Jo’s Monday walk : A soggy ending, in an Alcazar

“Is the weather always like this?”, I asked the smiling receptionist, as I shook the drips from my hood.  “Never!”, she replied, with an adamant shake of the head.  My lucky day, then.  But there was no other option, as I was determined to see the Alcazar of Jerez, and soon we would be homeward bound.  The video playing in the background displayed wall to wall sunshine.  Salt in the wounds, but it was a magnificent sight.  ‘Alcazar’ derives from the Arab word al-qasr, meaning a group of buildings, surrounded by walls, used both as a fortress and a palace.  Built in the 12th century, this was the seat of political and military power ruling the city.

A sprint across the courtyard brought me to the shelter of the mosque, or mesquita, the only one still to exist from the 18 of the Islamic city.  Dating from 12th century, it has all the usual elements- the minaret, for calling the faithful to prayer, and an ablutions courtyard with central fountain for purification before entering the prayer room, itself presided over by the Mihrab, a small niche in the wall facing Mecca.

Tucked within the walls, the biggest olive press I ever saw.  The oil mill was added in the 18th century, when growing olive trees was of great commercial importance to Jerez and the surrounding countryside.

Swiftly crossing the Parade Ground, where military formations were once assembled and reviewed, I beheld the sorry sight of the drowning garden.

Beyond it the Royal Pavilion, designed for reclining beside the pool, and the Octagonal Tower.    Part of the original Islamic fortress, situated at its highest point, it makes a superb watchtower.  And you know that, weather or no, I was going up there.

Happily I’m not the only one with a careless disregard for the weather.  Climbing the tower behind me, a Frenchman declares that all is simply ‘magnifique’.  We agree that in bright sunshine we’d have to share it with many others.  From the tower you can see the scale of the Alcazar, the walls originally 4 kilometres long.  An area under excavation dates back to the 10th century.  It includes a pottery kiln , water wheel and reservoir.

However exhilarating the views, rain dripping off your nose can become tiresome, and I was not sorry to scurry back across the courtyard to the palace.  In 1664 Lorenzo Fernandez de Villavicencio inherited the Alcazar.  He undertook much restoration work, including this beautiful piece of baroque, over the ruins of the old Islamic palace.

A dark wood staircase and superbly carved doorway dominate the space.  Lofty rooms filled with beautiful pieces.  And the ‘piece de resistance’, a remarkable pharmacy, with carved original wooden shelving, flasks and jars.

A Camera Obscura on the top floor of the palace seemed like a bad idea in such murky weather.  The Hammam, or Arab Baths, might have been a better experience.  In the event, I slipped back out, past the still smiling receptionist.

That concludes my couple of days in Jerez.  This Andalusian city has neither the grandeur of Granada nor the unique beauty of Cordoba, but it has a charm and character all of its own.  I enjoyed it very much, and I hope that you did too.

With Easter behind us, I hope you’ll take time to read the walks I’m sharing this week.  Many thanks to all my contributors and to those who just enjoy a bit of a ramble.  Please join me at any time with a walk of your own.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Kettle on, and let’s go!

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Spectacular scenery from Pauline to start us off this week :

Waterfall walk

It’s not everybody who can take a walk without talking.  Enjoy the peace, with lovely Meg!

Wordless walk: 1080 to Tilba Headland

And if you want to share some knowledge too… :

Never the same place twice : Pooles to 1080

Naughty George and adorable Flora accompany Gilly along the canal.  Watch out, ducks!

Beside the Grand Western

Suzanne is a housesitter who likes to get about a bit.  Join her in Turkey :

Neighbourhood Walks – Iztuzu Beach & more

Fabulous falls in a gush of swirling water, from Drake.  Must be all that rain!

Falling water

Sunshine after the rain.  Thanks, Irene!

Ended in Sunshine

And just a reminder, in case you needed it.  Magical snow in NYC, with Susan :

The Magic of New York City : Central Park in the Snow

Not actually a walk but it’s walk related.  Thanks for sharing, Denzil :

23 Ways Hiking Makes you Healthier

And a gentleman hiker I discovered at Denzil’s place.  Meet Guidowke with an interesting look at Belgium :

GR5AZ Rupelmonde – Branst

Or travel through history with David in a beautifully peaceful French village :

Village of Azincourt

What will I do when Jude runs out of Garden Portraits?  Give up blogging, I suspect :

Garden Portrait : Dunster Secret Garden

We drove home from Jerez in tumultuous rain, crashing against the windscreen, that old adage ‘the rain in Spain…’ drumming in our ears.  And now, on an English Bank Holiday Monday, it’s much the same.  Stay dry, and cheerful, this week, won’t you?

95 comments

  1. The mist, the wet garden, the green…there’s something very atmospheric in your Jerez photos though it wasn’t sunny. I like that both you and the French visitor appreciated the better side of exploring an alcazar under precipitation.

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  4. Yet another place in Jerez I didn’t see! I’m beginning to wonder if we spent all our time in the bodegas and bars (despite my husband being a non-drinker), but I think we went out in the car most days and toured around, walking old pathways when we stopped. I remember one day we stopped to stare at a field of fighting bulls who stared back at us when the owner came along on horseback and invited us back to his house for a closer look. We didn’t get too close but the experience was amazing, especially the manzanilla he produced. That man of mine missed so much!

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  6. You were certainly unlucky with the weather for your visit Jo. I remember a wet day in Ronda in 2016 and a damp couple of days in Santillana del Mar in the north in 2012 but mostly only blue skies in Spain.

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    1. I’ve been rained on seriously in Seville too, Andrew. One reason that Mick’s not fond of the place. They wouldn’t let us in to the Alcazar there for health and safety reasons! 🙂 And it was seriously wet and windy in the Algarve at the same time as this so nothing spoiling. 🙂 When the couple at the next table commented that it took 3 goes to land their flight I did think twice!

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  7. It was too bad about the rain, Jo, but what a magnificent place anyway! I love that 1934 poster of Jerez de Frontera, the soggy garden, the views from the tower, and the courtyard. You are a trooper!

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      1. I know the feeling, Jo. You make a trip somewhere, so you have to go out rain or shine. I remember that horrible rainy weekend in Nikko, Japan. I was soaked through, cold and miserable. But I couldn’t let it stop me. It’s nice you’re staying home to relax. Did you have your Easter egg hunt yesterday?

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      2. We wnt to Leeds, Cathy, to the Royal Armouries museum. There was jousting on but the tickets had sold out. Just as well because it was cold and damp. It’s an excellent museum (and free 🙂 ) We managed to watch a bit from one of the top floor windows. Nice day out 🙂 🙂 What did you do? I saw your cocktail hour somewhere but haven’t been able to find it since you switched blogs.

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      3. It sounds like you enjoyed your Easter despite the rain, Jo. We went to see a Japanese movie called Oh Lucy! We thought it was to be funny, but it was quite tragic instead. Then we went to eat sushi with Sapporo & hot sake. It was a Japanese Easter all around.

        Yes, I did write a cocktail hour on nomad, interrupted. I’ll continue to post my cocktail hours on that blog, as well as anything not travel related.

        We’re going to see Ana Moura in concert on Wednesday night at the Barns of Wolf Trap. 🙂 Getting in the Portuguese frame of mind for the fall. xx

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  8. Pingback: Sand excursion | Le Drake Noir

  11. Oh, what a magnificent old place, Jo! Thank you for my Virtual wander….and minus hordes of tourists, too! Well, rain has its uses….

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    1. I don’t need sympathy, Margaret. I had a wonderful time. Almost the entire of the Easter holiday has been wet here in the north east, but I keep telling myself it’s only weather. It’s not going to dampen my spirits. 🙂 🙂

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  14. All those superb arches. The finale of cobblestones says it all about the rain. But what lovely gleam it provides. You’re a splendid tour guide.

    (I’m trying to follow blogs in Reader instead of by email, so if I miss you I’m sorry. I’m also going to be a bit frantic in the next two weeks: this time in two weeks I’ll probably be in Singapore.)

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    1. By email is a chore, Meg, and I fully understand. I’m counting down with you! I need to contact Adam this week and decide if I’m doing a family visit. Hugs, darlin! Thanks for walking in the rain with me. 🙂 🙂

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    1. It does, Leanne! 🙂 🙂 It was raining and windy in the Algarve at that time too, so we definitely didn’t feel short changed. Many thanks for your visit. Hope it was a good Easter break.

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  16. Does anything damper your sense of adventure?! Even in the rain it looks fabulous through your eyes Jo. 🙂

    Love the fact there were no crowds, and the other advantage of all that rain the countryside is now looking amazing. Glorious in the hills at the moment. xx

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    1. Yes, I keep imagining it, Becky. 🙂 🙂 Why didn’t we move sooner? But there are reasons and life is what it is. We had a nice family day in Leeds yesterday. Cold about gone? What are you planning today? Just read the Enjoy the Algarve magazine and there looks to be excitement ahead. Isn’t there always! 🙂

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      1. Glad you had a good day yesterday – family is so important 🙂
        No idea what is on the agenda today, no sign of MrB yet! However I am about to do what you have just done – looking forward to the read 🙂

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    1. We had a nice family outing to the Royal Armouries in Leeds yesterday. The jousting was sold out but it was cold and wet so we watched some of it from the upper storeys of the museum. How about you? 🙂 🙂

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  18. Thanks for the mention, Jo. Much appreciated. I love rain during the warmer seasons, freshness in the air and wet 🙂 Amazing photos. Numerous places outshine the more touristy ones in Spain. Back in Spain at the end of the year!

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    1. My sunniest memories are of Cordoba in late April, and the Alcazar was stunning. Granada was still cool and aloof at that time, but unrivalled in so many ways. Enjoy your sunshine! We have a wet week coming up here. 🙂 🙂 Still smiling!

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      1. We shall be in the Uk on the 11 April, and we shall no doubt have a few wet weeks. We have yet to find the perfect place!! In other words, it doesn’t exist. Good to hear you are still smiling 🙂

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  20. I’ve often reflected on the relatively small number of of rainy days I’ve had in my travels, but sometimes there has even been beauty in the rain. I hasten to add that nearly getting drowned between the British Museum and the underground was not one of those beautiful experiences 🙂

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      1. Thank you, yes Jo. With one daughter & fam in East Sussex and our local one away also, we had a very quiet one, but 35C is too hot for this time of year 😩

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