Jo’s Monday walk : the walled city of Lucca

Shall I quote Henry James?  Lucca is a city “overflowing with everything that makes for ease, for plenty, for beauty”.  With a recommendation like that, how could I fail to try to squeeze it into our precious few days in Tuscany?

There was an ulterior motive , of course.  The city lies in a flat plain at the foot of the Apuan Alps, an hour or more’s train ride from our base in Florence.  I would have an opportunity to see a little of the Tuscan landscape, and the other half would get to rest the weary legs after the dizzying heights of Florence .  He would need this in preparation for the 4km walk around the city walls.  Not too far, is it?

No matter that you’ve seen photos, the reality is always a little different.  I knew that the city walls had been turned into a boulevard for that much-loved Italian pastime, passegiata, but still I didn’t comprehend the scale.  I found myself grinning as I strode across the grass towards the nearest bastion, one of eleven positioned around these 16th century walls.

Over a narrow moat, through a tunnel and up some steps, and there I was, looking down on Lucca.  A friendly lion gave me a silly smile, and I began to stroll.  Far in the distance, the snowcapped Alps.  Near at hand, elderly couples enjoying the gentle sunlight, cyclists whizzing by, toddlers tottering on 2 or 3 wheels or pushing dolls prams, and students sauntering off to lectures. All of life, it seemed to me.

Looking down from the walls provides views of the botanic gardens and wonderful snippets of the life of the Lucchesi.  A pedalo comes towards me, a dog perched haughtily in the basket up front.  I’m so busy smiling, I miss the shot!

At intervals I’ve glimpsed the bell tower of the Duomo di San Martino, the cathedral.  Time to descend, beneath nodding magnolia, and seek it out.

Construction of this striking cathedral began in 1063, the great apse and campanile remaining, still, from the original.  The nave and transepts were rebuilt in Gothic style in the 14th century, one of many reconstructions.  Entering, my eyes are immediately drawn to the ceiling.

I first learned the story of Ilaria del Carretto through a blogging friend, Ventisqueras.  Born in Pisa, and loving her native Tuscany with a passion, she impressed me with the magnificence of this tomb.  Wife of Paolo Guinigi, an influential politician, Ilaria died very early in childbirth. Jacopo della Quercia, of Siena, was commissioned to keep her beauty alive.

Leaving the cathedral, I go wandering in search of food and a place to sit awhile.  I’m heading in what I think is the direction of Piazza Antifeatro but before too long I’m lost in the maze of streets.  Lucca has her share of lovely squares and exceptional architecture.  Eventually I settle in Piazza San Michele, the site of a Roman forum, with San Michele in Foro towering over me.

I feel sure that Lucca has much more to offer to offer me, but my companion has had enough. Reluctantly I return to the station, dawdling where I can.  The exterior of Basilica di San Frediano, founded by an Irish bishop in the 6th century, invites.  The square in front of it, idle with newspaper readers and peaceful observers of life, a serious temptation.

I’ve barely scratched the surface of this charming city, whose wealth was founded on silk and lingerie.  I wanted to show you Torre Guinigi and climb to the roof garden, symbol of the rebirth of the city under the Guinigi family.  Instead I must ask you to read the links throughout the post for a much fuller picture of Lucca than I can give you here.  I hope you enjoyed it.

It’s been a busy week for me.  Three days on the Isle of Anglesey and a walk through Farndale’s daffodils seem to have eaten up most of it.  I’m sorry if I’ve fallen behind with my visits but very grateful for your continued support.  I’ll be playing catch up this week because next Sunday I’m off to the Algarve for 2 weeks.  I will continue to welcome walks but won’t be posting while I’m there.  Details as always are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Let’s put the kettle on now, and settle in for a good read!

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So much more than a walk, I really enjoyed Annika’s visit to Framingham.  I simply had to share this one :

‘Perfume of the Mountain Grass’

I love Debs to bits but I needed a big coat, scarf and gloves for this one!

Wintry Central Park

Much warmer in Lady Lee’s homeland, the Philippines :

Batanes Day Trip 1

I read this one with great interest, as I was Anglesey bound.  Thanks, Eunice!

A walk round Parys Mountain

On the beach at Barnes?  Only with Geoff (and Dog!)

Barnes by the Sea #walking#london

So nice to see my part of the world through fresh eyes. Especially such observant ones as Jude’s :

An amble around Durham’s Cathedral

Where’s Woolly this week?  Why Lucerne, of course!

Jo’s-Monday-Walk2017-Wk 11

Jackie is still hanging around Mazatlan, and it’s easy to see why!

Just Another Day…

Ever wanted to volunteer on a kibbutz?  This is a good year.  Do read Lisa’s post!

Pura Nature Reserve

Bringing back such wonderful memories of my time in Paris!  Thanks, Drake :

Home away from home

Miriam is a joy to be with, especially when she’s feeling light-hearted :

Whimsical Walkabout Wednesday

While Carol knows how to appreciate a good hill or two.  I seem to remember that from our meeting :

Up to the Top

Please give a big welcome to Cadyluck Leedy for her wonderfully original introduction to Cairo :

Jo’s Monday Walk : Me, You and Agatha Christie

And that’s it for another week!  Brilliant, aren’t they?  I may be scheduling a walk for next Monday, but it rather depends how the week goes.  I’ll keep you posted.  Meantime, take care of yourselves and enjoy your walking!

161 comments

  2. I’m smitten Jo, Lucca was tentatively on my list time permitting, you’ve bumped it up higher now. I love, love, love these photos and a 4km walk is perfect, I could talk to people couldn’t I? 🙂

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    1. You could, Gilly, and I think you’d like it very much! There was an open market going on just within the walls too and what with that and the book stall… near perfection 🙂 And I never even mentioned cake!

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  4. A beautifully written post by a fickle lover. You’re just as enamoured of Luca as you are of Florence. Which of course means you enable me to share your love. Where are all the people? They appear in your words, but not your photos. Strange. After a year in the city, I notice the lack of people, whereas before I resented their presence! Your photos are wonderful, and the pleasures are so diverse. Hugs from a luminous rainy morning that will probably turn muggy.

    (snippetsandsnaps will go active when WordPress transfers premium – a couple of posts under draft)

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    1. I’m a little in love with Tuscany, Meg 🙂 And I won’t be the first! I felt a little deprived in Lucca. It did deserve more time, which we really didn’t have. And Mick wasn’t happy when I kept getting us lost. He wanted to just get on the train for Pisa, which we did. It’s almost certain that I’ll never go back and I hate wasted opportunity.
      There are people but you have to look close 🙂 🙂 At least one knee in the cafe, a small person crossing the grass and in the first photo lots of idle folk 🙂 🙂 Heading for a cold spell here but there are daffs and tulips everywhere!!! Hugs from a hearth with softly pink and white roses 🙂

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  5. Wow, you saw more sights in Lucca than we did – beautiful images, Jo! Our excuse was resting from having 3 painting shows and workshops in Holland – which was exhausting – we learned – never go on vacation immediately after workshops! But – we still loved our time there, and went to Southern France by car, because I wanted to see the Chagall museum in Nice,
    and we both wanted to see Cinque Terre, at the border or France and Itally – my advise – don’t go there in summer -too hot and too many people (this, of a person who has lived in Los Angeles!).
    Have a great week, Jo!

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    1. Thanks, Jesh 🙂 🙂 May/June was always our preferred time for Italy, though often we got rained on, at least a little. 🙂 I still hanker after Cinque Terre.

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      2. No, sadly not- Cinque Terre we never made! 😦 Venice, Lakes Garda, Maggiore and Como, the Amalfi Coast and long, long ago, Cattolica near Rimini! 🙂

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  10. So beautiful and peaceful, Jo. I could walk through this city for days with you. The photos are amazing as well. And, the marble dog on the death bed shows devotion and love for pets back in the day as well. Glad to see that. You have been very busy! Enjoy the preparation for your next trip down south!

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    1. The Algarve will be very laidback, apart from a few walking expeditions, Liesbet. 🙂 Prep is minimal because my summer clothes are mostly there already. Much blog stuff to fit in though 🙂 🙂 Thanks a lot!

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  15. Pingback: Batanes Trip, Day 2 – Sabtang Tour | Ladyleemanila

    1. It will stay long in my memory too, Sally, though maybe not for all the right reasons. My navigating skills were not good in the time frame that we had, but I did love it. 🙂 🙂

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    1. I absolutely loved Lucca, Cathy, and would have liked to stay longer. I should have pushed the boat out and booked a week, but we made the very best of what we had. 🙂 🙂 Packing soon?

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  20. Another stroll down memory lane. I too was in Lucca for only a day but didn’t manage to see near as much as you. The tomb of Ilaria del Carretto…her beauty cast in stone is remarkable.

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