Jo’s Monday walk : Loulé Uncovered

Nossa Senhora

Nossa Senhora da Piedade

Perched high on a hill, overlooking the Algarve, Nossa Senhora da Piedade at Loulé is one of those places I’d always meant to visit.  When I finally did, it had a wonderful surprise in store.

A ‘scramble’ of a market town, Loulé dates back at least till Roman times.  We’ll have a wander through the historic centre shortly, but first I want to take you up to the heights with me.

It's a long way up!

Looking down from the Chapel

The original Chapel of our Lady of Mercy (Nossa Senhora da Piedade) was built in 1553, but was partially destroyed in the earthquake of 1755.  Driving along the A22 motorway past Loulé, the modern dome is clearly visible above the town.  I had often wondered how it looked in close up.

The dome

The dome in close up, with alarmingly grey skies

Looking up to the bell tower

Looking up to the bell tower

On Easter Sunday a huge celebration begins here, Festa da Mãe Soberana (the feast of the Sovereign Mother).  A statue of the patron saint is carried from her resting place, in the Sanctuary, down the hill to the Church of San Francisco, on Festa Pequena.(Small Feast)  Two weeks later, on Festa Grande, she is returned to her home on the holy mountain, with full ceremony, prayers and fireworks.  I would love to see the spectacle of the procession.  For now I have to content myself with a look at Mãe Soberana, quietly waiting.

The statue, resting inside the Sanctuary

The statue, resting inside the Sanctuary

From afar the domed building appears to be the entirety of the church, so I was delighted to find the chapel restoration alongside. Known as the ‘House of Candles’, the tiny space is exquisite. Ceiling paintings dating from 1760 had been damaged by smoke from the candle offerings but were restored when the modern building was constructed.  The wall panels depicting the Passion of Christ are from a later date.

Ceiling paintings from 1760

Ceiling paintings from 1760

IMG_7082

IMG_7085

Cherubs adorn the wall panels
With scenes from the Passion
And Crucifiction
The altar

I love the contrast of old and new.  Time to come back down to earth and begin our stroll.  I would not recommend climbing the steps to Nossa Senhora. Doing so carrying the saint must be quite an ordeal.  Unless it’s Easter, there’s ample parking up there.

Leaving the Sanctuary behind

Leaving the Sanctuary behind

The streets below are made for strolling.  Tile patterns beneath your feet enhance your wander.

The pedestrianised streets of the centre

The pedestrianised streets of the centre

The excellent website  Loulé Uncovered will guide you around Loulé better than I could ever hope to do.  There you will find a map and suggestions of what you can hope to see.  On Saturday mornings the market will be in full swing. At most other times you will still be treated to the splendour of the Arabian style market hall.  Poke your nose inside. The sights and smells will capture your senses.

The main street and the Arabian market

The main street and the Arabian market

Loulé Castle dates from 13th century and still retains its imposing walls and a keep. Artisans practise their crafts in the surrounding streets.  Follow them through to the Largo da Matriz and the main church of Loulé, Igreja de S. Clemente.  The procession will pass by here on Festa Grande.  A small garden, Jardim dos Amuados (Garden of Sulks) nestles behind the church. The view sweeps out across the valley and there on the hill, Nossa Senhora da Piedade.

Click on the gallery and we’ll stroll

The market is warming up
An onlooker
Busy market stalls
Mellow walls
A smoked ham
What do you think, dear?
Rosy pink
Faded grandeur
Solid castle walls
Beauty in a restaurant
The clock tower
The view across to Nossa Senhora da Piedade

 

I hope that you found Loulé interesting.  I was so glad I finally made it up that hill.  My L is for Loule has a few more details, including some lively Carnival scenes.

Next week my walk will bring me nearer home.  I would love it if you could join me there.

walking logo

How to join in with the walks?  Click on the logo or my Jo’s Monday walk page for the details. Thank you so much to all my contributors.  You brighten up my Mondays.  Let’s get that kettle on and settle back for a good read, shall we?

………………………………………………………………………………….

Sit beside the fire in a cosy armchair with Drake.  Or party at magnificent St. George Hall!  :

Beyond the Frontage

Debbie’s found another intriguing canal in the city(with street art!) :

Vienna’s Arty Canal

I asked Esther for a walking song and this is what I got!  Applaud the lady!

Walk with a Crocodile

Amy has such fun on her Sunday walks.  You have to join her!

The Final Race

Geoff’s been checking up on street art too, including the famous Stik :

Dulwich Street Art 

What can you say about Yvette?  A heart of gold comes to mind :

Florida and B & W Day 3 

Please welcome Becky everybody.  She likes to spend some of her Winter on the Algarve, and enjoys bird watching :

Ludo and Lago de Sao Lourenco

Not so fortunate, Violet Sky joins us again with some seriously depressing weather  :

Expect delays

Japan has a culture all its own, and I’m enjoying learning about it with the Eternal Traveller  :

Do you speak English?

And lastly, a riverside walk beside the Exe, with lovely Gilly (and her dogs)  :

Strolling Route 2

I’m nearly ready to head off out now.  Hope you all have a wonderful week and can make time for a walk or two.

114 comments

  1. what a lovely place, Jo! and very interesting Easter tradition honoring Mary! the chapel altar is intricately beautiful! great captures, as always and thanks for sharing 🙂

    Like

    Reply

  2. Marvellous tour as usual Jo. I think you have shown us the Arab market before, I recognised the domes, but nice to take us inside today. And the paintings in that chapel are astonishing. Such beautiful work. I am glad they were able to restore it. You make a visit to the Algarve look so attractive with every post.
    Jude xx

    Like

    Reply

    1. It’s a great little town for ‘mooching’, Jude 🙂 I was going to do the chapel for a Thursday’s Special but it kind of morphed into a walk. I hope it’s not too disjointed. I was blown away with the chapel. Totally made my day because the dome was quite sparse and without atmosphere inside. Incidentally, have you been watching the Richard III stuff? I’m mildly fascinated! 🙂 Thanks for the kind words.

      Like

      Reply

      3. Ha! I’ve just sat down for a while. My feet do get tired sometimes you know 🙂 I have to walk miles to find suitable benches!
        Thanks, Jude! Just gonna make a cuppa and I’ll be there. 🙂

        Like

  5. Wow Jo what an incredible place – the history was so interesting. Loved the views from the Dome and then the street-view. When I saw the steps leaving up to the Dome I wondered, oh-oh did Jo have to climb those? So glad to read that you drove! Have a lovely week.

    Like

    Reply

  6. A lovely array of photos, Jo. I love cherubs in all poses and art forms, and the photo of the interior with the stained glass is quite startling for its contrast between old and new.

    Like

    Reply

    1. I was really surprised to find the chapel, Sammy. I’d just been thinking how lacking in atmosphere the dome building was and suddenly I had it in spades! 🙂

      Like

      Reply
  9. Pingback: Monday Walk: Spring is here… | The World Is a Book...

  11. Loulé looks like yet another lovely Portuguese town, Jo, one to make you love Portugal even more than you already do. Thanks for taking us along on your Monday walk. I love the main street and Arabian market, the colorful buildings, and that beautiful chapel. Another reason for me to return to Portugal one of these days. 🙂

    Like

    Reply

    1. Hiya Cathy! Sorry I didn’t make it to yours yesterday. It was a bit of a full-on day 🙂 Just back from walking so I’ll make a cuppa and join you soon. Couldn’t let you near that market! You’d need a sack for all the things you’d buy 🙂

      Like

      Reply

      1. Don’t apologize, Jo. I don’t know how on earth you keep up with all the people who follow and comment on your blog!! Especially now in China, with the excruciatingly slow internet, I have trouble opening blogs (they’re blocked in China and I have to use a VPN), and find it very hard to read half of the blog posts I get in my inbox. 🙂

        Like

    1. Yes, I did. There is one shot of one of the market stalls in the gallery. It’s a myriad of fruit/veg/fish etc stalls with little shops and cafes all around the edges. A good rainy day place, I guess 🙂

      Like

      Reply

  15. What can I say, you never cease to surprise me pleasantly with your descriptions and photos… I could almost imagine you heading the group of tourists and telling them the story..

    Like

    Reply
  18. Pingback: Walking the Boardwalk at Wicken Fen | Travel with Intent

  19. buongiorno amica Jo, è un buon inizio di settimana passeggiare con te ammirando i colori e le chiese del Portogallo, la popolazione è molto devota e molto sentito il culto per la Madonna, le foto nitide e chiare rendono esaustivo il racconto
    un bacio

    Like

    Reply

  20. painting ceilings, verandas, mellow walls, smoked ham… and “streets below are made for strolling” – Loulé is interesting and beautiful Jo, thanks for the walk here… oh and love your little splash of humor about climbing all those steps to Nossa Senhora and how carrying the
    “saint must be quite an ordeal.” ha!

    Like

    Reply

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.