Woolly!

Jo’s-Monday-Walk

BiTi has more wonderful photos from Yosemite :

Yosemite National Park- between sunrise and sunset

And Jaspa trespasses on Jude territory. Understandably, he seems to like it!

Wheal Coates UNESCO Tin Mine, Cornwall

Tish Farrell is one of the most emotive writers I know, so it was a real pleasure to share a drowsy afternoon with her :

All Gold On All Hallows’ Eve in Bishop’s Castle

I love the west coast of the Algarve and I know you’ll enjoy seeing it with Jules. Please go and say hi!

Five days alone hiking the Fishermen’s Trail

Drake, meanwhile is in the very best of company, down on Mathew Street :

Let it be

I’m sure most of you know Andrew, but if you haven’t had the pleasure…

Greek Islands, Amorgos and a Walk Through History

Denzil has a few ideas for keeping the family entertained on your walks :

The Fun of Finding and Photographing Fungi

Kathryn takes us on ramble no. 20, California style :

Ewoldsen Trail

And Tobias bestows a little sparkle and shine this Monday morning :

Golden Hour

I can’t imagine anybody less idle than my lovely friend Meg. Here’s another treat from her :

An idle stroll

Fabulous, aren’t they? Thank you so much for your company, and I hope you all have a great week.

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha Delicada

I’m sharing another walk from the Walking Trails of the Algarve this week. You’ll find Rocha Delicada, or Elegant Rock, on page 30 of the guide. This is a bit of a walk on the wild side, but I think my bird watching friends will love it, and I loved the variety of the landscape.

It’s very easy to tootle past the exit on E125 for Mexilhoeira Grande railway station, where the walk begins. I know, because we did. Faded grandeur is too kind an expression to describe the station, reached along a bumpy track, but do persevere. It gets better.

That’s Mexilhoeira Grande, over the wall, but you won’t go anywhere near it. Instead you cross the railway tracks and follow the signs. It’s an 8km circular walk, following the edge of the salt marshes out to the estuary of the Ria de Alvor.

As usually happens, the dog barks ferociously, but wags his tail at the intruders. An equestrian centre is something of a surprise, as are the snails adorning the wayside shrubs. The ripe figs are no surprise at all. And then you’re out amid the salt marshes.

Did you spot my heron friend? He kept trying to give me the slip but I was persistent. I wasn’t so lucky with the red dragonflies, flitting always just beyond my focus. And then the landscape opens out in a broad sweep, right across to Praia de Alvor. It’s a mesmerising sight. All along the shore couples, families and solitary pickers spend back-breaking hours collecting shellfish.

Because it’s so flat you can see for miles. All the way back to Mexilhoeira Grande, and across the lagoon to the resort of Alvor. During the autumn and winter migrations there are large numbers of waders and passerines. I gather that raptors pass through, but I can’t claim to have spotted peregrine falcons, kestrels or little owls. My partner has much better eyesight. I make do with heron.

The shellfish seekers stay out until the tide rolls in. Far in the distance, my partner spots a sight that amuses him greatly. It’s very warm for October and a parasol flutters, providing just enough shade for the dog, while his owner works.

The walk is now heading directly towards Rocha Delicada and I wonder how steep it will be to climb. My attention is temporarily diverted by a flock of flamingos, initially just specks in the distance. I half expect them to fly away at my approach but I’m able to get quite close.

One adventurer steps out determinedly, in search of better foraging. After a slight hesitation, the others follow. I watch, fascinated.

I’m not on my own because a number of cars are parked at the back of the marshes, to observe the birds. As often happens, we could have driven to this point, but where would be the fun in that? I’m slightly relieved, though, to find that access to the Rocha itself is prohibited. The walk returns over gently undulating farmland, with the odd sympathetic ruin for company.

There’s still a little excitement en route. A small plane circles overhead, discharging paragliders as it goes. We pass the aerodrome on our way back to the E125. ‘Maybe next time?’ I ask. ‘No way’ says the husband. But think of the view!

I’m half tempted to take you into Alvor, across the estuary. There’s a wonderful boardwalk to enjoy, after you’ve had a bite to eat on the waterfront. That’s what we did, but perhaps I should save it for another day. If you go looking for it, the Mexilhoeira Grande station turn off is on the E125, between Portimao and Lagos.

Once again I’d like to say thanks for all the good wishes and kindness since Dad died. It’s slowly becoming real to me, but I’m lucky. I have so many happy memories.

There’s a bumper crop of walks for you this week. Please take time to read and share. As always you can join in if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Many thanks to all of you for taking part.

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Meg shares so much beauty in this post. You won’t be able to resist :

Poland- a land of folklore?

I really like Violet’s sculptures. Well, not hers personally… you’ll see what I mean :

Corydon Avenue

Chairlifts, mountains and marmots- another winner from Anabel :

Grand Teton National Park

I’ve seen many sunrises but I’d love to see one in Yosemite. Thanks, Biti!

Sunrise in Yosemite

I’m a sucker for a lovely garden, as Becky very well knows :

There are so many trails to explore

And while I’m down south, how about an outing with a Rusty Duck?

Blown Away At Boscastle

Geoff and Dog- the perfect partnership :

Woolwich to Grove Park#capitalring#walking

Kathryn takes the kids for a bit of a jaunt. Why not join her?

Winters, CA

How well do you know Wellington, NZ? Let Amanda show you some highlights :

Te Papa, Beach and Wind Walk

Drake knows Alsace pretty well. Such atmosphere in these wonderful ruins!

Left the door open

Adding a little drama and adventure to the walks, don’t miss Jill’s latest episode :

Night time jungle walk, Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve

And there’s always space here for Becky. This is a less well known bit of Lisbon :

Take a walk in the park

Still following Susan’s wanderings, but I’m a little behind :

Walking Helsinki, Finland

That’s it for now. Happy Halloween to you! Hoping you have a great week.

Jo’s Monday walk : Alternative Ayamonte

It seems strange to be blogging again. The even keel with which I was sailing seems slightly out of kilter. When I visited Ayamonte I had no idea that Dad was ill. With my usual exuberance I was seeking out a less well known aspect of this intensely Spanish town, visible from the Algarve across the River Guadiana. The ferry journey is part of the attraction for me, and I love to watch as the white houses draw nearer and we nose into the quay. An hour has slipped away on the 10 minute crossing, and a different culture awaits.

Maybe you remember A little side trip to Spain ? This time I had my eye fixed on the church at the upper level of the town, San Salvador. Looking back, the road bridge follows me into Spain. The shoreline leads past an enigmatic statue and a severely embattled boat hull.

Beyond the boatyard a network of noisily inhabited streets open out. The Spanish greet and call out to each other in a tongue more harsh than I’m used. I exchange shy smiles and try to remember that ‘thank you’ is not ‘obrigada’ in Spain.

Ayamonte has changed hands between Portugal and Spain a number of times in its history. The name is thought to come from the mound on which the settlement was built. The Romans knew it as Aya Montis (or Mount Aya). Beyond the modern apartments The Templo de San Francisco beams indulgently. Once it belonged to a Franciscan convent, founded in 1417.

The street is nothing if not colourful, and my eyes wander from rooftops to doorways and back again. I am particularly taken with a fully tiled jade green building, balconies gleaming with cool elegance. I anticipate plenty of customers for the fish restaurant.

Turning the corner the street narrows and starts to ascend. Still looking up and down, the random delight of spouting gargoyles, serpentine door knockers, a subtle school and the indisputably Spanish window grills. A senhora pours water down the gutter and languid chat ensues.

Halfway up the street I encounter the mystery of El Boqueron. A chapel and a huge well denote the place where an underground tunnel links the former castle at Ayamonte with the Portuguese town, Castro Marim, on the other side of the Guadiana river. The passage is about 300 metres long and runs from the area of the well on Calle Galdames. It is part of a sewerage network, channeling rainwater and domestic water from homes. A large trough ripples gently in the bright sunlight.

I knew nothing of El Boqueron in advance and, not being fluent in Spanish, it wasn’t until I returned home that I could unravel this mystery. Incredible to think of this structure, used as a hiding place in war time, beneath these tranquil streets.

Continuing upwards, finally I reach Plaza del Salvador. The magnificent pink-belfried church of San Salvador dominates the square. All is silent and the church closed, so I cannot verify the lovely Mudejar ceiling from 1400, nor climb to the belfry for the fine views.

Beyond the plaza the modern world intrudes, overlooked by the remnants of a fortress. I make my way back down towards the waterfront and make one final discovery, on Calle Marte. The bull ring, resolute in its presence, though I could never have persuaded myself to witness its spectacle.

In Ayamonte eventually everyone gravitates towards Plaza de la Laguna, and so do I. The restaurants surrounding the striking square hum with Spanish lunchtime chatter. In a quiet corner, children choose an after dinner treat from the sweet shop. The assistant solemnly awaits the outcome of this most important decision.

For me it’s time to return to Calle Muelle de Portugal for the ferry crossing back to Vila Real de S. Antonio. I hope you enjoyed my visit to Ayamonte. Further details can be found in this Ayamonte guide, and in the link to El Boqueron.

Thank you so much for your kindness and for the many messages of support I have received. Dad had a fine ‘send off’ and I’m doing my best to adjust to life without him. It’s what he would have wanted.

I’m back in business for walks this week so if you have any you’d like to share I’d be grateful. As usual details are to be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above. Meantime please enjoy these select few :

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Becky does find interesting subjects for her walks. Don’t miss this one!

Unexpected and fascinating art on Howland Street

And equally unexpected and interesting from Yvette. I almost missed this one!

Walk with Jo : Food and cast iron (SC Flea Market Part 2)

I passed by this place on a long ago trip to America. Let Elaine show you around :

Hearst Castle

‘Your money or your life?’ Nope- that was Dick Turpin, wasn’t it, Becky?

Waylaid by Captain Kidd on the Thames Path

Take care of yourselves. I hope to be out and about visiting you all soon.

Jo’s Monday walk : Saying goodbye

Aleksander Boleslaw Szustakiewicz

26.2.1928 – 2.10.2016

My heart is too heavy to walk with you today. Some of you will know that Dad died whilst I was in the Algarve. He had a long, and often-times happy life, and made many friends along the way. He was never happier than when surrounded by family, and it brought real joy to his life when he was reunited with those in his native Poland, after an absence of 64 years.

Tomorrow he will be surrounded by love as we say our goodbyes, remember and celebrate his life. He was a wonderful Dad, and was ever present in my life. The loss will be huge, but the connection to Poland will endure, as he would have wanted.

I know you will excuse me from commenting this week, but whilst I was away the walks continued to roll in. I would like you to share them in my absence. Many thanks in anticipation of your tolerance and kind thoughts. I will be back walking with you next week.

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Cathy’s been romping all over Iceland! This is just one of many. Enjoy!

North Iceland : The Black Lava Field & Solfataras of Leirhnjukur at Krafla

Meantime, Becky is edging eastwards with a whole lot of history :

Going east on the Thames Path

Not just the home of golf! Ask Elaine!

St. Andrews

Autumn as you don’t very often see it. Through Cardinal’s eyes :

Autumn Streets

Some day I must make it to Sicily. Pretty please! Lady Lee loves it :

Ancient theatre of Taormina

When Sue waxes lyrical you just have to sit up and pay attention!

Larch Trees in Canada- The Beauty Queens

Serious Sue (I’m differentiating 🙂 ) kindly lets me ride her mobility scooter at Wisley :

Signs of Autumn and a Sculpture Trail

Drake has found himself a jewel of a home in Alsace :

High five surroundings

And Biti, the most beautiful ‘shell’ house you’ll ever see :

Ballymaloe Cooking School- The Shell House

Debbie tells the story of Wojtek, the bear who went to war. If you were curious about him after my last post, here it is!

Soldier Bear

Geoff goes strutting his stuff around London :

Crystal Palace to Grove Park

Let Jaspa take you to another fabulous UNESCO World Heritage Site :

The Forts and Tunnels of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

I knew very little about Milwaukee till I read Jackie’s post :

Day 3- Milwaukee

Spicy chilli hot chocolate? Have some with Violet Sky :

St. Boniface and Gabrielle Roy

Navarra has such a nice sound to it. Leya would love to show you around :

Ziga, Baztan- Natural, Yet Sophisticated

Take care of each other.

Jo’s Monday walk : A Royal Odyssey

It was not a promising beginning! I stuck my head out of Edinburgh’s Waverley Station into damp and dreary grey skies. No-one gave the bedraggled looking ice cream vendor a second look. Still I was bubbling over with excitement at a precious few hours in this beautiful city and determined to make the best of it. Where better to start than The Royal Mile?

Approximately a mile long (surprise!), it rolls gently downhill from Edinburgh Castle to the gates of Holyrood Palace. Did you know that miles can vary in length? I was astounded to find that they can indeed, and that a Scots mile is longer than an English mile! No wonder my feet got tired in Edinburgh. The English statute mile was established by a Weights and Measures Act of Parliament, in 1593, during the reign of Elizabeth I. “A mile shall contain 8 Furlongs, every Furlong 40 Poles, and every Pole shall contain 16 Foot and a half”. For more clarity, read this link.

You will observe that Edinburgh has its share of ‘tourist tat’ interspersed with venerable historic buildings. There’s room for all. The Royal Mile is actually comprised of five consecutive streets- Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High St., Canongate and Abbey Strand. I joined High St. directly from North Bridge and was ambling down towards the Palace. Many closes and alleys invite further inspection, but I’m drawn towards the World’s End pub on the corner of St. Mary’s St., a former city boundary. After the English victory over the Scots, in 1513 at the Battle of Flodden, a city wall was built around Edinburgh. Parts of the Flodden Wall still exist in the pub foundations. Brass studs in the road mark the former position of the Netherbow Port, a gateway in the wall.

John Knox House stands on the opposite corner. The gateway was removed in 1764 to improve the flow of traffic where the road narrows. Beyond lies Canongate, literally ‘the canon’s way’, used by the Augustinian monks from Holyrood Palace. Until 1856 Canongate was not only a street, but the name of the surrounding burgh. It was separate from Edinburgh and outside of the Flodden Wall.

The damp persisted, but it didn’t stop my enjoyment of a totally unexpected city garden. I had stumbled upon Dunbar’s Close, complete with wonderfully cobwebby Scottish thistle. This 17th century garden was created by Sir Patrick Geddes, an eminent Scots biologist who was aware of the relationship between health and environment. It was restored to its current condition in 1978.

At the bottom of the Royal Mile there’s a choice between the modern and inspiring Scottish Parliament Building and historic Holyrood Palace. You know which I chose, but I neglected to allow you a little glimpse inside. I think you might enjoy this 2 minute video.

Suitably impressed, it was time to make my way back up the Royal Mile. This time I continued on to Lawnmarket, and the Mercat Cross on Parliament Square. Royal proclamations and the summoning of Parliament are traditionally announced here, and a bubble blower was having fun with the crowd. St. Giles Cathedral, on the opposite side of the square, dates from the 14th Century and is the High Kirk of Edinburgh .

The real piper, or a dummy at the traditional kilt store? I liked them both. I had reached the Bank of Scotland, in all its magnificence. Have you noticed that the clouds have lifted and at last the sky is blue? Curious about The Mound, I headed that way. Apparently it’s an artificial hill, built to fill in a loch that was part of ancient Edinburgh’s defence system.

I don’t know about you but I was getting tired and hungry. Up on The Mound, I found the perfect thing.

Haggis, neeps and tatties, of course. Now, I’m not going to take you too much further but my digs are at the far end of Princes St. I decided to walk through Princes St. Gardens. You’d like a quick look, wouldn’t you? The mist is just rising over the castle.

Did you spot the statue of Wojtek and the Bear? You probably don’t know the amazing story of the bear who went to war. A group of young Polish girls were taking his photo, but moved aside for me, with a giggle or two.

I’m going to say my farewells here. I checked into my accommodation, then did the Water of Leith walk that I shared last week. You can get back to our start point at Waverley Station by tram, if you’d like. I never did manage a tram ride in Edinburgh. Maybe next time?

Hope you enjoyed this walk. I’m going to be putting my feet up for a week or two, but first I have some wonderful shares. Thank you so much to everybody for your enthusiasm and support. My apologies that I won’t be able to share for a while, so please do make the most of the following :

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I cover a decent few miles, and so does my good friend Becky. But sl-ow-ly!

Strolling along the Thames Path- part one!

‘Leaving on a jet plane, don’t know when I’ll be back again..’ Or boat, in Drake’s case :

Leaving through backdoor

Them boots are made for… Cardinal!

Hiking Boots

I hope Lady Lee has good boots too!

Hiking in Tenerife

It’s many a long year since I was in lovely Inverary. Let Anabel show you around :

Inverary and Auchindrain

Islands around Toronto are always a novelty. Go hopping with Jackie!

Island hopping

And look at local murals with Trav Trails :

City Walks

What would you expect to see in Bern, Switzerland? Let Laia show you the sights :

Bern : music, roses and … bears?

Making me yearn for the Algarve, Miriam fills my senses with salt spray :

Walking Cape Schank

Some of you will know Kathe from Six word Saturday. She’s sampling a little Scots whisky on this walk :

Yesterday’s short walk to Muir of Ord’s Distillery

And Liesbet is keeping us fit with a bit of rock scrambling :

WW- Gorham Mountain Train in Acadia NP, Maine

But there’s a gentler way too :

The Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park, ME

Susan has made it to the Baltic, and found a parade and some idyllic shops :

Walking Stockholm, Sweden

Or how about a crazy but beautiful Art Party, with Kathrin?

Anne & Mark’s Art Party 2016

Get those trumpets ready to sound the fanfare! Here comes Badfish :

Strolling Through Prague : One fine day- Part 1

There won’t be another Monday walk until 17th October. Sounds ages away, doesn’t it? I’ll try to keep in touch but I don’t have WiFi in the Algarve. It’s wonderful just to switch off from social media and indulge in friends and places. I’ll miss you, so please take care of yourselves while I’m gone.

Jo’s Monday walk : Water of Leith, Edinburgh

I do find Edinburgh an entrancing city, and one that has so many aspects! I hopped off the train at Waverley Station into dire Scots weather, determined to make the most of my two days. Holyrood Palace was on my list, and I reveled in all of its history. A proposed hike up Arthur’s Seat was doomed by the veil of mist, but I still had another card up my sleeve. There’s something mysterious sounding about the Water of Leith, and I was all set to unravel the mystery.

“A silver thread in a ribbon of green”. How inviting that sounds. The Water of Leith Walkway extends for 12 and a half miles, the river rising in the Pentland Hills, and flowing out to sea at the Port of Leith. I intended to walk only part of its length, as my accommodation was close to an access point at Dean Bridge. Designed by Thomas Telford and built in 1832, the bridge loftily spans a gorge, en route for South Queensferry. I could see the pathway, winding beneath the bridge, but no obvious way down there, as private gardens border the river. I had to backtrack, down through Dean Village, only to find that section closed due to subsidence.

Dean Village is the site of Lindsay’s Mill, one of eleven water-powered mills that rumbled through this valley in the 17th century. The weir held back the flow of water to drive the mills. Nowadays the area has been converted to smart modern homes but reminders of the past are everywhere, if you look. Bell’s Brae was a granary, built in 1675. I left the dog having his splash in the water and climbed back up to the bridge. When a nice old gentleman pointed me in the direction of Stockbridge, I set off to rejoin the walkway.

I love the feeling of being in the countryside, in the middle of the city, and it wasn’t long before I’d edged away from smart Stockbridge and its stylish waterside homes. Arboretum Avenue hints strongly at the Botanic Gardens, not too far away. The path dodges and weaves from one river bank to another, and I’m pleased to spot a reassuring sign. Still on track!

There are bridges aplenty and I’m rather glad I’d printed off details of the walk, or I’d never be sure when to cross over. The terraced houses are the Stockbridge Colonies, originally built by a cooperative to provide low cost housing for mill workers. At Canonmills I again leave the river, to cross a busy street and yet another bridge. My attention is caught by a young man, whose eyes are fixed on the river. Following his gaze I’m thrilled to see a large heron, unperturbed by the presence of humans.

Flood gates control this stretch of river, a warning that things are not always so tranquil. Ducks peck and glide. A parkland opens up before me and, around the corner, a lovely surprise. A fast flowing weir is home to a pair of swans who preen for my delectation.

Ahead lies a quirky section, where I pass through an industrial estate with a sense of humour. I know that I’m not too far from Leith, where I hope to relax and enjoy the evening sunshine. This walk has been full of surprises.

Just one last bridge to go and I’ve reached the Shore of Leith. A place full of history, it started life as a medieval settlement and merged with the city of Edinburgh in 1920. The port is still a commercial enterprise but old Leith has a wealth of charm.

In the quiet of late afternoon I read the displays telling me that Leith was once bustling with activity as tall masted ships unloaded their cargoes. Fish, coal, grain and hides were exported to northern Europe and the Med, in return for wine, fruit, spices and cloth. As ships grew too large for this shallow river mouth, the harbour was moved north. New life has been breathed into old bones and the result is a pleasing melange.

Let’s sit a while with Sandy, with his gently smiling face, before we take a closer look at the Royal Navy War Memorial. The details are on a display board in the square facing the water. Calm reigns supreme under Sandy’s benign gaze.

So many facts, I can’t begin to reproduce them all, but if you delve into this Wikipedia link I’m sure you’ll find something of interest. I didn’t have time to walk as far as the Royal Yacht Britannia, the Queen’s former floating home, now docked at Ocean Terminal. Reason to come back one day?

A fascinating place, I think you’ll agree? I didn’t intend for this post to be so long, so my apologies if I don’t offer you haggis, neeps and tatties. Just take my word for it- they were delicious. Kettle on time, at last!

Thank you so much for your indulgence and your generous support. Again I have some wonderful walks to share and it’s all thanks to you. If you’d like to join in at all, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or click on my logo above. You’ll be very welcome.

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Always charming, often funny and never boring. It has to be Drake, doesn’t it?

Speedy walk on water

I’ll never be able to produce jaw-dropping photography like Cardinal’s, but I can admire :

A Walk Through Praha- Part 2

I cannot resist sharing Meg. She finds such pleasure in the small things in life :

Walking Warsaw with a friend

And rather more seriously, some Polish history :

A walking tour of Jewish Warsaw

BiTi’s here again, with some great photos. Shame I’m no cook!

Ballymaloe Cooking School Gardens

Remember Smidge? I stepped back into her territory last week so I thought I’d give her a shout :

I heart North Berwick

And for those of you who don’t know, lucky Sue lives on Samos in Greece :

The house with the pink shutters- The Potter, Samos Island

You know that game, ‘Where’s Wally?’ I’m playing ‘Where’s Susan?’ :

Walking Oslo, Norway

Kathrin takes us down Memory Lane to an area of Cologne in Germany :

My weekly ramble

Delighted to welcome Amanda to my walks. Make sure you don’t miss this one!

Hanging Around in Helsinki – Part II

That’s it for another week! Perhaps now is a good time to tell you that I have one more walk for you next week and then I’ll be taking a 2 week break in the Algarve. Poor me! If you’d like to join me next week get those walks in soon. Have a happy one!

Jo’s Monday walk : Rosedale, sheep and heather

The North York Moors are all about the sheep! They have a very important role to play in managing these moors. In late summer, plum and purple swathes of heather swaddle the moorland. Cocooned in this bounty, red grouse nest, feeding their young on juicy shoots of heather. For centuries sheep grazing has been the traditional way of keeping the heather short and encouraging new growth. Without the heather, highly invasive bracken would take over, destroying the habitat.

I love the wildness of the Moors and can’t get enough of them in their rose-hued mantle. The weather up there has a mind of its own, and I was a little disappointed to leave sunshine at home and descend into Rosedale in gloom. Nothing for it but to hope that the rain kept off.

The calves were feeling frisky, the field of sweetcorn swayed in the breeze, and at the camp site someone had the kettle ready. As luck would have it, the wind eventually swept away the clouds, but you can never be quite sure.

The walk starts beside Sycamore Farm, just before the village of Rosedale Abbey. A track leads downhill and over a stream. Crossing a field, Blakey Ridge looms ahead. Don’t worry! I don’t expect you to climb to the heights. Instead, turn right to follow a lane through the tiny hamlet of Thorgill.

Suddenly the sun peeps out, and what could be more tempting than this flight of steps? My husband shakes his head. The sign says Farndale, and that means up and over the top. I can’t resist just a quick look at the tumble of cottages. And a plum tree, alone in a field.

Over the top? Maybe another day. For now it’s gently upwards through Rosedale’s peaceful valley. And look how blue the sky has become!

Looking over the drystone wall, I spotted some Rosebay Willowherb. A fancy name for a wildflower. You probably don’t remember but there was a big clump of it in my last walk. Badfish asked me jokingly if you could smoke it. His latest post reveals a much more serious side. Don’t miss it!

Such a rural landscape and yet there are still traces of an industrial past. If you look into the distance you can see the dramatic remains of the East Mines, and the colour of the water in the River Seven might give you a clue what was mined there.

Rosedale East Mines opened in 1865. Visible today are the remains of the calcining kilns, where ironstone was roasted to eliminate impurities and reduce its weight. The iron ore was taken by rail from Rosedale over the moorland to Ingleby, where it was lowered down the northern edge of the moors by tramway on the 1-in-5 gradient Ingleby Incline. It would have been anything but peaceful as up to 15 wagons at a time were steam hauled around the top of the valley.

It was brutally hard work in the mines. It has been described as a ‘regular slaughter place’ where ‘both men and horses are getting killed and lamed every day’. Despite this the mines continued in operation until the General Strike of 1926.

These days the silence is only broken by birdsong, cows lowing and the occasional growl of a tractor. The farm with an idyllic view had a runaway mother hen as I passed by. She clucked anxiously back and forth, trying to chivvy her offspring back through the fence. I watched at a discreet distance till I was sure all were safe, before heading past the former miner’s cottages and back to my start point.

The village of Rosedale Abbey is barely a mile down the road. It was named for a Cistercian Priory, founded in 1158, of which only a fragment remains today. The main attraction is the village green, and a choice of two cafes or a pub. I can highly recommend Graze on the Green. One of the best scones I’ve ever eaten. (and you know I’ve had my share!)

Nutrition accomplished, it’s time to go and seek out some of that glorious heather. The road back across the moors dips and twirls, offering up breathtaking views as you crest Blakey Ridge. ‘Pull in, pull in!’ I admonished the partner, careless of what might be behind us on the narrow road.

Some of you know what happens next. The edges of the moors road have a little ditch where the rain drains off. Out I leapt and straight into a ditch, with a sickening jar to my ankle. Why do these things happen to me? Careless, that’s why! It was some minutes before I could take the desired photos, but here they are. The sheep never even blinked.

I’m still a bit of a hop-along but I’m getting there. So glad you could join me. The Rosedale Abbey website offers a wealth of helpful details, and I even noted a ‘Tea Shop walk’. Sound promising?

Huge thanks to everybody for offering up your walks to share, and for ambling along on mine. I love your company. If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo. Settle in now for a good read!

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Inspiration must surely be Drake’s middle name :

Whence inspiration arises

Food, fun and frolics in Canada, with Jackie :

Let’s Go to The EX!

If you’re still hungry, head on over to Violet’s place :

Ribfest

Nothing I like more than a touch of Capability Brown! And fuzzy sheep! Thanks, Elaine :

Charlecote Park

A lovely old house and a sculpture trail sounds good to me. BiTi will show you round :

Ballymaloe House- Part 1

A Yorkshireman in NZ has found a place that looks like home. Please go and say hi?

Pineapple Track, Dunedin

My favourite early riser takes us for a twirl by the Wisła. Thanks, Meg. You’re always a joy to accompany :

Vignettes from a morning walk, 8

Random, but comprehensive! That’s Prague through Cardinal’s lens :

A Walk Through Praha

From Italy next I’d like to introduce Discovermarche, with a fun walk :

Li Vurgacci : among waterfalls and rock monsters

And if you’ve always wondered about the German capital, take a trip with Kathrin :

Berlin, I love you!

That’s it for another week. I’m hoping to post on Thursday but I might be a bit slow with my comments. I’ll be in Edinburgh, waiting to meet up with the delectable Jude. Take care till then!

Jo’s Monday walk : South Shields to Souter

Many of you seemed to enjoy my visit to the Tall Ships Regatta at Blyth last week, so I decided to stay on this same coastline for today’s walk. South Shields is just a little way down the coast, and if you look closely at the photo above you might just make out a Tall Ship on the horizon.

I’ve brought her a little closer! She was just hovering offshore, admiring the view.

As you can see it’s a rugged coastline, but the Blue Flag beach at South Shields is superb. We’ll start our walk from the car park behind the beach, along the new promenade. In the distance Tynemouth Priory is just visible, across the river mouth.

Walking south, in the direction of Souter Lighthouse, the sand is lovely and firm beneath my feet. At the end of the beach a path leads up to The Leas, and from there it’s 2.5 miles of coastal footpath to Souter Lighthouse.

I’m not going to talk much today. I’ll simply let you enjoy the humps and bumps of scenery. It’s a sight that always fills me with awe.

I was astounded when reading the information board in Frenchman’s Bay. I knew, of course, that this area was once popular with smugglers. What I didn’t realise was just how much coastal erosion had changed the landscape, and the timescale involved. This bay was once sandy and wooden steps led down to the beach. Long, long before that, these rocks were formed- 245 million years ago, when South Shields lay close to the Equator.

In the far distance I can make out Souter Lighthouse and Marsden Rock. The Rock is a 30 metre high sea stack of magnesium limestone and periclase. These days it’s only home to seabirds, though once it was joined to the land. At this point I turn back. I’ve visited Souter Lighthouse before, as the link will show, and I have a different goal in mind today.

I’m heading back towards the River Tyne and South Shields, and the mighty pier that stretches 1,570 metres out to sea. I keep an eye on the Tall Ship, out at sea, and am delighted to find that my arrival coincides nicely with hers. Tynemouth Priory, on the far shore, is beautiful in close up.

South Pier is an astonishing length and I’m entranced by the railway lines that once ran along it. I would love to bombard you with statistics and information but I’m finding myself sadly short of time. South Shields has a fascinating history and the Wikipedia link will give you all the facts you need.

It was a lovely day and we wandered into South Marine park, licking an icecream. The boating lake and miniature steam train were busy, and I was pleased to see Shields thriving. I know you’ll be gasping for a cuppa, and I can only apologise that this post is picture heavy, and not as factual as I would like.

Thank you so much for the many and varied contributions I’ve received to my walks this week. I struggle sometimes to keep up, but it’s always a joy to share with you. Please join me, if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.

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Paula always knows how to make me happy :

Hell’s Mouth – Not so Hellish

Lady Lee knows a good-looking city when she sees one. She’s lived in this one for 27 years!

A Day in Munich

Jackie does us proud this week with some fabulous murals :

Islington Village of Murals

And Cardinal treats us to the sight of his ass- suitably clothed, of course!

The Majestic Jotunheimen

Kathrin has heaps of sea glass to share, but you musn’t take it away from the beach :

Glass Beach, Fort Bragg

Check out what Liesbet gets up to mid-week? Lovely sunsets and sideways houses!

Feeling the Bern in Burlington, VT- a Mid-week “Weekend Away”

Fancy a bit of teeter-tottering with Violet? You’ve come to the right place!

Heritage Village

Drake has us stepping back into the past too. Always with a smile :

Just around my corner

Stained glass fans? Step right this way! BiTi has some beauties :

La Couvertoirade Village

Spectacular walking with Cathy this week. 16,453 steps in total, but you do get to stop for lunch!

Iceland’s Golden Circle : Gulfoss and Geysir

Yvette is content to share the simple wonders of the beach. Timeless images and wiggly ones!

Simple Things at the Beach

Susan gives a very personal take on her impressions of Berlin :

Walking Berlin, Germany

I simply had to steal this one away from Meg! I know this palace, but had no idea of its splendours :

Palace on the island

And I know that Meg will approve Susan’s architectural details too :

Art in the details : Looking up in the Financial District

That’s it folks! Hope you enjoyed it, and that you have a happy week ahead. See you soon!

Jo’s Monday walk : Tall Ships Regatta at Blyth

You might know that I couldn’t stay away from a Tall Ships return to the north east of England. I spent 4 happy days admiring them when the race came to Hartlepool in 2010. This time it was the turn of Blyth, on the Northumberland coast. I didn’t think you’d object to coming along and having a look over my shoulder. I can promise you a little fun, and a pirate or two.

Although it’s only 50 miles north of me, and the birthplace of my late Aunt Isa, I have seldom visited Blyth. I was surprised at the amount of information it generates in Wikipedia. The name Blyth comes from the river of that name which flows through the town, blithe being an old English adjective meaning ‘merry’ or ‘gentle’. Isa would have liked that. Back in her day the town thrived on the industries of coal mining and shipbuilding. During the First and Second World Wars the local shipyards built many ships for the Royal Navy. Among them, the first aircraft carrier, HMS Ark Royal, in 1914. Like many another, the town has struggled to reinvent itself for the changing times. A visit from the Tall Ships is a real coup.

What a thing of beauty they are! I knew my Dad would be bursting with pride at the Polish representatives. Dar Młodzieży, The Gift of Youth, is a Polish sail training ship and the largest of the ships present. It made me smile that comparatively tiny Fryderyk Chopin is the youngest of the Polish Tall Ships. Let’s stroll along the Quayside and take a closer look.

The British contingent was headed up by Lord Nelson, the flagship for the Jubilee Sailing Trust. Their mission is to promote the integration of people with disabilities, enabling them to meet the challenge of sailing tall ships on the open seas. Quite a formidable challenge it seemed to me, as I looked up at all the ropes and pulleys.

Next in line I found Oosterschelde, the last remaining representative of a large fleet of schooners that sailed under the Dutch flag in the early 20th century. The name comes from the eastern part of the River Schelde, which flows through Belgium and the Netherlands on its way to the sea.

Now I realise that not all of you share my fascination with ships. Let me just introduce you to a pirate ship and then your attention can wander. The Shtandart is a replica of the 1703 frigate built by Peter the Great, in St. Petersburg, Russia. You can imagine the excitement that this one generates, with its swashbuckling appearance. I think it had the longest queues for boarding. And where there’s a pirate ship… “arr, Jim lad!”

In addition to the amazing vessels themselves, every effort has been made to beguile and entertain. There are fairgrounds, trading stalls, and a grand stage. An invitation to observe the activities of Port of Tyne includes a wind hub and renewable energies centre, looking to the future. A band marches smartly past, and I cease the opportunity to ‘guess the number of Lego bricks’. A minibreak to Amsterdam surely has my name on it!

Strolling on into Ridley Park, I’m glad to see that the children have not been neglected. Magicians perform their tricks, eliciting broad smiles from the parents and the usual serious attention of the youngsters. I applaud the dexterity, and cheer along with the crowd.

But it’s impossible to ignore the presence of the great ladies. Their masts loom on the waterfront and the crowd sways toward them. Some of the ships are open to the public for a few hours each day. The Polish ships and Lord Nelson have already closed but I still have one option.

My Dutch friend comes with a bonus. Tethered just behind her is the clipper Morgenster. When I have looked my fill I can clamber over into the smaller ship. I’m helped aboard by a smiling crew, and just look at this little beauty!

See what I mean about all those ropes and pulleys? Morgenster has an interesting history. She started life in 1919 as a herring lugger named Vrouw Maria. In 1927 she was motorised and given her current name. She worked as a fishing boat until 1970, when she was sold and used for sport fishing day trips. Certification problems led to her being sold again, this time to a Rotterdam singer, who apparently wanted to use her for ether piracy. Prosecution was unsuccessful but the ship was allowed to degenerate into a terrible condition. Happily she was bought in 1983 and lovingly restored. It would not be until 2008 that she made her way back to sea. The life of a boat! Many such facts are found in the event guide.

Nothing more to do now than absorb the atmosphere of so many people having a good time. At the main stage the Irish Dance music has toes tapping. Mine too! It was a reluctant farewell from me.

I hope you didn’t mind my little bit of self indulgence. The event guide has full details, just in case you can make it in time for the Parade of Sail this afternoon. Torrential rain caused car park difficulties on Sunday but the skies are clear again today. A cuppa now, I think!

Many thanks to all of you who read and encourage me each week, not to mention those who walk with me. As always I have some great walks to share. If you’d like to join me at any time, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. You’ll be very welcome. Just click on the logo above.

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Starting with a bit more of Toronto from Jackie this week. Quite a big bit, in fact!

High Park

Walking with tigers could be dangerous! You’d better stay on the bus :

Periyar Tiger Reserve

Violet Sky has some quirky carvings for you this week. You’ll like them!

Carvings

Kathrin has a beautiful time spotting elks, and admiring ferns :

Fern Canyon, Humboldt County

This city has been waiting for me eternally! I’ll get there one day, Biti!

Rome again

The rough with the smooth with Drake this week, and some superb shots :

Quiet flows the River Rhine

A perilously placed chateau caught my eye, over at Denzil’s place :

Modave: A Chateau and a Country Walk

Not so far away, Susan check’s out Amsterdam’s rival. A good-looking city!

Walking Rotterdam, The Netherlands

Make time for a canalside stroll with Adam and Harriet? I’ve done some of this one :

Kennet and Avon Canal – Bath to Bradford-on-Avon

And Becky just barely scraped in! I haven’t even had time to read it yet!

Returning to Wells for an ecclesiastical stroll

Wishing you all a very happy week, and if you can make it to Blyth today I can highly recommend it. Take care till next time!

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Aydon Castle

Jo’s Monday walk : The Masmorra Trail

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha Delicada

Jo’s Monday walk : Alternative Ayamonte

Jo’s Monday walk : Saying goodbye

Jo’s Monday walk : A Royal Odyssey

Jo’s Monday walk : Water of Leith, Edinburgh

Jo’s Monday walk : Rosedale, sheep and heather

Jo’s Monday walk : South Shields to Souter

Jo’s Monday walk : Tall Ships Regatta at Blyth

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