Jo’s Monday walk : Furnazinhas

This isn’t a walk so much as an amble into the sunny Portuguese countryside, but with the potential for a great deal more.  Furnazinhas is a small village, sometimes used for an overnight stay, at the eastern end of the Via Algarviana.  The whole walk runs from Alcoutim on the River Guadiana, the border with Spain, all the way to Cabo S. Vicente on the west coast.  You can break it down into stages, whilst taking in some of the Algarve’s most picturesque scenery.  Furnazinhas is a tranquil and lovely place to stay.  There’s a sense that time has passed the place right by.

It’s a small village and, arriving by car, we passed swiftly through it, then parked alongside the narrow roadside and walked back in.  It was one of those days that wasn’t going to plan.  I had tried and failed to join an exercise class in Tavira that morning, and plans to join Becky and Robert for lunch had fallen through.  The sun was shining brightly, so I tucked my pet lip away, and we headed for the hills.  My husband was convinced that the village would be a disappointment too, so I was wearing flip flops and intending to go to the beach afterwards.  For once, he was totally wrong.

Some places just speak to you immediately, don’t they?  As we strolled into the village, absorbing the silence, this sleepy little place was already getting under our skin.  Almost our first sighting was the signpost pointing out the PR10.  A stone slabbed lane led off through the village towards the hills beyond.  The realisation dawned that I needed my hiking boots to do this place justice.  Or at the very least, trainers.

We stopped to examine a map, and realised that we could have had two choices.  The PR9 was a circular 7.7km route, with a variety of ups and downs, while PR10 was a linear and flatter 7.8km, and a part of the Via Algarviana.  Unable to sensibly follow either, I determined to explore as much as I could of the village.  An elderly gentleman, seeing our interest, seemed happy to chat.  Before much longer he was leading us across the road, to his father’s former stables.

What a lovely surprise!  First he showed us the house where he and his wife live, when they don’t have guests for the Summer.  Then he unlocked the door of the smaller house opposite.  Steps lead down into a beautiful dining room, with a bedroom sleeping 4 above.  The old stone walls and ceilings of wood and bamboo give the place wonderful character, while spanking new bathrooms wouldn’t be out of place in a glossy magazine.  A small kitchen sits at the rear of the property, with barbecue looking onto an expanse of garden.  It had so much charm, I couldn’t stop smiling.

He explained that he’d worked in Faro until his retirement, but now he liked the peace and quiet of the countryside.  Who could blame him?  He said with a smile that he could always pop back to the city if he needed a bit more ‘life’.  Meanwhile Casa do Lavrador, the conversion of his Dad’s place, seemed to provide him with contentment and a living.

Having walked as far as I could through the village, I crossed over to explore the back streets of the opposite side.  An old lad, on a disability scooter, looked rather incongruous as he performed circuits, nodding at us as he passed.  A couple, deep in conversation on a doorstep, looked up, but scarcely paused to draw breath.  I was starting to feel hungry.  In the garden of a house set back from the street, a couple of gents were busy tucking in.  I could see no sign to indicate a restaurant, but it might well have been.

Like most Portuguese villages, there were signs of abandonment.  The young have to leave home to find work, and not everyone wants to return.  Terraces of crops and trees lined the fields behind the village.  Somebody had been hard at work.

I expect you’ve guessed that I’ll be going back, equipped with water and some proper shoes.  We may even rent the cottage and relish the peaceful life for a few days.  If that’s something you’d like to do, Casa do Lavrador is a Turismo Rural, and the phone number is +351 281 495 748.

The Via Algarviana stretches for 300km across the Algarve.  The website includes details of the trail, places to stay and a very seductive video.

Something to think about for the future?  I hope you’ll join me next time.

Many thanks to all you lovely people who follow me, and especially if you’ve shared a walk.  Please find time to read and share.  You can put the kettle on first, if you like.  I’ll wait.

……………………………………………………………………………………..

Join Drake in the desert?  He always makes such excellent company :

Sand excursion

Or simply gaze at the still, calm water with Irene :

Mirror Reflections

Emma has a good grumble in Mumbles.  Justified, I think :

Walking the Gower Coast; Limeslade and Langland Bays

What has Marsha been up to lately, you might be asking yourself?

Thrill of a Lifetime: How Novice Kayakers Navigate the Mangrove Tunnel of Doom

Feeling intrepid?  Sue leads the way.  Even on holiday, that girl can’t rest!

10 Tips Before Hiking Camelback Mountain, Phoenix

Treat yourself to the sweet scent of rosemary and lavender.  Becky had a wonderful Easter Sunday :

The ‘carpet strollers’ of São Brás de Alportel

A blockbuster of a share next, from Denzil :

The ‘In Bruges’ movie walking tour

No Jude this week, but Victoria does a stirling job on the Cornish coast :

4 Stunning Walks on the North Coast of Cornwall

Let’s finish with a flourish (and an icecream) and go hunting Eastern Water Dragons and penguins, with Karen :

Spit Bridge to Manly Wharf

That’s it for another week.  I think I’ll be back to sharing an English walk next Monday.  My Jo’s Monday walk page will tell you how to join in.  Please do!

131 comments

  1. I did read this on Monday and loved it. I wouldn’t mind staying in that casa. I think I got distracted reading the other walks and must have forgotten to comment. But good to come back for another visit 😎

    Like

    Reply

    1. I thought you must have missed it -sorry to nag! I had a rather nice comment from a couple who are going to be working in the casa. I promise not to write any more or pester you again this week xxx

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

  2. Hi Jo, my husband found your blog and we really enjoyed this text that you’ve shared your experience. You have met Mr João Henriques and his lovely Casa do Lavrador and all the lovely people who still living there. We love that small “Monte” like they usually say and we’ll start helping Mr João with Casa do Lavrador and we are happy for that (we’ll be the youngest couple there with a small baby). I saw that you want to come back and a good opportunity will be on 22nd of April there’s an event there “Feira do Campo das Furnazinhas”. Thank you for sharing and hope to meet you there 🙂

    Like

    Reply

    1. Hello Carolina 🙂 How lovely to hear from you. We were sorry that we did not ask Mr. Henriques for his name. He was very charming. At the moment we are at home in England, where we are selling our home, ready to move to Tavira in the Autumn. I’m not sure exactly when we will be there but sadly we will miss your event this month. If there is a Facebook page or a way we can help promote the Casa we’d be happy to do so. Hope to meet you in the future. 🙂 🙂

      Like

      Reply

  3. What a lovely spot! I just can’t get enough of those white buildings against the blue sky and all that gorgeous tile work. Speaking of a ‘Call To A Place’ I think that Portugal is calling to me

    Like

    Reply
  5. Pingback: A flower power walk | I used to be indecisive...

  6. I have been known to be caught without the proper footwear and suffer greatly afterwards for forging ahead and ruining my feet for a week or more! LOL! We really should pack extra shoes wherever we go, Jo. LOL! What a special encounter with a very friendly and hospitable local. It’s always a bit sad to me that young people are lured away from this fabulous beauty, relative peace and history, yet, who doesn’t understand that they need to go where they can make a living! But there’s loss in that, too. I am so appreciative of the love you have for this region, Jo, and just know how it will be a permanent joy! You may never stop smiling once you’ve made the shift. 🙂

    Like

    Reply

    1. Sounds just like me, Debbie. I’ve done that on numerous occasions. Must be finally getting some sense in my old age. 🙂 🙂 This village looked like it was thriving but I hate to see it when they’re ghost towns, and yet very understandable indeed. Not easy making a living on the land. Hugs, darlin, and thank you!

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

  7. Well, I’m glad that the disappointment at the start of the day turned into a positive experience after all. Good for you two, flip flops or not! When Mark and I start the morning with negative feelings or experiences, it takes a lot to turn that around. I can see why you want to return to Furnazinhas (with hiking boots), Jo. What a charming. sleepy town. I’d love me some walking over there, and a restful couple of nights at that cottage!

    Like

    Reply

    1. I had a wonderful sulk for half hour, Liesbet, but then decided it was stupid to waste a lovely day. And it was such a pretty spot! 🙂 Mick was humouring me when he suggested we go take a look and then go to the beach. He didn’t expect much of it, because I often say ‘why don’t we go and see what’s there?’ We were lucky that day.

      Like

      Reply

  9. From the pictures, it looks like a great place to stay for a restful getaway. Always enjoy reading about your adventures. My heritage is Portuguese so I find there stories especially interesting. 🙂

    Like

    Reply

    1. We drove down to the coast, Draco, and strolled a bit on the boardwalk at Cabanas- much more suited to flipflops! Then I believe we had a snack and watched the boats, with a glass of wine. A very satisfying day, which started badly. 🙂 🙂

      Like

      Reply

  18. Furnazinhas! What a poem of a place. How do you get there from Poland??? Those skies! Those colours! Those sharp shadows! Those white walls! The shape of those roof tiles! And your impeccable eye. Hugs as you continue with your gargantuan pack-up.

    Like

    Reply

    1. It’s a lovely little spot, isn’t it? That day was going to be our second meet up with Becky, but Robert sprained his ankle (chasing goats, no doubt 🙂 ) and I was disconsolate. But this place was wonderfully soothing, and I think we will go back. The rain is bouncing here and it’s set to be a horrible week, so I have no excuse not to get on with the job. 🙂 🙂 Messaged James last night and ‘narrowed down’ the stuff he wants to keep. His loss is the charity shop’s gain 🙂 Love you, darlin. Safe journey to your loved ones if we don’t speak again.

      Like

      Reply

      1. Of course. Clearing out your house also means kid’s stuff you’ve been graciously storing for years. How’s the cleaning up going? What % have you already done, if it’s not too hideous a calculation? I’ve hidden hugs amongst the most recalcitrant stuff!

        Like

      2. 2 bedrooms look great! Just don’t open any wardrobes 🙂 🙂 We’ll get there! The weather’s been hideous so there’s plenty of incentive. Hugs do help, though 🙂

        Like

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.