Jo’s Monday walk : Castelo de Vide

A hazy beauty, not quite real?  Looking back to just over two weeks ago, I have to wonder if I dreamt it.  But no- as so often, my photographs tell the story.  Castelo de Vide, in Portugal’s Alto Alentjo, a world away from our current woes.

I had come in search of a mighty fortress, at hilltop Marvão, and all I knew of Castelo de Vide was its spa waters, bottled on shelves as far away as the Algarve.  But where there are castles, there is often a sad interlude in history, and so it is, here.  During the Spanish Inquisition, many Jews fled across the border to make their home within these castle walls.  And the resulting Jewish quarter is like nowhere I’ve ever seen.  Complete with Synagogue, though the international crisis was catching up with even this remote place, and I was unable to look inside.

The castle itself was closed for renovation, but I had climbed the hill anyway.  How glad I was, for it was not the castle itself that was the prize.  The medieval streets within the walls were astounding, with solid stone doorways, preserved in all their beauty, though some needed a little help.

Within the castle walls, the 17th century church of Nossa Senhora da Alegria, resplendent with Moorish-styled tiles, and surrounded by the tumbling, spellbinding streets of the Juderia.  In the sleepy warmth below, the town was awakening to market day, the calls of the vendors noisily jostling for trade.  I slipped inside the main church, Santa Maria da Devasa, to pay my respects.  A lady, rummaging in her handbag, pulled out spectacles and a sheaf of music, and into the hush began to practise on the organ.  As I listened, smiling, another bustled in with two bags full of white lilies, which she placed beside the altar.  The life of the church, unchanging.

Outside the church, a modern sculpture, mother tenderly regarding small child.  And a fountain, one of 300 in the area, I’d been led to believe.  I came across several more.  In a quiet square, the Fonte da Vila, with four marble spouts, a coat of arms, and a tribute to Jewish victims.

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I was beginning to need a coffee, and hoped to sample boleima, a type of Jewish unleavened bread with apple and cinnamon.  Or something sweet.

The clock on the town hall chimed and it was time to move on.  Sadly my visit was coming to an end.  King Dom Pedro V described this town as the “Sintra of the Alentejo”, and I had felt something of the same magic.

As if sorry to see me go, the clouds began to swoop in across the hills.  I crossed the gardens, turning for one last look.

It’s a tenuous link, but here I am, back in the Algarve, looking at the lovely Serra de Sáo Mamede and its towns and villages, from a Distance.  Easter and Holy Week are very special and traditional in this part of the world.  I can’t conceive of it this year, but I hope that one day, in the future, I might cross that distance again.  Meantime, many thanks to Tina and the lovely Lens-Artists ladies for keeping us strong.

walking logo

Still sharing!  It’s what we do best here in blogland.  Stay safe out there!

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As heart warming a walk as I’ve ever taken.  Thank you so much, Drake!

Walks have to be started

It’s therapeutic getting out there in nature, as Alice will tell you :

The Blue Heron Nature Trail

And Eunice is still determined to enjoy beach and countryside :

Lytham/ St. Annes -a walk in two parts

Margaret sums it all up succinctly :

The Last Walk Before Lock Down

And Rupali smiles at us, from a distance :

Weekend 88 : Distance

I think we’re all agreed that Becky is a ‘Top Notch’ blogger.  It’s 1st April soon (no fooling!) :

Streets of Spitalfields

Happy to share a poetic stroll beneath the birch trees, with Jude :

The Birks of Aberfeldy

And I found a fascinating walking tour of Porto, for the future :

‘Other cities in the city’: a social history walking tour of Porto

While Cathy shares a good slice of the exotic :

Morocco: Aroumd to Imlil to Essaouira

Saving this treat for last.  Don’t miss Pauline’s lovely photography and wonderful artwork!

Day 2 of the birthday get away

It’s an amazing world out there, isn’t it?  I’m so glad we can share it together.

149 comments

  2. The pastry looks scrummy, Jo. Is it “boleima”? When I look at travel photos and such dazzling blue skies as in your beautiful captures, it feels a world away from where we are at the moment. Was it only a month ago that I could step out without thinking of social distancing? I cannot wait for summer and the hope that this phase shall soon be a distant memory. Meanwhile, I shall allow PJs full sway over my life. x

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    1. Oh, bless you! I go through phases of being depressed, especially when the weather deteriorates and I can’t get out (even though I know it’s great for the reservoirs and there aren’t any tourists) but mostly I try to stay positive. I had a lovely walk through the salt marshes today, but, yes- keeping your distance isn’t a comfortable feeling. The back lanes around here are pretty quiet. And that’s biscuit cake- a favourite of my husband. Sending hugs 🙂 🙂

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      1. Biscuit cake sounds delightful. I will take it. 🙂

        At such times I guess we train our gaze inwards? Along with walks as much as the situation allows. I shudder at the thought of no walks outside in the fresh air. O time machine where art thou? Hugs and love. xx

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  4. Finally got here! I see the blog posts on my phone, but prefer to use the computer to comment so I end up with a backlog! Still sunny here, but running out of things to do in the garden! I am saving the wall renovation for warmer weather! And I don’t know now whether I will receive the plants I ordered months ago. It’s all a bit sad in the gardening world. But at least I have one to potter around in.

    I enjoyed visiting this town with you. Love the old streets and the dereliction on those doors and windows, the white buildings, the blue sky. You picked a good place to settle in and I hope you are not confined for too long. Good that you have lanes to walk in even if, like me, you can’t access the beach. Oh, and plenty of textures in this post too!

    Stay safe 😘❣

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    1. Oh that explains it. I often notice you like something and the comment appears much later. Yes, it’s a good place to be. We had a lovely walk out this morning and I’ve let Marie drag me out again this afternoon but she doesn’t walk far or fast. If only I could get back to see my boy. But you can’t have everything. Keep smiling hon 😉💕💕

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      1. As long as they are all OK. That’s the main thing. And two walks a day? You are a rebel. Here we are only supposed to go out once a day, but no indication for how long! All very confusing. 😕

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  5. It must seem like a lifetime ago Jo, with all of the restrictions and issues we now have. Lovely photos and what a delicious looking cake. Hope you can still get out for beautiful sunny walks like this over the coming days and weeks.

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    1. Hi Jonno 🤗. Yes fast becoming a distant memory but a very lovely one. We have had a mixed bag of weather this week, with quite a lot of much needed rain. Good for the reservoirs but not so good for the spirits. But we’ve managed quite a few local walks between rainy days and are trying to stay positive. How are you 2 doing? 🤣💕

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      1. We’re doing fine thanks Jo, now we are settled into our new self contained apartment. Just laying low and getting out for a long walk each day. Both feeling well too.

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  7. The Alto Alentjo region looks gorgeous Jo and Marvao a fascinating place. Such a poignant history with the Jews trying to escape from the Spanish Inquisition. The images are evocative – the sort of place I would love to explore. For now we can only dream of future travels whilst staying close to home. Take care xx 🙂

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    1. We have a rainy week, which I find is matching my mood, Rosemay. I’m just trying to be grateful that we don’t have visitors right now. They might not be impressed. There is always a bright side, isn’t there, but it’s not always easy to find. We should have been going ‘home’ this week. Instead I shall grab my brolly and go and post some Easter cards. I don’t even know if they’ll get there. 😦 Stay safe, darlin!

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      1. Aww sorry to hear that Jo I can well understand that you’d be feeling a bit low with the weather and enforced cancellation of your planned UK visit. I know there’s facetime and Skype but it’s not quite the same. You’re doing better than I am – decided to give Easter cards a miss this year. It feels surreal hardly being able to celebrate or do much. My granddaughters are concerned the Easter bunny’s plans will be thwarted by the virus 😦 We are luckily having beautiful autumnal weather, which helps a lot but I do also have my ups and downs. It will be much easier when Mlle has completed her self isolation period and we can at least live normally under the same roof! Weird at present with all the distancing! Take care and stay safe! xx 🙂

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      3. Aww that’s cute 😃 The Easter bunny leaves non edible eggs and treats round our garden which the girls collect in baskets then they get a present at the end (not too much sugar though)! He also manages to visit their own house – certainly he’s a busy bunny but since Western Australia has closed its borders he may have trouble hopping by!

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      1. All OK Jo 🙂 I have been away so doing a catch up. It is hopeless trying do get things done on the phone or tablet. Sorry for being brief. New regulations came into affect today so trying to work out how to get together with K. She needs me to keep her spirits up with all the stuff going on in her life at the moment.

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      2. No worries, darlin. I’m a bit down myself because I should have been going to England this week to see the youngsters. Just so long as you’re alright. Keep smiling. 🙂 🙂

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      1. Oh dear, just enjoy that view! I’ve just given you another walk in Portugal to enjoy. I stated writing it up for last Monday and I finally finished it! Take care, Jo x

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  16. Having to self-isolate I’m getting a bit cabin-crazy but hope it will soon settle down and I can get out and about without people muttering about how I’m endangering the neighbourhood. Moi? I think I might buy a dog, seems the only way I can go for a walk without accusatory looks.

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    1. Do you live in town, Mari? I find people are much more accepting when I’m walking down a country lane. 🙂 🙂 It’s funny- there are so many things I could, or should, be doing… but settling to do them…? My self discipline is sadly lacking 😦

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  19. What a stunning walk today my friend. At some point, our world will once again feel balanced and allow us to stroll & discover as we once did. Thank you for sharing 💕

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