If there’s anything that really annoys me it’s leaving home in clear blue skies to drive to the Yorkshire Dales and encounter grey, dampness. But if you’re in search of a waterfall then you can’t really begrudge a little rain. And to visit Hardraw Force you have to pass through a pub, so you might say there are compensations.
I don’t know the village of Hawes at all but it is surrounded by magnificent, sweeping countryside, though visibility was poor on this particular day. 850 feet above sea level, it claims to be England’s highest, and has been home to a market since 1307. Go on a Tuesday if you’re a market fan. The name Hawes means ‘a pass between mountains’, in this case endearingly-named Buttertubs and Fleet Moss.
I’m heading for Hardraw but, on Town Head, a sign for Gayle’s Mill strikes a chord with me. In 2004 it was a finalist on the BBC TV ‘Restoration’ programme. It was but a short diversion to take a look.
Unfortunately this was as close as I could get. Gayle Mill is a working saw mill, and can only be visited by guided tour. Even the craft shop was closed. The Wensleydale Creamery Visitor Centre, a highly popular venue, is nearby and I gave it a wistful look. I do love a good bit of cheese.
Water flows through the village and is harnessed by the mill, which dates from 1784. In the 1900s it pioneered electricity generation and brought light to the valley. Just then the sky was darkening rapidly and it seemed like a good time to move on.
You could retrace your steps down Gayle Lane, but a pretty little footpath offers an alternative route back to Town Foot. And sheep!
Hardraw Force is clearly signed from the crossroads, so it was best foot forwards into a chilly breeze. I told myself it was holding off the rain.
There’s often a wind off the water, isn’t there? I turned left into the field and trod carefully till I reached the flagstones.
It’s not far till you pass through a gate and the pub is right there, in front of you.
The sign says ‘innkeeper and waterfall provider’. That’s quite a claim, isn’t it? At £2.50 a person, is it a little mercenary? Let’s see if it delivers.
One of the best sounds for me is rushing water. Rounding the corner from the Green Dragon Inn, I can already hear the tumult of the falls. England’s highest single drop waterfall sits in a great bowl of limestone, shale and sandstone.
Incredible to think that the process that produced this landscape began some 340 million years ago. Alternating layers were laid down in the warm seas of those times, and through the rise and fall of the land and some glacial activity the Karst scenery developed. At the back of the waterfall it’s possible to see the individual layers.
Did you wave back? I did! And then I crossed over the bridge and followed the path back along the opposite bank. It was really busy in the Green Dragon Inn, so I didn’t linger, though it did look characterful. I was surprised at how many people had ventured out on such a grey day, and can only surmise that this will be a seriously busy place in summer. But the waterfall will be much diminished.
I just about made it back before the rain hit. The waterfall will be thundering for a few days yet.
Hawes lies along the A684 from Leyburn in the Yorkshire Dales. The map on this link will give you a few clues. Time to get the kettle on!

Thanks everybody for kindly accompanying me each week, come hail come shine (but hopefully no snow!). It’s always a pleasure to have you along. I have some more great contributions this week. Please spare a little time to go visit, especially if they’re new to you. Details, as usual, are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. I’d love you to join me with a walk of your own.
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Lady Lee is always a few steps ahead of me! Have you been to Dresden?
Jude has a delightful saunter in search of cake this week :
Sleaford Historic Riverside Walk
I prefer sunshine, but Shazza’s found something interesting even on a cloudy day :
I don’t think I’d do much walking in Amsterdam. I’d hop a boat, like Woolly :
Jo’s-Monday-walk-2017-Amsterdam-wk 3
Jackie and glitz go together, don’t you think?
In pure contrast, I never saw snow look more beautiful! Thanks so much, Drake!
This week we have a Wild Daffodil joining us. Sound like fun? Do go and say hello!
Becky has laid on a lovely sunset for her wander round Olhao, because…
And if you’ve never seen Lisbon before, Paula’s photo is a magnificent place to start :
If you glory in wild and wonderful scenery, you will love this, from Jessica :
And Inese shows us drama in Ireland, rain, shine and rainbow!
That’s it for another week. It’s been a grey one here but I’m sure Spring is on its way. Enjoy your life, won’t you, whatever the weather?

Not very often I get a twinge of nostalgia but these photos managed it! Gorgeous pix Jo. They so evoke the beautiful scenery, lovely buildings and capture that grey overcast atmosphere so well.
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Thanks Kate! The atmosphere is tangible isn’t it? Sunny today and we’re off to Fountains! X
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Jo, you can’t capture a more quintessential Yorkshire than this post! Just beautiful and a treat to read and absorb the views and buildings. Yep, I waved back, did you see?😀😀
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Yes- I was waving manically! 🙂 🙂 Almost fell in! Thanks, Annika.
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Ooops! Forgot to say how much I enjoyed your photos, especially the first one.
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Thank you! 🙂
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A waterfall well worth seeing, Jo. Your weather doesn’t sound very tempting at all, but I suppose if one lives in England, there’s no choice but to go walking in all weathers. You’re a hardy lot over there. I think I’ve become spoilt, living in South Africa and Florida. 🙂
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But you did tackle the frozen wastes in your well-padded suit, Ad 🙂 🙂
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What a fantastic setting with magnificent landscapes… Your photos did it great justice. Kudos! 🙂
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In Summer the village gets too busy so you just have to make the best of the weather. Many thanks for your company, Eliz 🙂 🙂
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I went to this waterfall last year with my loved ones, there is something about waterfalls that brings life to bubble within you, thank you for sharing. I heard that the waterfall was for sale with the ice-cream building and pub all in one.
Keep smiling.
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That’s not a deal you’d see in the papers every day! 🙂 Definitely something magnetic about them. Thanks a lot for your company.
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enjoyed this post, Jo and guess what? I also have a waterfall to feature for my February walk this week (a bit larger falls, the American side of the falls…..) anyhow, I liked the wave near the end and when you said “One of the best sounds for me is rushing water.” I agree….
(and my post goes up tomorrow) xxooo
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Thanks, darlin’ 🙂 🙂 So glad you can join me.
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Looks out of the movies, Jo! I’m interested by that market that’s been open since I think 1307 you said..fascinating.
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That is a long way back, Corey, isn’t it? It’s not a very big village so I imagine it gets crowded on market day. Wonderful cheeses! 🙂
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Lovely,fun walk,Jo, I might have stopped for a pint on the way back!
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I had my eye on a late lunch, Noelle, but my other half wanted to get the drive over before the weather set in. It can be fierce up there 🙂
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Lovely countryside Jo, love the stone buildings, so rich in colour and texture.MM🍀
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Just that hint of sunshine brings it all to life, doesn’t it? Thanks for your company, Mick 🙂
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Wonderful walk. I love the scenery and especially I loved waterfall photos.
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We have so many of them, Sartenada, but I never lose the thrill 🙂
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Like you the sound of water appeals to me a great deal. Perhaps for me it’s being landlocked. Glad we avoided any snow on the walk. Always happy to see those lovely sheep.
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A former farm lass, I could just see you striding along here with a collie at your heels, Sue. 🙂 It’s a bit uppy downy for cycling!
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Well I am happy to walk with you and leave the bike at home. 🙂
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Great photos – I felt like I was on the walk with you.
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Wonderful! That’s what I try for 🙂 Thanks!
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How beautiful! I love the stark but lush landscape and the silhouettes of the trees. Cheryl (Cheb)
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The drama of it always thrills me. Thanks for the explanation of your name- I did wonder 🙂 🙂
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Beautiful photos! What an enjoyable walk, Jo. Here is my entry: https://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2017/02/14/elephant-rides/
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What a lovely surprise, Amy! Thank you so much 🙂
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A beautiful walk to start the week Jo even in the mist and rain! Was offline all yesterday (major outage here) but happily back on today. This post takes me back to days gone by – we always went for long drives and walks in the Dales. Have always loved the name “Buttertubs Pass” – I think it’s something to do with the landscape if I remember rightly. Wild and very beautiful countryside! Hope you have a lovely week 🙂
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Thanks, darlin! Happy Valentine’s 🙂 Though it’ll be all over for you.
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Thanks Jo and Happy Valentine’s too! Nearly over – evening here. Monsieur is romantically bringing home Thai takeaway so I don’t have to cook! It’s the thought that counts! Hope you have a lovely day xx
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I just bought my own roses from Aldi and am going for a romantic stroll by the river in Durham, on my own, while Mick is working! 🙂 He got a homemade ‘card’ too because I forgot!
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That sounds lovely to me Jo – spoil yourself! Honestly some of the stuff is so over the top these days – it’s the little things that count! Just off out soon for a walk myself – strangely humid still here though warmer again odd weather we’ve been having for the last few months. Have a lovely rest of the week xx
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Your photos came out really well despite the gray sky. I sensed your pain in regards to the weather, though, especially when you left with blue skies. I have been struggling with misty, cloudy days here as well, messing with my plans to sightsee! More about that later. Do you think the sheep care? I know you saw it already, but feel free to share my last Laguna Beach blog and walk in your collection for next week, Jo. http://www.roamingabout.com/laguna-beach-ca-on-a-shoestring/ Thank you!!
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Never seem to see a sheep admiring the scenery, do you? They’re too busy eating it 🙂 🙂 Yes, of course I’ll include your link.
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What an incredibly beautiful place! And those names I must find something to call Buttertubs. Maybe my car? 🙂
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Do you have a yellow car, Ana? 🙂 🙂
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Well it may not have blue skies, but it has pretty much everything else. Even a pub! Brilliant walk Jo.
Thanks for including my link above.
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Hi Jessica 🙂 Yes, a very quirky and original pub too. Definitely an interesting part of the world. Glad you could come along. 🙂
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