Jo’s Monday walk : Arbeia Roman Fort

Meeting friends for coffee in South Shields, nothing was further from my mind than a Roman Fort.  Remember Crossing the Tyne when I took you inside the National Centre for the Written Word?  It has a nice little cafe with a view (and strawberry and rhubarb cheesecake), and this particular day there were Monsters in the exhibition space.

It’s a good starting point for an amble south of the river and, once outside, my eyes lit up when I read on a signpost ‘Arbeia Roman Fort – 1 mile’.  Now that’s a destination you won’t find every day!  Farewells were bid.  I was on a mission.

The area was once a hive of industry, rich in pubs for slaking a good thirst.  A well placed mural brings it all back to life.

The Metro now runs across the High Street, a straggle of shops, pubs and restaurants with a few allusions to the past.

I almost missed the clue, but a left turn took me in the direction of the river, and a few minutes later I was staring at the reconstruction of the West Gate of a Roman fort.  Slightly incongruous, but impressive, in the midst of a South Shields housing estate.

Arbeia Roman Fort, standing above the entrance to the River Tyne, guarded the main route by sea to Hadrian’s Wall and was thus of great strategic importance to the Romans.  It was a key garrison and military supply base to other forts along the Wall.  It  surprised me to find that this reconstruction, on the exact site of the original fort of AD160, was recreated 30 years ago.

There are numerous information boards around the site and, within the West Gate, models of how the fort once looked and an Armoury.  You can climb to the turrets of the gate to look down upon the ruins, and north to the Tyne and Wallsend. (Segedunum in Roman times)

In addition to the West Gate there is a Commanding Officer’s house, partially rebuilt using some of the original floor and foundations.  It includes a palisade and summer dining room, with lovely frescoes on the walls.  The Barrack Block was built using traditional Roman techniques from the 3rd century.  Soldiers usually lived here, 8 to an apartment.

I was very lucky to get inside.  It was still pre-season, but a school party were paying a visit.  Excavations have been ongoing at the fort since the 1870s, with significant finds enabling us to piece together the life of a Roman soldier.  The website gives details of opening hours and how to get there.   It was a lovely afternoon as I headed down through the park to the mouth of the Tyne.  On the far shore, Tynemouth Priory and, looking south, far along the coast, distant Souter Lighthouse.  The day had not turned out at all as I expected.  Extraordinary, in fact.

I hope you enjoyed accompanying me along the Tyne.  Our heritage is fascinating, isn’t it?

Lots more walks to share this week, so pop the kettle on and have a good read.  Many thanks to all of you for keeping this going.  Join me any time.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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How’s morning where you are?  Come and sit harbourside with me and Drake!

Idyllic maltese mornings

You really wouldn’t want to hurry if you could spend time in Bhutan, like Ann Christine :

Walking Home – Slow Contemplation

My mother always loved lupins and Lisa’s are in a lovely location :

Return to Lupin Hill

Marsha takes some rather odd walks, don’t you think?

What you Should Know about Alligators : Instructions at Gatorland

Kathrin’s post epitomises sunny California.  Spot the ‘hidden’ beach!

Point Lobos State Reserve

Let Dippy-Dotty Girl brighten your day.  I can promise you a smile :

A Day in Lund

Never a dull moment with Jesh, either.  Anyone identify the flowers?

Enjoying The Park

I may be giving away secrets, but I hope Emma won’t mind :

Walking the Gower Coast : Pwll Du and Hunts Bay

You’ll be ready for food after all that walking.  Where else but Jackie’s place?

Luscious Lemons

Save some for the ducks and swans, with Lady Lee :

Swan Lake

Time spent with Pauline and Jack is always interesting.  Check out their sketches :

Time in Tenterfield : Road trip day 3

And day 4 takes us adventuring with boulders :

Into the Mountains : Day 4 of the road trip

When a photographer finds me, I have to reciprocate.  Meet Avirup at Walk of Life :

Photowalk at Territy Bazar – Kolkata

A sad little place?  Take a stroll with Irene :

Never Ending Trail

Now, for something completely different, a walk with my favourite beaver.  And Carol, of course!

Into the Blue

And here’s Carol, all alone (well, not really because Glen will be about too) :

Taking a Break

Still on the beautiful Australian coast, a walk with Karen rounds us off :

La Perouse Headland Walk

No complaints this week.  The amelanchier is blooming beautifully in our garden, and any chance I get, I’m out there.  Wishing you a week full of sunshine and blossom.

141 comments

  3. What an amazing find Jo. I love to see history being restored and it is fascinating to find out details of life back then.and what a lovely blue sky and spring flowers too. Thank you for the 2 links. Hope you’re weather is staying fine

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    1. We’re back to ‘fresh’ weather, Pauline, but I really have so many things I should be doing (including sorting flights to Poland 🙂 ) that I shouldn’t even notice. The garden is looking happy though.

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      2. Just a week, Pauline. If you remember we managed to meet there the year before last, in Lodz. This time I plan to fly into Warsaw and travel from there south to the family. Complicated stuff 🙂

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  4. What a fabulous find. I’ve only spent two hours in South Shields and the whole time I was in a meeting. Clearly I need to come back and explore.

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    1. There is a lot to see, linked to Hadrian’s Wall, Becky. One of these days I’ll get to spend some time up there. Busy with Polish plans and Lisa plans and confused head 🙂 🙂

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    1. As always you ask very pertinent questions and I had to go back to the website to look for answers. 🙂 🙂 As I suspected there is Heritage Lottery funding in there, the Arts Council England and a Museums and Galleries Improvement Fund. 🙂 And private donations. The museum has a great collection. Thanks, darlin!

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      3. No. Babcia Ola Tuesday / Thursday. Me on Friday, but tomorrow I’ll be waiting for them at home until M finishes, so R can go straight to work. They love riding their bikes, and that’s something I’m not prepared to take on. A walking tour today around the old town to see what missed, if it’s not too hot. Yesterday I fronted to see them arrive, and to sort the paperwork so I can pick them up legally.

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      4. Too hot? !!!! Remember I live in the frozen wastes of the north east. Well, perhaps I exaggerate…. Are you starting to feel a part of it all again? It’s wonderful for you. Do enjoy it! 🙂 🙂

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  6. Such an unexpected find Jo – glad you followed your instincts. What an imaginative project – must be so interesting to explore and find out about the Roman history of the area. Looks like you had a sunny day for your walk too! Hope the fine weather is continuing and have a lovely week 🙂

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    1. We’re not so far from Hadrian’s Wall, Rosemay. I’d love to spend a couple of days walking in the area. Another of those things I’m always ‘going to do’. The weather is back to normal, much cooler, but the flowers and blossom have come on a treat with those few lovely days. Beautiful to see 🙂 🙂

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      1. There must be some wonderful walks round the Hadrian’s Wall area Jo. I know the feeling so many things to do and never seems to be enough time to do them all. How gorgeous the blossoms and flowers must look at present – pretty time of the year but hope it warms up a bit for you! 🙂

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      6. You’re up with the lark Jo – I’ll check out the walk later just heading out for an afternoon walk myself. Enjoying a warm burst before it goes chilly tomorrow (by our standards that is though everyone complains we enjoy the wood fire!). Have a good day 🙂

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  9. It is indeed fascinating, Jo. I love history and I am always appreciative of the effort to create an immersive educational experience. I enjoy letting my thoughts imaginatively break free of the confinement of only knowing through history books, and upon visiting a particular place, I wonder what the people of that day experienced. I can get quite caught up in the “wondering.” That’s how we learn best, I think. And I get excited when I’m on the grounds of our Presidios, perhaps very modestly modeled after Roman forts but they only date back a couple of hundred years! I can’t really know firsthand the excitement of the deep and ancient history you “walk on,” except for the fact that in truth, I really do have a very good imagination. 🙂 I’m so glad you share it with me!

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    1. It’s incredible the knowledge we have acquired through DNA, and while I don’t pretend to understand the science I’m always impressed. I feel rather sorry for the Romans in the UK- in a cold country so very far from home- yet they lived in relative luxury. We’ve come so far, and yet not very far at all, have we? We still have the same vanities and frailties. Thanks for your company, Debbie, and I’m glad you enjoyed this. 🙂 🙂

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  11. Fascinating indeed, the old Roman fort and Tyne. Some excellent photographs with bright and vivid colors. Enjoyed your Walk Jo. 🙂

    Thanks for dropping by at Walk of Life.

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  12. Feels great to be on one of your delightful walks again dear Jo. That fort is a beauty, great find! And what an amazing job of the reconstruction. Particularly love the barracks.

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      1. South London. Have visited places along wall like Vindolanda along the wall en route to Scotland and that was magical. Will do similar on another trip.

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  15. I enjoyed the first part of the walk, but I loved the Roman fort. I’ve always been fascinated by history, particularly Greek and Roman, as well as the Romans in Britain. Have you ever read any of Rosemary Sutcliff’s wonderful books on the subject? Although she’s mostly classified as a young adult author, she’s the very best kind, the kind that doesn’t write down to young adults and whose books can be enjoyed by adults. I own quite a few of her books and now will probably have to find the box in the basement where I’ve put them and start re-reading for the ??th time.

    janet

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    1. I recognise the name, Janet, and am sure that I’ve read her in the past but nothing specific comes to mind. I’ll have to look her up. 🙂 🙂 Glad you enjoyed our walk.

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  16. Pingback: A Mystical Destination – AVEBURY – Global Housesitter x2

  17. I always enjoy your walks, Jo, and this one was, as usual, a complete joy. Such a huge span of time and history, and great photos highlighting the Tyne and the old Roman fort, including the lovely crocus down by our busy, walking feet.

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  18. Thanks, Jo, for taking me to that fort, which Mary and I missed when we were up tghere. It would really have been a great addition to our visit of Hadrian’s Wall. Well, maybe there will be another time – who knows.
    Have a great week,
    Pit

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    1. There is so much to see around the Wall, Pit. Difficult to fit everything in. I was saying to Jude that I need to spend a few days up there. You too, hon! Back to cool and windy here, but it’s early days yet. 🙂 🙂

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