Jo’s Monday walk : Fortaleza de Sagres

The Wind Compass in Sagres fort

The Wind Compass, inside the fort at Sagres

When we started our epic journey, I had the west coast of the Algarve firmly in mind.  Known for its cooling breezes on warmer days and its wild stretches of Atlantic facing beach, I planned a visit to the Costa Vicentina.  Unfortunately, by the time we had completed last Monday’s walk at the Barragem de Bravura and our sojourn at Figueira beach, it was already mid afternoon.

The uppermost thing in our minds was a drink.  Water, wine, orange juice- almost anything would have done by this stage!  So, what did I end up with?  A tin of Sagres, the locally brewed beer.  I am not, by nature, a beer or lager drinker, but the popping of the can was bliss to my ears. Parking the car on the clifftop at Sagres, we almost ran downhill to the nearest kiosk.  Michael selected his favourite, Fanta orange, and sat, staring vacantly at yet another beach.

The town beach at Sagres, with the Fortaleza in the distance

Mareta, the town beach at Sagres, with the Fortaleza in the distance

I had planned to call at Sagres on my way back from the Costa Vicentina.  The last time I had been, it was a chilly, overcast day, early in the year.  Not today!

The town has an interesting history and is closely linked to Henry the Navigator, who set up a nautical school locally.  He helped to finance the Portuguese voyages of discovery, and by the time of his death, in 1460, landings had already been made at Sierra Leone in Africa.  An amazing achievement for the tiny caravels!  The Sagres link above takes you to Wikipedia, for some details.

Having got a second wind, it was time to stroll through the town and along the Rua de Fortaleza, the approach to the mighty fortress.  Of course, Michael wanted to know why we couldn’t just have parked in the enormous parking bays beside the fort.  Where’s the drama in that?

The Rose Compass

The Rose Compass, or sundial

The approach to the fortress walls
Details of the Rose Compass
The church of Senhora da Graca
Inside the simple church

Inside the simple church

The beautifully peeling bell tower
The original church plan
The padrao

The purpose of the Rose Compass is a little uncertain.  It may well have been a navigational aid, or just a sundial.  The setting is undeniably powerful.  Soaring cliffs drop away on either side of you, as you gaze out at the open sea.

Work on the huge battlements is ongoing, and not entirely sympathetic, but I found myself moved my the place.  A path leads out around the headland, with majestic views.

The shoreline crumbles beneath you

The shoreline crumbles beneath you

The canon still poised, ready!

With canon still poised, ready!

In the far distance, Cabo S. Vicente lighthouse- the most westerly spot in Europe

Far distant Cabo S. Vicente lighthouse- the most westerly spot in Europe

The beacon, closer to hand

The beacon, closer to hand

Yellow polka dots strewn among the plummy aliums

Yellow polka dots mingle with the plumy aliums

The view back to Mareta, and beyond

The view back to Mareta beach

The feet were tiring as we headed back through the hefty tunnel entrance.  Tiny Praca da Republica, the main square, has a choice of restaurants with outdoor tables.  ‘A Cabana’ suited us nicely.  I imagined it would be a lively spot on an evening but it was time for the drive home.  It had been quite a day! walking logo

Even as I was taking this walk, I just knew it had to be one of my Jo’s Monday walks.  What I could never have imagined is what took place last week.  On Sunday, 30th June, I received a walk from Christine at Dadirridreaming, back in Australia after a wonderful European holiday.  She and Stuart had taken the walk up Glastonbury Tor one rainy day on their visit to England.   We joked about the weather!

In this virtual world of ours, it’s easy to miss comments sometimes.  Christine’s last comment to me, on 1st July, I didn’t spot.  She was advising me that I should link my walking logo to my Jo’s Monday walk page, as she had done.  I have, Christine.  I have!  How very typical of this dearly loved woman, and I’m in tears again as I share this with you.

http://dadirridreaming.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/glastonbury-tor/

It’s hard to follow that, isn’t it?  But when you have some time, please return here and share the walks of my other contributors last week.  There are some very fine ones.

Drake takes us to beautiful Berchtesgarten  :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/on-the-edge-of-the-bavarian-alps/

It was wonderful to have been joined this week by Laura.  And only 3 weeks after back surgery, that’s impressive!  : http://telltaletherapy.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/walkabout-1-st-margarets-to-rye-house-circular/

Jude took me down Memory Lane with a glorious evening stroll around Derwentwater  : http://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/a-lakeside-evening-stroll/

You will certainly not have ‘the blues’ when you see Elisa’s post!  It made my heart skip  : http://elisaruland.com/2014/06/29/hiking-shorts-the-pacific-blues/

A friend you may not know, Kat, has introduced me to beauty and thrills in Corsica.  It’s one not to miss  : http://www.thecorsicablog.co.uk/2012/09/hiking-la-restonica/

And last, but never least, Yvette has gone on a Summer break, but not without leaving me a great post : http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/07/02/walking-in-rva-street-portraits-3/

It’s been an emotional week, hasn’t it?  I’m off out walking very soon but will catch up with you all this evening.  Have a good week my friends.

103 comments

  1. I really enjoy the landscape the seashore views! The shoreline crumbles image is great. Thank you for the historical background, Jo! I’ll be working on my walk post 🙂

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    1. No hurry at all, Amy 🙂 You know it won’t ‘appear’ till next Monday. Just happy if you like my walks. You don’t always have to take part, especially when you’re short of time. Lots of hugs to you!

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  3. Thank heavens you were saved by the beer and were able to have the strength to carry on to take us on this walk. Love your variety of photos. What a week it has been for you and many others Jo. I hope you are finding peace in your walks and time to reflect and remember.

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    1. Physically I was out on the cliff tops at Whitby, down the north east coast,this morning Sue, and it was beautiful. I expect you’ll see it in a week or two 🙂
      Yes. this was a very strange post to put together, but I hope I got the balance right. I think Christine would have loved this walk because she was so interested in history as well as nature. It’s one that we might have done together if we’d managed to meet in the Algarve.

      Thanks, Sue 🙂 I appreciate your support.

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      1. I think Christine would have liked it very much Jo. It warms my heart thinking of the two of you walking together. Who are we to say that she wasn’t with you in some way.

        Careful on those cliff tops Jo. Hate to have any unforseen falls from there. You might get a reputation for doing all kinds of crazy adventures. 🙂

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    1. It is quite a fascinating place, when you scratch the surface, Colline. The Algarve isn’t just beaches, as people are often tempted to think. 🙂 That’s part of why I like it so.

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    1. If you follow the Wikipedia links, Viv, I don’t think this is how it looked originally, and it may not even have been in this exact situation. There may well have been gnomon. 🙂 But it’s an interesting site anyway.

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  6. Another lovely walk in the Algarve. Did you drive down to the lighthouse then Jo? You surely never walked all that way? Poor old Michael, he has a lot to put up with 😉

    Mine this week for you is another walk in a garden (Scottish this time) – very peaceful, with a lovely Tibetan Buddha, a peace pinnacle and a meditating sculpture. RIP Christine.

    http://wp.me/p3jVw4-Ne

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    1. I thought I might not have made that clear, Jude. The ‘beacon’ in my photo is within the grounds of the fortaleza, which are huge. The lighthouse at Cabo S. Vicente is a much grander affair and is 6kms away. You can actually walk there but on this occasion enough was enough. I didn’t even suggest driving there to Michael. I know that look!

      I have been to S. Vicente quite some time ago, with my daughter and Leo, on a coach trip, so Mick hasn’t seen it. I have a few photos somewhere. Maybe next time we’ll visit, if we make it up the Costa Vicentina. I love that wild coast but once you turn north the roads get much slower. It needs a weekend. Another one! 🙂 🙂
      Thanks a lot for the walk 🙂 I’ll be over later. Yes, this was a strange one to do because of Christine’s post. I was half tempted just to feature her walk today and not post one but I had a strange feeling that Christine would have really loved this one if we’d managed to meet in the Algarve. Sorry for the verbose reply, Jude 🙂

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  7. Another gorgeous walk Jo. I love the photo collage with the bell tower. The blue and white always calls to me. 🙂 I see from your comment above that you’re heading back in September – should be beautiful then too! ~Terri

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    1. You and Andrew Petcher, both 🙂 You’re in good company, Terri!
      The sun actually shone this morning on my north east coast walk too. Win, win, situation!
      Take care 🙂

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  8. What a fascinating place…love the wind and rose compass’s especially. Your photos of the the views and beaches are always stunning. The church looks very similar to those we visited in Crete.
    Oh I need a holiday…!! But you will be pleased to know that hubby and I are off for a week to rural France to stay with our friends there at the end of month so looking forward to that!
    Oh Jo…what a week it was. A great idea to link up to your Monday Walks page with your logo from your dear friend Christine…
    I hope you have a peaceful week ahead my friend 🙂

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    1. I already had that logo linked to my walks page, Sherri, because I think that’s the idea behind logos. I was just so touched that Christine took the trouble to point it out, and that she had adopted the logo on her Glastonbury Tor walk. That really is a matter for the individual. I don’t always use them myself, but it is so like Christine. Such a lovely lady!

      Yes, you definitely need a holiday! 🙂 Where is your nearest town in France?
      I was walking on the cliffs at Whitby today. It was beautiful 🙂 A happy week to you!

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      1. Yes, I do remember seeing your logo. I’ll remember that next time I post a walk 😉
        The nearest town is called Tocane, we are about 20 miles from Brantome. There is also Lille nearby, but not the big city! It is beautiful there. I’ll be posting some pics from previous visits soon…!
        How lovely, Whitby Abbey is beautiful and the cliffs there. You will have some super shots, look forward to it!
        Thanks Jo, you have a good week too 😀

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    1. This was a strange one to do, Ann. I wasn’t sure whether not to post a walk and just feature Christine’s. Strangely though, I had the feeling that this would be a walk that she would have loved had we been able to meet up in the Algarve. 🙂

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  10. A lovely monday mind clearing walk Jo from the comfort of my sofa 🙂
    Do like the coast line with those tumbled rocks … and that sure is one huge compass !
    Have good week Jo x

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    1. Thanks, Poppy 🙂 No ‘surprises’ this week, I hope.
      I was actually walking on the Whitby coast this morning and it was a bit more bracing than the Algarve, but still very beautiful. I’m stockpiling walks for rainy days 🙂 Have a good one, too x

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  11. Looks like you had a wonderful day here Jo, beautiful weather and wonderful views. The day we traveled to Cape St. Vincente was a little bit different, Margaret was very concerned that our car would blow into the sea from the cliff top. Would be nice to go back and experience weather like yours 🙂

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    1. If only I could recommend, David. We are back on 1st September and are expecting fantastic weather, but you can never be sure these days. It will probably be too warm for much exploration.
      Stockpiling walks at the minute. We were in Whitby with the walkers today and it was beautiful till about 2, when the heavens opened, but we’d finished the walk. 🙂 When are you away again?

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  12. it was Christine who inspired me to join up with you and your walking Jo – and so she will be with us every step of the way in future. (and thanks for being the hub for other walkers – will check them out)
    Remiss this week with legs and camera combined but will join again am sure – meanwhile had to check this amazing place on the map – that surely is far south! you’ve captured some stunning views

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    1. The Algarve coastline is so varied, Laura. Rugged at this end and much flatter with salt marshes in the East. Something for everyone with lots of history mixed in. I think Christine would have loved this walk.
      Thank you for joining me. It’s the support that counts. Walk with me any time you want, or can 🙂

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  13. A beautiful walk to start the week with lovely pictures! The first photo is a winner. Love this one Jo, now I am so looking forward that in Holland will have such fantastic weather too 🙂

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    1. We’ve had sunshine and thunderstorms here in the UK today, Indah 🙂 I don’t mind a bit of variety. Thanks a lot for your nice comments and shares.

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    1. I knew we had a common bond, Meg! 🙂 (or two!)
      This part of the coastline reminds me of some Australian beach shots I saw a while ago, with stacks in them. But then, Australia has rather a lot of coast 🙂
      Thanks, hon. Hope you have a fit and active week with the babes.

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  15. Had to laugh when I saw the title. I’ve visited the Fortaleza but my overpowering memory of Sagres is going for a drink. Like you we were thirsty so went to a bar for a beer and asked for some olives. I think that was about all there was to eat. They were grudgingly served, and the bar seemed rather hostile. We realised we had unwittingly invaded what seemed to be a German bar and they weren’t Anglophiles. Starting to shovel the olives in we noticed they were full of dead flies. Intentional? If so it worked. We left.

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    1. It’s definitely come up in the world these days, Rough 🙂 Don’t think I’d want to be there in the Summer though.
      Did you get to see any of TDF? The aerial shots were lovely, though the commentary was naff. He obviously knew all about cycling but nothing about Yorkshire. I thought of you! 🙂

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      1. It was nearly 20 years ago on our mega Spain, Gib, Morocco, Portugal trip. I can’t remember much apart from the Fortaleza and the dead flies.

        No 😦 I suppose I could look on YT but it’s the sort of thing better watched live. I think we ie Yks put on a good show though. Gods own country 🙂

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  17. Pingback: Age do charm | Le Drake Noir

    1. No, I’m actually going to the York Moors this morning to do a walk at Whitby, Tricia 🙂 The Monday walks are always at least a week behind, and I’ve been back from the Algarve about 4 weeks now. Back there on 1st September, but Paris first, for our Silver Wedding 🙂
      Lovely to see you on here! You’ll have to ‘walk’ with me sometime 🙂

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      5. Saturday, 9th August, Jude 🙂 Sunday we’ll be at Versailles because the fountains only play weekends. Tuesday, the anniversary day, we’ll be at Giverny (if it all goes to plan 🙂 ). Home Thursday. Flights booked but not the hotel yet. I’m dithering about where I want to be, and price is a factor. 🙂

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