Jo’s Monday walk : Beja Blues

Last week was such a dreamy post, wasn’t it?  I’m moving a little nearer home, and reality, this week, to the main town of the Baixa Alentejo.  It was a long haul, going north to Marváo, and we decided to break the journey at Beja, where we had a little unfinished business.  Namely, the Convent of Our Lady of Conception, part of the Regional Museum of Beja since 1927.  Foolishly we had tried to visit once before, on a Monday but, like most other churches and museums in Portugal, it was closed on that day.

I’ve never really hit it off with Beja.  Some places speak volumes to me, others simply mutter.  Beja comes in that last category.  Still, everywhere deserves a second chance, and I knew that the museum was worth visiting.  The day had turned sullen as we left the Algarve, and the skies hung heavy over the castle.  Not an auspicious start, and the square in front of the castle was being dug up and re-tiled.  Skirting around a digger, I looked in through the Cathedral doors, not feeling inclined to linger.  I knew that the museum would be closing soon for lunch.

It’s a short distance through the narrow streets to the Convent square.  The former Convento da Conceição was founded in 1459 by Dom Fernando, brother of Afonso V of Portugal, and his wife Dona Beatriz.  Part of the Franciscan order, it was one of the richest and most important in the country.

Now part of the Rainha Dona Leonor Regional Museum, a hush descended as we entered through the Manueline portico, beneath beautifully curved arches.  Immediately in front of us, the church.  The lights were low and my eyes took a moment or two to adjust.

The first thing to hold my gaze was the tiled azulejo panel, dated 1741 and depicting the life, birth and death of St. John the Baptist.  The church is covered in carved wood and gold leaf, dating back to the 17th century.  Excessive to modern eyes, as was the array of highly polished silverware from the 18th century.  I felt truly grateful not to be the lady with the polish, but I did admire the altar of inlaid marble.

Leaving the subdued atmosphere of the church, I found myself in fabulously, fully tiled cloisters.  This was what I had come to see.  There is always an atmosphere of soothing calm to cloisters, and the soft glow of sunlight enhanced their beauty.

Beautiful, isn’t it?  Even in its unrestored state, it’s one of my favourite pieces.  But there’s no doubt there is money to be spent here… one day!

Some of the detail was extraordinary, but don’t take my word for it.  Becky does it so much better in Convento de Nossa Senhora da Conceicáo’s Extraordinary Azulejos  Speaking of the lovely lady, are you taking part in #SquareTops today?  It’s a blockbuster!  Here are my two.

The colours and mix of styles is captivating.  I’ve seen many cloisters here in Portugal, but none quite like these.

I ventured up the stairs, hoping to be able to get out onto the roof space, but it was closed to the public.  I learned instead of Mariana Alcorforado, a nun at the Convento, who fell in love with a French officer.  Noel Bouton, Count de Chamilly, was in Beja with his troops in 1666.   The evidence of her unrequited love lives on in five love letters.  The fabric below, I included for my daughter.  She loves antique embroidery!

Back in the open, we found a café in the square overlooking the museum.  It was unbelievably quiet, though the virus had barely been heard of.  I wasn’t really hungry but wanted to sit peacefully with a glass of wine, before continuing our journey.  We ordered a toastie, but the waitress explained that they didn’t sell wine.  We could, though, buy it at the store next door!  Seeing our baffled faces, she must have taken pity on us.  Five minutes later she reappeared from next door, bearing two very delicious glasses of wine.  I think perhaps Beja looked better for it.

A wander through the streets revealed a strange mish-mash of old and new.  I didn’t really warm to Beja, but it doesn’t lack for character and humour.  And there’s a chance I’ll return, for I’ve realised that a substantial part of the museum is sited within the Church of Santo Amaro, beyond the castle walls.  Oh, dear!  But I did enjoy the street art.

They say a cat can look at a king!  Or a queen, in Becky’s case.  Do join her!

walking logo

Let’s share some walks now, shall we?  I’ve a humdinger to start with!  In Portugal too, with Debbie :

Remains of past industry

While Drake takes us to that tiny island he knows so well :

A fugitive crosses his tracks

And Terri shares some truly spectacular scenery :

Walking in the Valley of Fire

Everybody round to Margaret’s for Drenched Lemon Cake!  Well, virtually, anyway  🙂

Round the Edge of the Village: It’s All About the Texture

We can no longer walk on our beaches in the Algarve, so this is very poignant from Miriam :

Virtual walking on Phillip Island

In the early morning mists, we find Irene :

View from the Top

With first hand knowledge of China, share this epic journey with Indra :

Suzhou… Gossamer Antiquity

Always with a gentle, distinctive touch, there’s no mistaking Lynn’s love for nature :

LOCAL WALKS: Heart Lake

While Rupali looks at her world through eyes filled with beauty :

Simplicity

And Cathy experiences the excesses of tourism in Italy.  Certainly not any longer!

The Cinque Terre: A crowded hike to Vernazza

I don’t know about you, but I’m ready for another cuppa.  Did somebody mention cake?  Please, stay safe out there!

100 comments

  1. So you are able to go to museums and cafes right now? Or was this written about a prior visit? Such a colorful place – I’m glad it appealed more upon your return!

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  2. Jo, I think we did travel through Beja on our tour of Portugal last year, but can’t remember for sure. Even though the town has not been one of your favorites, it sounds like the museum was definitely worth a visit. How lovely that you got a nice glass of wine at the end of your visit.

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    1. We manage a glass of wine in most places, Gilda. Not now, of course, but we still have some at home. Just had Portuguese strawberries and ice-cream on the roof. Could be much worse. And yes, the museum was well worth seeing. 😍💕

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  3. For quite some time I haven’t got a “like” button under your posts, Jo. Where it’s supposed to apear I only see the text “loading …”. So then, this here 🙂 is my “like”.

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    2. I have the same problem with some posts, Pit. I’ve noticed that if you put a comment in the like button magically appears. Go figure! Sometimes refreshing the post helps… Sometimes not. Life’s too short to worry. I know you’re out there. Stay safe 😉💕

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  5. oh I am so glad you finally made it into the convent. Just extraordinary isn’t it. I worry though how much longer it will be there to enjoy, you are so right about it needing money spent on it.

    Totally understand what you mean about Beja, it is a bit of an odd place. Did you find the trouser planters?!

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    2. Er… No? But I did say we’ll have to go back one day for the other half of the museum. Totally missed that but we wouldn’t have had time anyway. Originally planned an overnight stop there but quite glad we didn’t. 🤗💕

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  6. Wherever you seem to arrive at, the tiles are always beautiful and this week you’ve found us a remarkable lot to admire. I especially liked the one called Rua Mertola,1936. So unusual. The cloisters look beautiful, too.

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    1. I knew there were hidden gems, Mari, and sometimes it’s worth persisting. It’s a place my husband rather likes. Spot the difference between us!, 😍💕

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  7. Funny how some places feel ‘right’ and others don’t, yet you can’t put a finger on why. So many ornate features here but my favourite just has to be the blue and white tile picture with the donkey – simple and beautiful 🙂

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  8. Pingback: Without rush and stress | Le Drake Noir

  11. Thank you for the beautiful walk, Jo. Your photographs are stunning! My friend’s aunt lived her entire adult life in a convent in Spain…not sure I could do that. 🙂 Happy Monday!

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  15. I know what you mean about some places not talking to you, Jo. But they usually do in the end! I find repeat visits often encourage them to become more fluent 🙂
    Those cloisters are amazing – now on my list!!

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  16. Lovely set of photos Jo and the cloisters look especially beautiful. I love the old tapestry fabric too. Alas the poor nun and her unrequited love story – I guess being cooped up in the convent didn’t help matters! Hope you’re doing well in the odd circumstances we all find ourselves in, have a good week and take care! xx 🙂

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    1. I think we’re all a bit up and down at the minute, Rosemay. Is Mlle out of quarantine yet? That will make a huge difference to you. 🙂 🙂 I definitely couldn’t live the convent life, unless I was let out for very long walks!

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      1. Yes I certainly need to get out for my daily walks too Jo! No she has 4 days to go of her quarantine period. The police came by last week to check up on her!! All routine – they are doing spot checks on returning travellers to make sure they are complying with the mandatory quarantine. So far so good – will be so glad to get to the end of this time as it’s weird living in the the same house and not being able to mingle properly. Mlle is desperate to get out of the house for a walk or bike ride! Stay safe and well xx 🙂

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      3. Thanks Jo – thought I’d do these little vignettes to try and lift the spirits. Glad you’re still posting your walks and life in the Algarve as it’s a very pleasant distraction 😃😃 One day we’ll be able to travel again in the meantime we can enjoy virtual travel via blogs etc. I will start up some travel posts again probably after Easter – think I need to wait till Mlle’s out of quarantine to properly relax!

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      1. It’s odd, isn’t it, how some places just don’t speak to us despite what others think? But you made a great travelogue for us in any case.

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  18. So it might need to be third time visit to Beja Jo. But those pictures were captivating, especially the gorgeous colour and details of those cloisters. Thanks for including my walk. Cheers my friend. 😍

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  19. Lovely photos Jo, these are all places that I’ve never heard of as we haven’t visited Spain a lot apart from the touristy holiday resorts. Would love to travel around after this crisis and see some of those out of the way towns and villages.

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    1. This is in Portugal, Jonno. The Alentejo is the next ‘county’ heading north from the Algarve. It took us about 2 hours to get there, and then another 2 and a half up to Marváo. A lovely part of the world. I’m staying within our borders for the foreseeable…. 🙂 🙂

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