Jo’s Monday walk : Arbeia Roman Fort

Meeting friends for coffee in South Shields, nothing was further from my mind than a Roman Fort.  Remember Crossing the Tyne when I took you inside the National Centre for the Written Word?  It has a nice little cafe with a view (and strawberry and rhubarb cheesecake), and this particular day there were Monsters in the exhibition space.

It’s a good starting point for an amble south of the river and, once outside, my eyes lit up when I read on a signpost ‘Arbeia Roman Fort – 1 mile’.  Now that’s a destination you won’t find every day!  Farewells were bid.  I was on a mission.

The area was once a hive of industry, rich in pubs for slaking a good thirst.  A well placed mural brings it all back to life.

The Metro now runs across the High Street, a straggle of shops, pubs and restaurants with a few allusions to the past.

I almost missed the clue, but a left turn took me in the direction of the river, and a few minutes later I was staring at the reconstruction of the West Gate of a Roman fort.  Slightly incongruous, but impressive, in the midst of a South Shields housing estate.

Arbeia Roman Fort, standing above the entrance to the River Tyne, guarded the main route by sea to Hadrian’s Wall and was thus of great strategic importance to the Romans.  It was a key garrison and military supply base to other forts along the Wall.  It  surprised me to find that this reconstruction, on the exact site of the original fort of AD160, was recreated 30 years ago.

There are numerous information boards around the site and, within the West Gate, models of how the fort once looked and an Armoury.  You can climb to the turrets of the gate to look down upon the ruins, and north to the Tyne and Wallsend. (Segedunum in Roman times)

In addition to the West Gate there is a Commanding Officer’s house, partially rebuilt using some of the original floor and foundations.  It includes a palisade and summer dining room, with lovely frescoes on the walls.  The Barrack Block was built using traditional Roman techniques from the 3rd century.  Soldiers usually lived here, 8 to an apartment.

I was very lucky to get inside.  It was still pre-season, but a school party were paying a visit.  Excavations have been ongoing at the fort since the 1870s, with significant finds enabling us to piece together the life of a Roman soldier.  The website gives details of opening hours and how to get there.   It was a lovely afternoon as I headed down through the park to the mouth of the Tyne.  On the far shore, Tynemouth Priory and, looking south, far along the coast, distant Souter Lighthouse.  The day had not turned out at all as I expected.  Extraordinary, in fact.

I hope you enjoyed accompanying me along the Tyne.  Our heritage is fascinating, isn’t it?

Lots more walks to share this week, so pop the kettle on and have a good read.  Many thanks to all of you for keeping this going.  Join me any time.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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How’s morning where you are?  Come and sit harbourside with me and Drake!

Idyllic maltese mornings

You really wouldn’t want to hurry if you could spend time in Bhutan, like Ann Christine :

Walking Home – Slow Contemplation

My mother always loved lupins and Lisa’s are in a lovely location :

Return to Lupin Hill

Marsha takes some rather odd walks, don’t you think?

What you Should Know about Alligators : Instructions at Gatorland

Kathrin’s post epitomises sunny California.  Spot the ‘hidden’ beach!

Point Lobos State Reserve

Let Dippy-Dotty Girl brighten your day.  I can promise you a smile :

A Day in Lund

Never a dull moment with Jesh, either.  Anyone identify the flowers?

Enjoying The Park

I may be giving away secrets, but I hope Emma won’t mind :

Walking the Gower Coast : Pwll Du and Hunts Bay

You’ll be ready for food after all that walking.  Where else but Jackie’s place?

Luscious Lemons

Save some for the ducks and swans, with Lady Lee :

Swan Lake

Time spent with Pauline and Jack is always interesting.  Check out their sketches :

Time in Tenterfield : Road trip day 3

And day 4 takes us adventuring with boulders :

Into the Mountains : Day 4 of the road trip

When a photographer finds me, I have to reciprocate.  Meet Avirup at Walk of Life :

Photowalk at Territy Bazar – Kolkata

A sad little place?  Take a stroll with Irene :

Never Ending Trail

Now, for something completely different, a walk with my favourite beaver.  And Carol, of course!

Into the Blue

And here’s Carol, all alone (well, not really because Glen will be about too) :

Taking a Break

Still on the beautiful Australian coast, a walk with Karen rounds us off :

La Perouse Headland Walk

No complaints this week.  The amelanchier is blooming beautifully in our garden, and any chance I get, I’m out there.  Wishing you a week full of sunshine and blossom.

141 comments

  2. Pingback: a morning in English garden – Ladyleemanila

  3. I know very little about this area, Jo, so thanks for the history lesson (and the gorgeous photos). My husband’s parents hailed from Jesmond Dene so I have visited the area but family visits are something different to following one’s own inclination. When we visited we had the car so we toured as widely as possible from the ‘home fort’ as ’twere but never got anywhere near your South Shields place. I did manage Newcastle though!

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    1. There is a ridiculous amount of history between here and the Scottish Borders, Mari. I know I’m not going to fit enough in before we leave. 🙂 🙂 Lovely to have your company.

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  5. Good morning Jo !!!! Excellent post !!!!!!!!!!!

    “Once the travel bug bites there is no known antidote, and I know that I shall be happily infected until the end of my life.” – Michael Palin

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  6. You say the reconstruction has been there for thirty years and you didn’t know? I would have thought you must know every inch of the north-east Jo, through all of your walks. I wonder how many hidden gems there must be all around us. Those Romans got everywhere didn’t they, and were excellent builders of roads and fortresses (or would that be the slaves…) anyway, thanks for a tour around something I had never heard of. And a reminder that although I have been to Hadrian’s Wall (and you should do as there are some lovely walks along it plus great ruins) I did not make it to Viroconium or Uriconium, a Roman city near Shrewsbury once the fourth largest city in Roman Britain, where EH reconstructed a town house.

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    1. I was aware, Jude, but didn’t really know where it was. Astounded to find it on a housing estate so close to Shields centre. I can’t seem to get Mick motivated to do the Wall. We need a couple of days up that way and I seem to be overtaken by events. I’ve wanted to go back to Vindolanda for years. No fun having a stubborn man. 🙂 And no, it was one of the things we couldn’t fit in when we went to Shropshire last year. Why is this little island so darn big?

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      1. True. So many places, so little time, or sun. I wish my OH was more inclined to explore, but he’s happier in his music room. Oh, well, each to their own.

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  8. That is quite the reconstruction of Arbeia Roman Fort, in real life and I see in miniature version? Looked like a wonderful walk as usual, Jo. Have a good week ahead, lovely ❤ 🙂

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    2. Tish have you been to Viroconium near Wroxeter? They have built a reconstruction house there. I only ever viewed the site from the road before the EH did a lot of work on the site.

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  11. Pingback: A walk round Utrecht – The Glasgow Gallivanter

  14. A strange place to have a Roman fort, right next to a modern housing estate, but fascinating nonetheless, and I love the fresco with the birds on it. Thank you for the walk, it was lovely 🙂

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  15. South Shields was a regular Saturday afternoon jaunt when I was a child living in Sunderland. Then it meant fish and chips for high tea. On my last visit (probably about 10 years ago now) it meant curry. The murals must have gone up since then, and i have never heard of the fort which looks wonderfully interesting. I so enjoyed this post – I will miss your NE jaunts when you finally decamp!

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  18. An incredible and fascinating history, Jo and you present it so well! The fort looks almost modern in style and the soldiers lived in realative luxury by the sounds of it. I find the murals particularly delightful! It’s amazing how the modern lives next door to such old historical sites, incongruous indeed but encapsulates alll elements of our lives … past and present. Wishing you a lovely start to the week, 😀❤️

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    1. The signposts along the Tyne point to all kinds of things, Annika, and I was delighted to realise how close I was to the Fort. Had to be done, though my companions weren’t enthusiastic and we parted company. 🙂 🙂 The sun is shining brightly here but it’s cool. Have a good week too!

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      1. Your companions missed out on a great day…I would love to see this in real life and am a succour for any Roman remains etc. Have you been to Fishbourne … amazing!

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  19. Fascinating history. The Fort looks like it is hundreds of years old…very good reconstruction. I would love to do the Hadrian’s Wall walk one day ..Have you done it Jo?

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    1. No, that’s another of my serious omissions, Gilda! Whenever I mention Roman Wall to Mick he groans and finds something else to do. 🙂 🙂 Perhaps because it has usually been freezing cold when we’ve been up that way.

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    1. I have to admit, Margaret, that though I knew of its existence, it wasn’t something that sprang readily to mind. But I was happy to come acrross it. 🙂 🙂 Thanks for reading.

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