Jo’s Monday walk : A rainy day in Jerez

Today I’ve got my map out, and am trying to make some sense of my collection of photos of Jerez.  Not always easy when you’re a ‘follow your nose, snap everything that catches your eye’ sort of person.  We were staying very centrally, in the historic quarter, and initially I thought this a poor choice.  Especially as we rounded a corner, to a row of houses propped up with giant sleepers, almost next door to our hotel.  Just how safe, and how scenic, was our ‘close to the cathedral’ accommodation going to be?  But I needn’t have worried.  La Fonda Barranco was warm and welcoming, and perfectly placed.  History was right on the doorstep, even if some of it did need a little shoring up.

As always, it was a case of orientating oneself, something I’m not especially good at.  I’ve usually just about got the hang of a place when it’s time to move on.  But I can tell you that we had a superb Ayuntamiento, and the stunning cathedral at our backs, along with a small army of sherry bodegas.  A myriad of narrow streets encouraged wandering, with seemingly an equal number of churches.

The hues are all beige, citrus lemon and ochre.  In Plaza del Arroyo, just around the corner from our hotel, I was already dumbfounded by the architecture, a crick in my neck as I gazed upwards at the elaborate twists and curves.

You might remember from my previous Jerez post, we arrived on Andalusia Day.  Entry to the museums was free, and we sought shelter from wind and rain in the Flamenco Museum.  Filled with art and music, the arresting courtyard at its heart is a shining example of many that I saw in Jerez.

Back on the glistening streets, it wasn’t long before we had to seek shelter again, this time in a most convenient cake shop.  Naturally!

There are always compensations.  We were caught out in the rain numerous times, resulting in a second visit to that cake shop.  The skylight at the rear of the cafe was leaking copious quantities into strategically placed buckets.  Undaunted, we tackled more cake!

More wandering brought us to the Santiago quarter, well known for its flamenco.  The ravaged umbrella dangling from a dustbin summed the weather up succinctly.  The Clock Museum would have provided an hour’s dalliance, with multiple tick-tocking, but the timed visits were for mornings only.  We’d missed the last performance at 13.15 so, with a wistful look at the grounds, we settled for an atmospheric bodega nearby.  I did stop to wonder who kept the heroic looking warrior supplied with crocosmia.

I could quite easily have entitled this post ‘Lost in Jerez’.  We had a tendency to make a 20 minute walk take an hour, but Jerez is a muddle of fascinating, if sometimes scruffy, streets.  The weather definitely played its part.  A Lonely Planet recommend had us seeking sanctuary in the church of San Miguel, where the huge wooden doors rattled as the wind howled outside.  Built during the 15th and the 18th centuries, its altarpiece, the work of Martinez Montanes, is among the most important works of the Golden Age of Seville.

A drum roll now for a sequence of March Squares, for Becky.  They should take me to the end of her challenge.  The Tinotto de Cielo, with a nod to sherry trifle, was particularly delicious.  The interesting menu at La Cruz Blanco included very tasty shrimp fritters and seafood lasagne too.

I still have the cathedral and the beautiful Alcazar to show you but they’ll keep, for the moment.  It’s time to put the kettle on, so you can settle down to read this week’s shares.

Many thanks to all of you who read and contribute to Jo’s Monday walk  It’s very much appreciated.  You’re welcome to join me any time.

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Almost certainly a step too far for most of you, but there are some beautiful photos here, from Arundhati :

How to turn One of Britain’s Best Walks into an Adventure

You don’t need photos so much as a little imagination, to walk alongside Susan :

Walking the “Sea Glass Festival”

And if you like a good time you can’t do better than to accompany Lady Lee :

Lovely weekend in Dusseldorf

Geoff has chosen to share a last bit of snow (I hope so!)  Keeping mine to myself :

Snow Doubt About It

We had joy, we had fun, we had… snowtime, with Drake :

Season in the sun

Eunice finds sunshine too.  And happy ducks!

A dog walk to Turton Tower

Smiling with Irene!  Reminds me of a Chuck Berry song, but that’s showing my age :

No place to go

Pauline is a lovely lady who likes to chat.  Wouldn’t you love to walk beside her!

Sonder…

And talking of lovely ladies, here’s another of my favourites.  Eloquence and history always mingle with Tish :

The Little Church By The Sea

Jude produces yet another garden from her bottomless archives!  Her flower galleries are exquisite :

Garden Portrait: Hergest Croft

And Carol dazzles with a beautiful display of abundance :

Two Gardens

That’s it for now!  I don’t have an Easter plan at present, and the weather looks uncertain at best.  Hopefully I’ll still be here with a Monday walk.

 

 

 

 

 

128 comments

  1. Pingback: Falling water | Le Drake Noir

    1. It was full of surprises, Sally, and I thoroughly enjoyed being there. Glad you could join me. I saw your latest lovely composition earlier. Sorry I didn’t stop to chat. Rather a lot happening here at the minute 🙂 🙂

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  3. Good thing I packed my umbrella Jo but all that gorgeous architecture was well worth a bit of a damp walk. The photo of the glistening square is my favourite, not to mention a stop at the cake shop. xo

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  8. A beautiful town. I can understand your (deliberate?) preference for wandering and getting lost. BUT I don’t leave finding bakeries and cake shops to chance. I always google for the best bakeries and cake shops before i visit a city/town and have the list handy. 🙂

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    1. That’s brilliant, Pauline, and thank you very much. 🙂 🙂 This is one of these walks that’s not really a ‘walk’, but boy, did we do some walking! 🙂 Never a stone left unturned. It’s just how I am and I’m grateful if people enjoy it with me.

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  10. Pingback: Waterfall walk. – Living in Paradise…

  11. Wonderful, wonderful, I want to go there and not just for the cake, I’m impressed that you went twice. I’m totally bowled over by Our Lady Desconsuelo, she’s magnificent and would definitely encourage me if I was grieving. Are you going to Poland sweetheart?

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    1. That’s a loaded question, Gilly. 🙂 🙂 I needed to email/whatsapp but I know you’re busy. What dates are you in Warsaw and are you traveling with Lindy? As I said to Meg, Poland is more difficult from the Algarve and our house is going on the market after Easter so better to go soon. The question is where, because the family are so spread. Krakow is my normal bolt hole but it’s hard to visit the Belchatow clan from there. And yes, you’d like Jerez- especially if you got sunshine. 🙂

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    1. This one definitely took time, Lisa, but largely because my wanderings were so disorganised. If I can put together an enjoyable post based on a great couple of days away, well, it’s win all round, isn’t it? Many thanks to you and a hug for your appreciation. 🙂 🙂

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  14. I’m a fan of walking in the rain and this post.as you say so many beauties – that startling colour (deep apricot?) of the church wall, the courtyard, and of course the tiles to name a few delights. But the winner for me is the rainy square with the figures and reflections in the wet tiles. I wouldn’t refuse a taste of cake either, although it is only breakfast time. Sending you contented hugs – my friend is here and we had a great night chewing the fat. Today we work. I may be a bit intermittent while she’s here, although I’m working on four posts.

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    1. I was just looking at flights to Poland. You must be very excited 🙂 🙂 Yes, Jerez was a treat, albeit a wet one and I was pleased with that photo too. Thanks, darlin. Enjoy your company!

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  15. Pingback: Beside the Grand Western – Lucid Gypsy

  17. Your cake-scoffing ways are appreciated by one who deals just so with any situation. Jerez is worthy of the crick in your neck. I can see snatches of a few places in its beautiful squares and courtyards. I would cling to one of those ornamental lamp posts in my firm refusal to leave Jerez.
    And thank you for including the Malham post in your Monday Walks. I am chuffed. xx

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  18. Although I’m a bit like a cat (don’t like getting wet), I can see how the wind and rain would add even more atmosphere to this lovely town. What a fantastic walk! So glad I got to come along with you.

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  19. What a colorful place Jerez is, despite the rain, Jo. I love the courtyard of the Flamenco Museum with those globe lanterns as well as the flamenco posters. The sculptures, the tiles, the pebbled walkways – all are so characterful. I know you had a fantastic time there!

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