Castro Marim and the estuary

It’s an odd thing!  Castro Marim is one of the most peaceful spots I’ve ever come across.  Yet standing there, glowering, at the top of the hill, is a monumental castle.  Part of the ramparts that once surrounded the town provide wonderful contrast in the domestic scene above.

Looking out from the battlements across the broad sweep of estuary, the town of Ayamonte, on the Spanish side of the River Guadiana, looks like many another.  But as your eyes travel along the shore, you might spot the fortifications at the top of the town.  This is the pattern all along this river, a natural boundary between Portugal and Spain. Like pugilists, ready to punch and counter punch, these two nations have squared up to each other down the years.  But today, thankfully, all is peace.

The castle walls and main church of Castro Marim

The castle walls and main church of Castro Marim

Castro Marim is a sleepy place, with one ancient street that straggles up towards the castle.  The nature of the shoreline and the shifting sands of the Algarve has much to do with this.  The first settlement here was back in the Neolithic period when Castro Marim was much closer to the sea than it is now, and surrounded by shallow waters.  For thousands of years Castro Marim was a port that offered shelter to the ships that sailed up the Guadiana to collect copper from inland mines. Romans and Phoenicians settled here and such was its prosperity that Castro Marim was connected to Lisbon by a Roman road.

The castle and fortified wall that surrounded the medieval town date from the 12th century, when border disputes had become commonplace. Castro Marim subsequently became the headquarters of the Order of Christ, but went into decline when these were transferred  to Tomar in Central Portugal.  The castle fell into disrepair and was replaced by the fort of São Sebastião on a hilltop on the opposite side of town.   The shifting sands did little to help the economy.

Today tourism has found Castro Marim in a small way.  New housing surrounds the old town.  The Architectural Museum in the partly restored castle tells of a fascinating past.  But essentially the town is as self contained as ever, only rousing from its slumber each August for the Medieval Fair.

A typical townhouse

A typical townhouse

With its “hand of Fatima” door handle.
And a quite unusual roof terrace.
Looking across the rooftops to the town wall

Looking across the rooftops to the town wall

And down from the church steps

And down from the church steps

Gardens in the newer part of town

Gardens in the newer part of town, and the Chapel of S. Antonio

With fountains and a windmill

You may remember that I mentioned Castro Marim in A gift from the sea.  You can gaze down on the salt pans of the nature reserve from the castle walls. And if you’re really lucky, you might catch a sight of the flamingos, stretching their wings in flight.  For a better chance of seeing them, try my walk through the salt marshes.

Flamingos on the salt pans (courtesy of Mike Bradley)

Flamingos on the salt pans (courtesy of Mike Bradley)

Where to next?  Maybe a tidal mill, or we could hop across the border.  Or even join the smart set at Vale de Lobo.  But not for golf.  Come along and see.

93 comments

  3. Jo, you always take me on the most fascinating and beautiful tours hon. What gorgeous and colourful houses and scenes! Stunning shots too. Thanks for the lovely tour and for sharing hon. 😀 *big hugs*

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    1. It has plenty, Elisa. I should have climbed up and got some shots from the castle walls but energy was a bit low after that walk. Sitting at a cafe seemed a better option.

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  7. You exhausted me walking through the salt marshes in the last post! Lordy, I spied the laundry and got confused thinking I had to walk backwards! Chuckle. Wonderful images of the little town, Jo! I always like the tone of your images. Positive and light regardless of the subject. I find that interesting and very appealing as well as causing your travel images to flow well together.

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    1. Thanks a lot, George! I exhausted myself on the last one, too 🙂
      The photos were taken on two different occasions. The skies were a little grey on our January visit, so I compensated with some from a previous visit. You don’t go for long in the Algarve without seeing a blue sky.

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  9. It’s a very pretty place per you nice pictures, Jo. And it looks sleepy too.
    But I wouldn’t trade if for where I am and I don’t think you should either. 🙂

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  11. Oh Jo, you had me from the first photo. I’m ready to book a trip! By the way, we’re going to be 16 degrees tomorrow morning…I’ll think of your photos as I walk from the parking deck to my office downtown. 🙂

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    1. The temperature’s all over the place isn’t it, Jill? It wasn’t much more than 16 when we were in the Algarve- up to about 20C. That’s fairly normal for January 🙂 Fine if the skies blue (which it often wasn’t, but we don’t find much cause for complaint)

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      1. 🙂 Awesome! We were close to getting nailed last night but guess what IT MISSED US!!!! Very happy today!

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    1. I’m fine with you living in Sintra, Cathy. I can pop up and see you there when it’s too hot in the Algarve in Summer (and of course you can make return visits 🙂 )

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    1. Hello again, Dan 🙂 The Eastern end has a flavour all its own due to the salt marshes of the Ria Formosa, but I know what you mean. There’s definitely an “ambience” to the Algarve. Thanks for your kind words.

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