Jo’s Monday walk : Interrupted, in Knaresborough

It was Mother’s Day back in the UK, and I was fancying a treat.  Somewhere I hadn’t been in a while definitely appealed, and Knaresborough fit the bill very nicely.  This North Yorkshire market town lies on the River Nidd, and an iconic railway viaduct carries passengers into town, high above the river.  Even on a rather murky English day, it’s a splendid sight.

We parked just off the A59, on the edge of town, and strolled towards the centre.  Almost immediately we become aware of one of the quirkier aspects of Knaresborough, the painted trompe l’oeuil windows that adorn many of the buildings.

Town Windows illustrate characters and events from the town’s long history, and you can download the guide to find them all.  Many of the Georgian buildings were designed with blank windows, to avoid paying window tax.  The town has no shortage of interesting characters, two of them sitting side by side on benches in Market Square.  Sculptures, of course!  Ursula Southeil, a medieval seer, was known as Mother Shipton, and was said to have been born in a cave south of the town.  ‘Blind Jack’, or John Metcalf, lost his sight following smallpox in childhood, but that did not prevent him going on to become an accomplished violin player, and later a pioneering road builder.

I followed my nose into Green Dragon Yard, in search of tearooms, but was immediately distracted by the artwork.  ‘Art in the Mill’ is a contemporary gallery situated in a former flax mill.  The manufacture of linen was a cottage industry in Knaresborough, and flax was combed by hand in the mill, which dates from 1808.

Castle ruins with a mighty history next.  Built in 1100 by a Norman baron, Hugh de Moreville sought refuge there in the 1170s, after assassinating Thomas Becket.  In 1205 King John invested considerable money strengthening the castle, to use as a hunting base for Knaresborough Forest.  It was here that the first Royal Maundy took place, on 5th April, 1210, with the giving of alms to 13 poor men.  Extensions and rebuilding, including the Keep, were completed by the King Edwards.  The castle survived intact until 1648.  It was taken by Parliamentarian troops in 1644, during the Civil War, and was largely destroyed by them, as a Royalist stronghold, by decree of Parliament.  Admission details here.

It’s in a wonderful situation, looking down onto the viaduct and the weir.  Most of the town is at this upper level, steps leading down through gardens to the riverside, far below. Our intention was to follow the river beneath the overhanging cliffs, find the Chapel of Our Lady of the Crag, and then to cross over to the far shore.  As it happened the chapel wasn’t open, but it’s a pleasant wander, with the river meandering below.

There was a house or two that might have suited, though probably not the fortified House in the Rock.

A text message disrupted further progress.  Might we be heading to Leeds, half an hour away, where our son was happy to be included in the Mother’s Day celebrations?  What else do you do when your grown up offspring has time to spend with you?  The other bank of the river would certainly keep for another day.  But first, a scone for sustenance.  Honey Bees at Hannah’s, on Castlegate- simply scrumptious!

And a few more murals.  They’re great, aren’t they?  I hope to get back to Knaresbrough in the Summer, and show you Mother Shipton’s Cave.  For now, we’ll pop the kettle on and settle in for a good read.

Please find a little time to visit these, especially if it’s somebody you don’t know.  Many thanks to all you lovely contributors and patient readers.  Anyone can join in.  Just see my Jo’s Monday walk page for details.

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Drake to start us off again this week, with a hint of North African sunshine :

Glimpse of Tozeur

It takes more than a bit of Scottish weather to put Anabel off a lovely jaunt out!

A walk on Great Cumbrae

Candy shares beautiful images of nature in the north of Portugal.  And there’s cake!

The NIS PR3 walk at Velada

It’s that gal with the long post titles again!  Cheers, Marsha :

Why you don’t want to overlook the Boggy Creek Airboat Ride

How to open a pomegranate!  You never know when you might need this.  Thanks, Jackie!

Let’s do Lunch

And to wash down all that food, Lady Lee has a solution :

Sunday at the Beer Garden

You know what I’d really like to do?  Join Irene in the desert :

Morning Walk

Or I know Elaine would make excellent company, in sunny California :

A flower power walk

I don’t know about where you are, but me and Shazza have seen a lot of this lately :

The Tolkein Trail on a Rainy Day

And I know Eunice has had her share!  Wellies at the ready :

Exploring on the doorstep

Emma combines history and art with the beautiful Welsh coastline (and a bit of sunshine  🙂  ) :

Walking the Gower Coast : Caswell Bay & Brandy Cove

I love it when a plan comes together!  Denzil finds a guardian angel :

GR571 Stage 6: Gouvy to Verleumont

Truly exotic and stunningly beautiful photography- don’t miss Aarti!

A Walking Tour of La Paz

While Pauline finds somewhere that does a little good in the world :

Road Trip Flashback…

And, still in Oz, Carol watches another lovely evening fade :

Down to the Sea

I know there are rather a lot this week, but they’re great reading!  I may have to take my laptop into the garden, if the weather matches up to the forecast.  Hooray!  Make the most of it!

 

171 comments

  2. This town surely has something for everyone! Even boats. I’m impressed (and glad) you’re getting out and about, even in less than ideal weather, Jo. Happy belated Mother’s Day! While I like the castle and the nature photos, my favorites are definitely the murals. Incredible and fascinating!

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  3. I miss these kind of walks with all my heart, Jo. We always ended it with a pint or those heavenly scones. Sigh. I have memories of driving through Knaresborough but your walk says that we missed out in not stopping and exploring it.

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    1. It’s not an obvious place to go because all roads seem to lead to Harrogate or York, but it has a lovely quirkiness all its own. 🙂 🙂 Sorry for delayed reply- you were in Spam. Shock! Horror!

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  7. Wow, this is a cracker darling! Mother Shipton has such an expressive face, I love all the colour and trompe i’oeuil and the viaduct is really impressive. I don’t think I’d last long with those heart attack hills though 🙂 🙂 🙂 xx

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    1. Our neighbours in the Algarve are spending Summer in Knaresborough, Gilly, so I’ll probably pop down and say hello. (they have a grandchild nearby and will be helping with childcare 🙂 ). He has emphysema so will be sticking to the top of town. 🙂

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  8. Jo, this is one of my favorites of all your walks so far. Everything there looks just delightful. I love the murals and windows and I’m so happy you got to spend time with your son and got a delicious scone as well. What a wonderful break!

    janet

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  9. You always have the most lovely walks Jo and I love how you put your posts together with such beautiful galleries of photos taking us along. Can’t wait to see your new discoveries once you move.

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      1. It was just yesterday that I commented on another blog [https://wp.me/ptJ7E-b48] that the Yorkshire Moors and Dales are well worth a trip. My blogging friend Susanne Haun [https://susannehaun.com/] is planning a trip to Scotland, and I recommended the city of York and the Moors and dales to her, for something on her way up north.

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      3. I still regtet that on our way from York to Edinburgh we were too limited in time to reall tour that area. It was quite a spooky day, btw, when we drove through there, with some mist and fog and drizzling rain. The perfect Yorkshire Moors atmosphere.

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  16. Pingback: Swan Lake – Ladyleemanila

    1. It was wonderful, thank you. 🙂 🙂 Yesterday was a little traumatic, when James came to help clear all his ‘stuff’ from 28 years of living, but we survived. 🙂

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  18. I have been to Knaresborough and Mother Shipton’s Cave many, many years ago as a child. Can’t remember anything about it though. Looks to be quite an interesting town and I love the window (and door) murals. The one with the zebra and giraffe made me think that Knaresborough once had (or maybe still has) a zoo. Or am I making that up? You are making me nostalgic for my home county.

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  19. Somewhere very familiar to me Jo as my dad lives just down the road in Harrogate (just off Knaresborough Road!). Always love a stroll round the old streets and the castle setting is very impressive with the view towards the viaduct and over the river. Plenty of tea rooms and little cafes for lunch! A lovely set of photos even if you did get interrupted! 🙂

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    1. It was a good interruption, Rosemay, and I had a very happy day overall. It’s a good few years since I was there and I like the playful quirkiness. 🙂 🙂 I have friends who will be staying there over the Summer so I’ll likely pop back. (they had a home in Harrogate before moving to the Algarve 🙂 ) Thanks, darlin!

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  20. Great pictures despite the gloomy day, Jo, maybe even BECAUSE of the gloomy day! I love that giraffe and zebra mural, but then I’m a big fan of giraffes. All the murals are fun and those castle ruins are so atmospheric. I also LOVE those pictures of the viaduct from on high, and the one with the boats in the foreground. I’m glad James joined you for Mother’s Day. I’m sure that made you very happy. And I’ll have one of those scones please!! 🙂

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      1. Yes, it was fun. We had a birthday dinner Friday night, did the 10k Saturday morning, had lunch, and then I headed home because Sarah had to work Saturday night. It was fun and exhausting. I still don’t know how I’m going to walk 10-12 miles/day carrying 15 lbs! 🙂

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