Jo’s Monday walk : Fuseta to Olháo

Something to always bear in mind when walking around our salt marshes is that they are tidal.  In a spirit of adventure, just after Christmas, I set out to explore the stretch between Fuseta and Olháo, entirely overlooking this fact.  In my defense, I was following the Algarve Cycle Trail and hadn’t envisioned that crossing water would be an issue.  On a glorious, sunny morning, I caught the train to Fuseta A (there are 2 stations in this small village, and the other one isn’t Fuseta B!)  A right turn will take you past the former fishermen’s houses and onto the coastal path.

Out in the bay the former coastguard station looks on without comment.  It’s a calm and peaceful scene, many people having not yet returned from the  holiday.  Birds wander, pecking and poking in the shallows, completely undisturbed when the occasional cyclist passes by.  The railway line also follows the coast, with minimal impact.  The colours of the heather are a lovely contrast in this sometimes dowdy landscape.

As often happens, a signpost throws confusion into the calm, either direction appearing to lead to Olháo.  The longer of the two, though interesting, doubles back on itself, but not before I have spotted the nesting storks, a rather endearing frog and a hoopoe.

Now it may seem a little early, but the sun is very warm and a decision is needed.  The perfect place to make it presents itself, a small restaurant, ‘O Farol’.  Does anyone mind a cake stop?  His and hers, of course!  Mine is the almond tart.

Decision made, we head in the general direction of the coast, hoping to be able to continue around the bay to Praia dos Cavacos.  And as luck would have it, we’re able to tiptoe around the edge of the sand and reach a boardwalk that looks quite new.  The surrounding buildings are unconventional, and ornamented with some rather wonderful artwork.

We are never out of touch with the quiet salt pans, which breathe life into this landscape.  You may have thought it all going swimmingly (bad choice of words  🙂  ) but a slight hiccup is just around the corner.

The railway track, which has followed us so patiently, decides to leap a gully full of water.  We shake our heads.  It’s too big a leap for human legs.  A family of cyclists approach from the direction of Olháo.  When they passed this way earlier the tide was out.  Bravely they hoist their cycles and cross the precarious track.  The alternative for us is a very long walk, so we grimace and hasten across the gap.  My heart is thudding.  If a train should suddenly appear… but minutes later we are in the heart of the nature reserve known as Quinta de Marim.

The plan was to skirt this park, and stay close to the campsite at Olháo.  But it’s simply a relief to be across the water.

The tidal mill is a beautiful sight at high tide.  It has not been operational since 1970, but the equipment still looks ready for action. I clamber up to the roof and look out across the water, to the low-lying barrier island, Armona.

The sun is low in the sky as we finally reach Olháo.  The contemporary theatre, itself a converted mill, stands in sharp contrast to the crumbling facades of neighbouring buildings.  Oblivious, the birds cavort on a high wire above.  Soon all trace of Christmas will be gone.

For us, it’s time to catch a train home.  If you should happen to repeat this walk, be very aware of the tide times.  And meanwhile, many thanks for accompanying me on the adventure that is the new year.

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Not too many walks to read as you get back into a routine.  Join me any time here on Jo’s Monday walk.  The welcome is always the same.

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Janet has enormous fun in a museum!

WNDRful walk

And we all know that Jackie never lets the side down :

Christmas Fare

No place like home, but Drake is happy to hang his hat in a number of places :

Not that boring

While Sandra takes me back to one of the most beautiful places I have ever been :

#Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, #Portugal

Irene shares the beauty of a beach in winter :

Winter Day on the Dunes

And Indra, the lush landscape of :

Ng Tung Chai Waterfalls-Hong Kong

In stark contrast, Karen takes us to Australia, where heat is a killer.  Do please donate something, if you can :

A parched walk in the Blue Mountains

Candy combines a history lesson with a great walk.  I had no idea!

The Roman Walls of Lugo

And Cathy takes us back to a very beautiful mosque :

Casablanca: Back to Hassan II, a walk along the Corniche, & Quartier des Habous 

Happy New Year to anyone I’ve missed.  Onwards and upwards!

110 comments

  1. Beautiful walk. And oh yes, it’s always wise to be aware of the tides. I learned that the hard way. We live on the edge of a salt marsh and have to take tides into account for all sorts of reasons (including taking a walk). 🙂

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    1. I thought you were going to say bored with my blue skies, for a moment, Anabel! 🙂 🙂 I hate drab grey skies and it was a big motivator in making the move here.

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  3. Another beautiful day for a walk, Jo. Clouds and rain seem so rare there, but then I guess you wouldn’t go out walking in that kind of weather. I love the street art and the salt pans, and I’m glad you made it despite the tides and the threat of trains. What a perfect way to start the new year!

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    1. Just before Christmas we had 2 or 3 really cloudy days. We had a walk organised in a similar area, and I wasn’t keen to go, but the reflections and moody colours in the salt pans were wonderful. There’s always beauty, if we look. Rain isn’t so good for walking though- just for dancing in puddles 🙂 🙂

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    1. Yes, I imagine the Camargue to be similar, Janet (but with horses 🙂 ). It’s an area I always wanted to visit, after the Canal du Midi. Perhaps there’s still time? It was a fabulous day, with temps around 21C, which is rare here for late December, and we made the most of it. Many thanks, hon!

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  15. A brave expedition, Jo, and glad it had a good end. But rather you than me with those tidal-railway negotiations. Almond tart looks mouth-watering though, and as ever I so envy your blessed light and all round blueness. Weird gloom in Shropshire today.

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  16. A lovely sunny walk to brighten up a very dull and grey morning 🙂 I would have gone for it and crossed the track, and as for cake it would have to be your hubby’s choice 🙂 I love the two sandy photos above the signpost and the coast shot below the cake – gorgeous 🙂

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  17. Loved this walk Jo 🙂 I agree with Becky get better maps. Google Maps sends people coming to my place well out of the way. I would have walked the rail line as well. I used to walk rail lines as a kid all the time. You should have known about the walk as it was a real cyclepath of a walk 😀

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    1. My perverse other half likes the adventure of finding his way, Brian. Must be the boy scout in him 🙂 🙂 I’m a bit more of a wuss and prone to having a wobble in some circumstances. He always gets me out of trouble in the end, though 🙂

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  18. A great walk, Jo. I really enjoyed striding out with you, but personally I turned back at the railway track! 😉
    Given your tidal awareness, I strongly recommend you do not walk around Mont St Michel!!

    I’ll be back with a walk a bit later.

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    1. We used to do part of this walk with the Strollers, long ago, Debs, and that’s exactly what they did 🙂 🙂 Sometimes you just have to give it a go! Thanks, darlin!

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    1. We did use Google maps but they have a limited use out there. Makes a good story, though 🙂 🙂 And on yesterday’s walk with the choir we ended up in a similar predicament in a very different place. Maybe it’s fate 🙂

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