Olhão

Saying goodbye

It isn’t easy to post this week. I have a myriad of beautiful images of the Christmas lights sparkling around the Algarve, but on this day I will be saying goodbye to two men. One, a family member- my stepbrother who loved and cared for my Dad like his own. The other, a man who loved life and was loved in return. Both leave behind grieving widows, and families who are shocked at an unexpected turn of events. It’s never easy, but this is a time of year when everybody is set to celebrate. Without them.

RIP Tony and Terje.

Six word Saturday

Adding colour to life, in Olháo

Aren’t these great? I recommend you click through the gallery because the new Editor is happy to chop the images to suit itself. Have a good weekend, all! But don’t forget Six Words for Debbie.

A birthday treat

I’m going to be a little bit naughty today. You see, Su’s invited me to a tea party and, as usual, I’m totally unprepared. So what I thought I’d do is share with you my birthday treat last Thursday. Raspberry cheesecake with a chocolate base, anybody?

Let me set the scene. Heavy rain is threatened and a warning in place for electrical storms. I know I’m lucky to be able to go out to celebrate the day, but I did have such plans. A nice little spot overlooking a dam. Serene and beautiful. Sunset on the water, and a sunrise full of misty promise. But when the rain drifts in, visibility nil. Go to plan B. A restaurant I’ve been curious about for some time. Cha Cha Cha, in Olháo.

Initially we think, hop a train. A leisurely afternoon with fine wine. But the storm threatens and we jump in the car. Into a head wind on the waterfront. Will we make it before the storm hits?

Barely just! We have the place almost to ourselves. Heavy wooden doors bolt us in. A tiny outlook to a bougainvillea clad wall. Swiftly and firmly closed and the plum velvet curtains swished shut. The sound of drumming rain and the growls of thunder prowling the rooftops. We don’t mind. Secure and warm. And there’s cake! An atypical Algarve birthday, in an atypical year.

Now come on over to Su’s place for sumptuous food and a bit of a gossip.

Virtual afternoon tea, November 2020

Take kindly to

Jude is hoping for dramatic sunsets this week. They tend to be gentle around here. But I know that this is a scene beloved of Becky.

KindaSquare

2020 Photo Challenge #41

Jo’s Monday walk : a fishy tale!

I like a fishy story. Don’t you? Truth to tell this one isn’t much of a story at all, and it’s not what I had intended to post. But if you can’t be spontaneous in your own space… well, it’s a poor show! It all started with a seahorse…

‘Let’s go to Olhão!’, I said. ‘There’s a new seahorse sculpture and some net things up in the streets’. What more of an invitation do you need? The Ria Formosa, just offshore from Olhão, is known for its seahorses, and you can take a very delightful trip over to the sandbars to hunt for them. Stuff of dreams? A little less exciting, the sculpture, looking out to sea.

But Olhão is one of those ‘love it, hate it’ places. Full of character, if you want to be polite. Desperately shabby in the back streets, but in the process of acquiring a shiny new waterfront for the visitors. The marina is always a treat, as you watch the boats to and fro-ing to the islands, but the riverside gardens are currently being torn up and replaced. Hopefully they will retain some of their character, and the wonderful azulejo benches. So uncomfortable to sit on, but beautiful to behold. But we’ve not come to sit, invitingly though the icecream van flutters its eyelids at the tables beside the water. The Arab quarter is always beguiling, so long as you don’t mind getting a little lost in the narrow tumble of streets. Spot the whale on the roof? No, I didn’t see it either at first.

I’m heading for the pedestrianised shopping area- not to shop, but this is where I think I might catch a fish or two. And certainly some street art!

Olhão has a fair claim to being the street art capital of the Algarve. The work depicting the fishing industry is among my favourites anywhere. But finally I find what I’m looking for, and yet it still comes as a surprise. Fish cavort above my head, darting through nets and flipping their tails. ‘Linda‘ says the sign over the shop- beautiful- and I have to agree.

I wander along, snapping and exclaiming, until I come to the main church square, where an exhibition catches my eye. I read the text and take a pic or two, and then I notice that the other half is staring skywards. He’s spotted the storks. Attention completely diverted.

I circle around the building, happy to find so many at home. Did you notice the time on the clock? I did, simply because at 3 on a Saturday afternoon I usually attend a Zoom meeting with some lovely ladies. Some of you will know that Becky spends most winters here in the Algarve, and that Olhão is her home of choice. I wondered if she might like to share the moment.

Back we wandered to a favourite café, with a ringside view of the leaping life above our heads. All was quiet in the heat of the afternoon. At weekends in summer the Portuguese go to the beach, leaving the towns strangely empty. Though empty in these days is not so strange! We settle at a table, with a refreshing wine, and I make the call. ‘Would you like to come for a walk?’ And so I retrace my steps, waving my phone at the sky in the hope that they might see the fish, and maybe a stork or two.

I did promise you a fishy story. I hope you weren’t disappointed?

And now some shares! A lucky dip into my ‘likes’ introduced me to Helen. Please stop by and say hello?

Quarantine Walks: The Bulford Kiwi

Drake has his own individual take on life, and he always makes me smile :

Away from home

As times go by

I always like to share stunning photos, and these from Mercedes are beautiful :

Hiking in green Appenzell

Rupali shows us the beauty of her world :

Daily Walk

Weekend 98: Moments from the Wilderness

And Indra takes me to a city I’ve always wanted to visit :

Hong Kong… An Eclectic Mix

Anabel is rightly proud of her heritage, despite ‘dreich’ weather :

Port Glasgow Heritage Walk

A daunder round Dundee

While Margaret juggles with words :

Six Words? Twelve Words? All nonsense

And Natalie joins in with my fishy theme :

Life and Fish-Themed Art

Becky and I share a love for the same places :

Where the Douro flows into the Atlantic

A bit of an aberration with the print in the shares! Made me rather late publishing today. Apologies if I’ve missed anybody. It’s not so easy keeping track right now. Too many distractions. I won’t be walking with you next week. It’s seriously hot! Enjoy your summer/winter/life! See you soon.

Jo’s Monday walk : Fuseta to Olháo

Something to always bear in mind when walking around our salt marshes is that they are tidal. In a spirit of adventure, just after Christmas, I set out to explore the stretch between Fuseta and Olháo, entirely overlooking this fact. In my defense, I was following the Algarve Cycle Trail and hadn’t envisioned that crossing water would be an issue. On a glorious, sunny morning, I caught the train to Fuseta A (there are 2 stations in this small village, and the other one isn’t Fuseta B!) A right turn will take you past the former fishermen’s houses and onto the coastal path.

Out in the bay the former coastguard station looks on without comment. It’s a calm and peaceful scene, many people having not yet returned from the holiday. Birds wander, pecking and poking in the shallows, completely undisturbed when the occasional cyclist passes by. The railway line also follows the coast, with minimal impact. The colours of the heather are a lovely contrast in this sometimes dowdy landscape.

As often happens, a signpost throws confusion into the calm, either direction appearing to lead to Olháo. The longer of the two, though interesting, doubles back on itself, but not before I have spotted the nesting storks, a rather endearing frog and a hoopoe.

Now it may seem a little early, but the sun is very warm and a decision is needed. The perfect place to make it presents itself, a small restaurant, ‘O Farol’. Does anyone mind a cake stop? His and hers, of course! Mine is the almond tart.

Decision made, we head in the general direction of the coast, hoping to be able to continue around the bay to Praia dos Cavacos. And as luck would have it, we’re able to tiptoe around the edge of the sand and reach a boardwalk that looks quite new. The surrounding buildings are unconventional, and ornamented with some rather wonderful artwork.

We are never out of touch with the quiet salt pans, which breathe life into this landscape. You may have thought it all going swimmingly (bad choice of words 🙂 ) but a slight hiccup is just around the corner.

The railway track, which has followed us so patiently, decides to leap a gully full of water. We shake our heads. It’s too big a leap for human legs. A family of cyclists approach from the direction of Olháo. When they passed this way earlier the tide was out. Bravely they hoist their cycles and cross the precarious track. The alternative for us is a very long walk, so we grimace and hasten across the gap. My heart is thudding. If a train should suddenly appear… but minutes later we are in the heart of the nature reserve known as Quinta de Marim.

The plan was to skirt this park, and stay close to the campsite at Olháo. But it’s simply a relief to be across the water.

The tidal mill is a beautiful sight at high tide. It has not been operational since 1970, but the equipment still looks ready for action. I clamber up to the roof and look out across the water, to the low-lying barrier island, Armona.

The sun is low in the sky as we finally reach Olháo. The contemporary theatre, itself a converted mill, stands in sharp contrast to the crumbling facades of neighbouring buildings. Oblivious, the birds cavort on a high wire above. Soon all trace of Christmas will be gone.

For us, it’s time to catch a train home. If you should happen to repeat this walk, be very aware of the tide times. And meanwhile, many thanks for accompanying me on the adventure that is the new year.

Not too many walks to read as you get back into a routine. Join me any time here on Jo’s Monday walk. The welcome is always the same.

……………………………………………………………………………

Janet has enormous fun in a museum!

WNDRful walk

And we all know that Jackie never lets the side down :

Christmas Fare

No place like home, but Drake is happy to hang his hat in a number of places :

Not that boring

While Sandra takes me back to one of the most beautiful places I have ever been :

#Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, #Portugal

Irene shares the beauty of a beach in winter :

Winter Day on the Dunes

And Indra, the lush landscape of :

Ng Tung Chai Waterfalls-Hong Kong

In stark contrast, Karen takes us to Australia, where heat is a killer. Do please donate something, if you can :

A parched walk in the Blue Mountains

Candy combines a history lesson with a great walk. I had no idea!

The Roman Walls of Lugo

And Cathy takes us back to a very beautiful mosque :

Casablanca: Back to Hassan II, a walk along the Corniche, & Quartier des Habous

Happy New Year to anyone I’ve missed. Onwards and upwards!

Jo’s Monday walk : Remember Culatra?

Some weeks I have no idea where to take you. After all, there are only so many hills I can drag you up and down in search of cake, aren’t there? So, I thought we’d take it fairly easy this week and hop on a boat. Always my default setting. You might recognise the marina at Olhão, above.

With 20 minutes of smooth calm sailing, you just about have time to say goodbye to the mainland before you’re approaching Culatra, one of the Algarve’s barrier islands. You can leap off at the first stop, or continue along the shoreline towards the lean white lighthouse at Farol. There’s a small village at either end of the island and, after a meander through the cluster of villas and shacks, you can slip off your shoes for a paddle.

It looks like somebody’s been shipwrecked here! Still, with a ferry every couple of hours, rescue is pretty certain. It’s a long swim to Fuzeta!

Paddling done it’s time to cross over the boardwalk and pootle about with boats. I’ll not spend time lingering among the narrow alleyways, charming though they are. If you remember, we had a good look around last time I brought you here. A lot of work is going on, laying new paths on the island, so maybe change is afoot. Hopefully nothing too drastic!

It doesn’t always pay to nose around. I almost fell foul of this little creature. He was sitting innocently beside a boat, when I unwittingly invaded his territory. Leaping and snarling, he made quite sure that I wasn’t up to no good. I beat a hasty retreat, making what I hoped were soothing noises.

The seagulls were completely indifferent but a couple of small boys playing football were highly amused. I raised a cheer when I lobbed their ball back to them, over a fence. Kids here lead a simple life. In warmer weather they become water babies, diving off the pier again and again, to the cheers of their mates, and swimming like gleeful fish.

On board again, we chug back across the water. Entertainment is provided by some fellow passengers feeding the gulls, which swoop and perform aerobatics to snatch the bread. In no time we’re ashore and strolling along the quayside, seeking refreshment.

We find it down an inviting passageway. Such a nice reward for a minimum of effort. Healthy, too? I hope you enjoyed sharing.

More great walks this week. Do find time to read them, please. You might make some new friends. And if you can, join me next week on Jo’s Monday walk? You know I like a bit of company.

…………………………………………………………………………………………..

Cathy honoured me with a link to her Camino walk last week, but I missed it. Please don’t!

(Camino: day 4) Zubiri to Pamplona

And sometimes she takes me places I’ve never even heard of! Who says blogging isn’t educational?

Great Sand Dunes National Park

I’m always in awe of her photography, and jealous of the places she’s been. Thanks so much, Debs!

Victoria Harbour walk

You can share anything on my walks… and Drake often does! 🙂

Equipment

Denzil is right on my wavelength. A peaceful riverside walk with a castle or two :

Walking around Westerlo: river, castles and an abbey!

When she’s not eating, she’s shopping! Always good fun with Jackie :

Market Fresh

All the way to Guatemala next, with Natalie :

Postcard from Antigua, Guatemala

Lisa’s taking us on one of her favourite walks, by the Hudson river :

Jo’s Monday Walk

A short walk with a stroller sometimes suits Alice :

The Welcome Station City

While Irene cheers us with ice blue (and a warm coat and scarf!) :

Sunshine and Blue Skies

Snow can look so pretty, but I’m keeping a safe distance! 🙂 Thanks, Eunice :

A snowy walk to Smithills Hall

Ending with Susan, and some fascinating memories of her time in the Peace Corps, and a very different world :

Walking Bogota, Colombia

Have a great week, everybody! Me? I have another week of walking, t’ai chi, stuttering along in Portuguese and hopefully more lovely sunrises.

Jo’s Monday walk : Among the fisherfolk

I was all set to take you castanet rattling in Jerez today, but we had a strenuous week last week, didn’t we? I thought a gentle amble round the latest addition to Olhão’s street art might be a better option. Truth be told, I could easily have missed these, if it hadn’t been for Becky. What would I do without her? A mine of information, she saves me hours of research. Murals with memories of the city gives details of the artists and how they came to work on this very engaging project.

Images of the sea always appeal to me, but the detail and realism of these bring them alive. They were taken from a set of photos of life as it was in the canning and fishing industry in Olhão, giving them authenticity and vibrance. While he was working, a lady asked to have a photo taken with the artist Pedro ‘Mistik’. Her mother was featured in his painting and she had the original photograph at home. I wonder if she was one of these?

The serious lady, or the one with the lively face? Might she stand out in a crowd, or perhaps, be a supervisor?

What a source of pride the murals must be for the older inhabitants of Olhão! The women, and their menfolk. And their dogs, of course!

And then there’s the iconic fish market, where the catch is sold. Close by, the lads still mend their nets.

But the days of the cannery are forever changed, wonderfully portrayed in all these capsules of time.

Four artists combined to create the work, bringing a new lease of life to these derelict buildings in Largo and Rua de Fábrica Velha. The faces are so full of character, telling their individual stories. They enthrall me.

It’s highly appropriate that the murals are close to Becky’s favourite fish restaurant in Olhão, Vai e Volta. We haven’t really done enough walking to merit a meal, but they are only open for lunch, so we’d better pop in now and stroll a little later. And no, that’s not my cake. Blame Robert today!

I defy you not to be full when you come out. And then a wander through Olhão’s atmospheric back streets just might reveal a March Square or two?

Five, I counted. Thanks so much, Becky, for providing fun and hospitality, as well as all those facts.

As the lights go down on Olhão, I have heaps of walks to share this week. Please find time to visit, especially if it’s someone you don’t know. You’ll find some great reads. I hope you’ve got that kettle on for a cuppa?

Pride of place, as promised, and a delight for you all! Thanks, Jude!

Garden Portrait : Powis Castle

Closely followed in the happiness stakes by Drake :

Procession of Joy

And this one from Emma, just because I like it. We share fond memories of Tenby :

Waiting for the Tide

Robin has a nice touch too. Not too far from my doorstep :

The Cross

Back to basics, with Jackie :

What’s cooking?

Never heard of this place, but Lady Lee is very well-traveled :

Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Less exotic, but very nicely presented by Anabel :

A stroll round Lanark

And here’s Shazza, on the hunt for Spring. I do hope she finds it soon!

Searching for signs of Spring

But fairies would do very nicely. Lots of rich detail in this, from Theresa :

Following a river to a Fairy Glen

Can you believe I’ve never been to Rome? Never mind- Jaspa can show us the ropes :

Wandering Rome, The Eternal City, at Night

Not so far away, Cathy has one last romp on ‘In search of a thousand cafes’ :

Our last day in Prague : old town & the Jewish Quarter

And Denzil finds much to give pleasure in the city of Antwerp. Check out the escalators!

How to spend a day in Antwerps’s historic centre

Meanwhile, Pauline does a fabulous job of capturing the wild waves :

Cyclone Linda whips up the waves

And Becky does a fair job on remembering the names of flowers. Much better than me!

The art of flowers

I’ve joined Candy on her explorations before. You should enjoy this one :

Castelo Branco

Recently featured in Inntravel’s ‘Slow Lane’, meet Luke and Nell, in this part of the world that I love :

Rota Vicentina/2/Finding the Fisherman’s Way

And finally, Carol takes us caving. There are some beautiful shots here!

Hidden Beneath

That’s it from the wintry north east of England. Hope you enjoyed it and many thanks to those of you who took part. Join me any time on Jo’s Monday walks. You’ll be very welcome. Have a great week!

Mad March Square

It’s impossible not to be dragged into one of Becky’s challenges, isn’t it, no matter how gloomy you may be feeling? I only wish I had a Mad March Hare, though I probably shouldn’t have said that. Someone’s sure to come up with one.

Go on! Take part! It only takes a few minutes to find a March Square.

Jo’s Monday walk : Culatra- an easy amble

I’m going to be a bit lazy for my first walk back with you. After all, I’m still in the Algarve, nominally on holiday, but in fact testing out a new lifestyle to see if it suits me. Many of you won’t be surprised to find that it does. I have taken you to Ilha da Culatra before, but my Stroller friends were going there recently and I just had to tag along. I’m sure you’ll see the attraction.

Culatra is an island of fisherfolk, but it doesn’t spurn the attention of tourists or beach worshippers who make the effort to cross over from the mainland. I regularly promote Enjoy the Algarve, a monthly online magazine full of fascinating events and details. Culatra features briefly this month and I thought you might like to see a little more.

Smooth as a millpond

Count the seabirds?

Boats for working and pleasure

Embarkation from Olhão is an easy affair. Ida e volta will get you a return ticket. We chose to disembark at Farol, the second port of call on this long, barrier island, guarded by a strut of a lighthouse with a red cap.

Weaving between a few cottages and a restaurant, almost immediately you reach the beach.

I couldn’t decide quite what the waves were jumping so playfully over, but they held me captive so that I had to scoot to catch up with the others. Of course, you can linger at the beach for as long as you like, but the walkers are single-minded folk and food was a top priority. A boardwalk turns inland, leading back to the village of Culatra, the first port of call.

I couldn’t take my eyes off the bougainvillea

You can feel the heat!

Abandoned?

Maybe I’d stay at this one

With it’s delicious flowers

To escape the heat of the sun there are several restaurants. As usual I was more interested in my surroundings than food, so I grabbed a quick bite and set off again with my camera.

This villa was opposite my restaurant

The shells were set into the wall

Making a grand image

Another contender for favourite flower

Half a boat is better than none?

No idea who they support?

Here’s a clue

Another pot or two

And a simple veranda

It’s a very basic lifestyle. Sand and sea rule and necessities have to be shipped from the shore. As I’m writing this a thunderstorm is rattling overhead and I know that the islands are in the frontline for inclement weather. Hard to imagine on a day like this, but I’ve heard this ocean roar.

It’s a gritty shoreline

With green hued urchins

Abandoned boats aplenty

And even acrobatic seagulls

And the distant gleam of sandbars

There’s an element of scruffiness that doesn’t suit everybody. No manicured greens to tee off on here. But I was highly amused to find, right by the water’s edge, a miniature football pitch. Evidence of another Portuguese passion!

And then it’s time to make for the ferry, wending back past ochre houses, idle bikes and always a twist or two of flowers.

The still calm waters of Olhão await, Becky. No changes yet!

I hope you’ve enjoyed being back in the Algarve with me. I still have another week or so to go. My daughter joins me on Sunday so I expect to be quite distracted but I’ll try to post another walk next week, and keep up with comments on this one. Take good care till then!

Please find time to check out these walks, if you haven’t already done so. Many thanks to all of you for your loyalty and support, even while I’ve been absent. Special thanks to Meg and to Jude for lovely birthday surprises for me.

……………………………………………………………………………….

I am a huge admirer of this lady’s work, so thank you very much for joining me, Debbie :

Street art galore

Another lady who always produces beautiful work. Take yourself strolling with Susan :

A Saturday Stroll at Wave Hill

A Leisurely Sunday Stroll through Brooklyn’s Green-Wood Cemetery

I wonder what Jackie might have cooked up this week?

Home cookin’

There’s nothing like good company on a walk. Tobias has a style all his own, and I love it :

Perigueux

Les Jardins d’Eau

Candy takes me to parts of Brittany I didn’t even know existed :