Meeting friends for coffee in South Shields, nothing was further from my mind than a Roman Fort. Remember Crossing the Tyne when I took you inside the National Centre for the Written Word? It has a nice little cafe with a view (and strawberry and rhubarb cheesecake), and this particular day there were Monsters in the exhibition space.
It’s a good starting point for an amble south of the river and, once outside, my eyes lit up when I read on a signpost ‘Arbeia Roman Fort – 1 mile’. Now that’s a destination you won’t find every day! Farewells were bid. I was on a mission.
The area was once a hive of industry, rich in pubs for slaking a good thirst. A well placed mural brings it all back to life.
The Metro now runs across the High Street, a straggle of shops, pubs and restaurants with a few allusions to the past.
I almost missed the clue, but a left turn took me in the direction of the river, and a few minutes later I was staring at the reconstruction of the West Gate of a Roman fort. Slightly incongruous, but impressive, in the midst of a South Shields housing estate.
Arbeia Roman Fort, standing above the entrance to the River Tyne, guarded the main route by sea to Hadrian’s Wall and was thus of great strategic importance to the Romans. It was a key garrison and military supply base to other forts along the Wall. It surprised me to find that this reconstruction, on the exact site of the original fort of AD160, was recreated 30 years ago.
There are numerous information boards around the site and, within the West Gate, models of how the fort once looked and an Armoury. You can climb to the turrets of the gate to look down upon the ruins, and north to the Tyne and Wallsend. (Segedunum in Roman times)
In addition to the West Gate there is a Commanding Officer’s house, partially rebuilt using some of the original floor and foundations. It includes a palisade and summer dining room, with lovely frescoes on the walls. The Barrack Block was built using traditional Roman techniques from the 3rd century. Soldiers usually lived here, 8 to an apartment.
I was very lucky to get inside. It was still pre-season, but a school party were paying a visit. Excavations have been ongoing at the fort since the 1870s, with significant finds enabling us to piece together the life of a Roman soldier. The website gives details of opening hours and how to get there. It was a lovely afternoon as I headed down through the park to the mouth of the Tyne. On the far shore, Tynemouth Priory and, looking south, far along the coast, distant Souter Lighthouse. The day had not turned out at all as I expected. Extraordinary, in fact.
I hope you enjoyed accompanying me along the Tyne. Our heritage is fascinating, isn’t it?
Lots more walks to share this week, so pop the kettle on and have a good read. Many thanks to all of you for keeping this going. Join me any time. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.
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How’s morning where you are? Come and sit harbourside with me and Drake!
You really wouldn’t want to hurry if you could spend time in Bhutan, like Ann Christine :
Walking Home – Slow Contemplation
My mother always loved lupins and Lisa’s are in a lovely location :
Marsha takes some rather odd walks, don’t you think?
What you Should Know about Alligators : Instructions at Gatorland
Kathrin’s post epitomises sunny California. Spot the ‘hidden’ beach!
Let Dippy-Dotty Girl brighten your day. I can promise you a smile :
Never a dull moment with Jesh, either. Anyone identify the flowers?
I may be giving away secrets, but I hope Emma won’t mind :
Walking the Gower Coast : Pwll Du and Hunts Bay
You’ll be ready for food after all that walking. Where else but Jackie’s place?
Save some for the ducks and swans, with Lady Lee :
Time spent with Pauline and Jack is always interesting. Check out their sketches :
Time in Tenterfield : Road trip day 3
And day 4 takes us adventuring with boulders :
Into the Mountains : Day 4 of the road trip
When a photographer finds me, I have to reciprocate. Meet Avirup at Walk of Life :
Photowalk at Territy Bazar – Kolkata
A sad little place? Take a stroll with Irene :
Now, for something completely different, a walk with my favourite beaver. And Carol, of course!
And here’s Carol, all alone (well, not really because Glen will be about too) :
Still on the beautiful Australian coast, a walk with Karen rounds us off :
No complaints this week. The amelanchier is blooming beautifully in our garden, and any chance I get, I’m out there. Wishing you a week full of sunshine and blossom.
beautiful photos
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Thanks a lot 🙂 🙂
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RJo – It looks like you walked from busy city right into the countryside, then on to the coast. I can count on your walks to be adventurous. And lovely. Cheers!
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It does have a lot of variety in the area, Susan. I’m often surprised at how much. Thanks, darlin! 🙂 🙂
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You packed a lot into your walk Jo. I love that we’re continuing the tradition of Roman murals to depict local history and it was interesting to see the contrast between the two. Was up in Doncaster visiting family earlier this week but didn’t quite make it to your neck of the woods! How’s the packing going?
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Funny- I’m down in Leeds tomorrow and at YSP. Our paths will cross one day, Suze! It goes in fits and starts. I seem to make a giant leap forward and then 3 back, but there’s no real hurry. We don’t plan to be there till September and I want to make the most of my time here. 🙂 🙂
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It’ll be good to enjoy the summer in the UK – although we may already have had it!
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I know! 😦 😦
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Wonderful walk again. So many details.
– and what an amazing photo in the end. 🙂
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Thanks, Drake 🙂 🙂 It turned out much more interesting than I had expected. Thanks so much for yours- I’ve just seen it. 🙂 Weekend hugs!
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Very nice place to visit, Jo. Love the exquisite murals, so creative! Thanks for taking us along. 🙂
Wishing you lovely day. Xx
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Many thanks, darlin. 🙂 🙂 They were a wonderful surprise to me. And the sun does keep peeping round the clouds. 🙂
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So much beautiful artwork 🙂
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I was amazed to find it there, in a very urban setting, Joshi. 🙂 🙂
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A very enjoyable walk of this place. Beautiful photos, Jo. 🙂
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It wasn’t at all what I intended, Amy, as we’d simply gone to meet friends. A Roman Fort was too good to ignore though. 🙂 🙂 Thanks, darlin!
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Well I’m pleased with myself for reaching your Monday post before Wednesday 🙂 and it’s great as usual, I don’t know how you do it. Isn’t the reconstruction a brilliant idea? I wonder if it’s built to Roman standards and how long it will last. This is nearly as far north as they went wasn’t it? remarkable people those Romans, if a bit greedy and violent!
Humpday tomorrow for me sweetie, hope you’re week is blooming nicely 🙂
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Hello darlin 🙂 🙂 Thanks for making time to brighten my Tuesday. Quite why they should want this chilly damp bit of the world is beyond me, when they had such a lovely home. I think Rome’d do me. 🙂
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Me too honey, not that I’ve been to Rome. It’s cold here, but I resisted putting the heat ! An extra cardy instead, and bed soon. I’m so glad you’re going to see Meg as well, wish it had been while I’m there but never mind, I might catch you next year in Portugal x:-)x
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I hope so 🙂 🙂
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Looks like a fabulously historic walk Jo. Love a bit of history but never been to the North East unfortunately, need to correct that soon. The Tyne and South Shields look worth a visit.
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It’s home for us Jonno. Well give or take 30 miles and not for much longer as we’re moving to the Algarve later this year. It has plenty to keep you occupied, I think.
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The Algarve? Wow that sounds like a big move. Is that a full-time move then? Which part?
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We’ve had a home in Tavira in the Eastern Algarve for 14 years. Time to make the move before we’re too old to do it. 🙂
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Lovely area to live. Are you keeping your place in the UK or will you be cutting all ties?
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It’s on the market. We’ll see what happens 🙂
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Well good luck, let’s hope it sells quickly.
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Herzlichen Dank Jo für diese wunderbare Reise…
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Glad to have your company Ernst. Danke x
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Thanks for taking me along the Tyne Jo 🙂
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Glad to have you aboard, Brian x
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