Jo’s Monday walk : Portagem to Ammaia

It’s always good to start a post with a flamboyant flower, don’t you think?  Though in this case it has only a little relevance.  How many circular walks do you know that start and end by a river, exploring Roman ruins along the way?  I can actually think of one other, in the Algarve, but I was quite unprepared for the scale of these ruins, at Ammaia, in the Alto Alentejo region of Portugal.  Ruins I’d never even heard of!

I have to say that the last walk was a very hard act to follow.  Having seen the valley from the lofty heights of Marvão, I was curious as to how the village would look when viewed from below.  Driving back down didn’t seem half so difficult as the haul up to it had been.  As usual, I wasn’t doing the driving, but gazing out at the scenery.  Sleepy Portagem was a lazy dream of a day in early March.  Come back in July and it might be a different story, with screams and splashes echoing up the valley from the river beach.

Yes, that’s Marvão, right up on the top.  No wonder it’s serene and peaceful!  I read that the village hosts a Medieval Fair in October.  What a sight that must be!  And yet, for once, I’d opted for serenity and loved every moment.

It was, pretty much, also what we found on our descent from Marvão.  A river beach has been constructed on the River Sever and, alongside it, a smart pool complex.  Totally deserted, of course, in March.  Used, as I now am, to an early Spring in the Algarve, I was astonished to find bare trees, just awakening to the gentle warmth of the sun’s rays.

Looking at the sign boards there seemed to be a choice of two walks, PR1 and PR5.  So long as we didn’t have to climb all the way back up to Marvão on foot, it didn’t much matter which.  The river curved away into the distance, beneath a beautiful old bridge.

Crossing the bridge, a decision of sorts was made.  Inaccessible castle ruins and a more modern calamity, ripe for renewal, directed our steps.

Poppies danced overhead as we followed a grassy trail around the back of the village.  I stopped to admire a haphazard clump of irises, triggering a frenzy of barking from behind the fence.  Buried among bright green foliage, could that be a wild orchid?

Moths and butterflies fluttered by, intent on the beautiful day, and a patch of tiny, jewel bright violas.  A narrow road led between fields full of olive trees, where a farmer and his wife were clearing and burning tired, old tree branches.  They surveyed us with curiosity, nodding at our greeting.  I doubt if too many strangers pass their way.  Set back against the hillside, we became aware of some ruined structures, and speculated on what their purpose might have been.  The sign Fornos do Cal da Escusa suggested a connection with ovens.  We later found that these had been lime quarries, quite possibly dating back to Roman times and the nearby city of Ammaia.

In the distance, across the fields of olives, vines and sheep, Marvão kept watch from on high.

We had circled back towards Portagem but, just before the village, a right turn took us through the tiny hamlet, São Salvador da Aramenha, home to some beautiful camelias.  Past the church and a diminutive café, a left brought us to the Roman ruins, unimposing behind a locked gate.

Thankfully they were simply closed for lunch.  Just beyond the gates, a small museum, with a film show relating the history of the site.  Then we were free to wander, full of expectation.  The website Ammaia can provide details.

The site is surprisingly large, and actually spans a country lane, but much of it has yet to be excavated.  Remnants of the South Gate, the Forum and a bathing area are clearly visible.  Ongoing since 1994, progress is slow and reliant on students and volunteers.

There is enormous potential here, and in the stillness of the surrounds you can let your imagination roam.  Romans, gossiping in the Forum, languid in the baths, or patrolling the walls with Marvão on the horizon.  Meanwhile the grass grows long, sprinkled with wild flowers of lemon and blue.  Leaving the site, it was about another half hour, through the dappled shade of fragrant pines and yet more olives, back to the village of Portagem.  I think we mostly followed PR5.

But where’s the cake, I hear you say?  Well, there’s plenty at Su’s place, and Jude has some luscious meringues to share.  Perhaps you’d like to join them.  In this sleepy corner of the Alentejo, I was hard pressed to find a cake shop.

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A few more walks for you this week.  Please, keep sending them.  I don’t mind if they’re just of your back garden- it’s all fresh air, and a pleasant distraction for each other.

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Alice has a beautiful walk for us in these troubled times :

Prayer Garden

But nobody says it better than Drake :

Lonesome Avenue

Fancy a little climb with Irene?

Top of a Sand Dune

Meanwhile Natalie is staying positive :

Looking Forward to Spring

And playing in the waves.  Wish I could!

Fit and Fun Walk: Waves

Nobody captures beauty better than Lynn.  Treat yourself to a walk with her :

LOCAL WALKS: Signs of Spring in the Pacific Northwest

Wonderful Italy!  Cathy shares a journey I always wanted to make :

The Cinque Terre: Monterosso al Mare

Still in Italy, Sheetal takes me across the lagoon, to one of my most beautiful memories ever :

Colours of Venetian Isles

Stay safe out there!  We’re all traveling by armchair now.  Might as well get comfy.  I’d better go and find some cake!

103 comments

  4. Thank you, Jo, for taking us on this beautiful walk and sharing your stunning photos. I love the ruins, the history, and all those pretty flowers. Thank you also for including my walks. Stay safe and be well!

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  7. Well this was a pleasant walk, with no steep bits to concern me just lots of lovely spring flowers and cute lambs! Were you expecting the Roman ruins? They reminded me – and you I imagine – of the wonderful stuff you find along Hadrian’s Wall. Portugal just keeps on giving, though now I guess your restless nature is going to have to find some other outlet. I’m just about to head out into the garden and water it with slug nematodes before giving the roses some well deserved tonic (no Gin) and the clematis some food. Fortunately the garden centre was open on Saturday so I picked up some essentials, though whether it will be allowed to remain open is debatable. I shall have to resort to online orders. Had to cancel the electrician for now so I hope my hob doesn’t pack in completely or it will be salad for us for a while!
    Take care xx

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    1. I knew Ammaia existed but hadn’t realised we’d pass it on our walk. A nice bonus. Managed a long stroll on the beach this morning. One we have to drive to but at present that’s ok. Trying to stay positive and hopeful. 😍💕

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      1. That’s good that you can get out still. We’re worried that holidaymakers have come down here so there will be too many people on the beaches.

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  8. You find so many beautiful walks Jo and I really enjoy following along. What amazing ruins they are slowly unearthing, so much history. How is your country affected? Will you be going into lock down? Our borders with the rest of Australia closes from Wednesday. So our computers are going to be a lifeline to the rest of the world. Stay safe and well and keep eating cake 🧀☕️

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    1. The border with Spain is closed and everyone is holding their breath, waiting. We are fine, so far. No food shortages and we can still walk on the beach but I don’t know for how longer. Worried for small businesses. 😕💕

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      1. Sadly our small businesses, as of yesterday, have all closed and thrown 88000 people out of work. The government has doubled the unemployment payout but that still won’t be enough to live on in many cases. We can still walk to the beach, but total lockdown is looming. Pleased to hear you are ok, keep walking and I know you will keep smiling 🤗

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      2. James has been laid off, on 80% wages. With no childcare to pay or travel expenses he’ll be ok for a while but who knows if there’ll be a job at the end of this? Who’d be a youngster today? 😦 😦

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  9. Pingback: Walks have to be started | Le Drake Noir

  10. This looks like a lovely walk, especially if you get to see so many beautiful flowers along the way. In Ireland, daffodils are starting to make an appearance and I can’t wait to see splashes of colours everywhere! Thanks for sharing and have a good day, I hope all is well 😊 Aiva

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  11. lovely Jo, and just what i needed a virtual walk. Think there are going to be very few walks for us in the days and weeks ahead. We are now going into almost proper self isolation – just sorting out this week the last few click and collect from shops, and then it is going to be doorstep delivery only for us.

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    1. Oh dear! We haven’t reached that stage and I hope we never will. Delivery service isn’t an option here but it may well come. Good thing you can organise your Heritage stuff from home. And there will be Squares aplenty! Take care hon 🤗💕💕💕

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      1. Unfortunately I think it will have to come given what is happening in Italy and Spain and now here 😦 strongly recommend stocking up on dry goods!

        You take care too xxxx

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  14. This is a particularly lovely post, and I’m relishing the detail. Sorry about the cake-less-ness. Would you believe we still have some carrot cake left over from Saturday (real cake, as opposed to virtual, is a bit of a big ask for just two people). Shall I send some along?

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  16. Your pictures and words weave a world straight out of an Enid Blyton, (Famous Five/ Secret Seven) I used to read long ago, of wild countryside, flowers, hills , ruins , a place ripe for adventure. Beautiful post 😊
    Also thank you for giving a shout out to my post, thrilled!

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      1. I am feeling brighter after a lot of sleep. I feel like I have a lump of concrete attached to my leg and it’s hard to get comfortable. On the plus side my mega swollen foot isn’s half as swollen so it doesn’t hurt so much. My toes were so fat like looked like little sausuages, they now look like toes away. It’s all going in the right direction, thankfully!

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  20. A beautiful walk Jo and gorgeous photos also. We arrived back home on Saturday, it feels surreal to be back at a time like this. We are self-isolating for the next 14 days. How is the Coronavirus affecting you guys?

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