Jo’s Monday walk : Ponte Vecchio

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I’m going to be very gentle with you this week.  We’re going to stroll along the banks of the River Arno.  Can there be anybody who thinks of Florence and not immediately of the Ponte Vecchio?  It’s the iconic image, and I couldn’t wait to see it for myself.

A stone bridge has existed here, at the narrowest point of the entire Arno river, since 972.  In that time the bridge has twice been destroyed by flood, in 1177 and 1333.  The current bridge has been in place since 1345 and is a bit of a survivor.  It was the only one of the city’s bridges left standing when the Germans retreated in 1944, having bombed all of the others.  You shouldn’t be too disappointed to find that, up close, it has a slightly ramshackle appearance.  Hitler may have declined to destroy the bridge, but in 1966 nature did her very best to sweep it away.  The floods that year were catastrophic, damaging buildings and destroying artworks.  But the bridge held.

I’m starting my stroll at pretty, arched Ponte Santa Trinita, with it’s four statues. Here Via de Tornabuoni joins Lungoarno at the riverside.

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It’s a peaceful sight on this early Spring morning, but down on the river bank a team of workers are clearing debris.  This is not a river to turn your back on.  Heavy rain the previous day had caused it to rise.

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The deep shadows herald our very special bridge.  In 1593, Ferdinando de Medici commanded that the rather smelly butcher’s shops, used to discharging unwanted produce into the Arno, be replaced by sartorially more elegant jewellers.  And there they remain, to this day.

Above the jewellery shops, on the eastern side of the bridge, runs part of the Vasari Corridor. This amazing secret passageway was built in 1565 for Cosimo de Medici.  Connecting the Palazzo Vecchio with the Pitti Palace, about 1km away on the opposite side of the river, it assured privacy and protection in those times of intrigue.  During WWII the treasures of the Uffizi were stored in this corridor, for preservation.  Art resides there still. You can clearly see the grilled windows, over the shops, in the photo below.

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Crossing over the bridge to Oltrarno, literally the other side of the Arno, continue along the river bank.  It’s hard not to stop to look back.

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Across the river rises the delicate spire of Basilica di Santa Croce.  With just a short detour you could admire it’s magnificent facade.  Recross the river by graceful Ponte alle Grazie.  In the far distance, snow kissed mountains brush the sky.

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Via de Benci will take you directly to Piazza di Santa Croce.  In Savonarolo’s day, this was a place of execution, and violence is still enacted here in the 3rd week of June each year, when calcio storico takes place.  Roughly combining football and rugby, it is not for the faint hearted.  Headbutting, punching and choking are all allowed.

Basilica de Santa Croce is an altogether more peaceful place, where you will find the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli, among others. The cloisters are renowned for their wonderful frescoes by Giotto.

Retrace your steps to the river, or choose to linger in the maze of streets that lead to the Uffizi. There are too many distractions by far.

Me, I’m drawn back to the spectacle of the bridge.  Spanning the river for all those years, it’s beaten gold resisting all the forces that nature can summon.  But powerless against the lovelocks.

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I hope you enjoyed my first venture into Florence by daylight.  Next week’s walk will be far more strenuous.  There are heights to scale!

In my absence the walks continued to tumble in.  Please take some time to read and enjoy them. Many thanks to all of you for your patience, and continued support.  Now, let’s get the kettle on! I’m sure I saw cake somewhere.

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I hope you’ll join me for more of alluring Florence next week.  Details of how to contribute a walk are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  I’d love to have your company.

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First up we have Eunice with a wonderfully unspoiled bit of Wales :

A discovery walk on the Llyn Peninsula

Closely followed by Jude, with more delicious shots of Lincoln and the cathedral :

Lincoln’s Minster Yard

And there’s also a stunner of a garden walk from my Queen of the Gardens :

Garden Portrait : Trebah in Winter (or A Walk to Alice’s Seat)

Woolly’s still travelling.  It’s like that game…’Where’s Woolly?’

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Jackie’s all ready to party, and when better than Carnaval?

Carnaval and more- Mazatlan, Mexico

What do you know about the Israeli countryside?  Why not let Lisa show you around?

Givat Barfilia

Becky had to get the waders out for this walk!  Well, clean socks and a towel, anyway.  Cute pigs, though!

A three river adventure in the Algarvian hills

And environmental changes are a constant concern on the Algarve’s beaches :

The sands of the Ria Formosa are forever changing

Drake brings a lovely soft palette to our world :

Less colourless

While Jaspa has us climbing a volcano!

The Views from Mount Vesuvius

Do join Nicole and her lovely family in the desert!  You have choices :

Hiking Saguaro National Park

Sabino Canyon : A Hike along the Phone Line Trail

I never can resist the Azores!  I’ll get there one day!  Please say hello to Uncover Travel :

Hike up Ponta dos Capelinhos, Faial 

Beautiful and individual images for you from Jesh :

A Morning Walk

Finally, I’m very familiar with the city walls at York, but not with these in Chester, so thank you, Carol!

Wall Walking

Another wonderful selection, you have to agree.  Wishing you all a good week, with lots of healthy walking.

 

155 comments

    1. Oh, Eunice! Nightmare! I know the frustrations of messing up a post. I should possibly delete the original link then? Though it won’t impact on next week.

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  6. Welcome back Jo! Hope you had a lovely trip – certainly looks that way! I have only been to Florence once – years ago as a backpacker and the strongest memory I have is of the Ponte Vecchio! Your photos are gorgeous – look forward to reading more about your trip! Have a lovely week 🙂

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    1. The legs are tired just thinking about it, Suze! 🙂 🙂 Up to San Miniato (but missed the Gregorian chant 😦 ), Fort de Belvedere and several times round the gardens. A city so worth waiting all this time to see! Thanks, hon.

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    1. I’m back in my armchair, Julie, but so very delicious while it lasted. 🙂 🙂 I couldn’t give proper thought to your post last night, against a background of noise and news. 😦 I’ll stop by again when it’s peaceful.

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  14. Wow, you have been working fast …. stunning images … and what a fantastic weather you had. My favourite image … is the one with the lamp foot and the bridge in the background (the last).The image of the jewellery shop is great too. Your little camera and you are such a great team. You got the morning light too. No good taking photo in the middle of the day, the light is too strong. Fantastic beautiful post, Jo!!! Have to make my dream come true next year.

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  16. Jol, this is delightful and brings so many wonderful memories of my trip to Florence so many years ago. You fill in so many historical gaps…fascinating. Ponte Vechio was a dream which became a reality and I spent ages visiting the jewellery shops there before choosing a gold fan brooch. I too couldn’t help but keep returning to the bridge, just magical.

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    1. The Wiki link up at the top of the post gives some interesting information, Annika, and my Lonely Planet on Florence and Tuscany is a walking encyclopedia 🙂 Many thanks for your appreciation!

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  17. I want that cake, will there be any left for me? It sound like Jude’s going as well, you’ve started a trend 🙂
    It looks beautiful, just as promised and i can’t wait. I’m loving every photo you post and I’ll have questions a bit nearer the time, hope that’s okay?
    Next please x:-)x

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    1. Heaps of cake, sweetheart! You might have to fight Mick for the chocolate ones though 🙂 🙂 Yes- Jude’s planning April 2018! There’s organisation! 🙂 Yes, of course, Gilly! I can’t see how you can fail to love it.

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