Jo’s Monday walk : Finchale Priory

The ruins of Finchale Priory

The ruins of Finchale Priory

My walk this week, much nearer home, takes me along the banks of the River Wear, four miles from the city of Durham.  I hear that a heatwave is forecast and you might be glad of a little shade.  I was dodging showers on my walk, so the trees proved extremely useful.

The Grade 1 listed ruins of Finchale Priory began life in the 13th century as a Benedictine priory. Today they are managed by English Heritage.  The only details I could glean from their page are that the Priory was founded on the site of a retired pirate’s hermitage (!) and was later used as a holiday retreat for monks from Durham Cathedral.

The approach is through peaceful countryside, covered in rapeseed early in the season

The approach is through peaceful countryside, covered in rapeseed early in the season

The clouds are a little menacing so we need to be quick!

The clouds are a little menacing, so we need to be quick!

We might just make it!

We might just make it!

St. Godric of Finchale was an English hermit, merchant and medieval saint who was born in Norfolk.  After many pilgrimages around the Mediterranean, he spent the last 60 years of his life as a hermit in these idyllic surrounds.  To find that same peace and serenity you need to visit out of season, as today a caravan park adjoins the site.

As so often, I turn to Wikipedia for my knowledge.  For instance, I had no clear idea what a piscina might be, though I was assured that there was a double one on the south wall.  It’s a shallow basin, placed near the altar of a church, used for washing the communion vessels. Hunting through my photos, I discover that I have some evidence.

A scilla

A double piscina

A view through the ruins

A view through the ruins

But this is the sight that intrigues me most

But this is the sight that intrigues me most

I cannot seem to find a reference that explains this ‘chimney’ with a conical point, and I can’t recollect seeing one before.  If any of you can help me on this, I’d be grateful.  Now, you remember that we are beside the river?

Click on a photo for a closer look

The view from the prior’s study
An inviting bridge crosses the river
The walls are good and thick
But with a strangely shaped door!
For a while the sky is blue
And I can admire the cloud through the many windows
See those right at the back of this shot?
The ruins with the farmhouse/cafe alongside

The ruins with the farmhouse/cafe alongside

And a closer look at that 'chimney'

And a closer look at that ‘chimney’

While the sky is blue I think we should cross over the bridge.  Got your brolly, just in case?

Here we go!
The water is shallow in places
But the bridge supports are solid
In places the River Wear flows swiftly

In places the River Wear flows quite swiftly

Across the bridge, you can look back at the Priory

Looking back, a view of the Priory

Choices next, for a short, circular walk through Cocken Woods.  You can climb the steps, rather steeply, or follow the river bank for a short distance and then climb, a little more gently, up through the woods.  No contest, really!  Just past bluebell season, there was the thickest carpet and a deafening aroma of wild garlic!

IMG_4561

A lamb or two
And a bench!

It had to happen!  Just about then the skies opened and the rain battered the river.  My back pressed close to a tree trunk, I watched the steady tattoo and inhaled deeply.  When the rain eased a little, there was just time to cross the bridge and slip quickly inside the cafe.

It was a welcoming space
And I just remembered where I had my last cream scone, Jude!

You’re probably thinking that that’s enough for the day, but I never want to waste an opportunity. Beyond the picnic benches, a path follows the river, on the same shore as the Priory but in the opposite direction.  There’s a little climb before it levels out so I won’t make you walk again.  Stay here and I’ll just show you a couple of photos.

Beside the river
And looking back at the bridge
Up among the trees
Struck by lightning?
Or simply old?

Just one last look at the Priory, before it’s time to go.

Probably my favourite shot

Loving the shapes and the shadows

And a surprise beneath the Priory!

And one last surprise, beneath the Priory!

I hope you enjoyed my ‘traces of the past’.  I’ve included the English Heritage link for directions and opening times, and the other links for history and background.  There is a special link too. Many of you will have seen Paula’s traces of the past, in Slovakia.  I hope I’m not too late with my offering of Finchale Priory.

One cup of coffee down, two to go?

walking logo

For any of you not used to my ramblings, can I direct you to my Jo’s Monday walk page or the logo above?  It will encourage you to join me.  For all you other lovely people, can I just say a huge thanks, both for your support and your wonderful contributions.  Please make time to visit the posts below.  You won’t regret it!

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Drake’s always a winner- in more ways than one!  First with his contribution again last week :

Neighbour-visiting 

Back on home turf with Anabel, in Scotland.  Do you know this one?

Loch Ardinning

Jude apologised for ‘another flowery walk’.  Is she mad?  Good old King George V!

Kerdhva Gov Jori V  (didn’t know I could speak Cornish- did you?)

You can always rely on Paula to find true beauty, even when she’s sleepy.  This is exquisite!

Sing me a lullaby

A guy with a wicked sense of humour, Cardinal’s style is unique :

Fitness and Relax Toilets

I have a cousin in Toronto. Maybe I should pay him a surprise visit one day?

Junkboat Travels: Monday Walks

Will I EVER tire of the beauty of the Grand Canyon?  I doubt it!

Walk on a Timeline (One Long Step= 1 Million Years)

I get to sit alongside Paula while Lucile pedals this week!  Don’t miss this!

Virtual Bike Ride with Jo and Paula

You can always depend on Debbie for variety!  I wonder where next?

A Walk along Berlin’s Landwehrkanal

Laia’s post simply shimmers with colour and beauty (and blue ice!)  Another one not to miss!

Fox Glacier and lake Matheson : do not believe in postcards

And while we’re in that part of the world, here’s a fascinating walk in Tasmania, with Ruth :

Waterworks, pipelines and falls

Jaspa keeps on going back to Venice.  Well, why wouldn’t you?

The Irresistible Lure of Venice

Lots of shares again this week.  I expect you’ve seen a few of them around the blogs, but please make time for any you’ve missed. There are some fabulous contributions.  And if you have any spare time, Monday Escapes are acquiring a steady stream of followers.  If only I could find more time!

Have a happy week and watch out for that heatwave!  See you next Monday?

 

 

142 comments

  1. That last photo is really something – what a strange, haunted looking place. Your entire walk sounds wonderful – apart from the rain. What a glorious landscape to walk through. I enjoyed travelling along with you.

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  4. Today, I especially enjoyed your walking-guide voice, and your concern about keeping us dry. The ruins are splendid, and the bluebells, and I love that last bit of forest. And the blogosphere seems to be haunted by cream teas, dammit, just when I decide no dairy. Thank you.

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    1. Knew you’d like the woodsy bit, Meg 🙂 Greek yogurt is my downfall. I’ve resolved to give it up but it’s Wimbledon fortnight! Got to have something on my strawberries 🙂

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      2. Is there any other sport? 🙂 Unlike Jude I can’t stay glued to the screen all day (even though Rafa’s playing 😦 ) Going to Leeds to help James move.

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      3. It astonishes me. Four members of my small blogging community all watching a ball hit backwards and forwards – and backwards and forwards – and backwards and forwards. To me, a mystery!

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    1. Hi Jude, and thanks! (I’d just gone in the bath when you arrived- new book! 🙂 )
      It being Monday I was out walking this morning but back in time to see Novak. I can sometimes manage the tennis and laptop (though obviously not when Rafa’s on screen). I always find it’s a contest between the weather and watching! If it’s sunny I’m hankering to be out there. Got to go to Leeds today to help James move so I’ll be on tenterhooks when R starts his campaign. Trying not to have expectations, and I suspect that’s the way to go for him too. 🙂
      Will join you soon 🙂

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      1. Has James finished uni now then? What’s he got in mind for the future? Leeds is not a bad city, I rather liked it, but spent more time in Bradford as a teenager as it was easier to get a bus home from and the pubs stayed open longer 😉

        I know what you mean about the tennis – I try to get out in the sun before it starts, and I’m busy re-reading books from years ago as I want to start de-cluttering and can then consign them to a charity shop!

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      2. He’s been working for a couple of years but just rubbish call centres. Now started audio work with Scriveners the specs people and very much enjoying it. Phew! Firstly flat on his own. We’re just heading home now x
        I

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      3. My middle boy worked in a call centre (goodness knows how he got the job as all I ever heard from him on a phone were grunts!), eventually he created his own job there in web design and has done very well – no formal qualifications though so he’s lucky to have got as far as he has. We keep encouraging him to try for Australia, but he’s too much of a home boy, more’s the pity.

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  8. Now I know what a piscina is, Jo. You’re the best tour guide ever. But I have no idea what the ‘chimney’ with a conical point is for (and I looked through the comments and can’t find an answer). It’s a mystery – if you find out can you give an update? 🙂

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    1. I always remember following a little lady with a pink umbrella in Venice, many years ago, Dianne. That’s me- tour guide Jo 🙂 Funny how nobody ever has the answer when you really want to know 😦

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    1. We had a peacock wandering around squawking and a flock of young grouse (I wasn’t swift enough to get a decent shot as they scurried away). It really was a lovely day, Seonaid. Glad you enjoyed it and I hope you’re getting out and enjoying summer too. 🙂

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  14. Love all the look-through views – is there a specific word for in English? wonder if wild garlic smells like normal garlic? Sorry no walk this week – maybe on Saturday…but for now,, almost each day around sunset we run out of the house to catch and shoot the sunset:)

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    1. I don’t think there is, Jesh? If so, I can’t remember it 🙂 Yes- it’s the same smell. Quite strong when there’s this much of it 🙂 Sunset was lovely here last night.

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  15. What a beautiful walk Jo. That priory is huge – it must have been a progressive town with plenty of people around. That river must have played an important role for commerce at that time.

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    1. My understanding is that it started very small, Bebs, and then was added to over time. I think that it’s ‘heyday’ was when monks from nearby Durham were using it as a retreat. 🙂

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  16. Wonderful writing of the ruins – what better way to present the scene than with the menacing storm clouds!! Perfect timing – a most enjoyable Monday walk Jo!

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  17. This is lovely. Despite living in Co Durham for part of my youth I don’t remember ever going here (though I’ve just shown it to my mum and she says they visited before I was born!) Thanks for including my walk in your links. Nothing to offer this week – maybe next week.

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    1. The site has indeed been there for a long time, Anabel (I guess that’s stating the obvious 🙂 ) but it is very well maintained and a lovely location, especially when it’s quiet. No worries, hon- you’ve earned a rest! 🙂

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  18. You absolutly a lady worth follow on a walk – not because it often ends at a well provided table – not only – but it is always interesting, fascinating and inspiring walks you set up – this building just need at brick or two, a few nails or three and a hard day’s work – so it would be an amazing framework for a cozy evening in front of the fireplace with a good book and a good whiskey… 😀

    I really love those “never give up” architectures – amazing… 🙂

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    1. Thank you so much, Drake. 🙂 I’ve not been home long (from walking, of course) and am just responding to my comments now (and keeping an eye on Wimbledon).
      Yes- a roof would be good! But the location is beautiful 🙂

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  19. very much enjoyed your traces of the past, Jo! as always, thanks for sharing your lovely walk! just love it – awesome pictures and interesting history 🙂

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