Jo’s Monday walk : Beyond the River

‘Why Tavira?’ is a question I’m asked all the time when I talk about the place where I live.  Although I love the peace of the Algarve countryside, I could never willingly live in a little hillside cottage.  I would forever be gazing at the horizon, imagining the lap of the waves at my feet and the sound of the ocean in my ears.  Here in Tavira the river brings the sea to me, and it’s one of my greatest pleasures to board a ferry and ride out there to meet it.  This week the town ferry reopened.  There was no queue at the kiosk, nor in fact any other passengers aboard than me and my husband.  And a crew of five, some of whom were youngsters, learning the trade.  Prosperity will come again, and they need to be prepared.  For now, the instructions are to wear a mask on all forms of public transport, and so, bizarre though it felt on the open deck of a boat, we did.

We pulled out of the quayside, where the work of building a new bridge continues apace, and soon were chugging out through the marshes.  Lilac heather lines the riverbank, but my gaze was directed far beyond, counting the flamingos.  The day was full of billowing clouds, which could have explained the emptiness of the ferry.   After all these years, still I find the views from the landing stage compelling.

We followed the path across the Ilha towards the beach.  The main seafood restaurant was being industriously cleaned and rearranged, in readiness for hoped for customers.  The adjacent campsite is to remain closed this summer, and the object of our affections, The Sunshine Bar, had yet to open, but the recycled fish at O Xiri has a new lease of life.

With no particular objective in mind, we set off along the deserted beach, walking into a boisterous breeze.  As we paused to regain our breath, a tiny figure appeared on the horizon.  We watched as the quad bike drew near, and then passed us by.  The maritime police with a pleasant occupation.  Nothing but a few gulls to keep us company.  In vain I tried to capture them in flight.  Better to focus on the jewellery of the beach!

We had reached the area known as Terra Estreita.  Another ferry and a boardwalk connects this beach with Santa Luzia on the mainland.  Beach umbrellas in residence, but not a soul to be seen.  Just the tyre tracks of the young policeman.

Turn back, or carry on?  The legs were starting to feel a bit leaden in the soft sand, but we knew that the Beach Bar at Barril was open.  A fair incentive for another half hour or so’s walking.  Maybe even cake?

The clouds were starting to amass and the wind to bluster, but I was intrigued by the clumps of greenery and plants I had never before seen growing on this beach.  Nature rearranging herself in the absence of humans.  We had already noticed that the shoreline was different in places.  The action of wind and waves.  Soon I was in the mesmerising presence of the anchors at Barril.

I defy anyone to walk past without taking at least one or two photos of them.  Possibly after refreshments.  The sky was miraculously clearing again by the time we were ready to return, and the wind gentling us along from behind.  More found treasure!

Finally the lighthouse at the river mouth came into view.  It’s not a bad life being a beach attendant right now.

Almost ready to board, but I can’t leave you without a bit of biscuit cake, can I?  A treat, because it’s been a sobering week, in many ways.

walking logo

Janet led the way, last week, in being too upset to walk.  Many of us knew just how she felt :

Today I can’t walk

But Margaret will cheer you up :

A Tale of Three Birds: Chapter Two- The Curlew

And Anabel has beautiful rock formations in Berwickshire :

Cove to Siccar Point

Trees, sky, tiny flowers… just a few of the things in Susan’s new world :

Walking around a lockdown

Drake demonstrates how beautiful green can be :

Most of all greenish

While Rita celebrates the blossom trees in Toronto :

Feeling high at High Park

Doesn’t matter what day it is, Rupali can find beauty :

Wordless Wednesday Walk 3

And Sheetal can get excited about Florence :

Date with David

Irene contents herself with the simple things in life :

Along the Trail

I’ve never hiked Dartmouth… but I’d like to.  Please meet Zara!

Dartmoor Hiking Trails: Princetown to Fox Tor

So far I’ve been documenting and diarying my life here in the Algarve, in this exceptional period.  I think you can see, it’s a beautiful place.  I don’t intend to stick to a schedule from now on, so if you share a walk with me I’ll be delighted, but I can’t be sure when I’ll share it here.  Wishing you all a peaceful and healthy transition to a better world.  It’s ours to make the best of, isn’t it?  Stay safe!  And eat cake?

111 comments

  1. Interesting points on Tavira versus the Algarve countryside. Likely a surreal experience to be the only passengers on board. You remind me how we went for our first fish and chips meal on our Fisherman’s Wharf last Sunday. First time in about 4 months. Always a treat. Exceptional photos and somewhat eerie with no one around. Yes, “sobering week.” (Week(s) Thank you for sharing and take care, Jo.

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  2. Lovely to read your post. We have visited Portugal and Tavira quite a few times. We actually had to cancel our trip to Tavira in May so reading about your walk made me picture the town and its beaches. We’re looking forward to returning when we can. Your description of an early southern summer has helped as today we have rain and mist here in Scotland!

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    1. Sorry! My son was meant to come the last week in May and it was glorious. Hoping now that he can come next month and it’s not too hot. It was Portugal Day on Wednesday so the town has been quite lively but mostly Portuguese coming south for the holiday. Hard to know what to do for the best, isn’t it? Wish you well 🤗💕

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    1. No, we walked. I did suggest that we could walk back via Santa Luzia and the marshes but Mick had paid ferry both ways. He’s funny like that. Not mean with tipping and things but he likes value for money. It was fine actually because the tide had turned so we had more smooth sand. 😘💕💕

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  4. Pingback: Daily Walk – mazeepuran (माझे e-पुराण)

  5. You got me glued with the beach scene. The sea always brings a sense of serenity & joy.y family and I went to Montara beach last Friday, it was nice . Not much people. It’s safer than inside a Grocery store nowadays. Take care and regards to your family.

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  7. It’s always easy to see why you choose to live where you do Jo. It’s so beautiful. Hopefully the visitors will soon be able to return and bring the cafes and businesses back to life. That cake…amazing.

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  8. Pingback: As times go by | Le Drake Noir

  9. What glorious seascapes and what great pictures to display their glory. I find it hard to get my head around such vistas of long deserted beaches, the sort of places one dreams of finding (when one is on a crowded beach that is), but I think now I’d like some company. I’d also definitely want to know there was a cafe, a bar, a kiosk, anything to provide me with a coffee at the end of the walk. I can manage without the cake, but not the coffee!

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    1. For us, Mari, it’s the wine that spurs us on. Shameful admission. We are in a favourite restaurant right now. I was playing croquet this morning and met the other half afterwards. No shortage of lovely company here 🤗💕💕

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  11. The colours in your photos are outstanding Jo. They look amazing and you’re right about the anchors, there is no way I could walk past without a few pictures being taken. I think you live in a lovely place, sounds like it would be perfect for us too as being ultra-remote is a little depressing I think. It’s so much better to be on the edge of everything watching the world go by.

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    1. It’s true, Jonno. We’re quite social creatures normally and though lockdown was fine for a while we thoroughly enjoy the company of a couple of friends to walk with. We’re just home from a 10 km walk in the countryside and a lovely meal. Who knows what tomorrow will bring? Let’s live today 🤔💕💕

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    1. Thanks Pam. I count myself extremely lucky to have such easy access to it. Just home from a 10 km countryside walk with friends and a lovely meal. Spoilt rotten some days 🤭💕💕

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  13. Tavira! Lucky you. Such a beautiful location. And such a beautiful journey you’ve shared here! I can’t believe no one is at the beach. Great that people are being safe where you are. The beaches in the US have been packed.

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    1. It seems crazy- you have miles of beaches too, though I suppose the more accessible ones would be busy if it’s hot. Not a problem if we space properly and remember that the virus is still out there. We were at a beach further along the coast yesterday and in places it was busy too, but you just walk a way and find your spot. I’m better at walking on beaches than lying there, Kelly. 🙂 🙂

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  14. lovely boat ride and peaceful walk to the beach Jo. love all the beach ‘jewelries’ especially the exquisite blue flowers on the sand. thank you for taking us along and so sorry to miss you for a while. take care and see you when you get back. hopefully soon! lots of love! 🥰🥰

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    1. I’m not going far, hon, and it’s not necessarily a complete break from posting. I just don’t want to be tied in to the walks for a while. It’s getting hot here and there are other things to do. Thank you and take good care. 🙂 🙂

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  15. What a fantastic boat ride and walk, Jo! I wish I had something to contribute today, but the end of your last week’s post sounded to me as if you were taking time off, so I just have one amazing photo instead. 🙂 Have a week that is as beautiful as the post you shared, my friend.

    janet

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    1. I am suspending the Monday walk for a while, Janet, but the walks keep on coming in and I feel guilty if I don’t share. I have tried to make that clear. Too hot for serious walking here but there’s always a beach. I will still be around to visit and I’ll post when it comes into my head. Sending hugs darlin 🤗🌊💕

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      3. As I’ve said before, enjoy your life! Have you ever read any Elizabeth Cadell books? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_Cadell. I’m re-reading some of her books which I really enjoy, especially after too many mysteries that deal with unpleasant subjects, and I thought of you, because she eventually lived in Portugal and uses it in some of her books. They’re light reading but lots of fun.

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    1. I decided to take a break back in March but then when things grew serious with the virus I wanted to be here with my friends. It’s been good supporting each other but it’s getting hot here now. I’ll stay in touch and if I feel like posting I will 🤗💕💕 Take care till then.

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  20. It must have been a very beautiful and relaxing walk, Jo! The photos look like out of a paradisaical islands somewhere far far away!! You made me miss the sea, now that this year I won’t see it… (I usually go to La Antilla in Huelva, very close to the border with Portugal!)
    Uuuummm, now that my birthday is close, I’d love to try a piece of that cake! Is something typical from there? I wonder if there’s a recipe on the internet… looks delicious! 🙂

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    1. Biscuit cake is in most of the restaurants, Mercedes, but I don’t think it’s typically Portuguese. My husband is a fan. What will you be doing this birthday? 😍🌊💕

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      1. As this summer we won’t visit Faro, I’ll have to find that recipe!!
        I don’t have anything planned yet… I’m looking at the sky and the weather forecast… If things improve, it’ll be a birthday in the mountain!!! 🙂

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