The village of Goathland, in North Yorkshire, has any number of attractions, just one of which is the waterfall, Mallyan Spout. At the bottom of a ravine, with a 70 foot drop, in full spate it is a beautiful sight.
The start point of my walk is beside the hotel of the same name, highly rated on Trip Advisor, for those of you who pay attention to such things. I pass through the gate adjoining the coffee shop with scarcely a glance, eager to set eyes on the waterfall. Almost immediately the path starts to drop downwards, and down some more, and then down again. I’m not even thinking about the inevitable climb back up when my eyes alight on a perfect cluster of palest pink, wild orchids.
I listen hard for the telltale chuckle of water as I descend still further. Finally I can hear it and, a few moments later, there it is.
Now I can’t pretend to anybody that this is an easy walk but, in not too damp conditions, it is perfectly possible to negotiate the stepped path down to the waterfall. Turning left at the bottom, you need only follow the beck for a matter of yards to be within sight and sound. It’s up to you how close you want to go. To get a good look, a bit of scrambling over rocks will be needed, but there were families with quite young children making the trip. Watch out for the ‘coin’ trees, shown above, set deep into the rocks.
How can you not love being in this leafy dell? When you have gazed your fill, you have a choice to make. You can retrace your steps to the bottom of the path that led downwards, and then continue to the right, alongside the beck. This will take you on a 3 mile circular walk, via Beck Hole, as detailed in the link at the start. Or you can be a bit more adventurous.
The walk I was following crosses the waterfall and continues along a ‘sometimes difficult’ footpath, and over two footbridges, according to my guidebook. Sound challenging? It only had a medium level of difficulty. I thought that passing the waterfall might prove tricky, but the rocks weren’t too slippy and with the help of a steadying hand I managed it. Balance is not my strong point.
There was a sense that the valley bottom had shifted, leaving behind the pedestal on which the first footbridge rested. The second had a gentle curve, the pedestal still loosely attached. Tree roots and boulders didn’t make for an easy walk, but it was the dampness underfoot that was my undoing. Just beyond the footbridges a sign pointed upwards to Goathland, half a mile away, up a stepped incline. It didn’t seem too bad an idea to me, but my companion was scathing. Half a mile? That’s not a walk!
A further sign, pointing out that erosion had affected the footpath ahead, did nothing to reassure. A deep breath and on we went, slithering a bit in muddy patches and clambering around rocks and endless tree roots. I was grateful for any handhold I could get and clung fiercely to ferns, roots, boulders, anything that would give me purchase. Inevitably it happened. Stepping forward onto ‘firm’ ground, suddenly my foot had slid from beneath me and I dangled over the edge, in a less than comfortable version of the sideways splits.
I hauled myself up, with a little help, and stood there shaking for a minute or two. The way back was just as fraught as the way ahead might be. We looked at each other, recognising the folly of our situation. As I limped forward, I was astounded to hear the sound of voices behind us. Another foolhardy couple had disregarded the warning. How reassuring, their presence. We exchanged a few words together, and then we carried on, leaving them resting beside the water.
The way ahead was no easier, sometimes promising to climb back out of the valley, only to drop you back down to the water’s edge. I decided that the other couple must have turned back as there was no further sight nor sound of them. My legs were growing weary when finally we stepped out of the undergrowth, and onto a narrow road. An old stone bridge spanned the stream and we slumped against it. A few minutes later, who should emerge from the woods but our couple, grinning triumphantly.
I have few photos of that latter part of the walk. I was too busy hanging on, and hoping. We stood chatting companionably to our fellow walkers for quite some time, relief in our laughter. They were from Dorset, on a first visit to Yorkshire, and traveling in a campervan. We discussed good places to visit, and consulted each of our maps before agreeing to take slightly different routes back to Goathland. Theirs appeared longer and we joked that whoever was back first should buy the beers.
Our route climbed gently through a forest of ferns, until at last we crested the hill. Just the faintest hint of sunshine lit the rolling expanse ahead. Still we had to toil upwards, and upwards some more, but it no longer mattered. We were free of the canyon.
Up above the woods it looked a long way down to the valley floor. At the top of the stepped incline we had chosen not to climb, there was a map. If you look closely you will see that there are two paths marked. The one we followed, beside the beck, and an alternative ‘permissive’ path, a little higher up. With hindsight….
Almost back to the village, something a little unusual caught our eye, through a gap in the stone wall. Can you see what they are?
Alpaca! I was prepared for moorland sheep, but this was a bit of a surprise. The sheep were busy munching, and kept themselves to themselves.
Arriving at the long village green, we spotted, far ahead of us, our couple who had taken the ‘longer’ route. No hurry to catch them up. St. Mary’s Church was open, inviting a quick look inside. Simple, but beautiful. The stained glass, beacons of light.
I was wrong, of course. There was a hurry! We arrived at the pub at 2.40pm, only to find that they stopped serving food at 2.30pm. The menu, tantalising, but out of bounds. If you’re thinking that this walk was a disaster, start to finish, well, I might be tempted to agree with you. But that wouldn’t be true. It was taxing, no doubt, but it gave me a perspective that I wouldn’t otherwise have enjoyed.
You know, from the title of this post, that I’ve been here a time or two before. For a look at Goathland itself, and details of the Rail Trail, take a look back at Steam’s up in North Yorkshire. I think I’ve earned a week off now, don’t you?
I’m away to the Algarve on Thursday, so that gives me plenty of time to catch up with everybody before I go. I won’t be posting a walk next Monday, because I don’t have Wifi in Tavira. I suspect it will be too warm to think about walking far. I’ll be back the following week, though, and more than happy to have your company. Details, as always, on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Many thanks to all of you who follow along so loyally, and to my lovely contributors, who make this all possible. And now, enough of me- let’s put the kettle on!
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We start with sunny September memories from Jude. A swathe of beauty, fit for a queen :
Garden Portrait : Glamis Castle Walled Garden
And a walk to improve your photographic skills, with lovely Debbie :
Swirling mists in the Pyrenees, accompany Drake :
What mischief is Jackie up to, back in Toronto?
Lady Lee makes Malta look irresistible again!
More beautiful memories from Becky! She knows all too well that I love this place :
Agness hails originally from Poland, but she likes to keep on the move!
Mapping Melbourne- a Walking Tour around the City Sights
Cheryl conquers her fear of heights for some magnificent views. Braver than me!
And Woolly? He’s lingering with the war graves :
I couldn’t choose a better traveling companion than Gilly. Let her show you her home turf :
And for a jaunty Irish stroll, wouldn’t you just like to be beside Ann Christine?
Let’s finish with another garden. A classic beauty from Cady Luck Leedy :
Jo’s Monday walk : A Visit to Sissinghurst
That’s it for a little while. Enjoy Summer, if you’re here in the UK. I’ll be eating strawberries and trying to keep up with Wimbledon. Take good care, all of you! I’ll try to bring back some cake.



I’ve been sidetracked with other projects, and have soooo missed your walks! This one is gorgeous in photos, but I’m a little bit in the ‘better-you-than-me’ camp 🙂 And also, why is it that wild orchids are so much more lovely than the non-wild? Have safe and happy travels to the Algarve. – Susan
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Other projects are always good, Susan. 🙂 🙂 Lovely to have your company again, and thank you!
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Here’s a walk for you next post. Hope you are enjoying the Algarve (at least I think that’s where your restless feet have taken you 🙂 )
https://onesmallwalk.com/2017/07/07/walking-harmony-headlands/
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Thanks a lot Susan. Yes managed to find a Wifi cafe in the Algarve. Catch up when I’m home xx
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Ahhhh, I can just see you there, relaxing in the sun of a patio cafe. Enjoy 🙂
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So hot! Can just about cope when the wine’s cool xx
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That’s an exciting walk/hike, Jo! 😀😃 I’m glad you’re okay and it sounds invigorating – pity about the lunch! The clouds look as dramatic as the landscape!
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It’s a lovely location, Annika. I love the steam trains but I was just too tired to manage another hill to go and see them. 🙂 🙂 We did get a sandwich elsewhere though.
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I’ve been there once I think – where Heartbeat was filmed? The location on top of the moor is amazing and we had a sandwich in a cafe, sitting in an old train cart which our then young and Thomas the Tank Engine mad son just loved!
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Yes. 🙂 🙂
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thanks for the beautiful walk, Jo 🙂
https://ladyleemanilablog.wordpress.com/2017/07/02/summer-solstice/
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Very welcome, Lady Lee! Thanks for joining me again 🙂 🙂
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What a (slippery) adventure, Jo! Sturdy footwear and moving handrail required. The setting is beautiful – a situation of effort and reward. Not being able to get food after such exercise must have been very disappointing. Enjoy your second home!
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Definitely, Liesbet, though we did manage to grab a sandwich elsewhere. 🙂 🙂 Thanks a lot!
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Thanks for the calm and tranquil images…lovely walk.
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Much calmer than I felt some of the time, Sally. Thanks and happy Monday xx
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You’re very brave, I don’t like worrying about slipping or falling.
Today we are celebrating Canada’s 150th!
http://junkboattravels.blogspot.ca/2017/07/lets-celebrate.html
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Nor me really, Jackie, but I don’t want to become a feeble old lady before I have to. Thanks hon xx
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What absolutely beautiful photos Jo and a fantastic walk. I hope to share one with you this week, actually a few condensed from my last week on the road (while I have some wifi). Hugs from the outback 🙂
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Many thanks Miriam! I hope you’re having an amazing time xx
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What a beautiful walk, Jo. Everything is so lush and green…I’m going back again! 🙂
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Don’t slip off the edge, Jill! X
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Muito bonito…..
Mais que bonito , maravilhoso!!!
….suas fotos são incriveis…
Beijos,
A.
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Mille grazie, Anna xxx
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Such dramatic clouds to enhance the mood! It’s as if you are scouting for the settings of novels.
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Definitely Wuthering Heights territory, Ruth xx
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That was quite some walk, Jo! Very interesting and the pictures are great, as always.
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It was a bit of an effort, Sue, but I made it! Thank you x
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What an eventful walk! The green foliage draws me in and makes me think this walk could be one to recharge the batteries, but I think I would choose the easier trail! Hope you have a wonderful trip, Jo.
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The easier trail would have been a sensible choice, Susan. Thanks a lot xx
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A rather intrepid walk this week Jo – glad you survived intact! Lovely photos even though you were trying to hold onto ferns, trees etc. I have a feeling Goathland was where they made that tv series “Heartbeat” but I may be wrong? Hope you managed to get lunch somewhere too – I don’t do well if I miss meals!! Thanks for sharing another lovely walk and hope you have a great week 🙂
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Yes, Heartbeat country Rosemay. There are lots of choices in the village and I did get a sandwich but no wine. Live and learn xx
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At least you got something to eat Jo but hopefully a nice glass of wine next time! 🙂
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I love those views of the green fields… the grass, the ferns and the trees; it’s like a green paradise 😉
Thanks for sharing, Jo! Have a nice week!!
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Many thanks Eleazar! It’s been a wonderful year for growth. Rain and sunshine works well in this part of the world.
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It so annoys me when pubs just close the kitchen down like that – wouldn’t happen in Portugal I suspect!
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I think you might be right Andrew x
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Me too. How hard would to be for them to make a sandwich?
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Hospitality in UK leaves a lot to be desired!
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Too true!
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We just went elsewhere for a sarnie so they lost the trade. Serves them right, I suppose. (but I didn’t get my wine 😦 )
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Oh, shucks, that’s a shame.
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I enjoyed reading about your walk. Glad you survived it. Lovely pictures.
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Thanks a lot Sherry x
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https://geofflepard.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/20170630_100654.jpg a little stroll through our local trees
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Gushing waterfalls, slippery stones, stained glass windows, and lush green meadows! Such a wonderful recipe for a perfect walk. I loved every capture of yours and your words took me with you. I’d love to do this walk someday. Thanks a bunch for the mention below. Loved your little introduction! I’d have to add, I’m quite confident that you’d be able to do the hike. 🙂
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Thanks a lot! You’re very welcome. Just so long as I have my ‘helper’. 🙂 🙂 Happy Monday!
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