Jo’s Monday walk : Sete Cidades

I was going to save this walk till the end of my Azores saga, but it feels right to include it now.  You could say that the entire purpose of coming to these islands was to see the lakes at Sete Cidades with my own eyes.  Could they really be as beautiful as they appeared in the photographs?

They’re back on the main island, Sáo Miguel, a short flight from Faial.  Standing on the runway at Horta airport, looking across the water at Pico, I had to wonder if this second week was going to be an anticlimax.  I needn’t have worried.  Very little about the Azores disappoints.  A smiling taxi driver had whisked us from Ponta Delgada airport to our luxury hotel and thermal spa at Furnas (more about that later) and from there to the north west of the island.  The unfailing good humour and willingness to help of the taxi drivers never ceased to amaze.  En route, Maciel stopped to let us look at Lagoa do Fogo, whetting our appetite for the main event.

As so often, I got it right, but I got it wrong first!  The area is full of smaller lakes and, thinking to save our legs, the amiable driver paused briefly at Lagoa do Canario on the way up the mountain.  A quick, sunny look, and back in the car.  I had read that the viewing point Vista do Rei (King’s View) was a must see, and asked him to drop us off there.  It was growing increasingly cloudy and I was in dread of a repetition of our visit to the Caldeira on Faial, when we didn’t see a thing.  The clouds wafted around and I waited for that golden moment when the sun hits the water.  Almost in vain!  It was time to start walking, back in the direction we had come from.  Gradually the clouds melted, leaving us to hike a warm 3km along the switchback of a roadside.   The one saving grace was that it afforded us views we otherwise would have missed.

Lagoa do Canario
Lagoa do Canario

Sete Cidades from Vista do Rei

View from the roadside
Can you see the hydrangeas, just beginning to bloom?

Mountain weather is predictably erratic and I had my fingers firmly crossed when we finally reached the beginning of the trail, PR4.  It makes an 11km circuit of the two main lakes, Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde, after a bit of a steep climb.  Understatement!

I hadn’t known that there was rather a delightful surprise waiting for us.  A wonderful old, moss-covered aqueduct, Muro das Nove Janelas.

I gawped at it from every angle, before beginning the upward slog, gentle at first but soon arriving at a semi-vertical, narrow paved section, which led up, and up!  A couple of farmers climbed effortlessly ahead of us, turning off the path part way to herd the cattle to different pastures.

What a reward for effort!  As we climbed higher more of the lakes became visible, despite the lurking clouds.  At the top we heaved a sigh of satisfaction.  There before us spread four of the lakes, including Lagoa do Canario, our starting point.

Now all we needed to do was follow the rim of the volcano.  The trail upped and downed a little, and at one point we simply sat on a rock and gazed.  I can’t be sure but there may even have been a chocolate biscuit involved.  The view was too stunning to care.

Looking back the cloud still lingered but, as we made our way around the rim, more and more of Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde were revealed.  The light danced across the water, tracing patterns and changing colours on a whim.  On the horizon, the wild Atlantic, becalmed.

Wild flowers created beautiful borders for me, until finally I found what I had been hoping for- a wonderful spread of hydrangeas.

Gradually we came back down.  I had run out of superlatives and my feet were weary.  It seemed to take an inordinate time to reach the lakeside- we’d been walking about 4 hours- and as we did the cloud rolled back in.

How did the area come to be called Sete Cidades or Seven Cities?  It’s a historical reference, explained fully in the link, with explanations of the volcanic activity which gave rise to the lakes.  For us the big question was how to get to our next destination.  The only taxi in the village was busy, but the lady in the TI assured us he would come in half an hour.  He was late, but smiling, and singing to himself as he drove us back down the mountain, into the sunshine.

walking logo

The year is flying by, and one of the reasons I’ve chosen this walk is that it’s likely to be my last for a few weeks.  Next Monday I will be in England with a lively 6 year old to entertain.  Great fun but not conducive to lengthy posts.  I’d like to finish my Azores series this week, but there still seems so much to show you.  I’ll be away for 3 weeks so Jo’s Monday walk will be temporarily suspended.  Please do enjoy the following :

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All this lies on Lynn’s doorstep.  And orchids too!  What a privilege :

Local Walks: Kukutali Preserve

Carol has been walking with difficulty lately, but she can still contribute a wonderful browse around a market :

Let’s Go Shopping!

Drake honours the departed, 75 years on :

Remembrance of partnership

The island of Maui, seen through Irene’s eyes :

Just a Glance

While Alice has found us the prettiest little lighthouse :

Rear Range Lighthouse 1879

Beautiful views, with Janet, whichever direction you look :

Monday walk… Look out!

Anne tells an interesting tale of quarries and disaster :

Coombe Down and the story of Bath Stone

While Candy is exploring the green spaces of Deptford :

Margaret McMillan Park in Deptford

And from one Margaret to another…  🙂

Tabariane: New Light on the Dark Ages revisited

Golden light streaming from this one of Cathy’s :

(Camino day 26) Calzadilla de la Cuenza to San Nicolás del Real Camino

I don’t know that this totally fits the bill, but I think Ann-Christine would agree that these are Dreamy landscapes.  Certainly I dreamed of seeing them for a long time.  And Cathy has an ongoing Photography Invitation you might like to join?  Have a great week!

149 comments

  1. Pingback: Azorean ruin | WordsVisual

  3. What a stunning walk, Jo! With that ever-changing light, the beautiful views of the lakes, the hydrangeas, the abundant greenery – it’s all amazing. It sounds like it was quite strenuous as well, but all so worth it. Have a great time in England playing with your 6-year-old. And thanks so much for linking to my photography invitation. I’ll link this one to my next one on August 1. 🙂

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    1. Yay! 🙂 🙂 On 1st August we hope to be walking at Bolton Abbey in England, with the 6 year old and some of our Algarve Stroller friends, Cathy. It should be good fun. I’ll think of you!

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  5. Stunning is definitely the word, Jo. Each photo seemed more gorgeous than the previous one. It exactly how I felt at the cabin this summer: finally you just can’t take in and appreciate any more.

    When I think of the Azores, I always think of this poem about Columbus that I read when I was growing up: https://www.bartleby.com/248/798.html.

    Here’s my walk for the day, featuring some street art and sculptures: https://sustainabilitea.wordpress.com/2019/07/22/monday-walk-out-and-about-in-sheridan/.

    Enjoy these next weeks.

    janet

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    1. Hi Janet 🙂 🙂 I’m looking forward to a very different few weeks. All of life, an adventure! We’ve never looked after him full time before. Not sure who’s going to exhaust who first 🙂

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  9. This came as an extra bonus to me because when I was in the Azores a few years ago it was misty and cloudy for most of the time, and in between the mist and the clouds it rained – often. So I missed most of the lakes, despite taking taxis everywhere to try and reach them before the mist descended. Never mind, I enjoyed the fifties atmosphere so much there that I determined to return one day. But when that will be …..?
    I love that photograph with the hydrangeas at the lake, superb. How lucky you were to find that. I wouldn’t be able to do that walk now though. Four hours! Whew!

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    1. It wasn’t easy and we didn’t get it right, Mari, but it was such a fabulous, never to be repeated experience. I loved those islands with a passion, and the weather was very kind to us indeed. I’d like to go back some day, for Terceira and Flores, but who knows? 🙂 🙂

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  17. Wow, what fabulous photos of the lakes. Look amazing from above don’t they? Love that aquaduct too. No wonder you took so many pics of it, fascinating and full of character. Brilliant.

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  18. I’ve loved your Azores posts (and there are more?) with its backdrop of wild hydrangeas as a constant point of reference. Enjoy that six year old, who will doubtless be rejuvenating and exhausting in equal measure! x

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  20. This is stunning Jo . . . .no wonder you ran out of superlatives! What a glorious trip.

    Enjoy coming back to England, typical me I forgot your dates so have a walk coming up. Never mind can wait until your return xx

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    1. Thanks, darlin 🙂 🙂 It was a good ‘un! I saw your walk on Twitter Becky but not in the Reader so couldn’t link to it? I just shared 🙂 I may do a round up at some point because if people keep posting walks it’s hard to keep track. Off walking with a friend this morning. Slowly! Too hot 🙂

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      1. ah no the twitter one is another one, not til Friday the wordpress one!! I am hopeless . . it can wait though.

        and yes walk slow we don’t want you being ill xxxx

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