Jo’s Monday walk : Querenca to Fonte de Benemola

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Another of the Algarve’s sleepy villages, Querenca was looking idyllic on the last day of my October holiday.  Our walking group were meeting at the cafe on the left of the photo above.  It’s quite a drive up into the hills and a ‘bica’ of coffee is always appreciated before we start walking.

Surrounded by rolling hills and leafy green scenery, Querenca breathes pure tranquillity. Excepting when the Festa das Chouricas takes place, at the end of January, and the waft of spicy sausage rouses the locals.  In honour of St. Luis, the patron saint of animals, the celebrations give thanks for the pigs, bred locally, that feed the villagers throughout the year.  I rather fancy trying chouriço à bombeiro, where the sausage is doused in brandy and set alight. Bombeiros are fire fighters, in case you wondered.  Time to set forth.

We leave the village square in a downhill direction, over lovingly worn cobbles.  I’m too busy admiring the scenery to realise that the return route could well be steeply uphill. There are 13.7 kilometres to cover first.  I’ve walked to Fonte de Benemola in the past, but this route is unfamiliar.

Portuguese street names do sometimes seen inordinately long.  And did you notice that cat, giving me such a baleful look?

Continuing downhill we find the beginning of the trail to the Fonte, or spring.  A lush green valley leads beneath lofty cliffs, the arid red of the Algarve soil revealed in the fissures.  It reminds me greatly of my trip to Rocha da Pena, but today the weather is impeccable.

img_4322The trail winds along dustily, and becomes quite rock strewn in places.  In Spring these nooks and crannies will be dressed in the finery of rock roses and lavender, with the promise of wild orchids.  This late in the year colour is harder to find.

When finally I reach the Fonte, the bamboo and rushes are bleached almost colourless.  A soft shushing noise betrays the presence of the water, a sign ‘olho’ pointing hopefully.  A young couple are balanced on the rocks, trying to capture on camera the bubble of water as it rises and swirls in an ‘eye’.  I carry on, knowing that I’ve seen it in far less parched surroundings.

These natural springs prevail throughout Portugal’s hills.  This is ‘the eye’ in Springtime.

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As we follow signs back to the village I wonder if the cheery basket maker is still there, with his whistles and bird imitators.  I had purchased a wicker bowl last time, feeling sorry for him as he sat alone in the woods.  It serves as a slightly wonky erstwhile fruit bowl. Many new arrivals are enjoying the unseasonally hot weather, and I feel sure that he will be enjoying good trade in his shady dell.

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Remember that climb back into the village?  I confess I had forgotten all about it.  It took a while before I was puffing and panting back into the village square.  There just has to be a reward, don’t you think?

Much later I discovered a video of the Fonte that I thought you might like to see.

There are a number of routes around the natural springs.  Walking Trails of the Algarve pages 76 and 80 will give you shorter variations on this walk, or you can simply follow the signboards.  This video will give you a glimpse of the basket maker.  Please ignore the advertising.  I hope you’ve got the kettle on, ready to join my walkers from your armchair?

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Thanks so much, everybody, for your kind contributions to my walks.  I wasn’t at all sure where to lead you this week but in the end I opted for sunshine, as Winter wraps itself around us here in the UK.  I hope you enjoyed it.  If you’d like to contribute anytime the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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I do like a tinker in a museum and a browse round a market.  Geoff can tell you a story or two as well :

From Paddington to Page#walking#london

Woolly likes a little stroll, with not too much effort and some classy cars :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Car-Show

But sometimes he gets a little further :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Geelong-Foreshore

Jackie’s by the York River, in Yorktown.  Virginia, of course!

Day 6- Yorktown

Nothing like a good fumble around the Albert Docks with Drake.  He’s in his element!

Come and get it

Does anyone know what Pargeting is?  Jude does, and I really love it :

Love Lavenham

Becky’s counting to 6 this week, but there are lots more than that!

There are pomegranates in the tree

While Carol’s fossil hunting and has found loads!

Buried Treasure

Or you could join Kathrin for a delicious trip to the beach :

A day at Solana Beach

How do you follow the legend that is Badfish?  Why, with devotion, of course :

ONE FINE DAY in BRATISLAVA : Part III

That’s it for now.  I think I’ll be walking in the UK again next week.  Feel free to join me but, more importantly, take care till then.

131 comments

  1. Jo, this is such an idyllic walk, the village resembling a calm film set, the natural spring so lovely, perfect for dipping your toes. The street names are soooooo looooong! Does anyone say the whole name or are they all shortened! As for the cat…I’d keep my distance! Thank you for sharing this dreamy walk with us. At over 13 km I a quite happy to have completed it virtually!

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    1. Our Tuesday walks with The Striders in the Algarve are anything from 12 to 19km, Annika. They’re pretty fit people! There is a much more sedate walk with The Strollers on Fridays which is just an amble between coffee shops but for the moment we’re trying to keep up. 🙂 Not sure how long it will last. Loved your company 🙂

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  4. Jo it was great fun to watch the video and hearing the water running. No small walk at 13.7km with a big uphill too! Such a pretty little village with it’s shockingly white buildings. Always a delight to wander with you and hoping you are feeling to your old self today.

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    1. Hiya, Sue 🙂 Didn’t walk today cos the back was still sore but I ended up doing much needed housework. Bit of a shock to the system!!! My GP has said alcohol is a good relaxant so I’m going to be horizontal soon. 🙂

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    1. Oh, you organised person! I have to admit I sometimes forget even the water. Camera and pair of eyes are my priorities, I’m ashamed to admit 🙂 🙂 And you could use the basket to carry things? Actually mr. cheerful basket seller was right at the end of our walk. 🙂

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  15. Looks very sunny and dry but love the pomegranates. A circular walk looks a good idea. Think there has been quite a bit of rain by now, much needed. One of our favourite walks near Cabanas has been fenced off. Must post about it soon but busy in London…

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  16. Pingback: Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Geelong-Foreshore – WoollyMuses

    1. I didn’t take so many photos as I often do, Gerry, or I’d have been left far behind with no idea which way’s home! Disadvantages of being with the group. 🙂 So I thought the video was a useful addition. Yes- nice to remember warmth 🙂

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  19. Another walk I long to take – water and a rocky landscape and trees and an uncobbled path. I absolutely love the vivid whiteness of that first shot. And I’m sending the cat to my catophile friend if I may. I hope you’re feeling better my dear, and not pushing too hard through pain to keep the faith with your Monday walk. Snowy hugs.

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    1. Snowy hugs!!!! 🙂 Oo-er! The twins will be licking flakes again on their way to school. Fabulous! Sorry, darlin’, I wasn’t ignoring your earlier remark but it was a major struggle to get the walk up this morning. The back is much easier but yesterday my knee became hugely inflamed. I think the GP may win in the end. Mick has just set off, sniffling, to join this week’s UK walkers but I’m staying home. Love you, Meg! Have a great day 🙂

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