Northumberland

Jo’s Monday walk : Belsay Hall and quarry

If there’s anything in life that gives me a kick, it’s a rhododendron! Find me a quarry full of rhododendrons and perhaps you can imagine the effect. So I was very happy to make a return visit to Belsay Hall in Northumberland, a week or two ago.

Managed by English Heritage, the Belsay estate dates back to 1270, when it was first bought by the Middleton family. Heritage on the grand scale, it comprises a medieval castle and a Greek Revival mansion from the 19th century, linked by some truly wonderful gardens.

As you can see, it’s not only rhododendrons vying for first place in this beauty contest. Bypassing the more than stately hall, I cannot wait to feast my eyes. Frilled tulips and those with plainer frocks, delicate iris, and a shy magnolia are just some of the blooms that greet me. The grounds are the very essence of grandeur. There’s even a croquet lawn, for that most refined of pastimes.

Tree heather lures me on and I find myself shoulder to shoulder with these beauties. Don’t they just sing with colour?

Even looking at them in photographs, I am mesmerised. But this is only a beginning. Next, the quarry, with its magical patterns of light and shade.

The colours are rich and mellow, and the quarry towers above you. It’s like a fairy glen, scaled up for a friendly giant.

Are you speechless yet? I don’t know where I’ve ever seen a better display. The castle is close by, approached through a bluebell wood.

In this serene and pastoral setting it’s hard to credit that a family would need a castle for protection. When it was constructed, in the 14th century, conflict and border disputes were commonplace between England and Scotland. The castle has one of the best preserved examples of a pele tower- built by rich families in this area in the Middle Ages for self defence.

From past experience, castles make a good subject for Paulas’s After and Before in Black and White Sunday. What do you think?

The Middleton family lived in the castle, with modifications, until the completion of their mansion, at Christmas, 1817. Inspired by a honeymoon in Greece, Belsay Hall was built with rock carved from their own quarry. Let’s stroll back round there now, past the lake and the grazing sheep. I try to get a close up of a cluster of cygnets, but they’re too far away to be more than a splash.

There was an exhibition of quilts taking place inside the hall, but I’ll save that for another day. Let’s adjourn to the tea rooms.

Directions on getting to Belsay are on their website. I hope you enjoyed our visit. Many thanks for your support and the wonderful contributions I have received again this week. Details of how to join in are always on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Let’s settle in for a good read:

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Almost missed Eunice last week, so she’s starting us off today :

A reservoir ramble

Can there be anywhere lovelier for a dawdle? Thanks, Drake!

Wet wet streets

Budapest has a lot to recommend it too, as Anabel can show you :

Budapest: Margaret Island and Obuda

Jackie gets up to some strange things, doesn’t she?

Dirty laundry

Geoff, Dog and a lighthouse- I’m happy!

A wander about#sundaywalks

Ann Christine takes us back to terrible times in Irish history, but with a happy ending :

A Peaceful Walk in Belfast

A whole heap of lovely photos from Lady Lee :

Thursday’s Special: Traces of the Past

If ever you’re needing a beautiful view, or three, tap Debbie on the shoulder. She’ll have them :

Moorish to more Moorish

Becky uses that eagle eye of hers to good effect in the Algarve :

The Military Stairs of Alcoutim

That lass Jude knows how to make me smile. A splash or two of azalea in a National Trust garden:

Garden Portrait: Coleton Fishacre

SO excited to be sharing this from Madhu! A small part of her beautiful Indian heritage :

Kashmir – Afoot in Shehr-e-Khas

How would I describe Gabe? Warm and whimsical, I suppose. Go and see for yourself :

Hiking in Venice

So lucky and privileged this week! Another wonderful share from Paula. Don’t forget to listen too!

Light Catcher

What do you know of Peru? Not much? An interesting read here from Jill :

Ollantaytambo at dusk

And, much closer to home, Carol finds me some stone circles :

Walking in Circles

That’s it for another week. All gems! Hope you enjoy your long weekend (if you’re having one). Take good care!

Jo’s Monday walk : Aydon Castle

I still have a sackful of balmy, Algarve images to post but, here in England, the Autumn colour is fading fast. I thought I’d share this walk to Aydon Castle before the leaves have all departed. Though it’s just over the border into Northumberland, I’d never heard of this 13th century, fortified manor house until a couple of weeks ago.

I know lovely honey coloured Corbridge, where my walk starts, quite well. It’s riverside walks often tempt me. This is Roman Wall territory and there are any number of sites you can visit to delve back in time. Today though, I’m after a good tramp in the outdoors. No, don’t ask ‘which one?’

The walk starts from the free car park, just over the bridge, where you will also find a helpful map and suggestions for other trails in the neighbourhood. Cross over the bridge and head gently up through the town, bearing to the right.

Corbridge is a very genteel and affluent looking place. Not easy to imagine the Scottish border raids that once were a regular feature of this area. Livestock were often brought in from the fields at night, and a watch placed at each end of town to protect them from marauders. Way before that, Corbridge was the most northerly town in the Roman Empire.

Keep a watch for a signpost off to the left. Aydon Castle is one and a half miles from this point, initially following a narrow lane and then a footpath beside a lovely old stone wall. It’s a bit of a surprise to find yourself walking next to the noisy A69 but, once you cross the road bridge over this busy highway, you are again enfolded in English countryside. Did you notice the kilns off across the fields? It was my intention to circle around to see them on the return leg, but that didn’t quite happen.

The sheep are quietly contemplative, their fleece crisply white against the shimmering autumn foliage. Ahead, the trail drops down into the woods and weaves in and out of dappled shade. It’s a bit of a climb up towards the Castle.

Suddenly the solid walls are right there in front of you. Robert de Reymes, a wealthy merchant, built a manor house here, beside the Cor Burn, in 1296. It was originally a 2-storey building but in 1305 he obtained a licence to add battlements, crenellations and curtain walls. Despite this it was pillaged and burnt by the Scots in 1315. Two years later the English recaptured it, only to lose it again to the Scots in 1346.

In the middle of the 16th century the building was renovated, and mid 17th century it was converted into a farm. It remained a farm until 1966.

It is a remarkably solid building. Information panels showing the floor plans are strategically placed and, on the ground floor, there’s a charming storybook on a sturdy wooden table. Sunlight dances off the wall hangings in the regal hall. I find myself gazing at the rough roof tiles, high above the timber beams. The patterns intrigue.

Outside, Autumn continues to glow. I hope for a tearoom attached to the Castle, currently managed by English Heritage, but a small shop has to suffice. Lunch proves to be a bar of fudge and a hot chocolate, clutched for warmth. Still, it’s a fairytale setting and I’m not disappointed.

Leaving the castle behind, there are decisions to be made. Left or right? Left is a longer walk, which passes by the pottery kilns, but the light is already beginning to fade. I’m afraid that good sense prevails. A country lane eventually leads back to Corbridge.

I have some bad news for you. The Castle is now closed until April next year. I caught the last weekend, but the location is still lovely. The English Heritage website provides all the details, and if you want the full 6 mile circuit, pottery kilns included, this is how. There are some great pubs for food in Corbridge, if you’ve time to linger. Here it’s time to put the kettle on and settle in for a good read.

Many thanks to all for your wonderful contributions again this week. Your enthusiasm and support drives me ever onward. Hope you enjoyed this week’s walk. It’s easy to join in, if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.

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Debbie has a delicious waterside stroll for us this week. But do take care of your ankles!

Walking the Path of Customs

Desmond has a barrow in the market place. Molly is the singer with the band. Thanks Drake!

Ob-la-di, ob-la-da

Pink houses, peach houses, or how about lemon? Jude, in colourful Colchester :

A brief look at Colchester

Violet has found us some more delights this week! And it’s not even snowing! (Yet!)

Polar bears in a park

Anabel tests her fitness levels and comes out on top!

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River

And looking at glorious locations, not much can top this. Thanks, Lady Lee!

Monserrat, Spain – the trip of a lifetime

Jackie’s in Jamestown. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t named after my son :

Day 4 – Jamestown

Woolly is waving goodbye this week :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-The-Promenade

While Paula has a very special, luminous night time stroll to share :

Thursday’s Special: Pick a Word in November

And Susan has searched out some very beautiful fountains in Central Park :

Central Park’s North End

You can almost hear the noise from Carole’s Mute Swans! They’re fabulous :

Swanning Around

Next please let me introduce Unicorn and Bear, a hiking couple from Canada :

Grouse Mountain and Lynn Canyon, North Shore of Vancouver

Miriam’s feeling a bit adventurous this week, and why not?

Waterfall Therapy in Trentham

I wouldn’t get far on Kathryn’s walk because there’s a recycle book store. Serious temptation!

Campbell downtown

That’s it for another week. Hope you all have a good one. See you soon!

Jo’s Monday walk : Bellingham and Hareshaw Linn

Hareshaw Linn, or waterfall

If I told you that today’s walk takes us to the site of two former blast furnaces, you could be forgiven for being less than enthusiastic. But you might remember lovely Hareshaw Linn from a previous post. I was in the company of two friends with whom I go back a long way, so I had a smile on my face, even in the uphill stretches.

Ian and Pam have a caravan on a small site on the edge of Bellingham, a neat little market town in Northumberland. It just so happens that it also sits right beside one of that county’s best walks. I hadn’t been to Bellingham for more than 30 years, but I have an enduring image of waking up there one morning to a winter wonderland. The railing of our hotel balcony was delicately traced with snow, of which there hadn’t been a sign the night before. No snow on our walk today! It might make the going a little slippy, but wouldn’t it be pretty?

This is where we’ll start

This area was once the site of an iron works, established in 1833. At the height of operating, it contained 70 coke ovens, 24 large kilns for roasting the iron ore, a blacksmiths, stables and stores. It remained in production until 1848. The dam in the photo above supplied water to power the works, and is one of few reminders of the past. Nature has taken this valley back to herself, and it’s hard to imagine now the roar of those ovens.

Let’s follow the path down into the woods

And look what we find!

Growing right up into the tree

Ian and Pam make use of the first bench along our path

And we reach the first of the bridges

Before the path leads on

There are six bridges to cross, but for some reason only the first is numbered.

Looking for fish!

All shapes and sizes

From a sweeping curve

To the straight and narrow

The trees are laden with moss

Tangling with ferns and water

Which gurgles on its way!

There’s an element of fantasy to this woodland setting. It feels somehow lost to the real world.

And look! Someone’s been wishing on a penny!

Way overhead there’s a glimpse of sky

Then, a first hint of the Linn

And, grappling with the rock…

A last dramatic curtain before the grand reveal

Isn’t it lovely?

And below- peaceful today. Before the rains!

There’s only one way out of the valley, and that’s to retrace your steps, so you can’t get lost even if I rush on ahead. You might want to pause to examine a few flowers. The trail is one and a half miles long, so that’s a round trip of 3 miles, with a few ups and downs.

Funny how all the flowers down here seem to be yellow

Although the honeysuckle is more of a creamy colour

The path brings you out by the old bridge. If you cross over the road and take a few steps back the way, you will see evidence of former times and the power of water.

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I’m pretty sure you’re ready for a bite to eat by now, and the Rocky Road cafe will give you a warm welcome. Or there’s the ‘Rose and Crown’, just as friendly, next door, if it’s open. The houses are largely built from the local grey stone, enlivened by troughs of flowers and hanging baskets. I continue past the village hall to St. Cuthbert’s Church, consecrated in the 12th century. Unlatching the door, I step briefly inside, then leave quietly again. St. Cuthbert’s Well (Cuddy’s Well) is easily missed, down by the river.

Need a few fruit and veg?

A little whitewash

And the community hall

A wooden nativity outside St. Cuthbert’s Church

And inside, the Madonna

And some beautiful stained glass

I couldn’t leave without a quick look at the hotel where we stayed so long ago. There was still a lovely view down to the river, but agreeably, no snow! A footpath beside the river will bring you back into town, where you might want to visit the Heritage Centre.

The row houses

The North Tyne

And ‘Cuddy’s Well’

I hope you enjoyed this week’s walk, in the company of my lovely friends. This link will take you to the Northumberland National Park site, with a map and full details of the location.

Time for a cuppa and to share some more brilliant walks! Many thanks to all of you who’ve submitted walks, and to those of you who are simply armchair readers. To join me, you’ll find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or just click on the logo above. Here we go!

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Got to brave the weather when you’re in the Hebrides. Well done, Geoff!

A walk around Luskentyre

Still learning new words this week! Thanks a lot, Anabel :

Torwood Castle and Tappoch Broch

I just know how much I would love Corsica! Look at this!

A walk in shadow of history

Amazing share from Violet- the most incredible Junk Art!

Junk Art

For those of you who didn’t see it on BBC2, here’s Laura’s version of the Pennine Way :

Peaks and troughs

I am so privileged again to feature Suzanne’s beautiful handiwork. Don’t miss it!

Walking in Tower Hill

Henry Moore sculptures a-plenty from Jackie this week :

Monday Walk- Toronto

Did you ever see anything lovelier than this? I know Sue S will approve! Many thanks, Amy!

Monday Walk : Bow River

You have to applaud the sentiments of the next one, as well as the beauty! Cheers, Jesh!

Friends Walk Together

And if you’d like, share some reminiscing with my beautiful friend, Meg?

Walking a memoir

It wouldn’t be Monday without Jude in Cornwall, now would it?

St. Just in Penwith

For something a little wilder (and spectacular!) grab your poles and join Ruth :

A rocky walk to Bicheno Blowhole

First the water spouts up, and then it flows down! Thanks to the Eternal Traveler!

Over the Cliff

That’s it for this week! Next week I hope to schedule my Monday walk, as I will be in Bristol gazing at hot air balloons. Pinch me, somebody- I must be dreaming! I don’t get back until late on Monday evening so I may be rather slow with my responses, and I will be all in a daze.

If you have any spare time, pop in to see those lovely folks at Monday Escapes, won’t you? Meanwhile, have a great week!

Restoration 2

Welcome inside Seaton Delaval Hall

Early this year I first shared Northumberland’s Seaton Delaval Hall with you. At that time it was wholely encased in scaffolding and a woeful sight. I breathed a huge sigh of delighted relief to find it standing proud and unencumbered on my return this Summer.

Last week we had a wander in the beautiful gardens and I promised a look inside. I didn’t know then the theme of this week’s Thursday’s Special. My sun beaming in is as close as I get to the ‘gold inside’, but I hope you will join me anyway.

Let’s take a look. So much has been accomplished!

Sun filters in from the courtyard

Not a scaffold in sight!

Just pure unadulterated building!

And then we step inside. The height of the hall is no longer a surprise to me but, looking up, I’m happy to see the Muses restored to their lofty niches. Sunlight illuminates the silent figures.

Solemn, and missing a limb or two

The conservation team have done an amazing job. The 30 foot high Central Hall was gutted by fire and left open to the elements for many years. Even in its fragile state there was a grace and a majesty to the building. The team have lifted and relaid the tiled marble floor, and the stucco statues have been strengthened, repaired and returned to their original niches.

The six statues represent the muses of sculpture, painting, architecture, astronomy, geography and music. Apparently they were made in situ, from an iron framework covered in tile, brick and plaster to produce a mannequin. Muslin beneath layers of stucco plaster created a very realistic appearance. Conservation enthusiasts might enjoy the Hall’s blog.

Mounting the West Staircase, I look out at the gardens

And down the elliptical stairwell

Finding myself up close and personal with the muses

It seems that the Hall was always graceful and beautiful

As it is again, today!

It was a glorious day and I strolled the gardens, and then was about to head for the tea rooms when I spied an open door, off the courtyard. I hadn’t noticed it before and curiosity impelled me inside. Be prepared for some serious treasure. I wasn’t!

Click on a photo to view in more detail

The Fairfax Jewel

The treasures never end!

The Delavals were great collectors and the evidence is everywhere. A complete treasure trove! Much of the history of the Hall is on my previous post, and you will find additional details (including how to get there) on this National Trust link to Seaton Delaval Hall.

I thoroughly enjoyed my return visit and hope that you did too. If you ask nicely you can have oozy cream on your hot chocolate fudge cake in the tea rooms. Very nice! Now I need to take you to Paula’s place for her interpretation of the gold inside. It’s beautiful- of course!

Six word Saturday

Hareshaw Linn on a Summer day

Linn or waterfall

Teaming down the weathered rock

Captive in the pool

For Viv, now in France, who knows this part of the world, and who most of you know for her poetry. Hareshaw Linn is described as one of the best walks in Northumberland.

I hope the weekend brings you a little sunshine. Not too much! And that you’ll share it with Cate at Show My Face. My walk on Monday takes me back down to Yorkshire. See you then!

Jo’s Monday walk : Seaton Sluice

The harbour at Seaton Sluice

Seaton Sluice isn’t the most inviting place name I ever came across. Yet I knew from a previous expedition to nearby Seaton Delaval Hall that it provides an interesting gateway to the sea. A bright and free day took me back up the north east coast to explore.

Seaton Burn flows into the North Sea midway between Whitley Bay and Blyth. Place names are interesting, aren’t they? Seaton Sluice was once part of the village of Hartley, and was called Hartley Pans because of the salt pans, where salt was panned as far back as 1236. The area once belonged to Tynemouth Priory, but in 1100 the land became the property of Hubert de Laval, nephew by marriage to William the Conqueror. The Delavals, as they became known, settled about half a mile inland at Seaton Delaval Hall. Seaton derives from Old English and means a settlement (‘ton’) by the sea. Let’s go look around, and I’ll explain a little more.

The approach to the sea

Looking inland along the burn

The boats are stranded in the harbour

Tucked up below the wall

Waiting to be set free

At low tide, the area fails to look its best, but there was excitement to come. First, a little more history. Up until 1550, the salt produced at Hartley Pans was transported to Blyth for export. After this it was shipped directly from the small natural harbour, and the village, now known as Hartley Haven, was used to export coal as well as salt.

The little harbour was prone to silting and this limited access by ships, but in the 1600s Sir Ralph Delaval had a pier constructed, and sluice gates which trapped the seawater at high tide. Hence the name, Seaton Sluice. At low tide, the gates were opened, flushing the sand from the harbour.

The harbour remained like this until the 1760s when another Delaval, Sir John, had ‘The Cut’ blasted through solid rock to make a new harbour entrance. 54ft deep, 30ft wide and 900ft long, the result created an island of the land between the old entrance and the new channel. Enterprising men these Delavals. The new channel could be sealed off at both ends so that boats could carry on loading, irrespective of the tide. For me, the excitement begins when the channel meets the sea.

This sight had me skipping with excitement!

How beautiful is this?

I’m on the southern edge of Northumberland here, and if you know anything at all about Northumberland you’ll know it has magnificent beaches. In the distance you can see Blyth and an offshore wind farm. Next year there will be a Tall Ships Race too.

I’m happy just to gaze

But then it’s time to head back

With just a backward glance

Salt continued to be exported from Seaton Sluice until the advent of a new salt tax in 1798. It was replaced by a new export, glass bottles. In 1763 Sir Francis Delaval obtained approval from Parliament to develop a glassworks. Skilled men were brought from Germany to train the locals in glass making, using the materials to hand- sand and kelp from the sea, and local coal and clay. The bottles were sent to London on ‘bottle sloops’, with a main mast that could be lowered to enable sailing beneath the arches of old London Bridge.

Hard, now, to believe that such industry once took place. Competition from other glassmakers brought the bottle trade to an end, and a major disaster at Hartley pit, in which 204 men and boys perished, spelled the end of the coal trade.

Crossing Seaton Sluice Bridge we can look back at the harbour

Out to sea

And down into the channel

My adventure with the sea isn’t quite over yet though. Following the other side of the channel I come to a narrow cut. Looking south along the coast I am thrilled to find that in the far distance I can see St. Mary’s Lighthouse at Whitley Bay. You might remember my post.

Looking down the cut

And out to sea

There’s even a bench to admire the view

Can you see it, across the bay?

Quite a way off

It’s such a wonderful coastline!

Imagine living in this house

With this view

And this quirky garden!

I follow the coastal path back into the village. Looking down at the rocks I’m astounded to find a heron, nonchalantly checking out the seafood. I do hope he approves.

Following the coastal path

I spy a lazy fisherman

Amid the rocks

I returned to Seaton Delaval Hall that afternoon. Very nice chocolate fudge cake! I’ll share my visit when Paula returns from her holiday, but we might look at the garden before then.

Meantime I should thank Wikipedia for all their information, and you for sharing it with me.

Kettle’s on and I just have time to tell you that I have lots more wonderful walks to share this week before it boils. Details of how to join in are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. A click on the logo should do it. Thanks to all of you, old friends and new. Bring on the walks!

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Violet Sky was first to share this week, with such a good-looking lighthouse, too!

Cabot Head

And Anabel is going for broke- 3 for the price of 1!!!

Cairnpapple Hill

Exotic Wats and stupas all the way from Thailand, with Junk Boat Travels :

Wat Yai Chai Mongkol

And Jesh has me wanting a goat’s life in Zion National Park!

Utah’s Colours

Quite a few wild orchids down Eastbourne way. Cheers, Geoff!

Eastbourne to Birling Gap and back

Can’t you almost feel the rain dripping down your neck with Ruth?