Jo’s Monday walk : Santiago do Cacém

‘Where shall we go for our anniversary, hon?’  Greeted with the usual shrug and ‘anywhere you want’.  After 31 years I know he doesn’t mean this literally, and current circumstances are such that even I hesitated to suggest anywhere too exciting.  Chicago, Japan and the Isles of Scilly passed fleetingly through my mind, before I settled on a more practical choice, the Alentejo.  Not too far, in driving terms, from our Algarve home, and much of it, for us, still uncharted territory.

The Troia peninsula, just south of Setúbal, holds great appeal, but it’s high summer and the beach hotels are expensive and likely too busy.  So, pointing my nose in that general direction, I settled on slightly obscure but potentially interesting, Santiago do Cacém.  A castle and a church, perched high on a hill.  What could be better….?  Yes, that was the spouse’s reaction when he saw the height of the hill in question.  But we started slowly, chancing upon the TI, beautifully located in gardens, and with an adjoining café.

I freely admit that I had little idea of what else there might be to see, but the gentleman in the TI was very helpful.  We had already passed signs for the Roman ruins of Miróbriga, on the outskirts of town. Time to start a gentle ascent to the castle.  There’s nothing I like better than a meander through quirky streets of crumbling houses, shored up by their smart neighbours, and with a smattering of compelling street art.

A towering pink fire station, dangling laundry, a neglected church with chorus of cherubs and Manueline doorway, a square with pelourinho (or pillory) and magnificently rusted door handles.  Not a bad haul for a couple of streets.  And the tiny courtyard with the shrine to a beloved pet.

So many distractions, I had scarcely noticed the gradient of our climb but finally we reached the Castelo de Santiago do Cacém, built by the Moors.

Originally the castle had 10 square towers and semi-cylindrical turrets, externally defended by a barbican, some of which have survived.  The ancient church of Santiago is integrated into the south east wall.  I had forgotten that the castle, abandoned in the 1700s, had become the town’s cemetery in the 19th century.  Glancing through the archway I saw the tombs and hesitated, not wanting to be disrespectful.  The palace and gardens of the Condes de Avillez adjoin the castle, and for a while I wandered in their atmospheric shade.

Then realisation dawned, and we entered the grounds of the ruined castle.

Rarely have I been in a more serene and lovely place.  I wandered among the tombstones, marveling at the details, and then climbed to the castle walls.  A solitary caretaker was busy removing and tidying, and gave us a cheery wave.

Reluctantly I made my way back through the stone archway, but there was another treat to come.  The door to the Santiago Church was ajar, and I stepped quietly inside.  A lovely young woman beamed at me and gestured that I should come in and enjoy the beautiful surrounds.

The gilded wood carvings told of hours of craftsmanship.  We exchanged smiles again, behind our masks, complicit in our appreciation.  Heading downhill, there was still a colourful surprise in store.  An art gallery, maybe?  I wasn’t sure.

I hope you enjoyed today’s wander.  We had the best view from a hotel room that I can remember in quite some time, and we made it to the top of the hill.  Next week I’ll take you to Miróbriga and the Roman ruins.

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Thanks again everyone, for the appreciation and for keeping me company on my rambles.  Not too many walks to share this week, so please find time to visit.  And if you have a walk you’d like to share, feel free!

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Another week gone.  Halfway through an Algarve summer, where I sometimes feel the need to escape the heat.  Santiago do Cacém was rather a lovely place to do it.  Have a good week and see you next time!

140 comments

  1. I’m curious. Looking at the first photo the castle/church looks a long way from any town, but you seemed to gently walk up there through streets and squares? I guess it’s the way you took that first image. Some of those buildings do look like they need some TLC but that can be said for a lot of places in Portugal I imagine. I’m sure Sue would love all the decay and dereliction, though perhaps not the hill. Do you ever find yourself somewhere you don’t like on your trips away? Or are you just extremely positive and upbeat or lucky?

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    1. Hello, lovely! Sorry, we were just on our way out to supper when I spotted this. Home now. Still 28C 🙂 🙂
      Both Header and that first shot are from our hotel bedroom window, Jude. Perspective and all that. Deceptive. We had a level walk of a few hundred metres to the area where the TI is, and it rises gently from there. I absolutely loved the old winding streets but I think the answer is that I make the best of what is offered. Most places have grungy bits. If I were to write this as a diary you would have more contrast, but what else is a Monday walk than my best view of the world around me? We make our own luck. 🙂

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  2. So glad you were able to get about and visit such a lovely place. I love the photos so much, from the castle to the church the street art and the countryside. Much happiness for an anniversary and may the cake be yours and Mr’s. I would love to pop a bottle of bubbles with you xx

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  4. Jo, a treat of a post … I loved all the aspects of your walk from the first gentle meandering in the town to the castle, then peace of the cemetery and the beautiful church! All wonderfully atmospheric and creative! I hope you both had a most special anniversary day … and save the Japan for another year! 😀

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  7. happy anniversary and this post was so uplifting – I guess we went up the hill with you – and then down into the art areas and even felt some of the serene with you with the cemetery shots.
    also…. I was able to join in with your walk this week, Jo. It was goal to join in once this summer – and I enjoyed the days when I was a regular with your challenge – but you know I got so into flash fiction and other challenges – well sometimes we have to scale back and then also just evolve as we change etc – but I do plan on trying to join in and you are always so hospitable to the many folks who join in regularly or occasionally – cheers and hope you have a nice rest of August
    ~Y

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    1. It’s great to have passion and enthusiasm, wherever you direct it, Yvette. 🙂 I popped in to look at your bikes yesterday so it was a nice surprise to find you here. Summer is a trying time for me. The Algarve gets too hot and I’m too British to handle that well, so my little escapes to find a breeze are a real treat. This year has been especially difficult because of family constraints, but we’re all facing that, and I’ve been lucky to have my youngster here briefly. I’m wittering on! I’d better just come and walk with you 🙂 🙂 Thanks!

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      1. well witter away amiga – and my blogging mode has stalled this summer and so seriously Jo – I am not just saying this – but I was lifted and refreshed with this post! It reminded me of why I love blogging – because my blog experience involves a lot of good photography like you show us here – and shared experiences with touches of personal — however it also reminded me why breaks from blogging are so helpful for me – it is like after the fast I am hungry and maybe savor more – now I am rambling so with that – will saw adios for now – and will join in with a walk again later this year – in the mean time – glad to connect this week

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  9. Pingback: Pathways – Monday Walk with Jo – priorhouse blog

  10. What a gorgeous place and location for an anniversary, Jo! Congratulations, by the way. I love the castle and the views and the picturesque streets on your climb uphill. And, I’m smiling with you at the surprise of all those colors inside the Santiago Church! Who needs to fly and travel far and wide, with all this at your fingertips – by car. 🙂

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    1. Most Portuguese towns have this picturesque old side to them, Liesbet, but we struck lucky with this one. Everything we could have hoped for (though Mick would have liked more cake 🙂 ). Thanks, hon! Hope your week’s going well.

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  12. Happy Anniversary to you, guys! 🧡 I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of seeing photos from Portugal, for me, it’s one of the most beautiful places in Europe. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 😀 Aiva

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  13. What a gorgeous collection of photographs. I love these. You completely captured the character of the place and I definitely felt like I have had a lovely stroll with you this morning. The street art combined with the textured facades are very interesting. I’m sure I would have enjoyed exploring this place as much as it seems you did. Particularly love that green and gold staircase in the church

    A very happy anniversary to you both. Many more to follow, all in good health and happiness to you.

    Peta

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  16. happy anniversary, Jo! what a wonderful walk! you captured in photographs and in words the beauty, peace and history of this lovely town. the Santiago church is truly a gem! thank you for taking us along as always. 🙂 🙂

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  18. When I look at your photos, not only here but in other posts, too, it looks like you live in perpetual sunshine!
    Have a wonderful week,
    Pit

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  19. Beautiful town Joanne. Loved all the old doors, the street art, the Church…
    Please link to Monday Murals if you wish 🙂

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  20. Pingback: Monday walk…walk, ride, or drive? | This, that and the other thing

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