Jo’s Monday walk : Beautiful Belém

Did you know that the name Belém derives from the Portuguese for Bethlehem?  And that makes it a very suitable subject for this time of year, doesn’t it?  Just 6km from the centre of Lisbon, it’s a distance I’d normally regard as walkable but, eager to get there, I squeezed myself onto a reluctant bus.  No tram for me!  My last visit to Lisbon ended in tears when my purse was pickpocketed whilst waiting for the famous no. 15 tram.  This time I was determined to make it to the Jerónimos Monastery.

And when I did, the disappointment of that failed visit was completely swept away.

I’ll bring you back to the incredible beauty of the monastery later this week, but for now I think we should do some walking.

Much too soon to loiter over a pastel de nata!  We need to get going to stay ahead of the tour buses.  I promise you can have one or two later.  It is the festive season, after all!  Not sure what to make of this street art.  Genius or madness?

Rua de Belém, the main street, is a strip of historical buildings dating back to the earthquake of 1755.  This and Ajuda were the areas least affected by the devastation, and many of the survivors who lost their homes were temporarily installed here in tents and shacks.  The King and his ministers set up court nearby and, with the construction of Ajuda National Palace, brought trade to the area.  With the French invasion of 1807 the royal family fled to Rio de Janeiro, and Belém gradually evolved into an industrial zone.  Tanneries, textiles, glass makers and metal stampers were among the factories established.

At the heart of Belém lies the Praça do Império, with gardens and fountain laid out during World War II, and beyond it a magnificent sweep of waterfront, culminating in the iconic Torre de Belém.  As you can see, it’s a popular spot.

The tower was built in 16th century.  Delicate as it looks, it was intended as part of the defence system at the mouth of the Rio Tejo, together with fortresses at Cascais– which we saw last week- and Caparica, south of the river.  A UNESCO World Heritage site, as is the monastery, it has a colourful history.  The two photos below are from a previous visit to Belém in 2005.

From here you can easily stroll along the riverfront as far as Ponte 25 de Abril, with any number of diversions en route.

You might think that not a lot of walking goes on.  It’s definitely an area devoted to fun in the sun, but looking ahead I’m excited!  The last time I was here I did not know that you could climb these structures.  Not only the lighthouse, but Padrão dos Descobrimentos.

The Monument to the Discoveries, as we see it today, was formally opened in 1960 to commemorate the voyages of exploration which departed from here as far back as the 15th century.  Trade was established with countries as far away as India.

You know what comes next, don’t you?  There was almost no queue for the lift that takes you most of the way up.

Did you spot Michael, in the blue t’shirt, sitting patiently waiting below?  He thinks it’s pastel de nata time.  Just another couple of shots!

Patience should be rewarded, I’m sure you’ll agree.  What a place!  I was astounded.  400 seats and choc full of character.  But best of all….

I don’t suppose many of you will feel like a walk on Christmas morning, so may I take this opportunity to wish all my walking friends a peaceful and happy Christmas.  I have enjoyed your company so much and I hope you’ll continue to walk with me in the New Year.

Not many walks to share this week.  Everyone’s busy, but spare a minute or two to say hello?  As always, many thanks to readers and walkers alike.  Details of how to join in are on the Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Let’s start with Tammy’s interesting tour in my part of  the world.  Watch out for the Fisherman!

North Shields Heritage Walk : Fish, Ships and Lighthouses

Jackie with a bit of seasonal spice this week?

Spicing things up

Why the battlefields of the Western Front are important to Woolly :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk46_Courcelette

And an excellent bit of sketching along the way, from Pauline and Jack :

Cliff top walk in the sun

That’s it for now.  Hope you enjoyed it.  Remember to breathe- it comes around every year.  Merry  Christmas!

112 comments

  1. Amazing photos as always, Jo. I enjoyed the trip up the lighthouse as well. Belem seems to be another town that offers the tourist an incredible array of sights. Merry Christmas!!

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    1. It’s a suburb of Lisbon, Liesbet- just one of the cities many pleasures. One of my best days this year! And I guess there’ve been a few. 🙂 🙂 A warm and wonderful Christmas to you!

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  2. Belém is wonderful. OH and I spent an entire morning wandering around here, before he had to return to the hotel for the start of his conference. We didn’t go into the monastery so I look forward to seeing that , as there was a long queue and we were too impatient to waste time in a queue. We did go inside the Maritime Museum and enjoyed the explorers’ exhibits. We started off with a Pastéis de Belém and coffee, but sat outside the café in the sunshine. Thanks for a lovely walk Jo which took me back to a great holiday.

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    1. You will love the monastery, Jude! It took me 3 visits to Lisbon to get there but it was worth it. 🙂 🙂 Belém is lovely! I’m sure I’d read before that it meant Bethlehem but I’d totally forgotten. I think the Maritime Museum was just closing the last time we were there and this time it was just too sunny and glorious for captivity. The pastelaria is totally amazing inside, and full of history and we were just glad to be there. We came out and hopped the train to Cascais mid afternoon but I could have spent longer. Needs a return visit in a year or 3 🙂

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  3. What a great walk, Jo! Thanks very much. I’m not sure about the street art, but I love everything else. Not sure I’ll be blogging for much longer this week, so I’ll take this opportunity to wish you and yours a most merry and blessed Christmas. And if I wish it to you again, all the better. 🙂

    janet

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    1. Thanks, Janet! I really enjoyed myself with this one. I wrote it on a day that was cold and wet here and I had all these lovely sunny memories to warm me. 🙂 🙂 Very best wishes to you and yours at Christmas!

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  5. Another happy memory of Lisbon, Jo. Thanks for sharing this walk. I don’t remember the Monument to the Discoveries. How could I have missed it? I guess I was too busy trying to squeeze too much in. That street art looks pretty scary. The pastel de nata is so enticing. Wish I had some now. 🙂

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    1. Lisbon has so much to offer, Cathy. This was my 3rd visit and I will still need to go back for the bits I didn’t manage. The legs need a little recovery time first though. 🙂 🙂 Merry Christmas, darlin!

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      1. Lisbon is great! You’re right though, with all those hills, it’s very hard on the legs!

        I’ve only been once, but without Mike, as you know. Since I’m hoping to do the Camino next fall, the plan (I hope!) is for Mike to join me at the end and then go together to Porto, Lisbon and Sintra for our 30th anniversary! I’ll be worn out after all that. 🙂

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      2. With a bit of luck we’ll be in the Algarve by then. Maybe we can arrange to meet. I’d like an overnight in Sintra and we’ve promise ourselves Porto again so one or the other should work. You’ll have to keep me posted. 🙂 🙂

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      3. I would LOVE that, Jo!! It would probably be in late October or early November. I plan to start the Camino in September, maybe around the 5th-10th, something like that. I’ve talked about you so much, I know Mike would love to meet you and Mick. I really do hope that could work out. 🙂

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  7. Fabulous photos Joanne. I’ve never climbed either the Tower of Belem nor the Discoveries monument. I find the mural great, it was done by the Portuguese artist Bordalo II who uses scrap metals and other rubbish to build his animal sculptures to draw attention to our consumer society and it’s effects on the planet.

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  8. A breathtakingly beautiful place Jo I LOVED exploring it with you. I Found the street art really good, a genius I’d say, very in your face. What a delicious looking treat to finish with. Enjoy your Christmas festivities and best wishes and smooth sailings to your new home in 2018. A big hug and looking forward to all the walks next year.

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  9. What a lovely walk! The Monastery looks incredible, and is that a decorated post box I can see? You obviously aren’t scared of heights to have taken those fabulous shots! Wishing you a very Happy Christmas.

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  11. It looked like such a beautiful walk, and glad it was a much happier one this time round. Torre de Belém certainly looks like it has stood the test of time. Love your shots of it from different angles. Definitely looking forward to walking with you in the New Year, Jo. What a year it’s been and you’ve been on so many walks. Take care 🙂

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    1. Thank you very much, sweetheart. 🙂 🙂 It’s crisp and bright here this morning and I’m just off to explore a bit more of our coast. Sending hugs for Christmas and thanks for your company. 🙂 🙂

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    1. This trip was 3rd time lucky, Ann. The whole world knows to beware of pickpockets in cities so I should have been more cautious. I didn’t even know it had happened till the police stopped my tram. They had observed the whole thing. 🙂 🙂 Life in all it’s diversity. Merry Christmas, hon!

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  13. A fantastic tour, Jo – thanks. We have ‘done’ Lisbon on an all too brief cruise ship stopover – wish we had seen the Belém Tower. Cruise ships can be such an unsatisfactory way to see the world which is why we don’t do it anymore. A very Merry Christmas to you and yours, R.

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    1. I would think Lisbon impossible to do on a cruise, Robin. It is so very diverse and very uppy downy 🙂 🙂 This was my 3rd visit- 3rd time lucky for the monastery- and i would go back. But not for a little while. Cities can be overwhelming. Thanks, darlin. Wishing you all the joys of the festive season.

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    1. Thanks so much, Andrew. It’s such a fabulous open space, isn’t it? I still need to go back for a couple of things we missed, but not for a year or two. I would like to overnight in Sintra next time. It gives such a different aspect. 🙂 🙂 Christmas at home with the ‘grandies’?

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  19. I’ll miss walking with you on Christmas Day, but probably understand why I can’t! Enjoy the celebrations. This walk is a great one to go out on. Heights and water and history and tiles and a lighthouse: and then … is it what we call a Portuguese tart? Bebaubled sweaty hugs, as summer – and silly season tourists – arrive in MY paradise.

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    1. Bless you, darlin! Your company is welcome whenever you can get here. I enjoyed writing this and the Cascais walk so much. I guess I’ll make a habit of it 🙂 🙂 Heaps of Christmas love, Meg!

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