Jo’s Monday walk : Souter Lighthouse

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My part of the north east coast of England is littered with lighthouses!  The jagged coastline traditionally needed the big guys to flash a warning to passing ships.  Times have changed, but the coastline remains as rugged as ever.

Souter Lighthouse was the first in the world to be designed and built specifically to use alternating electric current.  The lighthouse opened in 1871, and was decommissioned in 1988.  It continued as a radio navigation beacon until 1999, when it was finally closed. Today the National Trust own the property and open it to the public.

It’s only a couple of weeks since I was at Roker lighthouse, on a properly murky day.  This walk heads north from there, along the cliffs to the magnificent lighthouse at Souter.  There’s a long promenade backing the fine stretch of beach, perfect for galloping horses.  A straggle of charming houses follow the bay.  I’m tempted to take a seat.

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Did you spot the fish restaurant sign?  Latimers boast smoked haddock, leek and potato pasties.  Noted, for later.  A sign on the cliff top claims 6 and three-quarter miles to the Tyne Ferry.  We won’t be going that far.  The smooth expanse of beach left behind, below us rocks scatter the shoreline. Fascinating grooves and grottoes hug the cliff’s base.  The potential for shipwreck is easy to see.

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Ahead, in the grass, a stone circle has been formed, not unlike a maze.  I don’t understand its significance, but there are old military bunkers nearby. The track is a little slippy from recent rain and, peering at the rock formations below, I lose my footing.  No damage done!  But, looking at the seat of my jeans, I realise that I’m not quite presentable enough for a restaurant.  I hope you weren’t looking forward to that pastie.

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My favourite part of the walk lies ahead.  The stacks teeter at the water’s edge, harbouring only gulls on lookout duty.  A first glimpse of Souter’s flamboyant red appears on the horizon.  Nearing, I can see the indentations in the rock face, and the stranded islets, clinging to shore.

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And then the cove known as The Wherry.  In former times there was a Lad’s Wherry and a Lassie’s Wherry, for fishing expeditions and picnics in the bay.  A central rock split the bay in two.  Nowadays, in part due to erosion, the sea separates the rock from the shoreline at high tide.

Souter lighthouse is about 3 miles south of the River Tyne.  Beyond the river, 7 miles to the north, St. Mary’s lighthouse at Whitley Bay is a sister Victorian lighthouse to Souter.  With good visibility, the one can be seen from the top of the other.

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I love the sound of a foghorn but, were I married to a mariner, the sound would fill me with dread.  The Souter foghorn has seen several incarnations, and is still occasionally sounded on special event days at the lighthouse.

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Souter lighthouse was revolutionary.  Quoting from Wikipedia, “the 800,000 candle power light was generated using carbon arcs and not an incandescent light bulb, and could be seen for up to 26 miles.  In addition to the main light a red/white sector light shone from a window in the tower below the lantern, to highlight hazardous rocks to the south; it was powered using light diverted (through a set of mirrors and lenses) from the landward side of the main arc lamp.”  As Souter was never automated, it remains pretty much in its original operational state.  I thought that this might make a good subject for Paula’s Traces of the Past.

The grassed area north of Souter was once a thriving mining community of 700 people.  It was completely demolished after the mine closure in 1968, and the population rehoused in new council housing in Whitburn.  A brief history of Souter can be found on the National Trust website, along with details of opening times and how to get there.

Now I know that you will be worrying about your stomach by now.  Latimers having been ruled out, I’m glad to inform you that the lighthouse has its own very pleasant cafe.  Would you like to try a ‘Singing hinnie’?  A warm griddle scone.

Sadly I cannot take you into the lighthouse.  It was half term on my visit and very busy, I’m pleased to say.  Maybe another time?  You might also like my Roker Pier walk.  I’m up to my second cup of coffee this morning, after a spectacular sunrise. Please put the kettle on and join me in a visit to some great blogs.walking logo

Many thanks to all of you who contributed this week.  I’m really happy you can still find time to join me.  For any newcomers, you can find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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Amy finds the perfect bench for Jude, while I just laze on the beach!

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Finishing with spectacular beauty in Hawaii!  I’ve told Carol I’m green  🙂

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Thanks again, everyone!  I love having your company.  Have a great week!  If you’re needing some travel inspiration, pop over to Monday Escapes. See you there!

181 comments

  1. Phew, glad you made it to the cafe, I was sad to miss the restaurant. Imagine a whole community moved just like that and everything gone, apart from this lovely lighthouse. I have a fascination with them and my favourite is a tPortland Bill – nothing quite like squeezing your way to the top and looking out. Beautiful atmospheric photos, Jo and it looks almost Spring-like!

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  4. Beautiful lighthouse and the red and white reminds me of my beloved one in Umhlanga Rocks. Yes, I’ll definitely try one of those Singing Hinnies. So glad no harm was done except to your dignity when you slipped, Jo. 🙂

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  11. I love lighthouses and stacks so this post was the perfect antidote for a wet Tuesday morning. I used to live two minutes from a harbour and when you mentioned the foghorn that brought back the sound so clearly. As well as the chilly fog the noise of the horn going off every few minutes was so irritating – but obviously very necessary.

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    1. Damp here too, Suze, but the sun just trying to fight its way through. Off to Dad’s soon to clean so it matters not. Traumatic morning began with a phone call from our son, who had been shunted by another car. His first involvement in an accident so he’s a bit shook up. As are we 😦 The ups and downs of life! Will try to pop over to yours later today. Take care! 🙂

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  12. What a wonderful coastline, Jo! And you walk with such energy and enthusiasm! My mother used to cook Singin’ Hinnies for us when we got home from school sometimes – I loved them, and I’m feeling nostalgic now….

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    1. I thought you might, Sue 🙂 I already mentioned that to Anabel, who used to live in the area too. 🙂
      Incidentally, does all that pale blue in my opening lighthouse shot constitute ‘negative space’? It doesn’t only apply to black and white photography, does it?

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      1. The pale blue in the opening lighthouse shot does, indeed, constitute ‘negative space’, Jo….and the concept applies to photography generally. Apropos my time in the north, it was only a few years as a student….but my mother was a northerner, hence the singing Hinnies……

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  14. I have really enjoyed this walk. I am a fan of rugged beaches and lighthouses. We have a few lighthouses close to where I live and I try to visit as often as possible. One of them is open to the public once a month. I have not visited yet.

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  17. Well you can always tempt me with a lighthouse. Long before I set sail, I was drawn to the sea, the lighthouses were calling me. And this one is absolutely magnificent. That first shot is especially AMAZING. And oh, those views. Hugs from Sydney.

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    1. Thanks a lot, sweetheart 🙂 There’s something magnificent about them, isn’t there? Glad I’ve got the photos and a cuppa this morning cos it’s wet and miserable here 😦 (though inside for a Singing hinnie would be good, come to think of it 🙂 )

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  18. I thoroughly enjoyed this bracing sea adventure, Jo. Your photos are so extensive I could almost smell the briny sea air! I really like the arch rocks, and the picturesque coastal activity–lighthouses and ships, craggy coastline. Enjoyed seeing the fish sign too (kippers).

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  19. It looks a great walk – love the looking up at the lighthouse shot. And those chairs are just perfectly placed aren’t they – glad there was cake at the end, that always helps I think 🙂 #mondayescapes

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  20. I love lighthouses! They make for such interesting walks. Not just the area around them, but all the way to the tippy top. I’m new to your Monday Walks – looking forward to checking back each week 🙂 Here’s a link to the latest walk I did in southern Florida.

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