Fish Annie’s song
I’ve been promising this particular walk for quite a long time. I hope you like it!
The Hartlepool Story Trail follows a sequence of 18 signs, crowned by a monkey. You’ll see why later. It traces the history of Hartlepool back to AD640, highlighting local landmarks along the way.
It’s a walk that I often do, paying no particular attention to the signs because my eyes are focussed on the sea. Hartlepool’s history is irretrievably mixed with the maritime and the walk starts midway along the promenade. Why, I really don’t know!
No. 1- the ‘Island of Harts’
The hart is a symbol of Hartlepool and appears throughout the town
It will be fairly obvious, I think, that I took some of these photos on different days. The sea is always a magnet to me, whether it’s thundering against the sea walls or softly licking the shore.
No. 2- ‘Fairy Cove’
A calm blue background for the monkey
This point marks the north eastern end of the town wall. The ‘Fairy Coves’ were man-made circular excavations, 5 metres in diameter, about 12 feet above the shore, and intended as ‘places of concealment’ for humans.
No. 3- Beacon and Town Moor
Today’s beacon, on a bluer day!
No. 4- Bandstand & Elephant Rock
Elephant Rock, which collapsed in 1891
- The bandstand still exists, though in rather dilapidated condition. Gone are the days when it witnessed street theatre, boxing matches and even motor bike racing time trials. Elephant Rock, sadly, is no more, but there are still numerous smaller stacks along the shoreline.
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No. 5- Lighthouse and Heugh Battery
The first lighthouse on this site dates from 1847 and was one of the world’s first to be operated by gas. It was dismantled during the First World War because its position prevented retaliatory fire from the Heugh Gun Battery, in the Bombardment of Hartlepool on 16th December, 1914.
The current lighthouse dates from 1926
You may have noticed the darkening sky, and my wonky photo, above. Rounding the lighthouse one day last week, I was met by a storm of hailstones, and this! Happily I wore a waterproof.
The sea was having fun!
Lots of fun! These photos are not in black and white.
As the sea lashed the promenade, I made a dash for the next sign, no.6- Cliff Terrace.
Some of the signs are quite weather worn. It’s no wonder!
No. 7, just off the seafront and a little more sheltered, rather strangely comes in two parts- ‘a’ and ‘b’. Billy Purvis, the subject of 7a and something of a jester, is buried in the grounds of nearby St. Hilda’s Church.
No. 7a- Billy Purvis
7b of course, is St. Hilda’s church, dating from 1190.
Pretty in snow, isn’t it?
So far this year, there’s been no snow in the north east. Hush! Don’t even think about it. Neither has it been paddling pool weather, but that’s where we’re going next.
No. 8- the ‘Paddling Pool’
One chilly monkey! What’s that saying? Brass monkeys?
As the sign says, we once boasted a handsome paddling pool set into the rocks beneath this promenade. I dimly remember it from my childhood, but in 1953 a tremendous storm hit the north east coast, and the damage was irreparable. There is a much tamer version of the paddling pool set into the lower promenade, and it continues to delight small persons in Summer.
No. 9- ‘Hartlepool Lifeboats’
Unthinkable that we could have a town without a lifeboat, and one has been in existence since 1803. The first cost just £300 to build locally, and was propelled by 10 oars.
No. 10- ‘Fish Sands and the Monkey’
This is a crucial sign, and the one I started this post with, seen here on a hazy summer’s day. The sign includes the tale of the monkey-hanging, which no self-respecting Hartlepudlian can fail to know, though it doesn’t reflect well on us. Allegedly, during the Napoleonic Wars, a severe storm hit a French vessel off the coast of Hartlepool. Following the wreck of the ship a sole survivor, a nautically attired monkey, was washed ashore on the Fish Sands. Being unfamiliar with monkeys and naturally suspicious of the French, the people of Hartlepool decided to hang this “Frenchman” as a spy, and have been trying to live it down ever since.
No. 11- ‘The Croft and Sandwell Chare’, with St. Hilda’s in the background
Sandwell Gate, leading to the beach- the prettiest bit of the town wall
The Croft Gardens now sit below St. Hilda’s Church (but beside Verrill’s Chip Shop- another famous landmark!) This was the site of the former old town, which was demolished in 1938.
No. 12- ‘Town Wall and Chalybeate Spring’
Amazing to think that our pretty Town Wall, which has often been admired as my former header, has stood firm against elements and enemies since 1322. ‘Chalybeate Spring’ was a thriving Health Spa, said to cure indigestion and other ailments. Must have been the bracing sea air!
No. 14- ‘Middleton & Ferry Crossing’
Sadly I don’t remember the ferry, which stopped running in 1952, but I well remember Middleton and the dockland area.
The alert amongst you may have noticed a leap in the signs. No. 13 is absent because I simply couldn’t find it! Having got this far, in spite of inclement weather, I decided to terminate the walk. I already have more information than you can readily digest and I don’t want to bore.
If you are interested and stop to read every one of the signs, the walk will take you no more than an hour or two. There’s a map at the bottom of each sign so you can’t get lost. On a nice day there are plenty of spots to linger and just watch the sea, and the boats heading for harbour. If it rains I could recommend you to Mary Rowntree’s tearooms. A former chapel, it has been beautifully converted, and you will pass it on your route. Or you may be lucky enough to find St. Hilda’s open, and step inside. For background history, if you can’t get here, this is an excellent article.
So what did you think of this week’s walk? And, more importantly, do you have a walk you’d like to share with me? If you do, I’d be delighted if you could leave a link in the comments below. Or even link back to me from your post, if it’s a new one. I look forward to an evening’s reading.
You can join in too!
http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/03/31/jos-monday-walk-longwood-gardens/
http://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2013/03/12/strolling-around-the-ile-de-la-cite/
http://poppytump.wordpress.com/2014/03/31/clouds/
http://sonelcorner.wordpress.com/2014/04/01/jos-monday-walk-schoemansville-oewerclub/
http://55daysinwarsaw.wordpress.com/2013/09/17/a-walk-in-warsaw-rain/
http://morselsandscraps.wordpress.com//?s=Return+to+the+headland
http://morselsandscraps.wordpress.com//?s=A+photo+stroll+Sydney+CBD
restlessjo 
A beautiful walk Jo but I can totally see why you usually watch the ocean instead of the signs! The contrasts between beautiful blue skies and warm colors with the days that look like black and white really share what it feels like to walk in your seasons. 🙂
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Thanks, Lisa 🙂 Yes, it’s worth getting a bit damp for.
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Love this Hartlepool story trail, Jo. Thank you for this informative and interesting Monday walk! Amazing capture of the sea spray. I will have mine ready later today 🙂
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I’m totally worn out (and damp!) so will be happy to sit in my armchair and read, Amy 🙂 Many thanks, hon.
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A damn fine walk, Jo. Thanks for all the intriguing info and good sea air.
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Amazing the history there is to rootle out if you go looking, Tish, isn’t it? Thank you very much 🙂
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A beautiful walk Jo, well save for the hailstones! The sea looks very active that day. Too bad that the elephant rock couldn’t withstand the elements.
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Not as durable as me, Sue, but then, I haven’t been ‘sea bashed’ quite that much. 🙂
Are you home again, and worn out?
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We are back home Jo and feeling remarkably well. I don’t think we were gone long enough to have jet lag. I like these Monday walk posts Jo and hope to show some of our beautiful mountain walks in the summer.
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Wonderful! 🙂 On both counts!
I’m still thinking how best to ‘share’. Possibly put them all on my Restlessjo FB page. Take care.
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Thanks Jo. Have a great day! Now off to post a bit more on beautiful Scotland 🙂
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Your walks are so amazing. I really felt that sea spray. 🙂
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Funny that- so did I! 🙂 Sorry- not funny 🙂 Thank you very much.
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Growing up, I always wanted a pet monkey. 🙂 Great photos, Jo! I love the shots of the turbulent ocean. Thanks for the walk…I needed it on this cold Monday morning. 🙂
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You should live in Gibraltar, Jill 🙂 Glad of your company this morning. It was foggy and damp here.
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This is a walk I think I would do more than once Jo. I like that you showed us many moods of the sea – her moods are what makes her so beautiful.
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I’m over there quite often, Colline- whenever I haven’t got anything better to do in fact. It’s only 10 minutes from us, by car. Two buses, if I’m doing it the hard way, but that’s only because of it’s direction from our house. If I walked there it would take me 50 mins or so. Thanks for your company 🙂
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I will gladly join you anytime 🙂
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Beautifully written Jo, I am loving your Monday walks. We once used some of those signs as clues on a treasure hunt for the grandchildren 🙂
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That’s an excellent idea, David, and thank you very much. Nearly time to hide those Easter eggs. Hope the weather improves before then 🙂
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thanks for your lovely walk Jo, and all the history it shares … mine is much more simple http://dadirridreaming.wordpress.com/2014/03/31/jos-monday-walk-swimming-on-the-bingie-dreaming-track/
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Bless you, Christine! Thanks so much for your share. 🙂 I’ve just come in from walking (damply again!) so will put the kettle on and join you shortly.
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What a wonderfully entertaining and invigorating walk Jo, I thoroughly enjoyed it – your fab photos – love the ones of the wild sea especially – and reading about the fascinating history as we walked along the Hartlepool Story Trail. I was drawn into the story about the monkey and was amazed to read the ‘why’! I never knew that so I’ve also had a very interesting history lesson! Thanks so much for sharing this walk with us, even in storm and hail! Now that’s commitment my friend 🙂
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I’ve walked that trail, or parts of it, more times than I can count, Sherri. Nice to be able to share it, though it was a bit ‘long-winded’. Glad you enjoyed it with me 🙂
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🙂
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I loved this walk, Jo (Luckily I was wearing my waterproofs). What an incredible history 😀
“Brass monkeys” gave me a good giggle, but not as much as the English hanging the odd Frenchman! Oh dear, poor monkey – that would be a mistake that would be very hard for anyone to live down 😀
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Not much of a reward for surviving the shipwreck, was it Dianne? 🙂 You can even buy postcards locally with the ‘who hung the monkey?’ legend on!
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LOL!
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I just love going on these walks with you Jo. It’s so beautiful there and those sea spray shots are absolutely stunning, just like all the others. Thanks for sharing hon. Love them all! 😀 ♥ Big Hugs ♥
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Thanks, Sonel 🙂 It’s probably my most frequent walk because it’s on my doorstep. In all weathers, as you can see, but I do usually try to avoid hailstones. Just damp and misty this morning. 🙂 Take care.
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I know what you mean Jo. It’s the same here but with my little man that can’t walk so far anymore, I now walk around in the garden most of the time. I love misty mornings.
What I wanted to ask : If I had a walk or something like that on Sunday, can I post it on your Monday Walk challenge?
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Of course you can! A bit like Paula’s it didn’t start life as a challenge and I don’t really want a logo or any of that. I just like seeing other people’s areas and thought it would be nice to share. You can link directly to me in the post or just put a link to your post in my comments. I really don’t mind which, Sonel.
I’ve been thinking how best to ‘share’ and think that I might post them on my Restlessjo Facebook page. Not everyone is into social media and it brings it’s own problems doesn’t it? Join me any way you want, hon. You’ll always be welcome. 🙂
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That’s fine by me hon and I think you had a great idea here. Yes, it sure is fun sharing and I love seeing all the places and you always describe everything so well. I wish I could do that. I am not good with stuff like that but I do hope my photo’s will do the talking. LOL!
I’ve grown to hate FB so you won’t find me there. I prefer your blog. Thanks hon. 😀 ♥ Hugs ♥
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Your skill with photography far exceeds my facility with words, but it’s nice that we have our ‘talents’, Sonel. I meant to add that you can link any day. It doesn’t have to be a Monday 🙂
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I am glad you think so Jo and thanks for the compliment hon and it sure is nice.
Okay, that’s great to hear and thanks hon. 😀
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Here you go hon and thanks again for this great idea and for sharing your lovely walks. I love it! 😀
http://sonelcorner.wordpress.com/2014/04/01/jos-monday-walk-schoemansville-oewerclub/
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Wow, Sonel! These are absolutely exquisite. Could our worlds be any more different? Thank you so much for joining in my friend. I’m honoured 🙂 Warm hugs (well, quite chilly because it’s raining here, again!)
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The New Forest has started doing a lot of these posted walks,, and these boards and history make a walk so much more interesting… 😉 oh by the way ‘great post’
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Thank you very much 🙂 It rambles on a bit, doesn’t it, so I’m glad you liked it.
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My sympathy lies with the poor monkey. I bet he didn’t even speak French. 😦 A very interesting walk, Jo. What amazing history surrounds you on your walks around Hartlepool. Such a pity about the elephant stack collapsing. It was rather splendid, wasn’t it? Thanks for taking me along with you, through fair weather and foul. 🙂
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Glad you could make it, Ad 🙂 It’s grey again this morning. Please carry me off to sunnier climes. Pretty please 🙂
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quella scimmia che troneggia sulla colonna sembra farsi beffe di tutto, he he
la neve addolcisce ogni paesaggio ed è quella la foto che più amo, il mare ha colori piuttosto indecisi o cupi, ma non si può pretendere di più da una bella cittadina del nord
immagino sia stata una deliziosa passeggiata, amica Giovanna, così per me che con te l’ho percorsa
buon inizio settimana!
that monkey that dominates the column seems flouting everything he he
the snow softens every landscape and is the picture that I love, the sea has somewhat undecided or gloomy colors, but you can’t expect more from a northern town
I guess it was a lovely walk, friend Joan, so for me that I traveled with you
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I should have known you’d like the snow, Ventis! 🙂 Sorry I haven’t replied yet to your lovely email. This post took me a long time and I’m having some difficulties with my neck and shoulder. Hopefully this morning’s walk will cure it! Many thanks for your company. Buona giornata, cara.
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I do find that monkey-hanging story quite funny. Is there any evidence that it really happened, or do you think it’s a myth?
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Knowing the locals , I wouldn’t be at all surprised, Richard, but I really shouldn’t say that, should I? There is a song about it and if you look at that link near the end it gives more details. Who knows? 🙂
All well with you?
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Interesting stories Johanna. My memory and place in Bali – Indonesia – Sangeh where many monkeys. The Balinesse believe they have previously kingdom of monkeys. Thanks a lot for sharing Johanna, have a nice week!
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Oh, but I’d love to visit Bali and see your monkeys, Della Anna. 🙂 Many thanks for your time this morning.
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You’re welcome Johanna 🙂
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Good post Jo. We need more of these walks with information boards but the trouble seems to be that they get put up and then there is no money for maintenance. Cleethorpes has some good information boards but I have noticed that they are sadly falling into disrepair.
I like that little fish ditty. It reminded me that recently I took my 3 year old granddaughter to the fishing heritage museum in Grimsby. It is a wonderful museum that recreates life in 1950s Grimsby complete with sounds and smells. We only made the first room because she held her nose and shouted ‘it stinks, it stinks’ and we had to go back. An elderly couple were about to go through the door and she told them ‘don’t go in there, it stinks’. I explained to the reception desk what happened and I got a refund!
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Excellent, Andrew! Thanks for my Monday morning smile. It’s still a bit grim around here. Remind me to bring a peg when I come to Grimsby 🙂
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There are parts of the Jorvik museum in York that are a bit smelly, too. I stuck it out and it was well worth enduring the pongs.
Lovely walk, Jo – maybe possible when I come to Sally’s in June, DV
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Wonderful! I hope so, Viv! 🙂
Yes, I remember Jorvik as being very smelly too.
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