Jo’s Monday walk : A Tale of three Castles- 3. Dunstanburgh

Our last day on the Northumberland coast got off to a gloomy start.  Persistent drizzle clung to the windows and rooftops.  Worse yet, my husband announced, limping down to breakfast, that he thought his gout might have returned.  The medication was something I had neglected to pack, this being just a short break.  We had planned to drive further up the coast to Alnmouth, where we last stayed when our son was small.  And, selfishly, I could not bear to be this close to Dunstanburgh Castle without at least taking a look.  Armed with the golf brolly, he agreed to give it a go!

Alnmouth, though charming, did not invite us to linger, despite the determinedly cheery exterior of the Sun Inn.  Memories of sitting amongst the dunes, in strong sunlight, warmly wrapped against the breeze, and with a small, ‘happy as a sand’ boy, seemed very far distant.

Given the situation, driving was easier than walking.  The wide ranging views I’d hoped for were swallowed up in the gloom, but a surprising number of people were parked in the tiny village of Craster.  The walk along the coast, from here to Dunstanburgh, is deservedly well known.  I had scarcely left the car park when I was captivated by the soft webbing of droplets, clinging to these hardy plants.

It was obvious that he could not limp far but, given a slight break in the rain, I was keen to walk this dramatic coast.  We agreed that I should sprint ahead, while he took it at his own pace, hanging on to the umbrella for support. There, in the distance, was the prize.

The sheep were quite oblivious to its beauty, us walkers far more susceptible to charm.  On the shoreline a sequence of cairns had me hovering with camera for a while.  A mother and daughter, close by, were gleeful in their discoveries.

Almost there now, it’s time for a little history.  Dunstanburgh Castle was built by Earl Thomas of Lancaster, the most powerful baron at the time of Edward II.  Begun in 1313, it was a mighty statement of Lancaster’s intent.  Unfortunately for him, the earl failed to reach the safety of Dunstanburgh when his rebellion was defeated.  Kings not being very forgiving in those days, he was executed in 1322.  John of Gaunt, 4th son of Edward III, inherited the castle on marriage, in 1362.  He subsequently strengthened the castle, converting the twin-towered gatehouse into a keep.  Fierce fighting took place during the Wars of the Roses and the castle was twice besieged, falling into Yorkist hands.  In the late 15th/16th century Dunstanburgh fell into disrepair, too far from the Scottish border and a main road to be of strategic importance.  Over time it became a romantic ruin, famously painted by landscape artist Turner.

Although I’ve done this walk before, I had never been inside the castle ruins.  The sky had brightened for a little while and I simply had to grab the opportunity, while I could.  The layout and scale of the site took me completely by surprise.

Climbing gently away from the gatehouse, you come to Lilburn Tower, with sweeping views across the fine sands of Embleton Bay.  The curtain wall along the coast is still largely intact.  Beyond it a steep cliff drops to shore, then tapers down to meet the sea.

Again I’m taken with the droplets of rain, this time on wildflowers scrambling along the top of the wall.  It turns at right angles, and climbs back up to the keep.  I am amused to see a notice suggesting we take care not to step on the frogs.  Sure enough, there in a puddle, a lively looking chap!

Just time to scoot up the tower, and then I need to get back down and find the other half.  It’s starting to mizzle again, and he’s got the brolly.

That’s quite enough of ‘weather’, for a while, isn’t it?  And probably of castles too.  Today English Heritage manages the castle and National Trust are responsible for the coastline.  Full details of opening times and how to get there are available on the link.  Oh, heck!  No cake this week.

Many thanks to all of you for trekking out with me, in all weathers.  It’s very much appreciated.  Time to put the kettle on and settle in to read some more great walks.  Join me whenever you can, here on Jo’s Monday walks.  You’ll always be welcome.

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Tales around the campfire first, with lovely Miriam :

Walhalla Walkabout

Followed by a gentle riverside walk with Alice :

Following the towpath

While Banactee shares a natural bridge, connecting 2 countries :

Pravcicka Brana- Gate to Czech Switzerland

A little fashion, a little cooking, an air show… a typical week with Jackie :

Drinking stories

Nicole loves hiking with her Dad.  Why not join them?

Superior Hiking Trail: Hike to Leveaux Mountain

Mel is into her last day or two of walking in Italy.  There’ve been highlights!

Day 32 Via Francigena, Radicofani to Acquapendente, 25.7km

A link to a beautiful part of the world, about which I know very little.  Please meet Subhasree :

HAMPI- Morning Tea by the Tungabhadra

Shazza’s been jangling a few of my memory chords.  I’d so love a canal cruise!

A stroll along the Crinan Canal, Britain’s most beautiful shortcut

A walk through truly ancient history, with Candy :

The Path of the Megaliths, Erdeven

While Carol’s Canadian exploits take her to beautiful Butchart Gardens :

For the Love of Flowers

Yay!  Denzil’s back, with a new look and some interesting facts about ‘under the radar’ Belgium :

How to spend a day in Diest

And lastly, Cathy, though still doing a grand job on the Camino, takes us to Navajo territory :

A hike in Hovenweep National Monument

I’m off to Liverpool on Wednesday, so next week’s walk could well be there.  Hoping for sunshine, but anything other than rain will do.  A word of warning that next Monday’s walk will be my last for a little while, so if you have a walk you’d like to share please do it this week.  I’ll be in the Algarve from the end of the month.  Meanwhile, have yourself a great week!

113 comments

  1. You have even made gloom look good. Mind you, I don’t have your enthusiasm for walking in any weathers. I’d have hot-footed it back to the car and returned another day, but I’m a wuss! Your photographs convey the gloom of the countryside very well and makes the castle look even more ‘brooding’ and almost sinister. I wouldn’t fancy being there alone somehow. No cake? Hmm. I take it you carry a few biscuits for emergencies.

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    1. The trouble is, we don’t have that many days left, Mari. It was the 3rd of 3 days up there, getting progressively worse, but I doubt I’ll ever get back up that way. The move to the Algarve is imminent. 🙂 🙂 There was actually a rather nice little van/cum shop near the car park and they sold very nice scones. I bought one to take home as Mick needed to get home for medication.

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  4. So atmospheric. This is one we didn’t manage to get too, not enough time, but you have excelled with the photography this week. Love the shots of the landscape and the yellowed grass, the seed-heads, the sheep. And the tower out there in its own. How can you leave all this beauty behind? Makes me think of the castle we walked to in Scotland in the fog. Couldn’t even see the ruin until almost upon it. I don’t think I have posted anything about that one, so maybe I should. Looking similar out of my window today, but needs must and the supermarket is calling…

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    1. Thank you so much 🙂 🙂 I have moments of doubt, but then when I’m out shivering on a walk it all becomes crystal clear. It is beautiful but there are so many lovely places still to see. And I expect I’ll be back. I still need to ‘do’ Cornwall and Scotland. 🙂

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  6. Sounds like quite a few of these walks lately have been with the brolly…nothing stopping you from going out and about 🙂 Sheep and stones…beautiful sights. Do those stones topple over? Have a wonderful week ahead, Jo 🙂 🙂 🙂

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    1. We had one lovely day in Northumberland, then 2 wet ones, Mabel. Fairly normal ratio, I suspect. 🙂 🙂 But when the scenery is that lovely you put up with it (or move to the Algarve 🙂 ) Not sure how well the stones would survive a storm but there are always people to build more. Thanks, hon!

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    1. I’m glad it was our last day, Lisa. It would have been much worse if it was like that the whole time. 🙂 🙂 Thanks a lot! Yes, once he was on the medication it started to improve.

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  12. Pingback: Off to a Wonderful Wedding in Berlin – Travel with Intent

  13. Think you out and out surpassed yourself with this walk, Jo. Never mind the dismal weather – you’ve taken some magic shots – from distant brooding ruins to lobsters pots. And stalwart Mick struggling on behind. To say nothing of tales of head-chopping kings. Bravo.

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  14. Hello. Your castle ruins are very impressive. Piled stones seem to be universal- I have found them in Norway and in Finland. Great photo report which I do love. Happy new week.

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  15. Northumberland is somewhere I hope to go for a break next year. It looks so beautiful on your pictures even in the rain. My sister and her family went whilst we were in Scotland and their time sounded lovely. I can’t wait to visit…though Scotland has also pulled on my heartstrings. We have so many stunning places to see in the UK. Thanks so much for including me in your post. Xx

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    1. I hoped to get to Scotland over the summer and we never made it. There’s just too much lovely world out there. 🙂 🙂 Not to worry- we can keep trying. And you’re very welcome!

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  16. Dunstanburgh was one place I didn’t manage to get to when I was up there a few years ago, it looks fascinating though and definitely one to explore if I ever get up that way again. I did got to Alnmouth in beautiful sunny weather and found it to be a lovely little place, though the cafe I went in for coffee served it in small ‘bowls’ without handles – very strange. Also went to Craster which I found to be very quaint, and Low Newton with its pub set back in a square of cottages just off the beach, which was quite a surprise 🙂

    No walk from me this time as I had a very emotional day yesterday and was in no mood to write one up, and none next week either as hopefully I’ll be away and will have no internet access, so I’ll store them up for later 🙂

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    1. I have friends who hire a cottage at Low Newton most years. They have a collie and it’s great for beach walks. Sorry about your upset yesterday, Eunice. Hope you’re feeling better today. I’ll be back with Algarve walks at some point so we’ll catch up then. 🙂 🙂

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  17. Such a beautiful corner of England, even with a little drizzle it is just gorgeous. Your poor long suffering husband..I do hope he managed to hop on ok to meet up with you eventually? Thanks for another lovely walk:)

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  18. I thoroughly enjoyed that walk, Jo, despite the weather. Though I do have a cup of tea in one hand
    I think the weather has made some of the shots more dramatic than they would have been with sunshine and blue sky, and ether are some lovely yellows and oranges there.
    Another place I have to get to!

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  19. Gorgeous! Loved the look of the countryside Jo, despite the gloomy weather and those castle ruins are mighty impressive. Good thing your hubby had a brolly but, heaven forbid, NO CAKE!? 🙂 Have a great week. xx

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