Jo’s Monday walk : Luz de Tavira to Fuseta

I’m often asked if it’s possible to enjoy the Algarve and its natural beauty without the use of a car.  My walk today gives you one example of how to do just that.  In much of the Eastern Algarve the railway tracks run quite close to the shoreline.  As well as a hands free ride through pleasant countryside and that age old delight of peering into passing gardens, you can hop off the train and pursue a gentle walk.  After my brief absence, I’m taking it slowly.

The place I’ve chosen to start is Fuseta, a very laidback town 10km east of  Olhão, with an active fishing fleet and a natural harbour.  You can easily while away an hour or two here and I’ll give you some thoughts on how later, but first let’s catch that train.  There are two railway stations in Fuseta, though I’ve only just discovered tiny Fuseta ‘A’.  It’s at the top of a hill, behind the restaurants at the western edge of town.  If this doesn’t appeal, Fuseta-Moncarapacho, the main station at the eastern end of town, will serve you just as well for the purposes of this walk.

Fuseta ‘A’ station
A relic from the past
The station at Luz de Tavira

It’s only a couple of stops from Fuseta to Luz de Tavira, a sleepy little spot if ever there was one.  Dismounting from the train you cross directly over the railway tracks.  A word of warning- there is no official gated crossing, but it’s a very flat area and you can see far along the track in both directions, so please do look both ways.  Safely over, turn right at the first corner and follow a leafy lane, passing a couple of country homes.  Prickly pear and almond blossom will vie for your attention in this early stage of the year.

Bear left and soon a glimmer of water will appear on the horizon.  You are joining a stretch of the Ecovia Litoral, a cycle track which threads its way along the Algarve coastline, but which in many places makes for relaxed and enjoyable walking.

Often times the boats are marooned on these tidal mud flats, beautiful in their ugliness.  If you are lucky the tide might be in.  In any case, the sea will glitter in the distance.  The ruins of a defence tower, Torre d’Aires, are largely ignored, lost in the pellucid landscape.

Along this shoreline, an elevated bungalow with a lovely tumble of garden calls to me, though my more pragmatic other half reminds me that mosquitos will be a severe nuisance in summer.  This is the heart of the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve, and a winter haven for migrating birds.

Just past the midway point to Fuseta you will find a cafe, O Conquistador.  Virtuously I did not sample them (I was to have a substantial lunch at the end of my walk) but the cakes did look extremely appealing.  Following an arrow the path now crosses through the salt marshes, with Fuseta and a towering mound of salt on the horizon and butter yellow oxalis rippling at your feet.

I am delighted to observe, busily guzzling in the briney water, a large flock of flamingos.  Their overhead flight makes a lovely ending to my walk.

And no, I didn’t manage to capture them, unless you wish to see a very blurred tail feather or three.  But I can share that I ate at Crispins, almost impossible to miss as you walk back into town.  The quayside makes a pleasant after dinner stroll, leading as it does to an expanse of river beach.  Grab a bench and gaze out to sea, or watch the locals playing boules behind the green.  In warm weather you can ferry across to Armona and an endless expanse of beach.  Make sure to carry water with you as you are unlikely to find it at this end of the island.

Feeling like something a tiny bit more strenuous?  You can climb up through the narrow streets, for a closer look at Igreja Matriz, the Mother Church.  Notice the red lighthouse in the bell tower.  Legend has it that many years ago, during a mighty storm, the women of Fuseta lit an enormous bonfire in the churchyard, the highest point of the village, to guide their fishermen husbands home.  The men were guided safely back by the distant light and the image of Our Lady of Carmel, on June 16th, an event still celebrated every year.

It has its gritty areas but Fuseta is quite an interesting town.  This video gives a fairly realistic view of it.

I hope you enjoyed my walk.  I do try to include the details you would need if you found yourself in the area, but I can highly recommend Becky’s blog as a walking resource.  Based at  Olhão, she covers much the same territory as I do, with the very useful addition of an interactive map.

Sorry that I’m overdue in sharing some of these walks, but I do like to step back from the blog sometimes, especially here in the Algarve.  I don’t stop walking but I do just relax into glorious scenery and good companionship.  Many thanks to you all for your patience and support.

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Did you know that Drake is a steadfast Liverpool supporter? :

Night in anticipation

You need plenty of fuel in weather like this, but Jackie never has a problem :

Bundling up

No place like home, for Kathrin :

Monheim am Rhein : A walk through my home town

Lisa gives us a history lesson and some beautiful views (and warm sunshine!) :

Holidays in Haifa

While Lady Lee lives the high life!

Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Miriam shares a charming place and a snippet of Australian history :

Old Chiltern Town

Marsha has a tendency to cheat a bit, but look out for those Monarch butterflies :

Plan your Travel Itinerary to include the California Central Coast

Nobody does a garden justice quite so well as Jude.  As a bonus, two gems, one old, one new :

Garden Portrait: Scotney Castle

Garden Portrait: Polesden Lacey

Yikes!  It was snowing at home when I received this from Elaine :

A wintery walk beside Loch Achray

And Irene’s post looked even colder!  Go and say  ‘hi’ and warm her up :

To the Top of a Dune

If that’s not cold enough for you, Hiking Maine is sharing some stunning ice formations :

An amazing Winter Hike on the Cathance River Trail in Topsham

Finishing here in the Algarve, Becky shares one of her passions :

The Olhanese architectural promenade

I hope to share another walk with you next Monday but I’m not making a full return to blogging just yet.  Take care of yourselves, and enjoy your walking, whenever and wherever you can.

 

 

 

147 comments

    1. It’s great, Liesbet. 🙂 🙂 We had a bit of a stroll this afternoon, sat and watched the boats for a while (with a small glass 🙂 ) then I put chicken in the slow cooker and sat up on the roof to watch sun going down. More vigorous walking planned tomorrow.

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  3. Pingback: Monday walk…winter walk | This, that and the other thing

  4. That was a lovely walk, Jo, although my husband would prefer the bike trail and be cranking out the miles on his bike. I’ll walk, taking time to enjoy those beautiful tiles and blue doors at the train station (and the tiles and flowers right after that.) I might even indulge in a cake. Would that make it a cake walk? 🙂 Bundle up for my walk this morning and then treat yourself to a hot chocolate or something warm after you’re done.

    https://sustainabilitea.wordpress.com/2018/02/12/monday-walk-winter-walk/

    janet

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      1. It will be a win-win: he gets exercise and you get something from the bakery. Although he probably won’t ride long/far enough to burn off that treat, but such is life. Just send him the opposite way sometimes!! 🙂

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  9. I agree with Eunice – that tiled deer is so lovely. I could have it on my door now. A lovely walk with sun and flowers, history and nature – as usual it makes me long for Spring and summery outdoors. Wishing you a great week over there!

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      1. Back at work as from today after recovering from that stupid Aussie flu that’s been doing the rounds. Proper dog walking with the camera has been on hold for several weeks due to the continued mixed and very wet weather – we had snow last night but it’s near enough gone now – but I’m keeping my fingers crossed that as we get further into this month things might change for the better and I can get out there again 🙂

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  11. Lovely wee walk for you, Jo! That train station looks very similar to one we left from inland after housesitting to head back to Lisbon.

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      1. Love the tiles and certainly cheer me up 🙂 Yes, all good here in Spain. Doing some rejigging with my photos then it will be time for another walk with Fudge 🙂 How’s life in Portugal going?

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  12. Wonderful to see you enjoying sleepy and quiet towns not too far away, and by train too. Sometimes you really just don’t want to try and just want to sit back all the way and back 😀 Always so much water and seaside views, Jo. You live in a good part of the world. Felt like haven’t been walking with you for a long while. Just been so hectic here 😞 But everytime I come and walk it is always a good walk. Have a lovely week, beautiful 😘

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    1. Thanks so much, Mabel. 🙂 🙂 You’re very kind. We’ve done a lot of walking in the 2 weeks we’ve been here. With the groups and on our own. The temperatures are good at this time of year for walking but if we can find a sheltered spot to sit awhile in the sun we’re more than happy. Sorry about your busy life. Hopefully your turn will come one day. 🙂

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  14. Wow Jo – a very big THANK YOU! Thank you so much for the lovely links and also just loving this stroll. We’ve not done it but it is one I want to do as is catching the ferry from Fuseta and then walking along the beach to catch the ferry back from Armona. One of these days I will get organised!

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    1. There’s plenty of time, Becky. At least, we all hope that, don’t we? 🙂 🙂 It’s a bit cool on the ilhas just yet, but we had a glorious day for that walk. And you are very well worth a mention or two, hon. 🙂 We need to get our act together and arrange another meeting. We had a lovely meal in Bica last night. (and we’ve booked Jerez- jumpiing up and down with excitement! 28th Feb so you’ll be in the UK? )

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      1. ooh how exciting – so happy you have booked it. And yes we will be back in the UK then – return the following week, but not sure if we are back before you go.

        I’m thinking it might be a good time to walk the Ilhas whilst it is cool – I’ll need to convince MrB though!!!

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    1. Hi Gilda 🙂 🙂 It was quite cool in the open spaces. With the wind chill maybe only 12/14C, but as you turned into shelter a very pleasant 16 or so. It’s usually about 10 degrees higher than at home and it was an extremely cold snap over there- not much above zero.

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    1. The trains are incredibly cheap, but depends on time of day the numbers. Generally if you catch them travelling east they are quieter than those going west. Rare not to get a seat though even when they are busy. The only downside is that the window design (and graffiti) doesn’t make it that easy to take photographs from the trains!

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      1. PS hee hee Jo, hoping you don’t mind me jumping in with a reply. Just thought I’d follow the example of one of my favourite favourite bloggers who did it yesterday on mine 😉

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      4. Thanks, Becky 🙂 🙂 It cost 2 euros 90cents for 2 singles, a relatively short journey, but darn good value. We caught the 10.15 and there was still plenty of space even with 30 of us walkers.

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