Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey seemed to me to be quite at home shrouded in mist.  I’d chosen the riverside walk from Richmond, in Yorkshire, for its Autumn colour and had almost forgotten the sad story of the Drummer Boy.  Legend has it that, towards the end of the 18th century, a tunnel was discovered beneath the keep of Richmond Castle.  The entrance to the tunnel was very narrow, so a small regimental drummer boy was chosen, to squeeze through and investigate.

He was lowered into the tunnel and instructed to beat his drum loudly as he walked.  The soldiers above could follow his progress from the drumbeat. He led them away from the castle and down to the River Swale, in the direction of Easby Abbey.  Half a mile from the Abbey, the drumbeat ceased.  The little drummer was never seen or heard from again!

The Drummer Boy stone

The Drummer Boy stone

I think I can probably guarantee to guide us on this walk without disappearing.  Are you game?

From Richmond Market Place, turn north on Frenchgate, and then right, along Station Rd.  Just as you reach the bridge, with The Station on the far shore, you will find a turn off, pointing to Easby Abbey.  The path climbs up from the riverside and will lead you to a junction, where the Drummer Boy stone is placed.

A popular landmark on Frenchgate
An Autumnal dew bathes the roses
Looking back towards the castle

Looking back towards the castle and St. Mary’s Church

Leaves strew the footpath

Leaves strew the footpath

The river chortles along below, tantalising with glimpses through the trees.  Soon you come to a field and across this you have St. Agatha’s House (a private residence) on your left and to your right, Easby Abbey.  The Abbey of St. Agatha, as it is more correctly known, dates from 1152 but has stood abandoned since the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the late 1530s.  The former inhabitants were canons rather than monks, members of the Premonstratensian (or Norbertine) order.  The White Canons, known for the colour of their habit, were Roman Catholics.

It's a lonely spot but St. Agatha's Church is gentle company

It’s a lonely spot, but St. Agatha’s Church is good company

The Abbey from the church grounds

The Abbey from the church grounds

The site is maintained by English Heritage and is free of charge.  I was a little surprised to find the church open and even more surprised at what I found inside.

Beneath the beamed ceiling, light flooded the walls
With traditional stained glass windows
But the painted arches were unexpected
And the coloured frescoes took me completely by surprise
Lit by the windows
With beautiful alcoves
And intimate detail

The church is known to pre-date the Abbey and the Medieval wall paintings date from 1250.  It felt well-loved.  In the grounds a small army of men were beavering away, removing overgrown trees.  Retracing my steps through the church gate, I turned my attention to the Abbey.

The gatehouse lay just across the lane

The gatehouse, just across the lane from the church

The graceful lines of the Abbey

The sturdy lines of the Abbey

Cloister detail

Cloister detail

The window of the Refectory

The window of the Refectory

Time to resume our walk.  Turn right at the Abbey gate and follow the lane down.  A gravel path beside the River Swale heads east and after about 300 yards comes to an old iron bridge.  Cross over and take the former railway track, signed ‘Richmond, half a mile’.

Hips and haws?

Hips or haws?

The River Swale chatters along below

The River Swale chatters along below

Once back at The Station, you can easily retrace your steps, but it seems a shame to me to leave the river when it’s about to reveal its might. How about we pop into The Station for a snack and a look at some art work before we continue?

The ham hock soup was delicious
And I always like a browse at the art
There’s always something that appeals

I’ve written about The Station before.  In fact, I was there on my birthday, 2 years ago.  Seems I have a weakness for this part of the world in the Autumn.  Since I was last there a bakery has opened and the accompanying smells were delicious!  Come on- just ten minutes more.  I promise you, it’s worthwhile.

Cross over the bridge and turn left through a gate.  The path follows the river quite closely or you can get nearer by walking on the grass.  The tree roots are exposed in places so watch your step if you leave the path.

Here’s the bridge
See what I mean about the roots?
Don’t get too close to the river!
Autumn’s carpet is beautiful, isn’t it?
Just about ready to fall

Can you hear a rumbling sound?  You might have caught sight of them through the trees.  The river is very low this year after a dry Summer.

My first sighting always makes me smile!

My first sighting always makes me smile!

Just a little closer

Just a little closer

The power of the water is awesome

The power of the water is awesome

As always, I find myself entranced

As always, I find myself entranced

I hope you will agree it was worth another 10 minutes walking?  The hard part lies ahead because the road winds quite steeply back up to the Market Place, passing by the Castle.  The circular walk from the Market Place to Easby Abbey and back is just 3 miles.  Free parking is available at The Station, if you get there early enough. (and it saves you a climb)

Legend also links the Drummer Boy to Lewis Carroll, who grew up in Richmond.  Allegedly ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ began life as ‘Alice’s Adventures Underground’.  I rather like the idea that he took inspiration from this story.

walking logo

And now it’s time to put the kettle on and join my fellow walkers this week.  Click on the logo if you’d like to join in.  You’d be more than welcome and there are always beautiful walks to share. Many thanks to everybody for their kind contributions.  Here we go!

Drake always has the power to fire my imagination  :

Emptiness with content

Of all the world’s beautiful cathedrals, I didn’t know this one, so thank you, Cardinal  :

Berlin Cathedral

And for probably the best deer shot you’ve seen this year!  Amy- you’re a treasure!  :

O.P. Schnabel Park

We’re honoured this week to share a post from Lucy, in a very special place on the Northumbrian coast  :

Marooned on Lindisfarne Island

If it’s scenery you’re after, it’s hard to beat County Tipperary.  Many thanks to Joan for sharing  :

Up in the hills

For the longest time I’ve been following Bespoke Traveller.  Read this post and you’ll see why  :

The long way down in Grand Canyon

If waterfalls and sky walks are your thing, follow Pauline to New South Wales  :

A journey into the dawn of time

If you prefer shopping, Meg has her shopping baskets at the ready  :

A Williamsburg walk

That’s it for another week.  I hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Happy walking!

155 comments

  1. I know it’s just a legend but I was saddened by the story of the drummer boy. It looks like an enchanting walk and the extra ten minutes were definitely worth while. I love the russet shade of autumn in your images. 😉

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    1. Oh, Gilly- you sweetheart! Trust you to think of that. I have to admit I kind of dismissed it as ‘a legend’ but if you look at Drake’s video, maybe not? Hugs for your kind heart. Did you have a successful Saturday at the show? 🙂

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  3. Simply wonderful, Jo – as always. It’s impossible for an Aussie to think what it must be like to be able to wander at will among such beautiful places; so this project brings me enormous pleasure.

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    1. It gladdens my heart to have you say that, Mrs. M! Thank you so much 🙂 It’s one of the joys of my walks that I get to share wonderful diversity that I can never hope to see. Have you read Bespoke’s Grand Canyon? Simply stunning! I am a very privileged lady to have such company. (and if I say that you’re included in them you will simply call me a flatterer 🙂 ) How goes the birthday list?

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    2. I will, Mrs. M 🙂 I’m making the rounds now but it takes me a long time. And Paula wants me to have a Portuguese lesson in my ‘spare’ time! Have a happy day! 🙂

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  5. Hi! This walk means more to me since I have read Pillars of the Earth, by Ken Follett. That book did a lot to stimulate my imagination about medieval architecture. And thanks for the links to the other walks. I followed one to he Grand Canyon, from where I have just returned myself.

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  7. Jo how sad about the little drummer! I did love the mystical walk. Wonderful use of the assorted arches in your photos. thanks for feeding me too. I was starving after all of that exercise. 🙂

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    1. It’s a lovely spot, Tanya. The ‘big house’ over the way was having work done and I was just contemplating what it would be like to live there. Long way to walk for your milk and, no, I don’t fancy keeping cows, thanks. 🙂
      Not till Guy Fawkes and I’ll be in the Algarve.

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      1. I did take me almost three hours to find those bugs and the pods in the woods 🙂 They walked amazingly fast, my camera had hard to capture it, and I didn’t even have a moment to turn it to motion, which was a big mistake 😦
        Thank you for your compliment about the deer shot, Jo 🙂

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  11. This was a wonderful walk on Monday morning. The abbey is one beautiful structure, but I must say the river scenes and the flowing water were gorgeous.

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  12. I hadn’t heard about the drummer boy (so sad!) or how it inspired Lewis Carroll to some extent, so thank you for an interesting piece from history. The pictures are beautiful, and the abbey is gorgeous!

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  14. Another wonderful walk Jo! I’m certainly enjoying these Yorkshire walks it’s giving me quite an insight into the county of my upbringing. What a sad tale I hadn’t heard the story of the drummer boy before nor have I visited Easby Abbey – another place to add to the list. It looks a beautiful part of the world and the photos of the river are particularly stunning. Have a great week 🙂

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  15. What could be better than a walk though an autumn countryside? I love your pictures of the Abbey and the colorful woodlands. Those frescos are fabulous. I adore that picture: “leaves strew the paths.” What a sad story about the Little Drummer Boy; it’s interesting that Alice in Wonderland may have been inspired by that story. Great walk, Jo. 🙂

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    1. Thanks, Cathy 🙂 Working day over for you? I struggle with the time difference. I’m just back from this morning’s walk and snuggled up with a coffee and the laptop.

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      1. Yes, I was done with teaching at noon on Monday, Jo. However, I was still working till 7:00, marking papers and planning lessons. Ugh. My week is really hectic through Wednesday at noon, then it lightens up a bit. Snuggling up with coffee and the laptop on a cool fall day sounds heavenly. It’s still hot and humid here.

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  17. Now this is my kind of walk Jo, history, water, tea-room AND autumn colours. You have excelled yourself this week! We forget that the Medieval churches were very brightly painted – they must have looked extremely impressive at the time. And of course all those monasteries were very rich. I don’t remember having been to Richmond, though I have passed by as I driven through Scotch Corner many times Now that has to be remedied!

    I’m up a hill this week: http://wp.me/pL5Ms-1Yd ( I know it’s not often you’ll find me up one these days) And as the sun has just come out, I’m off for a little stroll to the river and to see if ‘my’ trees have turned colour yet, before the forecasted winds come along and blow all the leaves off. 🙂
    Jude xx

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    1. It does have a bit of everything, doesn’t it, Jude? I liked the atmosphere with this one. It’s important to vary them as much as I can. I have one more Autumnal one for next week and then I may schedule one I’ve been ‘sitting on’ for my Algarve week. The colour was quite patchy on my walk in a local dene this morning but the camera battery was almost dead. Just as well- I have more photos than I can write posts for. You know the feeling! 🙂
      Thanks a lot, Jude. Glad you enjoyed Drake’s video too. I saw it when I was researching this but didn’t include the link. My walks tend to go on a bit anyway. Don’t want everyone to be as exhausted as me. 🙂

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      1. You are so considerate Jo 🙂 My trees are still green, sadly. Took a different camera with me too and the photos weren’t very good 😦
        I shall have another go at them next week, then it will be too late as I need to finish everything off for the Oz trip. Probably won’t be blogging much after this week, though I will try and schedule a few posts and I want to capture some Halloween windows for next week too 😀

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      2. HATE Halloween so I’m glad I’ll be in the Algarve. Remind me what date you go to Sydney? Just read Cathy and was thinking of a considerate reply when you ‘popped up’ 🙂

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