Jo’s Monday walk : Barbakan and the City Walls

It's like something from a fairy tale, isn't it?

It’s like something from a fairy tale, isn’t it?

My head is still full of Poland and the Algarve seems like a distant dream, so for today’s walk I’m taking you strolling around the Planty and the Barbakan in Kraków.

I’m privileged to have visited this beautiful city a number of times, but this was the first time I’d ventured inside the Barbakan.  It was a grey day, with wisps of damp clinging to the trees, but Kraków is a hard city to despoil.  The soft shades of the lilac soothed the lushness of the green.  I had been dropped off in close proximity to Rynek Główny, the huge market square which lies at the heart of the old town, Stare Miasto.  Surrounding it, the Planty.  Trees, green lawns and gardens wrap gently around the bustling centre.  As I wandered, through the trees I spied a fountain.  An oasis of calm, till it’s spray leapt gaily into the air.

The fountain at play

The fountain at play

It’s lilac time
So soft and pretty
On a drier day you could sit and watch

A couple of sculptures caught my eye.  Tributes to Jan Matejko , a Polish painter of historical scenes, and Józef Bohdan Zaleski, a poet and songwriter.  The Planty replaced the city’s medieval walls, which were largely demolished after 1807, leaving the city’s main gate, Brama Florianska, the Barbakan and a couple of towers with connecting walls.  If you’re interested, this walk gives details of what can be found around the Planty.

Jan Matejko
Tribute to Zaleski
Brama Florianska, through the lilac

The original fortifications must have been an impressive sight.  Three kilometres of wall, 10 metres high and almost 3 thick, were interspersed with 47 towers and bastions.  Today Barbakan, just outside Florianska Gate, is a substantial remnant.  Dating from 1498, its design is Arab rather than typical of European defensive architecture of the period.  Stepping inside is a strange experience.  I was prepared to defend the city!

Click on an image to take the tour

The Barbakan exterior
Let’s step inside
Looking up
A loophole for arrows
There are information boards detailing the original structures
The towers were 50 metres apart- the distance of an effective bowshot
Looking out at Brama Florianska
Inside the structure
Looking in, towards the central courtyard
Or out, at Jan Matejko
And up at the 7 towers
Prepared for armed combat

Originally the fort, begun in the 13th century, was linked to the city walls by a covered passage, surrounded by a moat.  130 loopholes in the walls meant that even if the enemy forced their way in, they would then be trapped and shot at from all sides.  The entrance to the walls is through Baszta Pasamoników (Haberdashers’ Tower), at the eastern end of Ul. Pijarska, on Ul. Szpitalna. One ticket (currently 8 złoty, or 6 if, like me, you are emerytura, buys you admission to both Barbakan and the walls).    I have often looked up at the walkway and it was quite exciting to be inside, looking out.  A steady drizzle forced a sea of umbrellas, while I stayed smug and dry.

The Haberdasher’s Tower
Water, and the means of drawing it, was extremely important to the city
Looking out at a damp city
And along the walkway
Again, there are plenty of information boards
In both Polish and English language
I like the feeling of being above it all

For a few seconds it was necessary to step out into the light rain, to pass around Brama Florianska, but when I did so a delightful surprise awaited.  St. Florian’s gate is 33.50 metres tall and built of natural stone, capped by a metal ‘helmet’.

Out into the damp

Out into the damp

Looking down Ul. Florianska
Or into this beautiful tiny chapel
The details exquisite
In glorious colour
While this stained glass beauty looks on
The Mariacki Church, in the Rynek, beckons from beyond Ul. Florianska

The Mariacki Church, in the Rynek, beckons from beyond Ul. Florianska

The mighty Florianska Gate

The mighty Florianska Gate, with its ‘secret’ chapel

From street level the chapel, within Brama Florianska, is barely visible.  For me it was a grand finale, but the main entrance to the medieval city is just the beginning of the Royal Way.  This leads down Florianska into Rynek Główny, and continues along Grodzka to the magnificent castle and cathedral on Wawel Hill.

Florianska and the surrounding area is lined with restaurants and cafes so you will not have far to wander to rest those weary feet.  If you want something with a little character, Cafe Zakatek, featured in my 6WS, is through a narrow passage off Grodzka, just beyond the Rynek.

And there we have it- another Jo’s Monday walk.  If you’d like to join me, details can be found by clicking on my logo. The numerous links in the post will give you more background and history.

walking logo

In my absence many of you posted walks, and I already have a couple to share next week.  Thank you all for your enthusiastic support.  Please find the time to read these if you can.  You won’t be disappointed.  All you need is a big pot of kawa (or herbata!)

………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Beginning with a whoosh!  Thank you, Drake, for gladdening my heart :

Liquid forces

A fascinating boardwalk from Meg (who’s currently in Poland) :

Marrja boardwalk

Sounds rather wistful- like one of those boxes you rummage through :

Azalea Mall Remnants

Bluebonnets from Amy!  Catch ’em quick- they’re soon gone :

Monday walk: Texas Hill Country

A Vanishing Ice exhibition has to be interesting, don’t you think?

Vanishing

A seaside bench, or a romp with Oscar?  You’ll enjoy either- it’s Sherri!

A Walk with My Friend Oscar

A riverside walk?  Count me in!

The Thames Path- Little Wittenham to Oxford

Just a little more exotic?   Join Becky in the Algarve  :

In search of Chameleons

Tobias pays close attention to detail in this follow up  :

Kurhaus II

I’ve always felt ambivalent about Rome, but Indah’s fabulous post could persuade me  :

Rome by Sunset and Night walks

Did you ever hear the sound of a wild howler monkey?  No- nor me!  Thanks, Jaspa, for joining us.

Seeking Monkeys in an Ecuadorian rain forest

A new blog, to me, and a big welcome for a terrific post- please do read  :

New Frontiers and a Chocolate-covered Fish

Tish has been spying on canoodling pooties.  Go on- you know you want to!

Seeking Spring- and a walk on Wenlock’s Wild Side

And what a fabulous finale, and welcome home!  If you haven’t seen it, don’t miss this treat from Pauline  :

The Giant’s House in Akaroa

Thanks everybody!  I hope you have a great week of walking in the Spring sunshine (or showers). See you soon.

117 comments

  2. I really enjoyed this walk, Jo. The photos and information were very interesting, and I found the uniqueness of the fort and its features taking me back to a different time. It must be doubly so in person. 🙂

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    1. I hadn’t realised that there was a bit of the wall still intact till this trip, Jet, and the Barbakan was incredible. I almost felt I was fighting off the Tartar invasion myself 🙂 Glad you enjoyed it too. Many thanks for your company.

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  3. Well, wouldn’t you know it, my laptop is doing very strange things and the comment (below) that was meant to go here ended up on your previous post, so I’ve copied and pasted it here again. Thought I better explain so you didn’t think I had completely lost it…haha 😮

    Oh Jo, this is a fairytale land indeed. I just love this place and want to go! I’ve never been to Poland as you know, but at least I get to experience it’s fascinating history and beauty through your deligthful narrative and photographs. Looking forward to more and again, lovely to have you back home. Hugs 🙂

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    1. I would just blame WP, Sherri. That’s what I usually do 🙂 🙂 It’s a good-looking city and I keep discovering new bits of magic myself, so it’s always a joy to return. Thanks for your company, hon. I’m just subsiding into the ‘real world’. Not sure that I’m keen on it, really. Well- it’s ok in sunshine 🙂 Take care, hon. Exciting new developments with the writing? I’ll check later 🙂

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      1. Haha…yes, I blame a lot on WP, I have to admit 😉 It’s hard getting back to the real world isn’t it? After my brother was taken ill (but doing much better, phew), then going away to London and then Jersey, my writing and blogging has taken a huge hit and I’m so behind it’s not true. I can’t keep up at the moment, so am taking this time to make the rounds and catch up with everyone this way. So nothing exciting to report I’m afraid…but hopefully that’ll change, ha!! I hope you have a good rest of the week lovely lady… 🙂

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  4. Pingback: Force of Nature – walk with Jo | priorhouse blog

  6. Quite the medieval fort, Jo. You defended it well. 😊 The sculpture of the artist sitting in his frame is quite unique. Lovely place to visit and photograph. So many interesting views.

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    1. That knight wasn’t too far from chopping my head off, Lynne. I can’t have looked like a local 🙂 It is beautiful though and I was very happy to be there.

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  7. My ancestral family is from there and I had the pleasure to visit in 1999. I very much enjoyed my second ‘visit’ there today through your lens Jo! I love the sites framed by the lilacs (my first visit was in December so those blooms were a real treat this time around). And I love the vibrant colors against the muted tones. The details in that tiny chapel were ridiculously gorgeous :-). Am looking forward to joining you on futures walks when I arrive in Fiji and hope to have a few of my own to share! Cheers!

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  8. another lovely walk, Jo! thank you for the tour! beautiful pictures and interesting facts as always! yes, the first picture looks like from a fairy tale book! 🙂

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  9. I hope someday I will visit Kraków. I can see it from your post as a city with arts and historical buildings. Thank you for the walk and also the mention! Have a fantastic week!

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      1. Really? So jealous, I’ve never been there so thanks for taking me there with your post 🙂

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      3. Oh wow! That’s impressive, big family. I’ve been told about Poznan being beautiful in terms of architecture too!

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  11. Beautiful post, Jo ….. I have heard so much about Krakow – only good … and your walk have sealed that. Suppose to be a beautiful city with plenty of beautiful old building. Can see that not the weather wasn’t on your side all days. I hope your dad is back safely in UK:
    By the way I’m going to visit Warsaw for 5 nights in July – got great deals on flights and hotel. Paying only about £260 total. Very excited .. never been. Have a very good friend there that I haven’t seen for years now, hopefully we will get a chance to meet up. Lost her email address, but hopefully somebody else I know has it.

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    1. Brilliant, Vivi! Another busy year 🙂 🙂 Warsaw and Krakow have very different natures (north v south, a bit like England 🙂 ) Is this your first trip to Poland? How exciting!!! Hugs, darlin 🙂

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      1. No, I been to Gdansk och Gdynia. I have promise Sue that I will go back to Warsaw with her next year – maybe Krakow is more interesting for her and her camera. Soon is it time for Bristol. Not fare away.

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      2. Oh heck! I haven’t thought yet about Bristol! 🙂 I have Norfolk first, with Dad, to more Polish cousins, and now another Polish wedding in September. When will I fit Tavira in again? 🙂 🙂 Hugs!

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      3. I’m so looking forward to Bristol – you are more busy than me … those days. Good for you!!!!!! Tuesday hugs … grey and wet. *smile …. coming from a hot girl … they are very steamy. *laughing.

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      4. Yesterday I was in bluebell woods in Durham with the walkers. Totally fabulous! Today I dragged Mick over the Moors to Staithes on the coast. A stay-at-home rest of week 😦 😦 Love a bit of steam 🙂

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      5. Bluebells …. I love them …. the forest just before arriving into Portpatrick was always cover in blue mat. One of the things I really miss from UK. I hope there will be be a bluebell post. *smile – I like steam too.

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      6. Sue posted some, and I’m just off to see Gilly’s (Lucid Gypsy- in the comments 🙂 ) Must do some housework, one of these days 🙂

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  12. The buildings were certainly built to last in days gone by and that formidable warrior would scare you away. Such a variety Jo I loved this wander round in the rain with you. and Thank you for the link your cyber walking group is growing…

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    1. Yes, I do enjoy my cyber walking company, Pauline. I don’t want too many links because then people won’t find time to visit, but often we ‘know’ each other anyway. I just hope people visit the people they don’t know.
      I really enjoyed pulling all the information together for this post, so I’m glad you enjoyed it. 🙂

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      1. Yes I do enjoy walking with all the others Jo, most weeks I manage to get around them. But as you know when on the road it is hard to keep up. I am enjoying my time at home now for a few months.

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    1. A little damp round the edges, Sue, but nothing serious. I’ll not return to Poland without an umbrella again, though 🙂 We had a monster thunderstorm when we were on the motorway back from Belchatow. Couldn’t see the road for the wipers whizzing! An umbrella would have been totally useless 🙂 Thanks for your company!

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  14. I’ve only ever thought of Krakow for a pre Christmas warmer Jo but you’ve opened my eyes to its other charms not least the Planty . All that history too ..some serious fortifications in a walled city …just love those turrets ! A great walk round with your photos Jo 🙂

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    1. Thank you very much, Karen 🙂 I try for variety with my walks posts, but it really depends where I’ve been. There’s so much to choose from in Krakow, but yesterday I was bluebell walking in the woods at Durham. No idea yet how those photos have turned out. 🙂

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      1. Oh, bluebells are lovely! I miss them. I had a couple of favourite spring walks when I lived in London that featured masses of bluebells.
        In 10 days I’m off to Canada and the US for three weeks, so will have some walks to contribute to your Monday posts — once I wade through the thousands of photos. 😦

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  20. Since I have never been to Poland I really enjoy tagging along with you on your walks here. As you know I love to learn a bit about the history and architecture of a place and you even squeezed in a park and some fragrant lilac! Very nice. I shall put the coffee on and then have a wander through the other walks 🙂

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      4. I’m ahead of you 🙂 I already have it pasted into my next Monday’s walk, though I haven’t written the walk yet. Not even sure where we might go 🙂 Cheers, Jude.

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      5. And I am way behind in visiting people – haven’t got around to the walks on your site yet! Maybe I’ll do better tomorrow 🙂

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      6. It’s called ‘having a life’ isn’t it? 🙂 I gather the weather is beautiful down your way? Go enjoy it! I’ll be cooking Sunday lunch etc.

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