Jo’s Monday walk : Changing reality

You don’t know what you have, till you’ve lost it?  I don’t think I was ever in any doubt about just how precious are our Algarve salt marshes, and the beaches beyond them.  One day, towards the end of March, with a State of Emergency in place, I set out to walk, within our prescribed area, from home.  Bypassing the town centre I headed past the salt processing centre and on beside the marshes.

The stork, in its nest, feeding young.  Just seconds before it had flown overhead, beak stuffed with fish.  My camera, too slow to capture.

Out along the road, on their own, two cottages stand together, backs turned to Tavira.  The road is narrow here, and paved only on one side.  Drivers approaching each other must choose who will mount the low curb to allow passage, a sometimes interesting manoeuvre to observe.  And then the road forks, one way passing an orange farm, the other continuing towards Fort Rato and the river beach.

The marshes are home to many birds, wading in the cloudy waters.  Everyone stops to watch if the flamingos wander close, wary, but diligent in their search for crill.  They are more easily seen from the Quatro Aguas road, or from the deck of the ferry as it chugs out from Tavira.

The abandoned fort broods silently, as it has for the many years since defence from attack by marauding pirates was a threat.  I wonder again why no-one has seen this as a business opportunity, but am quietly grateful that they haven’t.  This sometimes ugly stretch of river beach is beloved of dog walkers, and small children who can play safely in the shallow waters.

For me, it is my nearest access point to open water, the natural curve sweeping round to meet the river.  On the far shore, Quatro Aguas presents its more manicured facade to the sea.  I am well used to wandering here, watching the boats come and go, and sometimes venturing into the grounds of the Vila Galé Albacora hotel.  There’s a pretty courtyard, with a church, and a small museum dedicated to the fishing industry.

The hotel is closed, like all others since the threat of the virus became known.  Restaurants too, and there is nothing now to disturb the peace of the morning.  I skirt the boundaries and head back towards Tavira.

Clouds are bubbling up a little, as so often at change of tide.  This time I take the turn off past the farm, following the cycle trail.  On one side, the salt marshes, stretching towards Cabanas.  On the other, the row of palms I’ve come to regard as my Hula ladies, rustling their skirts in the breeze.

I’m heading for home now, beneath the railway tracks and past the Salinas estate.  I cross the E125, strangely silent, and follow the road through fields and houses towards the place that I live.

As I’m writing this, I feel the emotions stir for, just a couple of days after this walk, the closure signs went up on Shell Beach.  I no longer have access to the sea.  I have not tried to walk to Quatro Aguas, but fear this may be similarly out of bounds.  Particularly during the Easter period, the police have been vigilant in keeping people safe.  I’m hoping that the rules will soon be relaxed a little but, in the meantime, I have the countryside and beautiful hills behind my home and a good stretch of salt marsh.  You may have noticed the absence of cake?  The cafés are closed, of course, but you can still visit a bakery and take home something nice.  Next time, perhaps!  Meanwhile, did you spot a few chimney tops along the way?  I hope you’re joining in with Becky’s #SquareTops!  Looking very dapper today!

walking logo

When I was young I would often end up here in the Summer holidays.  Thanks for the memories, Eunice :

Peasholm Park, Scarborough

I never can resist a stretch of sea to walk beside, especially if it’s a bit choppy :

Walking along Jeju’s Yongduam Coastal Road & Olle Route 17

The greenkeeper’s got his eye on you, Drake!

Without rush and stress

It’s amazing what you can find in the desert, isn’t it, Mel?

Sunset, Sand and Sculpture

While Cathy brings us Italy in all its beauty :

Cinque Terre: Charming Portovenere

I’m still sharing walks, though I understand your opportunities are more limited at the minute.  I’m just happy to have you virtual travel with me.  Stay safe!

115 comments

  1. thank you for taking us to another lovely walk, Jo. very quiet and almost deserted but nonetheless beautiful. the colored chimneys are charming. we will feast on a celebratory cake when this is all over. keep safe and healthy! 🙂 🙂

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  3. I hope you’ll still be able to enjoy some walking at least, as you said. Here, for us, there are no restrictions other that to keep our distance from eahc other and – recommended – to wear masks.
    Take care, and stay healthy,
    Pit

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    1. It’s always a case that you want what you can’t have, Pit. It’s only a question of time and I hope to be paddling again. Meanwhile there are certainly alternatives. Thanks, hon 🤗💕

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  4. I love your description of the “hula ladies” – very apt. I love the colour of the clouds in the blue sky. The mini mountain of salt was pretty impressive! Sorry you cant go the beach anymore!

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  5. Oh, I’m sorry your beach access has disappeared! That would be a tough change to swallow. Our parks and bayou paths were shut down for Easter weekend, but I had already abandoned them because there had been so many clueless people congregating there in recent weeks. If I know you, you will find some brilliant alternatives. Soon enough, I hope we are all back in our preferred outside habitats!

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    1. You’ll have seen my roof top view, Lexie? I don’t have too much justification to moan. My son is mostly stuck in an apartment with no outside space. He can go for a run along the canal but I would be tearing my hair out if I couldn’t sit up here. And it is surprisingly easy to be lazy 🤣🤣🤣💕

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  8. It is always interesting to see the salt marshes Jo – and the place did look beautiful in its quietness. As did that stretch of beach which I hope opens up soon. My walks aren’t as beautiful as yours as I stroll in the streets of the city. I do enjoy looking at the houses though.

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  9. Pingback: Le Drake Noir

  10. A lovely walk Jo, I enjoyed tagging along with you. I’m not keen on the colour of the hotel but you’ve made the ‘sometimes ugly stretch of river beach’ look very attractive 🙂

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    1. Probably another month, Andrew, but the restaurants will be desperate to start sooner if they can. It’s so hard to gauge how much to cook, shop for, etc as takeaways 🙂 🙂

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  15. Good on you for getting out there and walking, Jo. It is a shame that the beach has closed. You won’t see those hula girls for a while. Virtual travel is the best atm.

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    1. I can still take the trail through the salt marshes, Amanda, and we did so again yesterday, going a different route. I need it for my sanity, though I can keep myself very busy just sitting here 🙂 🙂 Peaceful Easter? Not too much chocolate?

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  16. Oh Jo……..so lovely 🙂 A few things need to be sorted in my mind – “My camera, too slow to capture” camera? Cake? backpack? I see Judes and Cees photo tips have worked well – leading lines, horizontal lines, imaginary lines…..so many wonderful photos Jo. I do so love your Hula ladies 😀 Keep walking and keeping us (me) entertained ❤ ❤

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    1. The stork flying overhead with the fish. Would have made a cracking photo! 🙂 🙂 And I did nearly included the boxed cake we brought back one day last week, but I’m currently overwhelmed by chocoalte.

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  17. Beyond all the clouds, so the sky still wonderful blue – we all have to remember that. 🙂 Salt enough for how many eggs. 😀 Really enjoyed “our” walk today. 🙂

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  18. Interesting area you live near Jo. Thank you for showing us around. Thankfully we are still allowed to exercise even though it is just round and round a limited area. Seems it got a bit crowded on some of our beaches, perfect beach weather was so tempting for some people. So I think our Mayor May be shutting more beaches next week ☹️

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    1. I do have a fair amount of variety in my near surrounds, Pauline, and you pass very few people on some of our country trails. I’ll be taking us that route next week so you can compare. 🙂 🙂

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      1. hmmm yes but what about the deaths? I do get the economic woes and the hardships that this is all causing, it is going to be huge. But we still don’t have a vaccine or treatment . . . . . .still feels to early for me despite the economic risks

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      2. I’m not following the statistics on deaths, Becky. It’s debatable how accurate, or even how valid, they are. You’re always better informed than me, but I’m optimistic that if we continue to social distance we can minimise those that would not arise naturally. Maybe I’m an optimistic fool. It also depends where you live. In cities it’s obviously much harder to do.

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      3. oh you are so right on the statistics. The UK statistics are a nightmare for basing any decisions on. We are hardly testing nor are we accurately reporting the deaths. So no one really knows what the reality is here, just that it is much worse than the numbers portray. Which is why I am thinking the way I am . . . plus with the rapidly increasing number of NHS and care worker deaths because of a lack of PPE we’ve got a lot longer to go before social distancing has a real impact here at least 😦

        Reading something the other week suggested Portugal has a much better handle on things, so your optimism could be well placed 🙂 I really hope so because as you so rightly highlight the economic impact is going to be huge.

        I am trying to be optimistic like you and really hope the light appears at the end of the tunnel very soon. The long term effects on everyone’s mental well being are also going to significant, so thank goodness for such lovely posts as yours keeping us all smiling and full of hope and the possibility of cake!

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      4. I have to admit, I’m more frightened for my youngsters than I am for myself. I’ve had a good life, and both of mine live in cities. James is probably more vulnerable than Lisa, but bless her, she works with carers in her capacity as a Commissioner for the council, and is currently sewing scrubs for them in her spare time! Working from home, of course, which is actually benefiting her husband. There are always some winners… 🙂

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  20. This was a very bitter-sweet walk Jo. Do you enjoy walking on your own? I find I do, and my daily walk is definitely the high point of Lock Down Life. This is an unusual walk you’ve shared, but so full of interest.

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    1. I did actually have my companion with me, Margaret, but sometimes I prefer to write in the first person. We mostly go out together as he ceases up if he doesn’t get a bit of a walk in each day, but yes- I do, very much enjoy to walk on my own, taking note of everything around me. He’s not too bad a companion, and he does stop me getting lost, but sometimes you need the solitude. 🙂 🙂

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      1. Yes indeed. Malcolm no longer walks that much, but cycles instead, so my walks are solitary. Sounds as though we’re both sorted. I tend to write in te first person too. I’m glad you do too. I thought maybe I was being utterly self-centred!

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      2. I wouldn’t dare suggest it! 🙂 🙂 Isn’t that when you keep all the cake to yourself? Actually, it depends on the atmosphere I want to create, but sometimes I forget and a ‘we’ sneaks in. Pre-editing, of course! Have a nice day, hon. Not a public holiday here but it makes no difference at present…

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