Lluis Domenech i Montaner

Follow up

If ever I return to Barcelona it will be a priority to book a tour at Hospital de Sant Pau, Doménech i Montaner’s other famous work and a UNESCO World Heritage site. When I was there the building was behind screens and in the process of being restored. Now a functioning space as well as a formidable work of art, the following video is in Spanish, but I’m sure you’ll still appreciate it. The link above contains information about visits, for the future, of course. Meantime we can fly high with Becky.

#SquareUp

Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau- a Modernista triumph

IMG_0583Scaffolding, barriers and grey skies are not what you want to see on your first afternoon in Barcelona.  I had already had a glimpse at Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, and was still trying to assimilate what I had seen.  A stroll along Avinguda de Gaudi led me to this spectacle.  According to the guidebook it was Hospital de Santa Creu i Sant Pau, the work of Modernista architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner.

I had read about his incredible work of art, the Palau de la Musica Catalana, but this building was nothing like any hospital I had ever seen.  Apparently when it was completed in 1901 it was the most advanced in Europe. Domenech i Montaner conceived of a hospital which was modern and functional but also aesthetically pleasing.  He designed 12 pavilions, each with a different medical speciality, and linked them with underground passages. Light, ventilation and decoration were crucial to his plan, with open spaces for the use and wellbeing of the patients.

Standing on tiptoe I tried to take a shot of these magnificent buildings.  I never truly believe that barriers like this are meant to exclude me, so I made a circuit of the enormous site, looking for a way in.

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You can see, it didn’t happen!  But I saw enough to be seriously impressed. When I got home I checked the website and it seems that guided tours are available. You get to wear a crash helmet and orange jacket too.  Never mind! There never was time for everything in Barcelona, and I have a new passion in life- Lluis Domenech i Montaner.

I know that Paula has a healthy curiosity about life too, so I’m hoping she’ll enjoy this tribute and welcome it into her Thursday’s Special.

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Thursday : Lingering look at Windows- week 45

How about this for a spectacular start?

How about this for a view through a window?

If ever you are in Barcelona, find yourself just half an hour to tour the Palau de la Musica Catalana.  Better yet, attend a performance.  I promise you, you will not find a more beautiful theatre.

I had never before heard of the architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner, but on my first day in Barcelona I stumbled upon his Hospital de Santa Creu i Sant Pau and was immensely impressed. Day two found me lost in admiration for his Art Nouveau jewel of a theatre, which has been a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.  The website aptly describes it as “a magical music box which brings together all the decorative arts”.

The view from foyer to the outside courtyard.

The view from the foyer to the outside courtyard.

And then there are the stairs up to the theatre.

And then there are the stairs up to the theatre.

The details are beautiful

The details are beautiful

And then you are in the theatre itself

Then you are in the amazing theatre itself.

The auditorium is filled with natural light which filters in through the stained glass skylight and windows.  It was designed for daytime performances and the theme throughout is the natural world.  It is truly a masterpiece.  Sadly most performances these days are on an evening, as the tour guide explained.  She obviously loved her job and it wasn’t hard to see why.

It's hard to do the stained glass ceiling justice in a photo

It’s hard to do the stained glass ceiling panel justice in a photo

Or the trencadis "muses" that adorn the stage

Or the trencadis “muses” that adorn the stage

Each plays a musical instrument, though it might be hard to see here

Each plays a musical instrument- lute, tambourine, Catalan castanets…

The tour includes a short video which explains the background to the theatre’s existence and Catalan pride in this theatre, created purely for its’ choir and musical life.  In the theatre itself, the guide then explains all the symbolism and the special use of trencadis (mosaic made from broken tiles).  I had already perused the website and taken the virtual tour, but still I was enraptured with this wonderful creation, and a fan of Lluis Domenech i Montaner for life.

I hope you have enjoyed looking at some rather special windows with me.  A word of warning- be careful exiting down the marble stairs.  I descended rather faster than I intended!

Dawn has reached week 45 with this challenge.  Sorry I’ve missed a few, but I have a few more up my sleeve for the future.  Come and join us!