Jo’s Monday walk : The beauty of Bamburgh

Last Monday I left you with one eye on the sky, looking towards beautiful Bamburgh.  Soon after, I was high in the battlements of the castle.  It’s just 3 miles around the coast from Seahouses, and the coach whisked me there in minutes.  You know I would have prefered to walk, but time was of the essence.  I had never before gained access to this, one of the north’s mightiest castles, and was hugely excited to be there.

Bamburgh is a small village, totally dominated by the castle, seat of the former Kings of Northumbria, and the burial place of Grace Darling.  I would have loved to visit the museum to her memory but today I was on a mission.  I had just a couple of hours and it wouldn’t be wasted.

The sky was dark but the flag flying proudly as I climbed the hill towards the gateway, and caught my first glimpse of the dunes.  In the far distance, the Farne Islands, home to a colony of puffins and numerous seabirds.

Inside the gateway a sequence of information boards gives a brief history of the castle, and then you’re approaching the battlements.  A small boy is very enamoured of the tubbiest canon, and I wait patiently while his Dad coaxes him away.  Beyond the battlements an expanse of green stretches out, a roller propped against a wall testifying to hours of work to maintain its pristine appearance.

The castle astounds with its scale, and venturing through the doorway you may well pause in surprise.  The walls are thick, as a castle wall should be, but light flows in from high windows. The alcoves are deep and have been used to display the castle’s many treasures.  I am particularly taken with the clocks, which appear throughout the castle, and there’s a fine collection of Chinoiserie, historic paintings and photographs.

One of many lovely clocks
The slaying of the Lambton worm

Be prepared to gawp in admiration as you enter the King’s Hall.  Built on the site of the medieval Great Hall, it is a Victorian masterpiece.  The ceiling is made with teak from Thailand. The King of Siam, as it was then known, was a good friend of Lord William Armstrong, the industrialist who was responsible for completing the restoration of the castle.

Perhaps it’s time to squeeze a little history in.  There is archaeological evidence that as early as 10,000BC this area was inhabited.  The Romans arrived sometime between 43AD and 410AD, to find a Celtic fort, and knew it as Din Guayrdi.  Written history begins with the Anglo-Saxons, when Christianity was brought to the area by saints Oswald, Aidan and Cuthbert.  The Vikings destroyed the fort in 993, the Norman castle and tower which eventually replaced it being the foundation of the present one.  The Percy family, Earls of Northumberland, were based at the castle when a 9-month siege by Richard Neville, 16th Earl of Warwick, ended the Wars of the Roses in 1464.  King James 1 then gifted the castle to the Forster family.  Somewhat surprisingly it became a surgery and dispensary for the poor and sick under John Sharpe.  Finally, the castle was bought by the first Lord Armstrong in the 1800s, but he died before restoration could be completed.  It’s obviously much more complicated than this, but I’ve brought you full circle.  The Armstrong family still own the castle today.  Now let’s enter the King’s Hall.

Impressive, isn’t it?  Did you spot another clock?  A little too ornate for my mantelpiece but looking fine against the wood panelling.  And so it goes on.  Opulence follows opulence and I spent considerable time admiring.

But that clock was ticking and, after a brief interlude in the kitchens and scullery, I tore myself away and made for the outdoors.  A quick tour of the castle walls, then will I have time to make it down to that beach?

At the rear of the castle I find a narrow pathway down through the dunes.  A sign points it out as the Victorian path to the beach.  I imagine swishing skirts and parasols, and certainly the steadying arm of a gentleman friend.  I follow it most of the way down but it twists and turns and I doubt that I have time to make the return trip.  I retrace my steps to the front of the castle.

A band is setting up on the huge village green and I wish I could hang around for the festivities, but it’s time for my return to the coach.  I hope you enjoyed walking with me in this beautiful part of the world.

The Bamburgh Castle website is a beauty, and will give you many more details than I can provide here.   You can even stay at the castle, if you wish.  Meantime, let’s get that kettle on and visit a few more walks.

Many thanks to all my contributors and to you folks in the armchair too.  You liven up my Mondays beautifully.  If you’d like to join me there are details on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Please do!

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Anabel finds a little incredible beauty of her own :

Kananaskis

Much nearer to home for me, and looking lovely in full bloom :

Simonside Hills – A walk amongst the Heather in the deceptive heat

Jackie’s menu planning and sunshine!

Pot-au-feu

A misty lake and horses!  Nice combination, Janet :

Let’s go the lake

Liesbet has some very interesting formations to show us this week :

Day Trips around Santa Fee, NM : Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 

And I can always rely on Jude for something beautiful :

Loe Bar Circular Trail through Penrose Estate

Delighted to welcome Madhu here, with some fascinating insights into Brussels :

Brussels – Glimpses of an Eclectic Cityscape

Drake takes us back to his Danish roots, where the living is easy :

Lazy living mood

Welcoming more beauty with Meg’s rock hunting post :

Eurobodalla beaches: Tomakin Cove (north) and Barlings Beach (south)

Woolly’s back on the Memorial Trail this week :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk35

We all need a little of this, and Annika’s sharing :

Creative energy

And lastly, a wonderful surprise for me-  Gilly playing hopscotch!  Enjoy Florence, hon  :

The High Lands of Orcombe

That’s it for another week!  Fabulous, aren’t they?  Please do find time to visit.  I’m off out walking with my group, if the rain holds off.  Have a happy week ahead!

 

152 comments

  1. That Lambton Worm’s a bit creepy isn’t it? Castles are often a bit austere for me, but this one has lots of pretty things so it’s cool. That’s about as far north as the Romans went isn’t it? I’m glad you got to go an share it with us, amazing. Have a lovely week sweetheart ❤

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    1. It’s a funny old story, Gilly! Bamburgh’s very swish, as castles go, but I bet it was still a good bit draughty back in the day. 🙂 🙂 Are you all packed, hon? Not long now! I’m excited for you.

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      1. Just have to get up in the morning and throw in my toothbrush – I think!!! Train to Bristol and we’re gone! The puppies have gone to their mummy’s house, that’ll be fun with 5 of them there!

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      2. You won’t know yourself without them! 🙂 🙂 Be difficult getting to sleep tonight. Have the bestest time! It’s been a rough 6 months. Stick a couple of hugs in with the toothbrush. 🙂

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  2. Bamburgh is stunning and I love that it’s right by the sea. We went a few years ago but didn’t get to go inside as we were pressed for time so I was intrigued by your pics of the interior. It’s gorgeous in there – might just have to make plans to go back now! Hope all’s well with you Jo?

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  3. Now that is an impressive castle! The grounds are extensive and the view even more so, even on a cloudy day. King’s Hall is exquisite, indeed! I can imagine you had a good time here, Jo. Were you on a tour with a coach? Seeing the Farne Islands in the distance must have peaked your interest as well. I remember you mentioned them before, but I don’t think you have visited the puffins yet, have you?

    I recognize that level of patience, waiting for someone to clear the perfect photo view. 🙂 And it always boggles my mind to hear about international friendships so many years ago, way before planes were part of our lives.

    Thank you for posting a link to my previous New Mexico walk! Here is another one your readers might enjoy:

    http://www.roamingabout.com/day-trips-around-santa-fe-nm-bandelier-national-monument/

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    1. The real McCoy, this one, Liesbet! 🙂 🙂 I was basically on a day trip because my husband was too busy to come out to play. We were dropped off at Seahouses with an option tto visit, Bamburgh, all of which I did in about 4 hours. It wasn’t a guided tour, as such. I did my own 🙂 Thanks a lot for the link. Be there soon!

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  4. What an amazing castle Jo! I know I’ve asked before, but how far away generally are all the walks you go on? You have so many amazing walks! Do you normally do a day trip each week to a new one? My kids would love this castle. Reminds me of a fairytale

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    1. Hi Nicole 🙂 I seldom travel further than an hour and a half, and very often less. This week’s walk and Seahouses last week were part of a day coach trip I took because Mick was too busy to gad about. We usually go somewhere each week but not always somewhere new. A lot depends on the weather too. Bamburgh is a couple of hours drive from us, and yes, it’s a good place for families. 🙂 🙂

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  5. Pingback: A stroll between Lisbon’s three funiculars – It caught my eye in Portugal

  10. Oh wow, impressive architecture, Jo! :O
    I really love the location as well, with these nearby dunes and the water.
    It’s such a coincidence that I visited yesterday a village with a mighty castle as well in north Luxembourg 😀

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    1. Unbelievable how many castles there are around, isn’t it? I guess we’re a war-like bunch! Thankfully this one does holiday lets instead of shooting canon. 🙂 🙂 It’s a wonderful coastline, Eleazar.

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  15. Bamburgh is fascinating. I am so used to ruined castles that to enter one that is fully furnished is extraordinary. We loved looking around it and eavesdropped on a conversation about ghosts in the castle.
    “Some visitors claim they have been touched by unseen hands, others have heard strange noises: a baby crying, piano music or the sound of footsteps running and dark eerie shadows seen within the castle’s corridors.”

    Northumberland is a beautiful county – have you been over to the Holy island?

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    1. I’m not keen on ghosts 😦 You haven’t posted about this yet? I couldn’t remember if you stopped off at Bamburgh. It’s a few years since we were at Lindisfarne. You can’t just turn up so occasionalyl we have passed by.

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      1. Don’t think I ever posted about Lindisfarne or Bamburgh. I do have some photos of the castles and the priory ruins too that I should post. So many trips!! Didn’t stop there last year though.

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      1. We are in Coimbra now, what a beautiful city. Maybe the Portuguese Florence. Two nights here then across to the coast for r&r before tackling Porto. Weather stunningly good.

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  19. Thanks, Jo, for this fantasticx walk around Bamburgh Castle! 🙂 But what does that now leave me at? Do I think I don’t have to go there myself any more as I’ve seen it all here? Or does it make me want to go there all the more to see it with my own eyes? – Definitely the latter!
    Have a wonderful week,
    Pit

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    1. I just gave you a taste, Pit. There’s a bit more for you to see, if you ever make it up this way. 🙂 🙂 Thanks a lot, hon. Is the weather settling a bit over there. I hardly dare watch the news.

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  20. Thank you for this jaunt to Bamburgh Castle, Jo, I thoroughly enjoyed it. The castle is grand, its history is impressive with the rebuild and longevity, and the architecture is breathtaking. I enjoyed the links, thanks, and the story of Grace Darling and her and her father’s brave rescue through the storm and rocks. The beach and overlook (yay, puffins) are so inviting.

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