Jo’s Monday walk : Monte Clerigo

If you saw my last post you’ll know that I spent the previous weekend in Aljezur. Wild, west coast beauty, and quite unlike my own gentle Algarve shoreline. An untamed ocean pounding the cliffs. It can take your breath away- literally, sometimes, as the force of the wind hits you. I could never persuade my husband to live here. For him, warmth trumps beauty. But if I can spend time on these cliffs and beaches I’m in a world of my own. Come with me to the windswept beach of Monte Clerigo….

The weekend hadn’t gone entirely to plan, but then, mine seldom do. Part of life’s rich tapestry, you might say. Because we had just one night available I had selected a hotel close to the beaches, and offering breakfast. The night before departure an email advised me that, thanks to Covid-19, breakfasts were not available in May. A quick look at the map assured me that we would find somewhere to eat not too far away, so off we went! In Tavira the temperatures were hovering around 27C. Not so on the refreshing west coast! Pulling my cotton shirt tight around me, I rounded the corner of the hotel to observe the pretty swimming pool. Waves were rolling across the water, in the icy blast! No idling by the pool with that book, for sure. Supper at the local Mexican restaurant was to have been a spicy compensation. The heat of the jalapenos almost lifted me from my seat, but the burrito, sadly, was cold. Outside people huddled in padded jackets, trying to escape the howling wind. And the last straw? The only dessert available was a chocolate banoffee, and I can’t abide mushy banana. Are you feeling sorry for me yet?

We checked out of the hotel early next morning, under a clear blue sky. The small beachside village of Monte Clerigo was a 5 minute drive, and the day began to look up. The wind still battered us, but I gaped in delight at the expanse of beach that went on, and on… Even I wasn’t foolhardy enough to sit on the outside deck of the beachfront restaurant, but my eyes stayed riveted to the view.

Before too long I was dancing along that beach! Well, more truthfully, heading for shelter, bent double, beneath the cliffs. But with the wind behind me, striding back was a joy. Look at that village, nestled into the hillside! The next task, to climb high above it, to the cliff top.

Steep, uneven steps lead up from the beach, around the back of the pretty village houses, and join with a gravel track. Cars and campervans can drive this stretch and there is even limited off road parking, but after a few minutes you reach the cliff path.

The views sweep away, up and down the coast, breathtaking in their beauty. For a moment you forget the breeze, and then it sucks at your clothing and you fight for balance. Far below, the waves crash. The path is sandy, making your legs feel heavy, sinking unsteadily.

The path twists and turns along the cliff, with every now and then a blue and green striped marker, just to ensure you are still on course. Pockets of tiny blue flowers gaze heavenwards, and a mass of yellow something huddles together, hunkered down against the wind. The fleshy roots of Livingstone daisies beam scarlet against the sand.

The rugged bays stretch ahead and behind, and in places there are strips of boardwalk. Erosion is a constant problem on these cliffs. An old watchtower or abandoned dwelling crumbles silently towards the shore.

We had intended to walk as far as Arrifana Beach, but the buffeting winds and our weary legs brought us to a halt a little short of there, for we still had the return journey to make. Every bit as enticing, the low growing shrubs rolling ahead of us.

But still, I was happy to see the end of the trail, and to collapse into the car, warm from our exertions. Homeward bound, we did stop off at Arrifana, just for a swift peak. A surfer’s bay, it was busy, and the hand rails lined with boards and wet suits. A Sunday lunch spot.

I’d like to dedicate this post to my lovely friend, Marie. She was no walker, but she loved the sight and the sound of the sea. I have to smile, or rather wince, at the memory of one stroll we took together, to catch a breath of sea air. I clumsily jammed a finger in her car door, and the stroll became a sit on the boardwalk, head between my knees. A permanent reminder of Marie, as if I needed one. We spent hours together, watching Rafa pull off yet another French Open, and during lockdown a Saturday night Chinese takeaway at hers was a rare treat. She was a kind and gentle soul, with a strong core. Which she needed for these last weeks have been harrowing. Yesterday evening the call came. Suffering is no more, but a very lovely lady is no longer here to share the laughter and tears.

Marie Teresa Brannan – 3.8.54 – 30.5.21 R.I.P. You will be sorely missed. My love and thoughts are with your family.

walking logo

This was a hard post to finish, but thank you all for sharing it with me. As previously announced, I will be taking a break from blogging. It’s long overdue, and the hot summer days will often find me beside a beach. One last share before I go.

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Come and have a look around Melbourne, with Teresa :

Going Around the City

Munsiyari- what does that mean to you? For me it’s a very beautiful place :

A Morning’s walk

And there’s no doubt that Rupali knows beauty when she sees it :

A walk in the garden: chasing colours – blue and green

Woodland, canal, a chirpy robin… Drake has it all, but those cows are watching you!

If not, so be happy

If it’s adventure you’re wanting, Sarah’s your girl!

A walk on Sausage Island: It’s all about the Elephants

As Mel points out, many Australian place names are unappealing, but never let that stop you walking with her :

Dawdling, Daydreaming and Dillydallying at The Drip, Mudgee

A simple walk, in lovely company! Join Manja and Bestia :

New trail

Marsha has been a source of inspiration, and not a little fun, since the day I met her!

#WQWWC #26: Hope we can make it up Thumb Butte Trail

And Rosemay has been a constant friend. Join her in this adventure :

Exploring Denali National Park – Part 1 (Looking out for Bears, Wolves and Lynxes)

Last, but not least, Carol brings you sensational views :

San Francisco Views

Take care of each other, and get out walking when you can. This morning I will be walking with friends, who all knew Marie. Part of the walk will be on the beach, and afterwards we’ll lunch at a restaurant she loved, and raise a glass. As her son said to me last night, ‘remember the good times’.

196 comments

  2. My sympathies for the loss of your friend, you have such sweet memories of her. I would be happy to brave the wind to wander along those beaches! It’s a great place for a respite.

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  7. Sorry about the food! But your walk was gorgeous! Love the coast, since I grew up there. My walk was more in town of Santa Barbara, but also enjoyed the gorgeous beach views to get there! Have a lovely week, Jesh

    CLOSE TO THE OCEAN

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  9. You described a beautiful place, stormy and wild.
    I was also sorry to hear about your friend. Take care.
    I’ll miss your walks, your cheery commentary, your other wonderful posts, Jo. They made me smile, inspired me to share mine and put Algarve on my bucket list. Hope you come back from the break rejuvenated. Best wishes!

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      1. Things are limping back but one can never be too sure in this pandemic. There is a scramble to get the vaccine which again is proving to be tough in a land of billion people, not enough for everyone. Lying low for now and waiting for the storm to pass.

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  10. I’m so sorry to read about the loss of your friend Jo. Marie sounds like a very special lady. I hope you do manage to remember the good times 🤗

    I loved your windy walk – that’s my sort of beach walk for sure. The weather looks so beautiful in your photos, it’s hard to believe it was quite that blustery.

    I’ll have a walk ready for you later today or possibly first thing tomorrow so will pop back with the link then, but I didn’t want to read this without stopping to express my condolences. Take care and I hope to see you back blogging when you feel ready – I’ll miss seeing you around.

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    1. Thanks a lot for that, Sarah. Marie was almost the first person we met when we bought our Algarve home, 16 years ago, and she was a great friend. She was only widowed 3 years ago and it’s almost impossible to believe that this has happened. I’ll look forward to your walk. 🙂 🙂

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  11. What a wonderful rocky coastline, Jo, and some great images. Very sad to hear of the loss of your friend, Jo. Take care and go easy on yourself Sue xx

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  12. I think I could put up with the wind for views like those, it all looks really lovely. I’m sorry to read about the loss of your friend, Marie sounds like a lovely lady and a friend who will be very much missed. Take care Jo, enjoy your blogging break but come back soon – you’ll be missed 🙂

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    1. Thanks so much, Eunice. The blog has been a great escape while things have been so awful for Marie. I really will miss her.
      I think I could live there too. Have to ditch the husband 🤣💕

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  13. I was all ready to assure you that I did not feel sorry for you at all – a wind-chilled burrito seeming a small price to pay for views like these – until I came to the end. I am very sorry indeed to hear the news about Marie. It has been a very difficult time. You’ll have felt the gentle spirit you describe with you all this morning, her lack of walking being no issue now. I hope you have a wonderful break and have some good things planned. I’m sending a hug xx

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  15. In short order as it’s near midnight and I have been trying to catch up after the weekend.
    1. Yes I did feel sorry for you
    2. The views are spectacular and I am envious
    3. I remember the car door finger episode – but don’t know why
    4. I am sorry for your loss and I am sure you looked after her well over the past months.
    5. Lots of hugs
    6. Enjoy a bit of time off
    7. Say hi every now and then if needed you have my email
    8 love Brian xx

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    1. It’s been traumatic, Brian. I may well email at some point but I still have people to advise of her death, her cat to feed and her house looking at me from across the street. Take good care of yourself and I’ll be around 🤗💕

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  17. It might have been cold, but it’s no less beautiful! I’m so sorry to hear of the loss of your friend, and also sorry that we’ll be losing you from blogging for a while. I think a few are feeling the pressure, me included. It’s supposed to be a hobby not an obligation so when the time feels right – let it go!

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    1. The last few weeks have been awful with regards to Marie and it’s been good to escape into the blog, Anabel. We never really expected that she would die and I need time for the adjustment. Thanks, and have a good summer 🤗💕

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