You don’t know what you have, till you’ve lost it? I don’t think I was ever in any doubt about just how precious are our Algarve salt marshes, and the beaches beyond them. One day, towards the end of March, with a State of Emergency in place, I set out to walk, within our prescribed area, from home. Bypassing the town centre I headed past the salt processing centre and on beside the marshes.
The stork, in its nest, feeding young. Just seconds before it had flown overhead, beak stuffed with fish. My camera, too slow to capture.
Out along the road, on their own, two cottages stand together, backs turned to Tavira. The road is narrow here, and paved only on one side. Drivers approaching each other must choose who will mount the low curb to allow passage, a sometimes interesting manoeuvre to observe. And then the road forks, one way passing an orange farm, the other continuing towards Fort Rato and the river beach.
The marshes are home to many birds, wading in the cloudy waters. Everyone stops to watch if the flamingos wander close, wary, but diligent in their search for crill. They are more easily seen from the Quatro Aguas road, or from the deck of the ferry as it chugs out from Tavira.
The abandoned fort broods silently, as it has for the many years since defence from attack by marauding pirates was a threat. I wonder again why no-one has seen this as a business opportunity, but am quietly grateful that they haven’t. This sometimes ugly stretch of river beach is beloved of dog walkers, and small children who can play safely in the shallow waters.
For me, it is my nearest access point to open water, the natural curve sweeping round to meet the river. On the far shore, Quatro Aguas presents its more manicured facade to the sea. I am well used to wandering here, watching the boats come and go, and sometimes venturing into the grounds of the Vila Galé Albacora hotel. There’s a pretty courtyard, with a church, and a small museum dedicated to the fishing industry.
The hotel is closed, like all others since the threat of the virus became known. Restaurants too, and there is nothing now to disturb the peace of the morning. I skirt the boundaries and head back towards Tavira.
Clouds are bubbling up a little, as so often at change of tide. This time I take the turn off past the farm, following the cycle trail. On one side, the salt marshes, stretching towards Cabanas. On the other, the row of palms I’ve come to regard as my Hula ladies, rustling their skirts in the breeze.
I’m heading for home now, beneath the railway tracks and past the Salinas estate. I cross the E125, strangely silent, and follow the road through fields and houses towards the place that I live.
As I’m writing this, I feel the emotions stir for, just a couple of days after this walk, the closure signs went up on Shell Beach. I no longer have access to the sea. I have not tried to walk to Quatro Aguas, but fear this may be similarly out of bounds. Particularly during the Easter period, the police have been vigilant in keeping people safe. I’m hoping that the rules will soon be relaxed a little but, in the meantime, I have the countryside and beautiful hills behind my home and a good stretch of salt marsh. You may have noticed the absence of cake? The cafés are closed, of course, but you can still visit a bakery and take home something nice. Next time, perhaps! Meanwhile, did you spot a few chimney tops along the way? I hope you’re joining in with Becky’s #SquareTops! Looking very dapper today!
When I was young I would often end up here in the Summer holidays. Thanks for the memories, Eunice :
I never can resist a stretch of sea to walk beside, especially if it’s a bit choppy :
Walking along Jeju’s Yongduam Coastal Road & Olle Route 17
The greenkeeper’s got his eye on you, Drake!
It’s amazing what you can find in the desert, isn’t it, Mel?
While Cathy brings us Italy in all its beauty :
Cinque Terre: Charming Portovenere
I’m still sharing walks, though I understand your opportunities are more limited at the minute. I’m just happy to have you virtual travel with me. Stay safe!
restlessjo 
Devastated to hear that you’ve lost access to the sea (my lifeblood) but happy to know you still have the countryside to ramble in. Thanks for taking me on this virtual walk today.
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Making the best of what we have. Portugal hopes to reopen for business next month, for better or worse 😍
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What a lovely walk. Those blues are so bright and cheery! I love the piles of salt against the blue sky. I’m sure it must be sad to lose access to the beach, Jo. I guess you’ll be land-bound for a while, but I hope not too long. Enjoy what you can!
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No worries, Cathy 🙂 🙂 We had a lovely walk in the lanes this morning. I was just feeling a bit glum over Easter, but it’s behind us now. Looking ahead!
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Good! Keep the faith!
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Jo, it is sad not having your usual access to the sea, but the good times will return and the longer walks by the sea will be even more special. I do miss having a nice cake and coffee at a lovely outdoor restaurant or coffee shop.
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Yes. Our neighbour, who is on her own, misses that and the odd meal out very much. We do ok for cake because the bakery is an essential part of life here, and still open, but the company is irreplaceable. 🤗💕
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It’s a beautiful walk Jo!
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Yes, I think so, Amy 🙂 🙂
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As you say Jo we often don’t know what we have until it’s gone. Hopefully in this case it will be temporary and you can soon walk down to the sea again. It looks so serene and tranquil in your photos – the salt flats are amazing. Thankfully you can still walk in the hills and countryside behind your home and by the sounds of it to a section of the salt marsh. Thanks for sharing the photos – it is uplifting to read posts about other parts of the world and share our current experiences. In the meantime stay safe and take care xx 🙂
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I do know how lucky I am. Try not to wear my grumpy head, but Mick says he wouldn’t recognise me without it 🙂 🙂
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I have my moments too!! xx
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It’s so beautiful Jo, and it will all be waiting for you the next time you can go.
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You’re right, darlin. It will 🙂 🙂
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💜
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Oh that is sad that you no longer have access to the sea, but at least you have the countryside. One day this will all be over. It might be a while, but we will not be stopped forever I think. Wonderful photos.
Alison
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Thanks, Alison 🙂 🙂 I’m like the weather- a bit changeable at the minute, but mostly happy.
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Yeah, me too!
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Fabulous shots of the area, the skies, clouds, everything, Jo! What a beautiful Easter day you spent. It won’t be long until the crowds and cake are back!
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The cake’s still here, Terri. Priorities 🙂 🙂 🙂 Thanks for your company, hon!
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Lovely photos, and so calm like mirrors. Excellent that you out and getting fresh air and exercise.
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Thanks a lot! It’a a beautiful world out there 🙂 🙂
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Photos wonderful as always, but the skies! How gorgeous.
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The clouds have been fabulous lately, Mari. I was up on the roof taking photos after dark last night, then heavy overnight rain and back to sparkly sunshine. 🙂 🙂 Take care, hon!
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It’s nice you can still stretch your legs around where you live and see something beautiful while enjoying the weather and the blue sky. I did notice the absence of cake and blamed it on cafes being closed. I guess you could still get something at a bakery, like you said. Maybe next time, indeed? 🙂 We have avoided take-out food so far, even though it has been tempting, especially these last two VERY long days of driving and not having dinner until past 9pm.
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We are trying to support our local small restaurant, Liesbet. Times are so hard for them, and profits will be minimal at the best of times. And it’s lovely to have a night off cooking 🙂 🙂
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Times are a’changin’ Jo and I am not sure any of us will come of this unchanged. It certainly makes us appreciate what is around us and all the little things we have taken for granted over the years, like a simple stroll in the neighbourhood. Thanks for sharing your beautiful backyard. Maybe we should all do the same. Have a great day and thanks for the share, Melx
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I think we should, Mel. I’ll be sharing a countryside option next week. Take care 🤗💕
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I’m so grateful to you for sharing this walk Jo and sad you can’t take it at the moment. I miss access to the beach so much and now the weather has packed in, the local tracks are less appealing. I’m not sure what the new normal will be, but I hope it includes beach access!
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I just had a compensation hour or so round our back lanes, Su. There are big black storm clouds now so we just made it! I found myself smiling at so much along the way. It’s no time to despair, but Easter was getting to me a bit. 10 minutes chat with the young un while he was cooking in their kitchen last night helped. And he’s in a much worse situation than me. Sending hugs, darlin 🤗💕💕
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I understand Jo. Sending big Kiwi hugs back at ya.
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There you are, Jo! I have a walk this week, as I knew you were going to be walking. It IS a shame not to be able to go to your usual places, but if you can get out and walk around at all, it’s a blessing. I think of all the people in apartments and big cities who have nowhere to go at all and I’m grateful! Anyway, I didn’t need any pastries, so don’t worry about it. 🙂
https://sustainabilitea.wordpress.com/2020/04/13/monday-walk-into-the-sun/
janet
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My son is one of those, Janet. Talking to him tonight he says that the Easter weekend was really difficult because the weather was good and everyone wanted to be in the parks. I don’t have cause for complaint. I just wish the end was in sight, for everyone’s sake. Thanks for the walk 🙂 🙂
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No cake and no sea!? I’m sorry, Jo. It’s so true that there are “little” things that we will never again take for granted. Sending my warmest wishes to you. 🙂
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A slightly different walk from you but still interesting and still with water and blue skies! You have nothing to complain about! My walks become a little boring because although there are several lanes, they all look the same and they all have the same floral attributes. Just the views are different. One way we can see Godrevy lighthouse, the other St Michael’s Mount. Both so near and yet so far… and at the moment I have watering eyes, possibly due to pollution drifting in over Cornwall from the European mainland. I think you are far better off where you are in Portugal. But whether cafes and restaurants will open any time soon is debatable. In Italy the health minister thinks not until there is a vaccine as those places cannot keep social distancing easily. I fear life as we knew it is not going to return to normal for some time to come.
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Thank you, my little ray of sunshine 🙂 🙂 I know lots of people who’d be besotted with either of those views. The bit I don’t envy you is the cows! Watering eyes is common as you get older, chuck. Mine do, too, and Mick is on allergy tablets to combat it. I really didn’t think I was complaining. Merely pointing out what is forbidden and next week I’ll drag you off down the lanes, watery eyes or not 🙂 🙂
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Some pollution drifting over from the continent – really bad on Saturday when we went for our walk. Be good to see your lanes and compare 🙂
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What sort of pollution, I wonder? If it’s not one darn thing…. Grrr 🙂 🙂 You have actually seen a lanes post a while ago and I remember you being reasonably impressed. I don’t like boundaries though, and the shifty expressions on people when you pass. Though they’re usually fine in the country. Supper yet? I’ve just done roast pork and Yorkshires. Cooked, would you believe? Soon be wine time 🙂 🙂
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Yorkshires, yum! Gammon and cabbage here. 😊
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Spuds? If not you guys are too good to live 🙂 🙂 I’m stuffed but still thinking about chocolate coated nuts…
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A few small new potatoes, and carrots. No chocolate nuts though and if they are Brazils, OH will probably be on the next plane. If there was one.
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That’s ok, then! I hate Brazils 🙂 🙂 And walnuts, for the record! Mick loves both…
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In such a short span much as changed, I’ll never take rambling walks ever for granted now that I’m stuck indoors. Looking at your pictures makes me crave for it all. Once again, an excellent post and I loved the mountains of salt .
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Sorry, Sheetal- I seem to’ve missed a couple of comments this past day or two. Not sure if it’s WP or trying to keep up daily posting for Becky’s challenge. Thunder and lightening is crashing over my head right now, and it definitely sounds as if the Gods have been angered. I’m lucky that I can still get out and walk, but this has certainly changed my outlook. 🙂 🙂 Thanks for your company!
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I could do with a bit of thunder and lightning to shake things up 🙂 If nothing else , at least the temperature will drop a few degrees … Summer is coming !
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