Jo’s Monday walk : The end of the world

What would you expect to find at the End of the World?  Certainly not a gift shop selling exceptional marine sculptures!  But I was very taken with ‘Nemo’ and his friends, even though I’d come all this way to admire a lighthouse and gaze out in the direction of the Americas.  Cabo de Sáo Vicente lies at the south westernmost tip of Portugal, and indeed of Europe, just 6 km around the coast from Sagres.  It’s a spectacular location, the cliffs rising almost vertically from the Atlantic to a height of 75 metres.

Peer hard at the clifftops and you might observe some tiny humans, just to give you some idea of scale.  Not being especially nimble of foot, I usually remain behind the camera on these occasions.  Opening time is at 10.00 and fortunately this seems to coincide with the time at which the sea fog starts to roll back, revealing the stacks in all their beauty.

As you round the bay approaching the lighthouse, your eye is snagged by the Fortaleza de Beliche.  I never can resist a good fortress, and as we were a little early for the lighthouse it made sense to go there first, though not quite sure what we’d find.

More enticing views, and a rugged path down the cliff, but my right flipflop chose this moment to part company with its sole.  Obviously a warning!  Running repairs meant that I could at least slow shuffle as far as the lighthouse.  Still, a 16th century fortress, once under attack by Sir Francis Drake, no less, was a welcome addition to my walk.  Access to the chapel is no longer possible as the site was closed due to erosion in the 1990s.  Seabirds glide around the cliffs and dolphins frolic in the water below.  Here, nature reigns supreme.

The promontory of Cape St. Vincent (Cabo de Sáo Vicente) was regarded as sacred ground as far back as neolithic times.  The Ancient Greeks dedicated a temple here to Heracles, and of course, the Romans were here too.  Naval battles aplenty were fought offshore, but it’s easy to imagine this tranquil place as having magical qualities.  The setting sun hissing into the ocean was once thought to mark the edge of the known world.

The present lighthouse is 24 metres high and was built in 1846 over the ruins of a 16th century Franciscan convent.  It guards one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, and is among the most powerful lighthouses in Europe.  Much later we could see it from our hotel in Sagres, as dusk fell.  But it’s time for a much needed coffee stop, a little more artwork and some great entertainment, watching people clamber onto the giant chair for a photo opportunity.  And yes, the coffee and pastries were extortionate, but they were awfully nice.

When we left there was a whole array of takeaway coffee and burger vans setting up in the parking space outside.  Understandable, but, as there was no admission charge on the lighthouse, I didn’t begrudge spending a little in the coffee shop.  If they’d sold flipflops in the gift shop I’d have bought those too.  My one disappointment was not to be able to ascend the lighthouse.

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Sagres was an interesting experience and I loved the sea breezes, but I’m keeping posts minimal for now.  Many thanks for your continued support.  Life remains hot, and busy.  Apologies if I’ve missed anybody from the following round up.  Enjoy!

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Let Drake take you on a voyage of discovery :

Another day in paradise

When waiting turn idyllic

Slow walk

Carol shares the beauty of her native Australia :

A Walk to Remember

Up, Down, Up

And Rupali always shares the gift of love :

Weekend 99: To heal

Midsummer seems so long ago, but you’ll enjoy this offering from Ulli :

Prehistoric Midsummer at Woodhenge

Who doesn’t love poppies?  Margaret’s an early riser :

It’s Worth Going Walking Quite Early…

Janet’s away on holiday, but she left this treasure before departing :

Monday walk… castle walk

And it’s a while since Sandra wrote this.  The blackberries may be ripe now!

Same place, different week

Eunice walks most weekends, in a lovely area, so if you visit her you’ll be spoiled for choice :

Heysham – a walk in three parts

Brinscall to White Coppice walk

I don’t know if you know Aiva, but she does some fabulous walks in Ireland :

A fantastic Walk of the Weekend : the Killaspugbrone Loop Walk in Sligo

And finally, out and about again, Cathy takes us on an irresistible tour of street art :

A mural walk in Washington on a hot July day

Wherever you are, I hope that life is treating you kindly.  It certainly has its ups and downs.

 

160 comments

  4. I’ve been here 😁 pre-digital unfortunately and on a coach trip from our hotel in Carvoeiro. I love visiting lighthouses at the end of a country/continent. Done Africa and Australia too. Both pretty remote places.

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    1. It was a much better experience than the coach visit with Lisa and Leo all those years ago, Jude. Perfect in early morning, with few people and occasional dolphins 🤗💕

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      1. It’s always better on your own time, but I’m not confident driving on the continent. Our coach trip was pretty good. And back in 2002 it wasn’t busy.

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  5. The views are amazing! What a shame you weren’t able to go up the lighthouse – did the pastries make up for it? I’m not surprised that there was a gift shop at The End of the World – there’s one at Land’s End and I’m pretty sure there’s one at John O’Groats too! 😀

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  6. It’s very hot here today as well, in fact, too hot for me to be out walking so I’m inside but with the patio doors open to the sunshine. Later on I’ll go out for a short stroll through the streets, I don’t yet trust the buses, so I’m quite limited in my walks. Lovely post as usual, and it brought back memories of the times we used to drive through France and Spain to get to Portugal and the special time we stayed at the Pousada at Sagres – the only place within miles in which to stay. It was my first taste of real luxury I think, an incredible room with bedroom up a few steps from a sitting-room and room-service came on one of those roll-in tables that I’d only previously seen in American films. I can’t recall an awful lot more about the place except the luxury, but this was in the early sixties and there wasn’t a lot of luxury around anywhere unless one was very rich. So Sagres has my vote as a milestone in my life. Come to think of it, I do remember the wild ocean! And like you, I learned the hard way never to go for a walk in flip-flops so now it’s trainers even if the weather is hot. Anyway, thanks for that post, I needed cheering up today.

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    1. Our accommodation was cheap as chips with no hint of luxury, Mari, but we had ocean breezes and a lovely pool to relax beside. It worked for us 😊💕💕

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  8. I love old buildings/castles, Jo. I would love to be able to touch them and ‘see’ some of the things they’ve seen. Bit tricky though, as I can’t do that!
    Sorry to hear about your flipflop, and the subsequent lack thereof in the shop… they missed out on a sale there!
    I enjoyed your walk. Have a great Monday! 🙂

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  10. Forgot to comment on your post- such historic steps you walked. Darn at the busted flip flop. There is nothing much to can do about it in the midst of a walk. Do you think they will open the chapel area again?

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  13. I learned several years ago not to go walking in flip flop-type sandals 🙂 although I wouldn’t have passed up the chance to go up that lighthouse. I’d have gone barefoot if necessary 🙂 Great views and I like the seahorse sculpture, it looks cute. Thanks for the links by the way, unexpected but much appreciated 🙂

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  17. Have you also been also to the beach just in proximity a little bit to the North where all the surfers gather? Rather tough because the waves there are really rough and powerful – impressive unforgettable ocean feeling. Have a nice day 🙂

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    1. Amado, you mean? Yes, it’s fabulous, but there were so many cars arriving to watch the sunset that we didn’t linger. There are some beautiful spots all along that coast. 🙂 🙂

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      1. In October 2018 there were not so many, but still a lot people for sunset watching. There was still a parking place on the road down to Amado beach, but not really many opportunities to be honest. 🙂

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    1. Mick had never been to the lighthouse, though I was there many years ago with my daughter. It made a nice relaxed outing and the fortress was a bonus. I missed that last time because we were on a coach trip 🙂 🙂

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    1. He would love the compass rose in Sagres, Becky. I have to say the place benefited from being there early. It started to get hot and busy as we left, even in present circumstances. 😦

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    1. It’s a good question, Margaret. We were having a ‘chilled’ morning as we’d made a more strenuous effort the day before, in 30C. 🙂 🙂 I posted this rather than the longer one to preserve photo space on the laptop.

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