Jo’s Monday walk : Leeds Waterfront

The Trans Pennine Trail

The Trans Pennine Trail at Leeds

When National Express changed my itinerary, giving me a 3 hour stopover in Leeds on my way home from Nottingham, they did me a big favour.  They gave me just enough time to explore Leeds Waterfront.  I’d done a tiny bit of research so I knew there was plenty to see.  I hope you like looking at canal boats and reflections?  There are rather a lot of them here.

I grabbed a sandwich as I whistled through the bus station, turned right at the doors, crossed over the road, and there I was, practically on the canal bank.  The weather forecast had predicted rain and the coach had passed through some heavy showers, but my luck was in.  Starved, because I hadn’t eaten breakfast, I found myself a seat by Clarence Dock and plonked myself down for 10 minutes, to munch and look at these beauties.

I'm never alone with a canal boat or two

I’m never alone with a canal boat or two

My picnic view
Looking across to the Royal Armouries
I always like a ‘pop’ of colour
A sign or two
And a few reflections

I don’t know whether you’re familiar with the Royal Armouries museum?  It’s the kind of place where you can lose a day quite easily.  Have a browse at the website.  You might want to make time to come back.  No spare time for me that day.  I had much exploring to do.

A raft of offices, restaurants and apartments surround the dock.  I had tried to memorise a route along the towpath but I did what I always do, which is to follow my nose.  This usually results in a few false starts and some day I will have to invest in technology so I can summon up the genie in the iPhone.  If you look at the Leeds Waterfront map it shows you quite clearly which paths are ‘navigable’.  Meantime I blunder on!

Time to leave Clarence Dock

Time to leave Clarence Dock

And another ‘pop’ of colour
And head past the lock to Knight’s Way Bridge
Isn’t that a lovely name for a bridge?
Pausing to watch the dredger negotiate the lock
And looking upstream to Crown Point Bridge
Looking back at the Royal Armouries museum

Looking back towards Royal Armouries and the lock

I stayed on the left bank of the River Aire, stopping for a look at Crown Point Bridge.  Opened in 1842, this was a toll bridge until 1868.  The towpath takes you past Brewery Wharf to Centenary Bridge, built in 1992 to celebrate 100 years of Leeds acquiring city status.  The views across to The Calls make this one of the most attractive stretches of the waterfront.

Bridge detail

Bridge detail

Underneath Crown Point Bridge

Crown Point Bridge x 2

Approaching Centenary Bridge
Sculpture detail in Brewery Wharf
The Calls with St. Peter’s Church in the background
Centenary Bridge

At this point the towpath ceases for a short distance and you have to thread your way through Bridge End Apartments, where I found a delightful surprise.  The wooden bridge was under repair but, lying in the water beneath, bright jewels clustered on the lily pads.

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More by luck than skill, I found myself at Leeds Bridge.  Dating back to the 14th century, this bridge, originally made from stone, was for 500 years the main crossing point on the river.  The medieval bridge was demolished in 1871, when it could no longer cope with the volume of traffic, and the existing cast iron bridge was constructed by 1873.  A distinctive looking bridge, it was the setting for the world’s first moving pictures.  In 1888, Louis Le Prince filmed horse-drawn traffic on the bridge, showing it in his nearby workplace, which became the world’s first cinema.

Intricate ironwork
Leeds Bridge
The crest. Did somebody mention owls?

Crossing over Leeds Bridge, the path then hugs the backs of stylish hotels around to Victoria Bridge.  The site of a ferry crossing and then a wooden footbridge washed away by floods, the Victoria Bridge was carved from local stone and completed in 1839, soon after the coronation of Queen Victoria.  Just beyond this point the River Aire meets the Leeds and Liverpool canal at Granary Wharf, loftily overlooked by the railway.

Victoria Bridge

Victoria Bridge

New footbridge into Granary Wharf
Sam’s boat!
Dazzling reflections on life
The boat cafe

The canal continues out of the city and into the countryside, but I had run out of time to follow it any further.  There are 127 miles of the Leeds and Liverpool canal- enough walking even for me! I would have liked to explore Holbeck Urban Village with its iconic Italianate towers, but it was time to turn back.  I looped round into Water Lane and headed back up Neville Street, curious to see the light installation under the railway bridge.

Passing south of Trinity Church and the impressive looking shopping plaza, I chanced upon the Corn Exchange.  Anyone remember Donovan? Apparently he strummed along here before he was famous.  A striking mural caught my eye, then I was back at Kirkgate and the Leeds City Market. It’s a regular stop off for me if I’m passing through the city.  Both the food stalls and the architecture are unbeatable.  A friendly local informed me that I should come along on Halloween, when they open the top gallery for a ‘Spooky walk’.  Sounds like fun?

The canal path, leading out of town
The canal network, West Leeds
Sound and Light in Neville Street
The main entrance to the markets
Did you ever see a better mural?

I hope I haven’t worn you out too much this week, but it’s been interesting, hasn’t it?  To join in my Monday walks click on the logo below and it will give you the details.  I’ve got the kettle on for what comes next- a visit to some wonderful friends.  Please do join me.

walking logo

Cardinal has a very individual style.  Let’s accompany him to Jerusalem  :

Jerusalem 9930

Violet Sky joins us again this week for a walk in the park  :

A walk in the park

Amy’s photography is an absolute joy  :

Where have all the flowers gone?

I really must visit Liverpool soon.  Drake’s colours sing!  :

Seeking out the colours

Meet Shan and her lovely family and go apple picking  :

Coffee and Conversation

And a huge welcome to Tish Farrell!  Her evocative writing style and photos makes me want to head for Wales right now  :

Now that Summer’s done, we take the Dol Idris path

Come and get a bit damp on the prom with me and Jude!  :

Reculver Towers and Roman Fort

And speaking of proms, how does New Zealand grab you?  Jill is very persuasive  :

Wellington on a good day

And just ‘up the road’, Rosemay takes us for a jaunt on the Perth coast  :

A walk with Winston

Staying ‘down under’, Pauline invites us for a beach walk.  It reminds me of Christine.  Where does the time go?

Beach walk

And lastly. our lovely Yvette is taking us to a ‘beautiful river’  :

Beautiful waterfront- Buffalo NY

Many thanks to you all for your company and warm support.  Happy walking!

150 comments

  1. Obviously I must get back to Leeds. I don’t remember anything as exciting as this. I do remember a market and trying a bacon buttie for the first time….this is going back more than 30 years, you understand!

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  5. I once knew the Leeds City Markets very well, and the city centre, but I never ventured along by the river or canal. How things change, those city apartments look great! Thanks for a different walk Jo and as usual you find such interesting objects to photograph and facts to accompany them. And I HAD to look up that city coat of arms with the owls 😉
    http://www.leedsowltrail.com/coat-of-arms/

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    1. Cheers for that! I had to Google the strange sculpture in Brewery Wharf for Bespoke Traveller. All work, isn’t it? 🙂 🙂 I’m off to the bath. No wine tonight- just my book.

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      1. I also looked that up as it does look very interesting too! That’s one aspect of blogging I love – finding out about new things. Enjoy your soak, don’t drop the book 😉

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      4. A rainy day trip then? I looked back at the map and surmised that was what you meant. The only bit I know by name is Kirkgate (and now the bits round the canal). There’s always a Christmas shopping coach (ouch, don’t mention that word!) to Leeds from here. I don’t have anything organised after the Algarve. Will you be in Sydney for Christmas? Nice!!!) 🙂

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    1. That’s a very good question! The whole sculpture was rather strange and I took the close up detail because I didn’t much like the shot I took of the whole thing. If you go to the Leeds Waterfront link there is a small photo of it on there and you might get a better idea? 🙂

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  12. What a lovely walk! You capture the beauty in every place you visit.

    I love narrow boats. When we lived in England we rented one and travelled a few of the canals through Warwickshire. It was a wonderful holiday.

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    1. Thank you! 🙂 What a nice thing to say! It’s amazing just how much beauty there is around if we just look, isn’t it? I always wanted a canal holiday but have never managed one yet. (hint to husband 🙂 )

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    1. I was surprised, Colline, because the forecast was terrible and there was a lot of cloud about. I had to strip off at one point when it got really warm! Just made it back on the coach when the heavens opened. 🙂

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    1. Thanks a lot, Sue 🙂 Yes, I enjoyed myself. Harmless pleasure 🙂 Are you recovered from the trip? Plotting the next one? You can live on dreams and memories for the first day or two and then reality (and the laundry!) kicks in 🙂

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  17. Dear Jo,
    it’s raining here as well.
    Thanks a lot for your introduction into Leeds. We always pass it by going up north but never ever stopped there. That will change the next time.
    Have an easy trip 🙂
    The Fab Four of Cley

    🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

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  18. I have family living in Leeds but have yet to visit them there, although we did visit many years ago before they moved there. I have to admit, I didn’t know about the waterfront but what a lovely place to walk around. I love canal boats and enjoyed reading the history of Leeds Bridge. You do find the best spots to stop and take photos Jo. Another wonderful walk, thank you. Hope you have a great week and see you soon 🙂

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    1. My son James is working in Leeds, Sherri, and I had hoped to buy him lunch, but he only has half hour break so I found a way to amuse myself. 🙂 I thoroughly enjoyed it and will make for that cafe boat next time. Thanks, darlin’. Have a good week too!

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