Jo’s Monday walk : Vindolanda Roman Fort

Knee deep in history this week, I spent a fascinating day out at Vindolanda, on Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland.  Come and walk with me, in Roman footsteps.  Can you believe, this tiny child’s boot, found here on this site, is from Roman times?

At the edge of the Roman Empire, the Wall was to stretch 73 miles across Britain, from coast to coast.  A formidable undertaking!  The garrison at Vindolanda was the first of a series of bases enabling the Wall to be built, and then defended.  The name means ‘white field’ or ‘white moor’, and I can testify that freezing conditions are often to be found at the border in winter.  On a warm Spring day, the beauty of the surrounds was what struck me first.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.  Let’s build the suspense a little.  What might I find here?

I had, of course, heard all about the Vindolanda Tablets– telling scraps of bygone lives, written in ink on wafer thin slivers of wood, they are the oldest surviving hand written documents in Britain.  But what would they look like, and how did they come to be still intact after almost 2000 years?  This UNESCO World Heritage Site has ongoing live excavations, and it was incredible to watch history being unearthed before my eyes.

Meet Graham, and his merry team, and let him enthrall you with tales of some of the finds from the 14 years he has been helping to excavate this site.  The twinkle in his eyes can’t disguise the passion he has for this very special place.  The stories will give you goosebumps.  It was from Graham that I first heard the explanation as to how well preserved everything was.  The first 4 forts here were made of wood, but over time they were demolished and 5 new stone forts were built over the top.  Each layer of new building sealed the previous levels, creating anaerobic (oxygen-free) conditions, effectively preserving them from decay.  An unbelievable 6000 items have been recovered so far.  As they continue down they hit further pockets of discovery, adding to the already amazing haul.

Throughout the site information boards help you to reconstruct what once stood there.  The Romans were very resourceful, channelling water from nearby streams in stone aqueducts or timber pipes.  They had underfloor heating systems, steam rooms and communal but comfortable toilets.  It was a well-ordered society with a recognised chain of command and luxurious, for the times, quarters for the Governor and his guests.  It is believed that the Emperor Hadrian himself once stayed here.

On the Vindolanda website there is a detailed timeline and enough information to keep you reading for a considerable time.  I can only skim the surface here.  The Romans arrived in the mid AD70s and were here for more than 300 years, building and rebuilding a sequence of forts and, from AD120, Hadrian’s Wall.  When the Romans withdrew from Vindolanda it continued to have a life for a further 400 years, before falling into decay.

It is a spectacular site, built on a hill, and would have been easy to defend.  Follow me down to the reconstructed Temple of the Nymphs, in the valley below.  The Romans worshipped a number of gods, Jupiter, Mars, Mercury and Neptune among them.  The wall paintings inside are based on examples at Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The museum is in a beautiful setting, in what was formerly Chesterfield Cottage.  It was purchased by Vindolanda Trust in 1974 and has been extended and modernised, and includes a very friendly little restaurant.  If you can make it here, I cannot recommend it highly enough.  One of the collections that I found extraordinary was the shoes.  I had no idea that the Romans had so much choice in the range of footwear available to them. (especially if they had plenty of money)  Coloured socks are believed to have been worn with the latticed style, to highlight the pattern.  The soles were studded to prolong wear, children’s shoes being a smaller version of adult footwear.

Whatever attracts or interests you, I’m sure you can find something to marvel at, be it fine bronze armour, worn by the legionaries, oyster forks, a range of keys, painted glass from the Rhineland or the military standard and horse brasses of a cavalry troop.

Goods were made locally by craftsmen but were also trafficked throughout the mighty Roman Empire.  Leather for clothes, shoes and tents for the military was produced at Vindolanda, and woodworking was an essential craft.  A workbench belonging to ‘Atto’ bears his carved name and the punch marks from his tools.  Another compelling recent find is a pair of ancient ‘boxing gloves’, probably used by a soldier during fitness training.

In a darkened corner I finally find what I’ve been looking for.  Described as ‘postcards from the past’, the Vindolanda Tablets inspire awe.  I peer into the illuminated cabinets, trying to decipher the writing from a world 2000 years ago.  Defeated by language, I gaze numbly through the glass.  Many hours have been spent transcribing these events from everyday life, and many more could be spent reading them.

Finally I pull myself away, and head back outdoors.  Clouds have scudded in and I feel the chill that must once have settled on Roman bones.  I linger just long enough to climb one of the wooden forts, hoping to find a degree of shelter from the wind.  Looking down on the remains of a bathhouse, I shiver and then march briskly, back to the car.

I hope you enjoyed this venture back in time with me, and can only urge, if ever you have the chance, that you visit.  The rewards are rich.  Full access details for Vindolanda and the Roman Army Museum (to follow) are on the website.

Another bumper crop of walks to share with you this week.  Many thanks to everyone for their efforts, and for many hours of pleasure.  Join me any time on Jo’s Monday walk.  You’ll be very welcome.  Definitely time to put the kettle on!

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Drake was swift off the mark with a bit of fun this week :

Garden party

Closely followed by Lady Lee, with a garden of her own :

The moon, apple blossom and our garden

And then Lisa took us all the way to Israel :

From Crocodiles to Tarantulas

Always fascinating to see where someone lives.  Let Suzanne be your tour guide, with quiet atmosphere:

Morning walk

And, not to confuse you, a very different Suzanne takes you on a forest walk :

A saunter down GRAND AVENUE

Grab a coffee next, and go look at some books with Janet!

Monday walk…book walk

Then check out life with Jesh :

Between bricks or rocks

And a few thoughts on life from Geoff and friends :

Walking Talking Reminiscing…

My good friend Pit takes you on two, quite different, sculpture walks :

Sioux Falls/SD : A stroll along Sculpture Walk

Galveston 2017 – Impressions #2 (Tree Sculptures)

Wonderful to find yourself alone in one of the world’s most popular cities- a lovely photo walk with Jaspa :

The Calli, Campi and Canali of Cannaregio, Venice

And talking of popular cities, I wish I could join Susan in this one :

Walking Lombard Street in San Francisco

Two Susans this week, and it’s so nice to have this one back :

A Jane’s Walk in Douglaston, Queens

I love a lady with wanderlust, and you can certainly describe Pauline that way :

Reasons to return : Preview…

It’s always pleasant to see a bit more of Belgium with Denzil (and a daughter too!) :

Walking around Lavaux-Sainte-Anne

And what is it about villages with a stream running through?  Join Eunice on a sunny day!

Bank Holiday walk round Barrow Bridge

It’s another sunny morning here in the north east, and I shall be making the most of it.  Have a great week, everybody!

142 comments

  3. Very interesting and you finally got to Hadrian’s Wall!! We didn’t make it to Vindolanda, but visited Housesteads Roman Fort and walked several sections along the wall. It is lovely scenery and the thoughts of walking where Romans once trod… well that applies to much of England I suppose 😀

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      3. Yes. Very nice walk along the wall too. Steel Rigg was my favourite walk, though we didn’t climb up the escarpment. We had a fabulous week up in the northern Pennines, should have stayed a fortnight.

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  6. Loved this one, Jo! I always enjoy archaeological sites, but this one sounds like a real treasure. I can’t believe how well-preserved those shoes and wooden tablets are.

    And thanks for reposting my Jane’s Walk! It looks like I have a lot of lovely walks to catch up on this week.

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  8. I completely agree with you, Jo. Vindolanda is definitely worth a visit and it’s not to be rushed. We took our daughters on our first UK visit in 1999 and it was amazing. I remember seeing those tablets and wondering what the authors would think if they could see how fascinated we were. We spent several hours exploring both there and at Birdoswald. Fantastic!

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    1. I must have been there around that time, Carol. Maybe a year or so earlier and I’m amazed at the improvements to the site and the discoveries since then. And talking to Graham was brilliant xx

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  9. Pingback: Bank holiday walk round Barrow Bridge – Life In The Mouse House

  11. I often forget how utterly amazing the Romans were – their technology, their infrastructure, their culture – those amazing shoes. I think the personal items like shoes are particularly interesting because they are so rare. I think the Romans are a great lesson the modern people because were so sophisticated and controlled their empire for hundreds of years and yet their dominion came to an end (same could be said of the ancient Egyptians I suppose).

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    1. None of it’s for keeps, is it Emma? All on loan. We’re not good at looking after what we have. Fascinating to get so close to the Romans and Graham was a very informative guy x

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  12. Jo, an excellent detailed post of Hadrians Wall. Weren’t you lucky with the weather on your walk. 🙂 We only saw a wee bit of the wall on a quick visit to that part of Hadrians Wall and the weather was not so great. Though the weather has been excellent during our trip up to North Yorkshire last week and the sun is still shining! Thanks for the mention, Jo.

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      3. Afterthought! Come and have a coffee in Hartlepool marina on the way up -or back? Depending on dates of course. I’m in Poland 3-9th and Nottingham 14-17th x

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      4. Great idea Jo, we are travelling up on 28th June. I have never been to that area of the coast (I expect Kim has) so we could choose this route. Might stop over at Premier Inn and see you next day if you are in town!

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      7. I just remembered I’m supposed to be booking Algarve somewhere around then, primarily for our son. Hard to pin him down with arrangements but I’ll keep you posted x

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  16. I found your account of your visit totally fascinating Jo. Those shoes were unexpected I think it is the every day details of how they lived back then that intrigues. Comfortable toilets! Who would’ve thought! Talking to graham would add so much detail too. Thank you for the link. Getting cooler over here now just got back home before the temps in the mountains shot right down to about 3-4 deg over night, but still sunny here and about 12 deg at night 24 during the day. Love this time of the year

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    1. I’m in the garden with intermittent reception, Pauline. Can’t waste this beautiful weather because it’s so changeable. Going to have breakfast and learn a little Polish under the wilting apple tree. So happy with your response to the walk. Thank you xx

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  18. Fascinating place Jo and so well explained. Personally I find ruins and excavations more thrilling than reconstructions. With a few crumbly walls or the outlines of an excavated building I can let my imagination run riot. Same with a dog-eared leather boot or a virtually indecipherable sliver of wood: these are what I find truly stimulating. Thanks for sharing your visit. Also for my walk too.

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    1. I was there years ago on a cold grey day with my son, Denzil. They have accomplished so much since then .and it was fascinating talking to Graham. I’m happy the post turned out well. Thanks a lot for your company x

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    1. Thank you very much! 🙂 🙂 I hoped to do it justice. I was so lucky with the weather, but in the rain I would have spent more time in the museum. Graham was fascinating to talk to and I could have stood there indefinitely.

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