Jo’s Monday walk : A garden extravaganza

Where do you think we might be for today’s walk?  I can tell you that we have passed by the Pitti Palace and are standing on the threshold of the magnificent Boboli Gardens, in Florence.  For me, this was somewhere I was always going to go, even if it bounced with rain.

Of course, blue skies would be preferable and, on our first full day, after crossing Ponte Vecchio we beelined to the gardens, bathed in luxuriant azure.   Alas, it was a Monday, and the gardens were firmly closed.  Undaunted, we carried on up to Piazzale Michelangelo and the city walls for a feast of views.  Tweaking our plans a little, next day found us back at the palace gardens.  The skies were somewhat leaden, but there was always hope of better.  And there were grottos and sculpture to explore, while we waited for the sun’s appearance.

The gardens were designed for Eleonora di Toledo, wife of Cosimo 1 de Medici, and have been in existence since the 16th century.  Extremely lavish for gardens intended for the sole use of the Medici family, such was Cosimo’s power and prestige in those days. Highlights include an Amphitheatre, staggering in its scale.  Stone was excavated from the hillside for their Pitti Palace home, creating the perfect arena.  Neptune with his trident sits centre stage as you climb the steps. For most of our visit he had the company of a heron, out for a day’s sightseeing.

Isolotto, a pond surrounded by romantic greenery, is crowned by Giambologna’s fountain, ‘Ocean’, on the central island.  For a twist of modern, see the ‘face’ sculpture by Polish Igor Mitoraj.  The gardens reach a crescendo with the Grotta del Buontalenti, or ‘Grotta Grande’.

Sometimes your expectations can be too high.  Or maybe it was those heavy skies, and the quantity of steps.  This bank of the River Arno can certainly be a bit of a workout.  Nor is this the best time of year for gardens.  But, as sometimes happens, there was a surprise in store.  The garden ticket included admission to the Costume Museum.  Curiosity had me pull the door ajar.

And gasp!  That morning I had been at the Uffizi, and thought my eyes had had their fill of beauty.  This was totally unexpected.  The only museum in Italy dedicated entirely to fashion, it occupies several rooms in the Palazzina della Meridiana (the small palace of the sundial).  A private residence of the ruling families of Tuscany until 1946, the ornate ceilings had me spellbound.

The funeral garments of Eleonora di Toledo are dramatically displayed within the collection, but for me the decor outshone the content.  I couldn’t help but wonder at the rest of the Pitti Palace, seeing all this grandeur before me.

Stepping out into sunshine altered my perspective entirely.  It was time to head steadily uphill again, in search of a gate.  Did I tell you this walk would be strenuous?  I’d read that it was possible to slip from the expansive Boboli Gardens into the much more intimate space of Giardino Bardini.

Not quite so simple, but we did find the gate and emerged alongside Forte di Belvedere.  The lower part of the Giardino Bardini belonged to the Mozzi family back in the 13th century, when a wall with mosaic alcoves protected the garden from prevailing winds.  In the 18th century the estate was extended up the hill to the walls of the city and a Baroque staircase was added.  In 1913 art collector Stefano Bardini bought the hillside villa, extending and adding yet more changes.  Renovation began again in 2005 and the gardens are now open to the public.

It felt like a triumph to finally reach Giardino Bardini, perched high above the city.

The lower part of the garden is still in a poor state of repair, but there is a lovely old worldly feel to the place, suspended there in the clouds.  My main regret, not being a few weeks later to see the wisteria walk in all its glory.  I had to content myself with the views down over this lovely city.

The lower entrance brings you out on Via Bardi, close by the river, and your mission is complete.  I limped home, tired but happy.  I suggest that you take it at a slower pace and sit awhile.  There are many places to admire the beauty, including a cafe on the terrace at Giardino Bardini.

Jude, I think you might like this link.  Visit Florence is an excellent website which will give you all the details you need, including ticketing information.  Do note that the Palace and gardens are closed on the first and last Monday of each month.

Thanks, everyone for reading and participating in my walks.  It wouldn’t be the same without you.  Details of how to join in are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Do come along!  Let’s pop the kettle on now and settle in for a good read :

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Becky reminds me of just what I’m missing in the Algarve.  I’ll be back soon!

Exploring the hamlets of the Guadiana

I’ve been bombarded with walls lately!  But in a good way.  Thanks, Jude!

Lincoln Castle : Medieval Wall Walk

A flashback to a beautiful Autumn with Eunice :

An autumn walk round Bolton Abbey

And where would we be without him?  Cheers, Woolly!

Jo’s-Monday-Walk2017-Wk 10-Rhine Falls

Nobody can meander quite like Jackie!

Mazatlan Meanderings

Rosemay has been garden wandering.  I think you’ll find she’s a wonderful companion :

Strolling round the Neuer Garten – Potsdam

Susan has many interesting walks in her home city, New York.  I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one :

A Winter Walk through Riverside Park

And I’m delighted to be joined again by Tobias, where there might be cake!

Strolling

That’s it for another week!  I seem to have tempted the sun out in my part of the world.  See you soon!

 

167 comments

  1. I’m not a big fan of park-like gardens and the associated formality as you probably know by now. It must be the plantsman in me (or woman) that prefers the more secluded and intimate gardens with ‘rooms’ of flowers and shrubs and trees. I do admire your stamina in getting up there and presenting us with delights such as the ‘Face’ (preferable to the older statues) and the views. The smaller garden is more my style and I hope that one day it will be restored. My favourite parts of this walk is not the garden, but the inside of the costume museum and the view of the city, then the pretty photo of the trees and stream in Giardino Bardini and the statue lying on the staircase, and I love the lion in the sunlight and those black clouds. Poor old Mick – I bet he couldn’t walk for the rest of the holiday!

    I’m wandering in your neck of the woods today: https://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2017/03/13/an-amble-around-durhams-cathedral/
    I’m sure you have better photos then me though 🙂

    Enjoy your Monday – I’m off to buy a bed and get a new grill for the car – such an exciting life…

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    1. The Costume Museum was incredible! There’s a Porcelain Museum in the grounds of Boboli too, but we gave that one a miss. Shortage of time and we were tired of climbing upwards!. Which was a joke because we ended up backtracking in search of the ‘gate’. Probably easier to do it from the main entrance on Via Bardi, and the Museum Bardini is down that way too. Artworks, I believe. Loved the slightly forlorn garden though and it will be so fabulous with the wisteria and azaleas in bloom. 🙂 🙂
      Horribly muddy English walk this morning. Ugh! I shall enjoy a Durham stroll 🙂 Took Mick for a cream scone to Crook Hall one day last week.
      Going to Anglesey tomorrow. Bit of a marathon drive for a couple of nights but can’t turn an invitation down. 🙂 See ya!

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      1. Ooh, I have never visited Anglesey though OH lived there briefly when he was nobbut a lad at uni in Bangor. Have a fab time and take some photos! Tish seems to enjoy it on the island.

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  3. Amazing walk, Jo. So much architecture all over, and so many photos. Wonderfully captured. Such delicate historical attire at that fashion museum – really has that another era feel world through your photos 🙂 Also, lovely view from the top. Such a treat. I don’t know how you can walk and see so much. If I tagged along, I’d probably be exhausted by midday 😀

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    1. My husband requested a pair of new knees at the end of that day, Mabel, and I have to admit I knew how he felt. 🙂 🙂 But it was all so beautiful. How could I not? Thanks, hon! Hope your week goes well 🙂

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    2. You’ll need a new pair of legs when you come home, Eunice, but it’s worth the climb for those views. Many thanks for the link. No trying to correct it this week- right? 🙂 🙂

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  6. Amazing, what a wonderful walk in Florence… 🙂
    Everyone should at least one time visit this beautiful city.
    Excellent captured, dear Jo… 🙂

    Been so buzy the last few weeks, so there haven’t been time for taking the time for a walk. But later today there’ll, neede the fresh air… 😀 😀

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    1. That could be my Christmas wish for everyone, Drake- a trip to Florence! It was our Christmas present to each other. We don’t do presents much. A trip is my best present ever 🙂 Thanks, hon- no worries! Join us whenever you can.

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  7. Oh I love these Italian villas/ palazzi!!!
    With the statues, the balustrade, and the magnificent gardens!
    Thanks for sharing and have a nice week! 🙂

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      2. Our friends who lived in Durham now have a pub in Sheffield. They have a daft collie dog and always used to like a cottage holiday in Northumberland. Anglesey is only a couple of hours drive for them so they’re giving it a go, and we’re invited. 🙂

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  12. Wow, that was an extravagant walk indeed Jo.
    YOu’re opening shot was fantastic in its own right and the DIY in the fashion museum is incredible. Maybe they have a handyman who could come and help me!
    I lie the smaller quainter garden too – I like the slightly rustic edge to it and those views …..
    Florence is definitely calling to me!

    And I have a walk this week – mine is snowy and a lot flatter than yours, beauty in a different way :https://travelwithintent.com/2017/03/13/wintry-central-park/

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    1. Beauty in a very different way, Debs! 🙂 Thanks so much for sharing. I really did get a bit carried away with Florence. I think I may be halfway through my photos now 🙂

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  14. Pingback: Wintry Central Park – Travel with Intent

  16. Oh my Jo…those are extensive gardens and can see why the grey skies had the impact they did. Thank goodness for those incredible ceilings…what a glorious palace. And you got both blue and dramatic skies in the end…..fabulous post 😎

    We’re off to Lisboa after lunch, so will be leaving the Algarvian blue for a rather more mixed sky by looks of it. Got so much planned though it won’t matter 😊 thanks for the link x

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  19. Two of my favourite gardens – wonderful! We discovered giardino Bardini by chance (because I love that narrow streed that runs up the hill just in front of it, and I wanted to show it to my wife), and immediately fell in love with it. Thanks for sharing, Jo!

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