A return to Castle Howard

Looking down on the Great Hall

Looking down on the Great Hall

What finer place to start today than where I left off my tour of Castle Howard at Christmas, in the Great Hall?  The fire was roaring in the grate, and it needed to be, to heat this vast space.   I had completely forgotten the chill outdoors, in the sumptuousness of my surroundings.  Looking up at the dome, I could only marvel at the skill and resourcefulness that had repaired the enormous damage done by the 1940 fire.

The story of the fire and the Brideshead connection are the subjects of the exhibition in High Saloon, where my tour takes us next.  These rooms were completely destroyed in the fire, including painted frescoes by Pellegrini from 1709. New joists and flooring were installed in the 1970s, but the interiors were still burnt-out shells in 2007.  It was maybe a stroke of genius to turn these rooms into a film set for the filming of Evelyn Waugh’s novel Brideshead Revisited.  In 1981 and again in 2008, Castle Howard became Brideshead, with a cast of stars.

The casting for the dome fresco

Castle Howard has been used for a number of film productions, the most recent of which was Death comes to Pemberley in 2014.  Is it really any wonder?

Look what I've spotted?

Just look what I’ve spotted! Haven’t owls always been popular?

The Crimson Dining Room

Such an opulent dining room

What a setting!

And what a table setting!

A room recently opened for viewing by the public is the New Library, formerly the Canaletto Room, which also was destroyed by the fire.  Books have been collected on every conceivable subject relating to the estate, creating a warm and welcoming space.

Everything for the good Victorian child appears to be the theme of the next room.  See any old favourites?  Ooh, that rocking horse, please!

The Doll’s House is truly life-sized
Can you see inside?
A train set, of course!
A rocking horse or a bear?

Nor have the adults been knowingly neglected.

There’s a Music Room, naturally
And a Crimson Dining Room
With another roaring fire
But the Turquoise Drawing Room is rather a favourite
With a duck and a mince pie
And a wonderful swag of curtain
And how hard is it to pick your favourite tree?

And how hard is it to pick your favourite tree?

I think we’re not too far from the end.  The Long Gallery comes next, 160 feet long, with an Octagon lined with books as its centrepiece.  Today a cellist is playing Christmas tunes.

The Long Gallery
With the Octagon at its centre
With fabulous tapestries
The most exquisite furnishings
And the prettiest baubles on the tree

Just a little venture into the Chapel, then I think we can go home.  Originally intended to be a dining room (another one!), in the 1870s the floor was lowered, a new entrance created and the now chapel was redecorated in the pre-Raphaelite style.  The Howard family were patrons of William Morris, and one of his works was a stained glass window for a nearby Reformatory. This has long since closed and the window is currently on loan to Castle Howard.

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I expect your eyes are tired of looking now.  Mine are, just a little, but I’ve so enjoyed putting together my experience of Castle Howard at Christmas.  I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.  The website is full of details and photographs and I’ve included a few links, in case you’re interested.

Last year I went to Chatsworth House in Derbyshire at Christmas time, and the two stately homes have much in common.  Both have hosted film crews for Brideshead and other period dramas. Where Chatsworth enthrals with its grand themes, Castle Howard seduces with a very traditional Christmas.  I have to say that I like both.  How about you?

90 comments

  2. An absolutely wonderful guided tour, Jo! The sumptuousness just takes one’s breath away, although I couldn’t help, just for a brief moment, wondering who does all the dusting. 🙂 I’ll take the rocking horse. he would look so nice in my new house when it’s finished. He could stand next to my piano. The Christmas trees are all lovely, but I will actually plump for the one with bare branches. It’s rather classy, I think.

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  4. oh, Jo!!! I could scroll through these again and again. Sumptuous is the word that comes to mind and a crackling fire in the grate amidst those beautiful marble columns …just divine!

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    1. It’s a whole other time and place, isn’t it, Sammy? Toasted crumpets by the fire, a sip of sherry and afternoon tea…. those were the days! I’d only have been a parlour maid, not landed gentry 🙂

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      1. Me, too, Jo but honestly I don’t think I could stand to wear those corsets and have maids fussing over me in my bedroom!! I’d rather be in the basement with my homies 🙂

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  5. Takes the idea of re-decorating to a whole new level !
    Fabulous wandering round with you Jo . and no … I lost count with the baubles …
    One sumptuous festive time the family will have of it all . Hide and seek anyone … coming ready or not … may take some time 😉

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  15. Oh my. Just beautiful. 🙂 And I’d forgotten they made a movie version of Brideshead Revisited. I didn’t bother with it (even if one of the writers was Andrew Davies) because, really, how do you top Jeremy Irons, Anthony Andrews, John Gielgud and Laurence Olivier, amongst others?

    Thanks for the visit. I am feeling quite nostalgic. 🙂

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  18. Have always loved Castle Howard Jo – last went there with my dad a couple of years ago plus I really liked the BBC production of Brideshead Revisited have seen it many times and have the DVD! Lovely post 🙂

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