Jo’s Monday walk : That bridge, and beyond

Last week I guess I cheated a little on my walk in Kraków. There was a bit too much sitting about at the riverside, but it was a very warm day so I make no apologies.  I knew I’d be making up for it.  ‘Obiad’ was rather special, with a big family gathering for my last night, and all was peaceful in the house next morning.  Time to slip away, and savour my last few hours in the city.

I was warned that ‘Saturday service’ on transport would be different, but I was lucky and bus 178 sped me into town.  Rattling over Most Jozefa Pilsudskiego, I spotted my bridge with the intriguing sculptures in the distance and hopped off.  Walking back on ul. Krakowska, I noticed a plaque commemorating Jan Pawel Drugie, Pope John Paul II.  I hesitated there on the pavement, thoughts of Dad suddenly filling my head.  Pushing open the heavy wooden door, I slipped inside the church to light a candle.  Without him, I never would have been here in Kraków.

Out again, into warm and hazy sunshine, it was on with my quest.  Pausing to look at the map on the bridge Jozefa Pilsudskiego, I was more taken with details of how the city once looked than in absorbing my whereabouts.  A common fault of mine.  I have a hopeless track record on following maps.  Fortunately I’m much better at finding beautiful bridges.

This one, ‘Between the water and the sky’, had called to me since first I saw it.  I was mesmerised.  You do, however, have to beware of cyclists.

I got ‘honked’ at as I daydreamed beneath the sculptures.  Apparently it’s supposed to have a ‘cyclists only’ path.  I’m not the only one to have been captivated.  The ubiquitous love locks have made an assault on the bridge, but nothing can detract from it.  Kładka Ojca Bernatka, or the Father Bernatek Footbridge, was opened in September, 2010, on the site of a former road bridge dismantled in 1925.  The 130 metre structure, designed by Andrzej Getter, has no supports and is suspended upon an arch.  The wonderful acrobatic sculptures are the work of Jerzy Kędziora.  The districts of Kazimierz and Podgórze are linked once more, which will benefit the latter.

Tearing my attention from the bridge, it was time to investigate the corten steel clad building, which turned out to be the former power station in Podgórze.  Now an exhibition space and cafe, as it was 10.45am and opening time not till 11.00, I decided to push on and explore the area.

It’s a bit ramshackle in places, but turning onto Rynek Podgórskie I looked across a huge space at a striking church.  Sw. Jozefa w Krakowie Podgórzu had a delightful surprise awaiting me.  But first, a peep inside.  Dressed all in finery, as befits a wedding.  I dared not linger.

But outside, behind the church, an invitation to a wonderful garden.  Mounting the steps I looked down upon a grotto and out across the rooftops.  A young couple, similarly entranced, were taking detailed photos, so I bided my time.  As I descended a sprinkler played across the flowerbeds, a mist of water catching me out.  You can see the droplets, if you look closely.

A smile still on my face, it was time to retrace my steps across the bridge.  Naturally I couldn’t resist a few more shots.  I needed a coffee, but the big old wooden barge ‘Barka’ was closed, and smart ‘Augusta’ was busy with a conference.  That left me one other option.  A smaller boat with a comfy seat on deck, and a view.  Two guys in a blow-up dinghy drifted by and waved.  I smiled and waved back.

Wondering about cake?  I was good on this occasion, but with a venue for later in mind.  First I had a walk along the riverbank.  Music was drifting across the river from the big stage at Termy Krakowskie, a nicely relaxed vibe, as my son would say.  He’d love it.

Boat hire was quiet, but Wawel Castle looked Saturday busy.  Any ideas where I’m heading?  Hotel Pod Wawelem has a roof top restaurant, as the name indicates, directly below the castle.  No doubt about it- cake with a view!

Fully satisfied, the trip wouldn’t be complete without paying my respects to Wawel.  Even on a busy Saturday, the place is sublime.

‘Home’ one last time.  Just one more Reminiscences from Poland to come and that will be my trip complete.  Already it feels distant.

I hope you enjoyed sharing Kraków with me.  Time to put that kettle on for this week’s walks.  Many thanks, everyone!  Join me here at any time on Jo’s Monday walk.  You’ll always be welcome.

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One of Debbie’s loves is street art.  She was richly rewarded in Madrid :

This is a Square

Drake has been captivating me with a series of photos of the island of Gozo :

When bath rocks

An enigmatic title from Jackie this week :

Snakes and Lattes

Lady Lee sets the world on fire, but don’t worry- it’s quite safe!

Summer solstice bonfire

Gunta shares more of the beautiful, natural world on her doorstep :

A stroll through the meadow

Share some ‘lolling kangaroos’ with Pauline.  She’ll be delighted if you do :

Australia’s iconic creatures

Or hoof it from snow to ‘shy rays of brightness’ with Susan :

Walking a rainforest trail in Olympic National Park

A heart stopping moment, just looking at one of Cathy’s photos.  Don’t miss it!

Ottos’s Trail & The Devils Kitchen Trail at Colorado National Monument

And if you have time to spare you could join Indra on Prince Edward Island :

PIE (PEI) in the Ocean

That’s it for another week.  Can you believe, we have a drop of rain here in the north east?  I’d forgotten what it’s like.  Have a good one!

136 comments

  1. Ahhh – the age-old struggle between cyclists and pedestrians. I have a foot in both camps here, but Jo, I must say that it would be a shame to waste this whimsical bridge and its marvelous sculptures on cyclists alone. I marvel at the realism of the sculptures, but always when I see these types of artworks, I have to wonder how on earth the artist manages to get the balance right on all these pieces. Amazing. And BTW, great photos. ~James

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  4. Wow! Jo,you bring us along on your exploration, your beautiful descriptions capturing our imagination and along with the wonderful photos we are instantly transported! Thank you so much … this is a gem of a city and I now want to visit it more than ever. The acrobats looks so real I didn’t realise they were statues until I read on but I did wonder about healt and safety rules! 😀😀

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    1. That’s better than Andrew Petcher, who wanted to know why I wasn’t balanced up there taking the selfie, Annika. 🙂 🙂 He was joking, of course. There does seem to be a lot more to this city than meets the eye, and I have thoroughly enjoyed exploring it. Glad I could make it look inviting to you.

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  5. What a glorious city Jo that bridge with the acrobatic sculptures is fantastic just the perfect place for them. Loved this walk with you and to finish with that sumptuous looking cake and wine, perfect. Thank you for putting in the link to my walk. Hope your heat is cooling down a bit

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    1. It’s our second grey day up here in the north east, Pauline, but they’re still ‘suffering’ further south. 🙂 🙂 I love that bridge! His website gives you some closeups and other work too.

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  8. Great tour and fabulous bridge. I’ve been caught out on pedestrian vs cyclist paths too. I’m a bit anti-lovelocks. It’s an overdone trend, that actually causes damage to structures when in large enough numbers.

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    1. Cyclists have become the enemy in some situations, Draco. They often ‘creep up’ on me on country footpaths, without ringing their bell, and I have to leap into the shrubbery. Hard life, isn’t it? 🙂 🙂

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  11. Got here at last! Been a busy and hot day though the breeze was very welcome. Managed to get a bit of sunburn whilst out re-potting some plants. Stupid to turn your back on the sun! Watched some tennis, did some washing, changed bed linen – it is soooo sticky hot at night, I prefer nights to be much cooler. And in between I tried to read some blogs!! This is a lovely post Jo, has a kind of melancholy feel about it, like you are saying goodbye. The acrobatic sculptures are wonderful and I am sure I would have been run over by a churlish cyclist! Would have loved to have joined you for the cake (and cream and ice-cream) and the views. Hope all is well ‘oop north. xx

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    1. We’ve said goodbye to heat up here but I understand it’s temporary. Funnily enough Lisa knew this bridge when I described it to her. She crossed over it from her hotel. Took me all these years! Hope you had your bonnet on to protect your brain? You can have the cake and I’ll make do with the wine. Hugs darlin xx

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      1. No bonnet either. But I shall stay out of the sun for a while. Need to finish off my gravel area, but it will have to wait for a cooler day. No wine tonight, too busy glugging down water!!

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  12. You know what. I’ve been to Krakow briefly twice, and I’ve obviously never been there. This is an absolutely wonderful post, and I can see why you like the city so much, although I feel defensive of Warsaw. You found so many treasures, just following your nose. And very lovely weather – we froze in sleet last time I visited.

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    1. Well I’ve probably been 10 times in total and only just found this area. Leave me wander for long enough…
      Nice to get away from the tourist traps. I do think there’s a lot to this city and did you look at Jerzy’s website? Fantastic stuff! Late Monday hugs xxx

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  15. I love those sculptures in the wires of the bridge. Waht an ingenious idea! That bridge, btw, reminds me a little of the Millenium Bridge in London.
    Have great week,
    Pit

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