Jo’s Monday walk : Regent’s Canal

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You might remember that last week I left Judith from London Walks standing beside Hampstead Road Lock.  We were about to plunge into the cornucopia of wonder and excitement that is Camden Market.  Why don’t you come with us?

Judith in the midst of the market

Judith in the midst of the market

It's all about the stables!

It’s all about the stables!

One of the things that I hadn’t been aware of on my previous visits to Camden Market was the existence of The Stables.  Possibly because I am more drawn to the canal than to market stalls.

Before the advent of the motor car, all of London relied on horse drawn carriages for transport.  A huge number of stables were required to house these horses.  Many were associated with the canal trade, and The Stables Market is located in Pickford’s, the hauliers, former stables and the Grade II listed Horse Hospital.  The latter served sick and injured horses which pulled the distribution vans and barges.  The scale of the enterprise can be seen in this excerpt from Camden Railway Heritage Trust.

Today the vaulted arches have been transformed into a number of chic sales units and some of the former stalls are now a party venue.  The power of the bronze horse sculptures dominate the market in a way that is hard to capture. Despite the crowds that regularly throng the area and the numerous fast food outlets, I would urge you to seek them out if you’re in the area.

One of many proud horse sculptures

One of many proud horse sculptures

The Stables Market

The Stables Market

A moving tableau of horses

A moving tableau of horses

I could have stayed taking photos in The Stables Market all day, but the tour was coming swiftly to an end.  I just had time to snatch a last couple of shots.

When I reluctantly left Judith, I hoped to catch the Waterbus for the next stage of my journey, to Little Venice.  At 1pm the food stalls were all heaving and as I shrugged my way through them, I realised that the crew of the Waterbus had also declared lunch hour.  But the sun was still on my shoulder, and the lure of the towpath simply too strong.

Time to escape the crowds

Time to escape the crowds

A spot of lunch might be nice!

A spot of lunch might be nice!

The Feng Shang Floating Chinese Restaurant did look very appealing, but I hadn’t the time.  I did find a very nice empty bench, though, in prime position to admire it.  I rested my tired back and snacked on some fruit as I looked at my canal guide to check what lay ahead.  Not far along the towpath I could see one of the aviaries of Regent’s Park Zoo.

Regent Park's Zoo

Regent Park’s Zoo

I joined the spectators admiring the antics of the birds, and wondered if perhaps I might make time for a look into Regent’s Park.  It’s many years since I’ve been there but, regretfully, I let it go.  How was I to know that Debbie would take me there this week?  For now, I was approaching Lord’s Cricket Ground and the prime real estate of St. John’s Wood and Maida Vale.

Time to choose a mansion?

The wintry trees reflected in the canal

Time to choose a mansion?

Time to choose a mansion?

Even upside down they look good!

Even upside down they look good!

A bench with a view, Jude?

A bench with a view, Jude?

At this point I have to leave the canal temporarily while it burrows through Maida Hill Tunnel. The way ahead is not immediately obvious, but by dint of a couple of roadside maps and checking with passers by, I manage to rejoin it. I’m now just a short distance from my final destination.

Soon I'm back among the boats

Soon, I’m back among the boats

Life on a canal wouldn't be so bad!

Life on a canal wouldn’t be so bad, would it?

One last bridge to pass beneath

One last bridge to pass beneath

The sight I have been waiting for

The sight I have been waiting for, Little Venice

Little Venice is a triangular stretch of water, also known as Browning’s Pool, after the Victorian poet Robert Browning, who lived near by.   It marks the junction of Regent’s Canal with the Paddington arm of the Grand Union Canal.  I am delighted to spot the Waterside Cafe nestled at the canal side and even happier to treat myself to an unexpected pastel de nata with my coffee. The Portuguese custard tart was the last thing I expected to find on an English canal.

Satisfied, I cross over the bridge and look wistfully at the stretch of canal lying ahead of me.  My time has run out and I know that I must leave the Puppet Theatre and the floating art gallery for another visit.  But today I have conquered 5 miles of London’s watery world, and enjoyed having Judith broaden my knowledge of Camden Town.

A last look at the sun dappled water

A last look at the sun-dappled water

Doesn't it look wonderfully peaceful?

Doesn’t it look wonderfully peaceful?

If you were with me for To Camden and beyond last week, you’ll know that I’ve been watching ‘Great Canal Journeys’, with Timothy West and Prunella Scales.  The series ended last night, with the Lothian Canal in Scotland. I’m not so very far from the Scottish Borders and I’m now determined to see the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies for myself.  If you missed this excellent series you can still find it on YouTube.

You’ll probably find me, walking somewhere, next week.  Please do join me, if you can.

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Our Easter weather’s been pretty good for getting out and about, so I’m hoping you’ll have lots of walks to share with me this week.  Details of how to join in are on my Jo’s Monday walk page or simply click on the logo above.  Time to settle in with a cuppa and enjoy my shares this week. Many thanks to all of you!

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What could be a better accompaniment to this week’s walk?  Perfect timing, Debbie!

Take a Walk in Regent’s Park

The loveliest Robin photo I’ve seen in a while.  Thanks, Drake!  A bird friend?

Out of Nowhere

Lots more street art from Geoff!  Do you have a favourite?

Dulwich Street Art- part 3 

Also featured on last night’s ‘Great Canal Journeys’ was the Antonine Wall.  Many thanks, Anabel! I’d never heard of it before :

The Antonine Wall

Tobias’ offering this week is full of the gravitas of Good Friday  :

Festung Ehrenbreitstein 

And lastly, it’s my very great pleasure to share the amazing graphics of an old friend.  Please welcome Jake!

Roald Dahl

That’s it for this week!  I hope you’ve had a great Easter break and I hope to catch up with you all soon.

141 comments

  1. Oh, I could get lost in a place like this for hours, and then make an escape to the beautiful canals for the rest of the day. Thank you for the tour, I would LOVE to return to London and have a visit for myself someday. 🙂

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    1. Thank you so much for spending time with me today, Elisa! I really appreciate it 🙂 Always somewhere new and wonderful to visit, isn’t there? I really enjoyed your company 🙂

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  2. Wow Jo, this was a neat walk. I was amazed at the horse history, wonderful architecture and those beautiful buildings dotting the watery way, but I was also intrigued by the houseboats and can’t imagine living on one. This was my kind of walk, the sites and sounds of the canal that you captured made me feel like I was walking right along side you. Have a wonderful week!

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  3. Next time I am in London I will not miss the Regent’s Park Zoo or Little Venice. This is beautiful and full of charm. Thank you for the stroll, Jo.

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    1. Hi Paula 🙂 I must have just missed you this morning. I went chasing daffodils (and sheep 🙂 ) on the York Moors and am just back. Glad of your company, as always, and thank you for the token 🙂

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  4. Hey Jo that was a great photographic walk . It’s amazing how another person can see so many different sights somewhere one has visited already . I’m not sure I took too much notice of the *horse connection either ! You certainly covered some ground . I love the canal boats … always look so appealing .. well, in good weather of course although with a little wood burner one could be cosy . We took a couple of holidays along the canal du midi some years ago it was fantastic . Always a lock round the corner mind .. and I’m not sure I would be so nifty jumping onto the bank with the rope nowadays 😀

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    1. That was one of the noticeable things with Prunella Scales, Poppy-that she was hesitant getting on and off. 😦 And you know how clumsy I am! There’d be many a ducking! Ugh- I bet that canal water tastes vile! You’re right- I’ve completely gone off the notion 🙂 🙂

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  5. I really enjoyed this walk Jo, I’d forgotten how pretty some of those canals are, so thanks for the refresher! Life on a barge on the canals sounds very tempting.

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  6. Having only spent a few days in London last year it is clear there is so much more to see. Thank you for this beautiful tour. It looks like spring is arriving. I loved the reflections you captured in the canals Jo. Wishing you a great day!

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    1. Thanks, Sue 🙂 This was back in January when I had my 2 day flying visit. I spent 4 years there when I was a youngster and I still didn’t get around all of it. Can’t really have been trying 🙂 Of course, I did have to work for a living then, too 🙂 Hope you had a lovely time with the folks!

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  7. The stable history is fascinating, Jo. I could spend hours there, but, like you, I would have to walk the canals. You take me to places I’ve never been and I so look forward to that. 🚶🏃🚶

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  8. What a charming piece of history to re-purpose The Stables. I love that part of visiting new places. I’d be escaping the crowds, too, and probably walk right by you on the canal path 😋. The willows by my pond are showing that distinct yellow right now as they are in your photos – soon to turn to green as leaves cover the branches.

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      1. Ours don’t get bright yellow until the green shoots are ready to pop. It’s crazy ‘cuz one day I look and they’re yellow and the next day they’ve all gone to pure green with no in-between. I often wonder if I stared for 24-hours non-stop would I catch the switch being turned or would I see some interim shades.

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