Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey seemed to me to be quite at home shrouded in mist.  I’d chosen the riverside walk from Richmond, in Yorkshire, for its Autumn colour and had almost forgotten the sad story of the Drummer Boy.  Legend has it that, towards the end of the 18th century, a tunnel was discovered beneath the keep of Richmond Castle.  The entrance to the tunnel was very narrow, so a small regimental drummer boy was chosen, to squeeze through and investigate.

He was lowered into the tunnel and instructed to beat his drum loudly as he walked.  The soldiers above could follow his progress from the drumbeat. He led them away from the castle and down to the River Swale, in the direction of Easby Abbey.  Half a mile from the Abbey, the drumbeat ceased.  The little drummer was never seen or heard from again!

The Drummer Boy stone

The Drummer Boy stone

I think I can probably guarantee to guide us on this walk without disappearing.  Are you game?

From Richmond Market Place, turn north on Frenchgate, and then right, along Station Rd.  Just as you reach the bridge, with The Station on the far shore, you will find a turn off, pointing to Easby Abbey.  The path climbs up from the riverside and will lead you to a junction, where the Drummer Boy stone is placed.

A popular landmark on Frenchgate
An Autumnal dew bathes the roses
Looking back towards the castle

Looking back towards the castle and St. Mary’s Church

Leaves strew the footpath

Leaves strew the footpath

The river chortles along below, tantalising with glimpses through the trees.  Soon you come to a field and across this you have St. Agatha’s House (a private residence) on your left and to your right, Easby Abbey.  The Abbey of St. Agatha, as it is more correctly known, dates from 1152 but has stood abandoned since the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the late 1530s.  The former inhabitants were canons rather than monks, members of the Premonstratensian (or Norbertine) order.  The White Canons, known for the colour of their habit, were Roman Catholics.

It's a lonely spot but St. Agatha's Church is gentle company

It’s a lonely spot, but St. Agatha’s Church is good company

The Abbey from the church grounds

The Abbey from the church grounds

The site is maintained by English Heritage and is free of charge.  I was a little surprised to find the church open and even more surprised at what I found inside.

Beneath the beamed ceiling, light flooded the walls
With traditional stained glass windows
But the painted arches were unexpected
And the coloured frescoes took me completely by surprise
Lit by the windows
With beautiful alcoves
And intimate detail

The church is known to pre-date the Abbey and the Medieval wall paintings date from 1250.  It felt well-loved.  In the grounds a small army of men were beavering away, removing overgrown trees.  Retracing my steps through the church gate, I turned my attention to the Abbey.

The gatehouse lay just across the lane

The gatehouse, just across the lane from the church

The graceful lines of the Abbey

The sturdy lines of the Abbey

Cloister detail

Cloister detail

The window of the Refectory

The window of the Refectory

Time to resume our walk.  Turn right at the Abbey gate and follow the lane down.  A gravel path beside the River Swale heads east and after about 300 yards comes to an old iron bridge.  Cross over and take the former railway track, signed ‘Richmond, half a mile’.

Hips and haws?

Hips or haws?

The River Swale chatters along below

The River Swale chatters along below

Once back at The Station, you can easily retrace your steps, but it seems a shame to me to leave the river when it’s about to reveal its might. How about we pop into The Station for a snack and a look at some art work before we continue?

The ham hock soup was delicious
And I always like a browse at the art
There’s always something that appeals

I’ve written about The Station before.  In fact, I was there on my birthday, 2 years ago.  Seems I have a weakness for this part of the world in the Autumn.  Since I was last there a bakery has opened and the accompanying smells were delicious!  Come on- just ten minutes more.  I promise you, it’s worthwhile.

Cross over the bridge and turn left through a gate.  The path follows the river quite closely or you can get nearer by walking on the grass.  The tree roots are exposed in places so watch your step if you leave the path.

Here’s the bridge
See what I mean about the roots?
Don’t get too close to the river!
Autumn’s carpet is beautiful, isn’t it?
Just about ready to fall

Can you hear a rumbling sound?  You might have caught sight of them through the trees.  The river is very low this year after a dry Summer.

My first sighting always makes me smile!

My first sighting always makes me smile!

Just a little closer

Just a little closer

The power of the water is awesome

The power of the water is awesome

As always, I find myself entranced

As always, I find myself entranced

I hope you will agree it was worth another 10 minutes walking?  The hard part lies ahead because the road winds quite steeply back up to the Market Place, passing by the Castle.  The circular walk from the Market Place to Easby Abbey and back is just 3 miles.  Free parking is available at The Station, if you get there early enough. (and it saves you a climb)

Legend also links the Drummer Boy to Lewis Carroll, who grew up in Richmond.  Allegedly ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ began life as ‘Alice’s Adventures Underground’.  I rather like the idea that he took inspiration from this story.

walking logo

And now it’s time to put the kettle on and join my fellow walkers this week.  Click on the logo if you’d like to join in.  You’d be more than welcome and there are always beautiful walks to share. Many thanks to everybody for their kind contributions.  Here we go!

Drake always has the power to fire my imagination  :

Emptiness with content

Of all the world’s beautiful cathedrals, I didn’t know this one, so thank you, Cardinal  :

Berlin Cathedral

And for probably the best deer shot you’ve seen this year!  Amy- you’re a treasure!  :

O.P. Schnabel Park

We’re honoured this week to share a post from Lucy, in a very special place on the Northumbrian coast  :

Marooned on Lindisfarne Island

If it’s scenery you’re after, it’s hard to beat County Tipperary.  Many thanks to Joan for sharing  :

Up in the hills

For the longest time I’ve been following Bespoke Traveller.  Read this post and you’ll see why  :

The long way down in Grand Canyon

If waterfalls and sky walks are your thing, follow Pauline to New South Wales  :

A journey into the dawn of time

If you prefer shopping, Meg has her shopping baskets at the ready  :

A Williamsburg walk

That’s it for another week.  I hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Happy walking!

155 comments

  1. That is such an interesting walk Jo. Strange story about the poor little drummer boy. Beautiful Autumn scenery and colours. What an interesting colour that water fall is, it looks like liquid treacle. Do you know why it is that colour?

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    2. Hi Pauline 🙂 I thought the water colouration was due to mineral content of the water, but Jude is probably right. There is a long smooth stretch of river before the falls which would permit plenty of opportunity for decay. Did you see Drake’s comment with the video about the Drummer Boy? It’s quite fun. 🙂

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      1. Yes I did. I love the way other bloggers can add things like that to posts. I like to read through the comments, when I have the time and a good internet connection. Now I am home, for a while. I am enjoying catching up with my “community”. I have a good fast cable connection to cyberspace… 🙂

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  2. Jo, you do take the loveliest walks. The story of the Drummer Boy is very sad. As for the Alice in Wonderland connection; here is another for you
    “I wonder if I shall fall right through the earth! How funny it’ll seem to come out among the people that walk with their heads downwards! The antipathies I think… but I shall have to ask them what the name of the country is, you know. Please Ma’am, is this New Zealand?”
    Quote from ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ by Lewis Carroll. This quote is connected to Lanarch’s Castle in New Zealand http://www.larnachcastle.co.nz/Visitor-Information/Visit-the-Gardens/Alice-in-Wonderland.aspx where there is an Alice in Wonderland theme in the garden. Perhaps the little Drummer Boy feel through a hole to New Zealand? 😉

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      1. Unfortunately I live a long way from those gardens. I only get to see them (in person) about once every ten to 15 years. 😦 However it’s always good to check up on them via the internet.

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  3. Nice post and makes me really want to visit the area,, I actually went for a long walk in the New Forest, and it made me realise how much I miss these treks.. Thanks for the Yorkshire walk,,

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      1. I will have to do a New Forest post for you Jo – we were there two years ago for my son’s wedding (and it coincided with my birthday) so we stayed for a week and explored the area, as usual 😀

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  7. Amazing walk, what a nature up there – excellent captured… 🙂

    The Drummer Boy Legend is the kind of stories we loves
    and there’s still spot on this old story so many years after… 🙂

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    2. Funny, I was looking at this video just yesterday, Drake 🙂 I did think about including it but it’s quite long and I didn’t watch it right through (I didn’t have much time). I just watched it now and it is quite interesting so thank you very much. There’s always a psychic grandma about somewhere 🙂

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      1. You’re welcome. I’m based in Angel, Islington. Now I’m even more inspired to see more of the UK, as clearly one doesn’t need to drive to do so 🙂

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      2. Certainly not from Islington. You’ll have an excellent bus service. I used to live in London many years ago and loved life on the top deck of a bus 🙂

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      3. he he, yes. The bus service is quite good. I just have to utilise the book I bought called ‘Tired of London, Tired of Life’ by Tom Jones and see more of those wonderful places he mentioned therein. 🙂

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    1. I do like it that Monday spells walking for me, Seonaid. I remember those days when it meant work (though growing distant now 🙂 ) Thanks for joining me- I know life’s busy for you.

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  15. Enjoy this walk with you thoroughly. 😀 Many thanks for having us and for the little drummer boy story. Wishing a great week ahead!

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  16. I think the Drummer Boy deserves more than just a stone; he deserves a statue. Your “look back” and the arch view of a cemetery adjoined to St Agatha’s Church are my favourites, and you know how much I like frescoes. A wonderful post, Jo! I’ll be back with my offering in a bit.

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    1. Thanks, Sue 🙂 I’ve done this walk with Mick and with the walkers but you can also drive to the Abbey (forgot to say in the post). I think you would find the church fascinating. There’s much that I cannot include in the post. Have a good week!

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      1. Thanks Jo, you have a great week too! I was going to see if I could drive to the abbey, my walking is so limited these days…and the church with its frescoes sounds marvellous. 🙂

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