Jo’s Monday walk : Furnazinhas

This isn’t a walk so much as an amble into the sunny Portuguese countryside, but with the potential for a great deal more.  Furnazinhas is a small village, sometimes used for an overnight stay, at the eastern end of the Via Algarviana.  The whole walk runs from Alcoutim on the River Guadiana, the border with Spain, all the way to Cabo S. Vicente on the west coast.  You can break it down into stages, whilst taking in some of the Algarve’s most picturesque scenery.  Furnazinhas is a tranquil and lovely place to stay.  There’s a sense that time has passed the place right by.

It’s a small village and, arriving by car, we passed swiftly through it, then parked alongside the narrow roadside and walked back in.  It was one of those days that wasn’t going to plan.  I had tried and failed to join an exercise class in Tavira that morning, and plans to join Becky and Robert for lunch had fallen through.  The sun was shining brightly, so I tucked my pet lip away, and we headed for the hills.  My husband was convinced that the village would be a disappointment too, so I was wearing flip flops and intending to go to the beach afterwards.  For once, he was totally wrong.

Some places just speak to you immediately, don’t they?  As we strolled into the village, absorbing the silence, this sleepy little place was already getting under our skin.  Almost our first sighting was the signpost pointing out the PR10.  A stone slabbed lane led off through the village towards the hills beyond.  The realisation dawned that I needed my hiking boots to do this place justice.  Or at the very least, trainers.

We stopped to examine a map, and realised that we could have had two choices.  The PR9 was a circular 7.7km route, with a variety of ups and downs, while PR10 was a linear and flatter 7.8km, and a part of the Via Algarviana.  Unable to sensibly follow either, I determined to explore as much as I could of the village.  An elderly gentleman, seeing our interest, seemed happy to chat.  Before much longer he was leading us across the road, to his father’s former stables.

What a lovely surprise!  First he showed us the house where he and his wife live, when they don’t have guests for the Summer.  Then he unlocked the door of the smaller house opposite.  Steps lead down into a beautiful dining room, with a bedroom sleeping 4 above.  The old stone walls and ceilings of wood and bamboo give the place wonderful character, while spanking new bathrooms wouldn’t be out of place in a glossy magazine.  A small kitchen sits at the rear of the property, with barbecue looking onto an expanse of garden.  It had so much charm, I couldn’t stop smiling.

He explained that he’d worked in Faro until his retirement, but now he liked the peace and quiet of the countryside.  Who could blame him?  He said with a smile that he could always pop back to the city if he needed a bit more ‘life’.  Meanwhile Casa do Lavrador, the conversion of his Dad’s place, seemed to provide him with contentment and a living.

Having walked as far as I could through the village, I crossed over to explore the back streets of the opposite side.  An old lad, on a disability scooter, looked rather incongruous as he performed circuits, nodding at us as he passed.  A couple, deep in conversation on a doorstep, looked up, but scarcely paused to draw breath.  I was starting to feel hungry.  In the garden of a house set back from the street, a couple of gents were busy tucking in.  I could see no sign to indicate a restaurant, but it might well have been.

Like most Portuguese villages, there were signs of abandonment.  The young have to leave home to find work, and not everyone wants to return.  Terraces of crops and trees lined the fields behind the village.  Somebody had been hard at work.

I expect you’ve guessed that I’ll be going back, equipped with water and some proper shoes.  We may even rent the cottage and relish the peaceful life for a few days.  If that’s something you’d like to do, Casa do Lavrador is a Turismo Rural, and the phone number is +351 281 495 748.

The Via Algarviana stretches for 300km across the Algarve.  The website includes details of the trail, places to stay and a very seductive video.

Something to think about for the future?  I hope you’ll join me next time.

Many thanks to all you lovely people who follow me, and especially if you’ve shared a walk.  Please find time to read and share.  You can put the kettle on first, if you like.  I’ll wait.

……………………………………………………………………………………..

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Treat yourself to the sweet scent of rosemary and lavender.  Becky had a wonderful Easter Sunday :

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A blockbuster of a share next, from Denzil :

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No Jude this week, but Victoria does a stirling job on the Cornish coast :

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Let’s finish with a flourish (and an icecream) and go hunting Eastern Water Dragons and penguins, with Karen :

Spit Bridge to Manly Wharf

That’s it for another week.  I think I’ll be back to sharing an English walk next Monday.  My Jo’s Monday walk page will tell you how to join in.  Please do!

131 comments

  1. What a great find, Jo! I really enjoyed myself and my feet aren’t even tired, as I had on proper shoes. 🙂 I love that first shot and the man showing you his house is a wonderful story, the kind that makes you realize once again how much good there is in a world where we only seem to hear bad news.

    janet

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  2. You had me with your first photo darling, I wish my knees were ten years younger. I watched the video, felt quite pleased with myself because i understand the subtitles. it would be fab to walk the Via wouldn’t it? And that’s a lovely holiday home. I’ve just learnt another thing we have in common, a pet lip ! 🙂 xx

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  3. That feeling when a place exceeds and trumps your expectations? It is the best feeling possible. It’s a good thing that you husband kept your expectations low, eh? 😛 Every time I would travel with my husband to where he was working on a project, he would always warn me that it was meh. Then, I would reach the place and find that it was exactly the opposite. My delight would be doubled.
    The video of the walk/hike is truly so alluring. xx

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  4. Oh how I love when you stumble across little gems like this village. Looks like a lovely spot to spend a bit of time, basking in the quiet of the countryside!

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    1. It felt far away from anywhere, Lynn, but in truth it was only 45 minutes inland. 🙂 🙂 So happy to share it with you! (how come you’re not writing blogs any more- have you something more interesting happening? 🙂 )

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      1. I have many posts sitting in draft Jo but that seems to be as far as I have gotten. Lots of challenges this past year, particularly around aging parents & I just can’t seem to get my head in the writing game. Please don’t give up on me, I do hope to be back at it at some point!

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    2. I love having your company, hon, so I won’t do that. I just wondered if there was a problem (or an excitement 🙂 ) involved. Look after yourself. That’s the important thing. 🙂 🙂

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  7. Okay, you’ve got me hooked! If I survive the Camino, this looks like another long walk I’ll have to add to my list! It looks beautiful. Staying in the Casa do Lavrador seems very enticing. Too bad you didn’t have some walking shoes with you! 🙂

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    1. Story of my life with the shoes, Cathy. 🙂 🙂 To be honest with you, I’m much more likely to do this walk because it’s on the doorstep. We have already done some bits of it, and we could probably do it a bit at a time, traveling from ‘home’. Not so exciting, I know 🙂

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      1. Yes, you could certainly do this in bits and pieces and not have to carry a backpack, which would make it much more easygoing and enjoyable. I love it though. It does sound mightily appealing!

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  9. The first thing to make me groan with envy (yes, that is possible) were your impossibly blue skies. I’m looking out day by day on grey, overcast skies, often through a mist of rain, the sort that makes one terribly wet. Yet a few sentences into your walk and your picture words had cheered me up immensely and I knew I’d see the sun soon – even if I have to leave the country to find it! Thanks for that. What a lovely village you found. There can’t be many more unexplored walks for you to do.

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    1. I will need to range a little further afield, I expect, Mari, but I don’t mind that. 🙂 🙂 It was a fabulous day, and I do know what you mean about those skies. We started in thick fog here this morning, and by the end of the walk it had cleared to miraculous sunshine. We decided to carry on when the walk finished and climb Penshaw Monument. Don’t know if you know it? The schools are still off this week and there were kids bowling eggs and generally frolicking. For a while I remembered what Spring is like. 🙂

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  11. A nice walk and a gorgeous little village, you do find some lovely little places. No doubt you’ll remember your proper shoes next time! 🙂

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      1. Yes I did Jo, as you’ve already read on my blog 🙂 🙂 I’d have swapped weather with you that weekend without a doubt 🙂

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  13. The moral is always keep your boots in the boot! Looks lovely anyway, and going back is something to look forward to, One of my Easter walks pinging your way shortly.

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  15. Super walk in Portugal, and all that sunshine! I am still trying to finish my posts on a recent visit to the Alentejo and may have something which interests you. I will also explain what is delaying me – quite exciting!

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      1. Hi Jo. It was an amazing race I am glad I got up at 4am to watch it. The Australian led the race until 8 laps to go and ended up 4th. Action packed for sure x

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  19. I really enjoyed the video, Via Algarviana would be a delight to walk along. I am glad your day turned out so enjoyable…next time I am sure you will have your walking shoes with you. Casa do Lavrador looks like a charming place to stay for few days😄

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